Analyzing Woke Brand Commercials

The sheer ubiquity of advertisements and our subsequent skill at consciously tuning them out have led companies to strange new kinds of ads. When even sex no longer sells, perhaps weirdness will, they apparently thought, and so we saw a scourge of truly strange ads in the 2000s. The goal seemed to be to attract viewers attention by breaking the formula of advertisement, to make them entertaining – advertainment, it is sometimes called. But the strategy quickly caught on, and with everyone doing it, no particular ad stood out anymore. Two relatively recent phenomena have tried to fill that void in advertising that I have seen, both of which employ a similar idea. The first is the Cool Brand Twitter ploy, pioneered by Wendy’s; the second is the Woke Brand Commercials, inadvertently kicked off by Keurig. 

Cool Brand Twitter seeks to make companies relatable and friendly, and above all cool. Multi-billion dollar corporations don’t want to be seen as evil or, worse, out of touch, so they create memes and respond to each other and random people on Twitter. Like teenage boys with their hair, they work meticulously to give the appearance of nonchalance and cool. But now every company seems to be in on the idea, and most are decidedly not savvy in their use of it, so the effect is diminished (in my experience at least), just like with traditional ads. 

The second new advertising phenomenon is the Woke Brand Commercials. Keurig seems to have started this trend by accident. When it announced it would pull its ads from Sean Hannity’s show following his support of Roy Moore, many fans of Hannity’s show took to destroying their Keurigs in retaliation, while many opponents of Moore praised Keurig. It initially seemed mostly like bad publicity – but it was still huge, free publicity. The content of their “stand” wasn’t what mattered; the controversy it started did. This would become a theme of the Woke Brand Commercial. 

As far as I can tell, Nike is the first company to deliberately follow Keurig’s tentative lead. The commercial itself is utterly inoffensive. A voice-over tells us to dream big while a montage of athletes plays in the background, including Lebron James and Serena Williams. The commercial is notable for recognizing and championing black excellence, but would have been fairly run-of-the-mill were it not for the voice of the ad, Colin Kaepernick, who also appears twice in the ad. In a country where acknowledgment of the injustice of police brutality amounts to a political statement, Kaepernick’s presence was taken as a tacit approval of his activism, and a slight Nike would have to pay for. #Burnyournikes, where people filmed themselves burning their sometimes brand new shoes, trended on Twitter for a few days. Nike’s stock rose by $6 Billion. Again, the content of the ad was besides the point for Nike: what mattered was the controversy. No one could escape news and social media, even if they could tune out ads. Starting a “conversation” was free advertising, and good press for featuring Kaepernick couldn’t hurt a company notorious for exploitative labor practices. 

The most notable example of the Woke Brand Commercial – or, sorry, “Short Film,” as it’s listed on Youtube – was Gillette’s. Again, not much of substance was said, but what was said seemed innocuous. At times it’s even clever. Early in the ad – short film, I’ll get it next time – we see an old Gillette ad, with the slogan “The Best a Man Can Get,” on a screen which several young men jump through, symbolically overcoming the old attitude. Now they aim for “The Best Men Can Be”; the commercial tackles sexism and harassment, harmful attitudes towards young boys (“boys will be boys”) and holding other men accountable. Pretty standard stuff, one might think. The vitriolic response by many makes one wonder why sexism is a political issue, and who’s masculinity is truly fragile. An unusual omission, which is true of the Nike commercial as well, is the actual product for sale. The Woke Brand Commercial wants to be taken seriously as art, considered on the merits of its ideas – and if you happen to tweet about their product later, no harm done. 

This, then, is a strange type of text, one which will be totally misunderstood if analyzed on its own terms. Only a meta-textual reading will understand the actual goal of the work (advertisement through generating controversy), for two reasons: first, as mentioned above, the product for sale is never mentioned, and second, the controversy is created not by what is said, but what it implies in the context of America today. Colin Kaepernick is a stand-in for issues of race, patriotism, the question “what does it mean to be an American?”; Gillette’s ad similarly asks one to consider “what is it to be a man?” They represent a related constellation of beliefs which even alluding to is divisive, part of what Fox News calls the “culture wars.” 

I hardly need to mention that these ads, nice as they may seem to many of us, are not indicative or any real progressivism or change. Nike still uses child labor and sweatshops, and Gillette’s owners Proctor and Gamble, and Keurig have been repeatedly implicated in environmental and human rights abuses. These problems are not endemic to these companies, but we cannot pretend that the calculated business choice to produce a “controversial” ad amounts to moral decency. These commercials are not expressions of conviction or principle; they are business decisions like any others. They are a solution to a marketing problem, fickle as any other strategy. And when they stop being profitable, they’ll stop altogether.


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Album Review: Hollywood Park

The Airborne Toxic Event, a band named after a chapter from the novel White Noise, recently released their 6th album. The lead singer and founder of the band, Mikel Jollett, concurrently released his memoir, also titled “Hollywood Park.” Jollett was born in one of the most infamous American cults, Church of Synanon, and managed to escape with his mother and brother. Both the book and the album retell pieces of his difficult story and eventual life in the world of music. The album itself goes through a whirlwind of emotions, from intensity and joy to dramatic and painful songs; Jollett strives to capture the emotions of different moments of his life. 

The first song of the album, Hollywood Park, focuses on an escape and the tragic loss of home, despite its upbeat and rock nature (with a mix of bagpipes.) With the drums beating throughout the song and a guitar solo, it’s a song you’d imagine people nodding their heads with, and you almost don’t notice the somber and desperate lyrics, unless you’re to the words carefully. 

Brother, How Was the War diverges from Hollywood Park completely. Melancholy and nostalgic, the song recalls the turmoil of the Vietnam war from the perspective of a loved one at home. The second half of the song takes a turn with the addition of heavy guitar, adding to the tense undertones. Brother, How Was the War gives another glimpse at a possible moment from Jollett’s life.  

The Common Touch has simple, light guitar in the background accompanied by the story of a young person trying to find the answer to how to get through life. Though the accompaniment is light, the lyrics challenge what seem to be the only available methods for someone to get through a hard life if they have said “common touch.” Jollett belts out “I swear I don’t feel a goddamn thing” describing his numbness to life. 

The full album is worth the listen, even if it's not your genre, simply for the lyrics. Jollett, both a writer and musician with an intense life story, creates lyrics of poetry, leading to the album being words accompanied by complimentary music rather than the other way around. While the specifics of his stories may not always be relatable, the general emotions throughout the album are.  

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(The Politics of) Movies About Teens Killing Each Other

You know, that genre?

The formative influence is William Golding’s Lord of the Flies and the 1963 film adaptation, and  canonical examples are The Hunger Games and Battle Royale, while more fringe examples might include the first few episodes of the Netflix show The 100 and various YA books (many of which have been turned into films) such as Maze Runner

Lord of the Flies was written in 1954, and deeply informed by the destruction of the second World War. Is this the fundamental nature of humanity? the book asks, with a mind to a young audience freshly equipped with the word “allegory.” A group of British schoolboys (because if the English could be taken to barbarity, anyone could) are stranded on an island when their plane crashes, and they must govern themselves until help arrives. Two older boys, Jack and Ralph, take command: “if we’re sensible, if we do things properly, if we don’t lose our head, we’ll be alright,” Ralph tells the other boys at the beginning. “After all,” Jack adds, “we’re English, not savages!”

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They pretty quickly lose touch with their initially civilized self-governance, as Jack plays on their fear of the “Beastie,” and eventually forms a new tribe. Even the conch, the symbol of civilization, loses its power. He and his boys, who eventually recruit all but Ralph and Piggy, Ralph’s intelligent and tormented second-in-command, cover themselves in paint and perform strange rituals in front of the fire, before killing Simon and later Piggy. Totally atavistic. 

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The key difference is that the situation in Lord of the Flies – being stranded – is not contrived by their society. It can thus purport to be a representation of “man in his natural state”; hence why the term Hobbesian is thrown around so often. Not so for the later films, all of which feature a deliberate set-up for the killing. Hunger Games and Battle Royale indict the systems which created these children, not their inherent features. Lord of the Flies, thus, isn’t truly a film about teens killing each other, since they don’t have the explicit goal of actually killing each other, like in Hunger Games and Battle Royale

Hunger Games doesn’t need much introduction. In a dystopian society two competitors from each of the 12 districts are chosen to fight to the death in a televised spectacle, from which only one can survive. The film is often spoken of as, like Lord of the Flies, an allegory, in this case for the unfair conditions of our “meritocracy” and capitalism. In neither film is subtlety counted as a virtue. In one particularly ripe exchange, Haymitch, the tutor to our protagonists Katniss and Peeta, explains “careers” to them: children from the richer districts who have been trained from birth for the Games. Effie, another advisor to the District 12 kids, assures our heroes that, as a matter of fact, “they don’t receive any special treatment. In fact, they stay in the exact same apartment as you do. And I don’t think they let them have dessert.” 

An inspired decision was the inclusion of sponsors. The competitors have two weeks to prepare for the Games, and in that time they have several media appearances to win the support of the public and “sponsors,” who can send helpful items like medicine to you in the arena. This forces the contestants to be likeable to people they hate, to play their game how they intend it to be played, to be “good poors.” Only Katniss is able to find a way to escape their rules, briefly, but even then she only manages to game the system by putting on a show for the cameras. Until then the system they live in is inevitable; all everyone can do is live within it, whether by embracing it like Effie or by small acts of rebellion through kindness like Cinna.

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If the characters in Lord of the Flies are almost purely allegorical – a fact which the movie downplays somewhat – at least in Hunger Games they are allowed to resemble human beings. But the film undermines the empathy we feel for them with poor choices in direction and by failing to build meaningful relationships between the characters. Director Gary Ross shoots even simple dialogue like the most nauseating scenes in The Blair Witch Project, and action is edited in the same way as slower moments: when everything is intense, nothing is. These failures coalesce in the death of Rue, where we see that Katniss cares but don’t particularly know why (they get all of three scenes together) and, as the camera flips wildly between the two as Katniss holds a dying Rue in her arms, we end up feeling more disoriented than sad. 

Why teens? This question hovered over me the whole time I was watching these films, and I haven’t been able to come up with a good answer yet. Other than Mel Gibson’s Mad Max, I can’t think of any battle royale-type movies starring and targeting adults (although I think it’s fair to say Mad Max’s demographic skews male and younger). One suggestion is all the fighting is kind of like high school, or somehow a representation of cutthroat teenage social dynamics. And while I don’t remember high school as particularly Thunderdomey, there is something to be said for the idea that these movies are just like any other teen movie, but with the melodrama turned way up. The plethora of YA novels left in the wake of Hunger Games also suggests that the genre (loosely defined) speaks to the desire to feel special and important, and even a little victimized. 

Battle Royale is political only insofar as human relationships are. There is no outside world depicted in it, no larger political struggle at work, like in Hunger Games. All we know is that some economic collapse happened and youth delinquency skyrocketed, so the government created a law which randomly selects one class of ninth graders each year to participate in a battle royale. But this is no world-halting spectacle: there are no cameras on the island, and the kids didn’t even know of the event until they were chosen. The violence is senseless, both for them and the audience. They have no two week period to come to terms with their fate, no public selection process where they can say goodbye to their friends and family. 

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We find them on a bus, thinking they are headed to a school field trip, until they are knocked out and wake up in a classroom on a deserted island. Their old teacher, Kitano, surrounded by military guards, shows them an instructional video which tells them they will be given a pack with a random weapon (ranging from guns to a pot lid) and a necklace which tracks their movement and explodes when they stray too far or try to take it off. They are told if one person does not emerge after three days, all remaining will die. And it is here that we realize Battle Royale will not play by the polite rules of Lord of the Flies or Hunger Games.

Before the event even starts – during the presumed safety of the instructional video no less – Kitano kills one of the girls for talking. The best friend of the protagonist then has his necklace blown up, killing him as well. Before he dies, his necklace beeps menacingly, and he stumbles around the classroom looking for help; but the friendships are already over, and he’s pushed away by his classmates. He makes the protagonist, Nanahara, promise to protect Noriko, who the now dead friend had a crush on.

They are sent out one by one onto the island along with two dangerous-seeming outsiders (victors from previous years). Battle Royale then tells a series of vignettes, miniature tragedies and bleak comedies – stories of friendships tested by suspicion and paranoia, and forged through sympathy, of grisly deaths and an improbable number of gunshots survived – mainly following Nanahara and Noriko. These vignettes are masterpieces of condensed storytelling. In one, Nanahara is injured, but luckily gets rescued by five girls living in the island’s lighthouse. A shy girl, who doesn’t like the idea of a boy living with them, intends to poison Nanahara at lunch, but her friend grabs his meal instead and dies while they all watch. The suspicion over who killed her quickly destroys their idyll and they kill each other in a gun fight while old school rivalries and petty grudges are dug up. 

The film has a reputation for nihilism, which isn’t quite deserved. Ultimately, it is the love and trust between Nanahara and Noriko, and the friendship they come to feel for Kawada, one of the previous winners, that allows them all to escape. Nonetheless, it is true that those quickest to trust are the first to go: in a cruel world cruelty is rewarded. This says at least as much about the adults who created this world as it does the kids who inhabit it, however. The film suggests that asking whether the ability to kill was inside them all along is asking the wrong question. “There are some things you’re better off not knowing,” Kawada says. 

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Towards the end of the movie only Nanahara, Noriko and Kawada remain, and Kawada has found a way to trick the government into thinking the other two are dead. Their old teacher Kitano figures this out, and stays behind on the island to confront them. When they meet him in the old government headquarters, he aims his gun at Noriko and tells her to shoot him before he shoots her. Noriko and Nanahara have thus far escaped relatively innocent: they have managed to avoid killing anyone. We now understand why Kitano is doing this. He needs Noriko, who he has always had a soft spot for, to understand him, to feel what he has felt and live with the consequences like he has.

Maybe this is the only messed up way he knows how. Nanahara eventually fires at him, but doesn’t kill him. The teacher pulls the trigger, causing both Nanahara and Noriko to shoot at him, finally causing fatal damage. Kitano was holding a water gun. Nanahara, at least, has found meaning in all this: he has fulfilled his promise to protect Noriko.

Perhaps this test showed him what he was truly capable of, good and bad.

Perhaps he would’ve been better off not knowing. 

Album Review: The 1975's Notes On A Conditional Form

We are right now in the beginning of a climate and ecological crisis

And  we need to call it what it is

An  emergency

These are the first lyrics in the 1975’s intro track on their new album, Notes on a Conditional Form, spoken by climate activist Greta Thunberg. The shift from this mindful and inspiring speech with an instrumental background to the punk, screamo-esque lead single ‘People’ is revolutionary. This contrast says more about our society and political climate than most modern media does, introducing the most intense head-banging and shrieking song The 1975 has ever produced. The beginning feels reminiscent of a 2000s film, feeling a cool as hell yet misunderstood vibe. Then, in a literal wake-up call, Matty Healy yells “Wake up! Wake up! Wake up!” into your ear with the intensity of a punk-rock singer, leading the song into a frenzy that soon becomes the antithesis of the first track, pouring out every bit of teen angst and misunderstanding into a cry for change and revolution. 

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The rest of the album takes you on a frenzy of experimental sounds and varieties of influences from low-fi beats you can study to, in “Yeah I Know”, to the dancing pop beats of “If You’re Too Shy (Let Me Know)” which resonates completely with old The 1975 music. With beautiful backing vocals from FKA Twigs, this track mixes the classic pop-rock sound of The 1975 with an awesome saxophone solo and a catchy hook. Other featured artists include the wonderfully calming voice of Phoebe Bridgers in “Jesus Christ 2005 God Bless America”, one of the most vulnerable 1975 songs, which gives off an existential, intimate harmony with stripped back vocals. The irony with this song can be sensed in the fact that Matty Healy is a self-proclaimed raging atheist. Stating that this song is a Healy’s struggle between wanting to belong to a faith and striving for salvation, and his abiding atheism. 

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I had the luck to experience this band live for the first time in my life last December at the Aragon Ballroom in Chicago and one of the songs that stood out to me the most was “Frail State of Mind”. Little did I, or even the band themselves, know how culturally defining the opening lyrics to this song would become in a few months, stating “Go outside?

Seems unlikely.” This statement screams social isolation even though it was written before the pandemic we are facing had even begun. It seems like this song is a shifting point in the album, although it is only the fourth song out of twenty-two bangers, the created sense of isolation and uncertainty continues to grow throughout the record. 

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The album finally comes to an end with their last single before the release of the record, “Guys”,  the nostalgic and sentimental love song about best friends. In an interview for Apple Music, Healy states that “There’s not many love songs about some of the most beautiful, powerful relationships in your life,” that is, the relationship with your best friends. This song provides a wonderfully soft and pure romantic yet platonic reflection and end to a genre-bending experimental album that ultimately focuses on the current moment.

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Ladies Night: The Best Female Collabs

 

Through the disease, disaster, and scandal cocktail that is 2020, the brightest silver lining has been the onslaught of phenomenal women teaming up and storming the charts. Especially exciting was the history made in May, with four black women occupying Billboard’s top two spots for the first time.

Contrary to what Lana Del Rey might think, women have been singing about taboo topics since the dawn of American popular music in the form of jazz in the 1920’s (see: Bessie Smith, Billie Holiday, etc.). They’ve been scorned and slandered for their expression long before Ms. Del Rey was a twinkle in the industry’s eye. In genres from soul to rap, women have utilized the medium of music to reflect on their femininity, sex, and complicated relationships. And for a heaping dose of f-you, sometimes they bring their friends. Here are some of my favorite female collaborations, pre-2012:

No More Tears (Enough Is Enough) - Donna Summer & Barbra Streisand (1979)

If you like disco, this is perhaps the apex of musical achievement. If you think you don’t like disco but you like pop, you should at the very least appreciate this song—modern pop derives much of its energy from disco, as well as its fusion of bombastic instrumentals with techno sounds. Donna Summer and Barbra Streisand on the same track is nothing short of legendary, as they set the stage for all the pop girls that followed. The late 70’s had a breadth of genres flourishing, while subsequent decades saw mass trend consolidation on the charts. Popstar collaborations like this became scarce until the 90’s.

Whatta Man - Salt-N-Pepa & En Vogue (1993)

The success of En Vogue’s first album in 1992 kicked off the black female vocal group genre in the 90’s (see: Destiny’s Child, Blaque, SWV, Xscape, Total, 702) and they remain one of the world’s best selling girl groups. Teaming up with the premier female rappers of their day may seem like a natural move for stars today, but Whatta Man was one of the first of its kind. The song set the standard for rap songs featuring an R&B/pop star on the chorus, à la Eve and Gwen Stefani’s Let Me Blow Ya Mind or Cardi B and SZA’s I Do. So whenever Beyoncé teams up with Nicki or Meg for a superstar collab, you know who to thank.

Not Tonight (Ladies Night Remix) - Lil’ Kim, Lisa “Left Eye” Lopes, Da Brat, Angie Martinez, and Missy Elliott (1996)

This is verifiably the biggest and best female posse cut. In a desert starved of big rap collaborations between women, Ladies Night was the oasis. Five (5!) female rappers disrupted the Death Row/Bad Boy Records monopoly on collab tracks. Lil’ Kim was finally able to stop being that one woman rapper in the Junior M.A.F.I.A. crew and lead one of her own. It also had the most celeb-stacked video this side of Bad Blood, featuring a ton of the previously mentioned 90’s vocal groups, Queen Latifah, T-Boz, and Mary J. Blige.

When You Believe - Whitney Houston & Mariah Carey (1998)

The Definitive Diva Duet. An unbelievable match up of vocal titans. Whether you think this track from the Prince of Egypt soundtrack is transcendent or pure sap, the power of two of the world’s most esteemed vocalists at the height of their respective careers is undeniable.

I Used To Love Him - Lauryn Hill & Mary J. Blige (1998)

The pain of these two women has created more timeless classics than almost any other artists. The Miseducation of Lauryn Hill is an all around near perfect album, and this is one of the most touching falling-out-of-love songs. Raw, metaphorical, and beautifully harmonized, it’s essential listening for anyone bleeding out the poison of heartbreak.

The Boy Is Mine - Brandy & Monica (1998)

The greatest musical catfight of all time. While our 2020 sensibilities scoff at pitting women against each other over a man, Brandy and Monica did it in a positively irresistible way. This song is filled to the brim with battling vocal runs that elevated the standard for the vocal quality of “teen” music.

Same Script, Different Cast - Whitney Houston & Deborah Cox (2000)

Essentially the big girl version of The Boy Is Mine, this track features Whitney as the scorned woman and Deborah as her man’s new girl. Whitney warns Deborah that the man is a scrub, Deborah is blinded by love, rinse and repeat. It’s severely underrated given the amazing vocals and depth of the material, particularly notable to me for how it reads as a Broadway musical-esque verbal battle between the two.

Lady Marmalade - Lil’ Kim, Christina Aguilera, P!nk, and Mya (2001)

The most predictable song on a list of this kind, this lineup is the only way a Patti Labelle track should ever dare to be touched. Made for the Moulin Rouge soundtrack, the video was all bombastic production and burlesque aesthetics, featuring opulence and glamour and garter belts galore. It also made Lil’ Kim the first female rapper to reach #1 on the Billboard Hot 100. 13 years later, Bang Bang used the same key ingredients for success—the Loud, Soulful One (Christina/P!nk v. Jessie J), The Reigning Queen of Rap (Lil’ Kim v. Nicki Minaj), and the Sweet Soprano (Mya v. Ariana). Its mini-sequel Can’t Hold Us Down from Kim and Christina in 2002 was also a spectacular call out of gendered double standards.

VMA Tribute to Madonna - Britney Spears, Christina Aguilera, Missy Elliott, and Madonna (2003)

Fun fact: the audio from this performance is actually on Spotify! And rightfully so, as one of the most infamous performances in pop culture history. Former Mouseketeers Britney and Christina had already broken out of their virginal teen queen molds and told the world they, respectively, “weren’t that innocent” and “dirrty.” Honoring Madonna, they emulate the sexual girlishness of Like A Virgin, poking fun at their own images as media Lolitas in a scene mimicking Madonna’s own 1984 VMA debut. Miss Blond Ambition herself then comes out in a tuxedo to match, a reflection of her career-long exploration of gender and sex. Madonna French kisses the successors to her pop throne. The cameraman goes down in history as extremely ruthless by cutting to Britney’s ex-boyfriend, Justin Timberlake, immediately after she is kissed. Missy Elliott comes out and the world parties. Legendary.

Beautiful Liar - Beyoncé & Shakira (2006)

In the anti-The Boy Is Mine, Beyoncé, Shakira, and their supernatural hips join forces to vanquish a two-timer over the perfect storm of R&B/Latin/Middle Eastern inspired beats and instrumentation. Challenging the abundance of songs in the early 2000’s featuring scorned women getting revenge on cheaters (Hit ‘Em Up Style, Bust Your Windows, Before He Cheats), they decide to “go high” and move on, declaring “it's not worth the drama / for a beautiful liar.” The video’s dance break is also a feat of cinematic achievement:

Telephone - Lady Gaga & Beyoncé (2010)

Often (rightfully) acclaimed for the star vocals and pulpy video, the best part about Telephone was its musical positioning: it met the R&B inspired pop of the 00’s with the electronic pop that would dominate the 2010’s. Telephone was the Switzerland of pop ideology. But the power of the cinematic, campy video can’t be understated. It’s a fascinating ode to pop culture, complete with sex, murder, and product placements. What more can I say that the stuffed-to-the-brim video doesn’t already?

Bonus: Your Crowning Glory - Julie Andrews & Raven Symoné (2004)

From one of the greatest films ever made, The Princess Diaries 2: Royal Engagement, this duet crossed generations and genres to definitively become the number one most empowering song of all time.


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Album Review: Chromatica

If there is anything Lady Gaga has taught us it’s to never conform. At the start of the 2010s, she plunged pop culture into a new age with a form of flamboyance that was second to none. Her catchy hooks and punching production were nearly taken for granted until she left them behind for her pink cowboy hat and movie career. Joanne and A Star Is Born proved to give Gaga’s career a new wind following the lukewarm reception to 2013’s Artpop while also reinvigorating the hunger for her pop antics. 

When “Stupid Love” leaked in January 2020, it was being played at runway shows before Gaga even got the chance to acknowledge its premature release. The hard hitting, joyous plea for love was masterfully designed to be an earworm, and it signaled the return of pop-glory Gaga. It is hard to separate the song from the hype of Gaga’s return, but when we do, the lead single’s lyricism leaves room for improvement, as the charm and tactfulness of previous efforts is missing (lest we ignore that “Stupid Love” sounds like a bad google translation of “Bad Romance”). Unknown to us at the time, the infectious but simultaneously underwhelming track would a faithful first taste to the record.

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Once Chromatica was put back on course following its delay due to COVID-19, the next taste of Chromatica was one of pop’s most exciting collaborations since Gaga teamed up with Beyonce in 2011. The common denominator, Gaga, proves to hold her own on “Rain On Me” with her theatrical vocals that compliment Ariana’s more delicate contributions. The empowering anthem is fits perfectly with the carefree atmosphere that Ariana tried to emulate for 2018’s Sweetener. While the contrast between their vocals is neat, there is a sense that Ariana’s vocals are better suited for the production, whereas Gaga’s boldness seems to be seeking a bigger oomph. Rather than continuing with 80’s synth pop from “Stupid Love”, this second single introduced the most common influence of the forthcoming album—house music. 

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In an interesting fake-out, the album opens up with the first of three orchestral interludes. It is a stunning cinematic entrance into the world of Chromatica. The first official track, “Alice” is a fantastic 90’s banger and one of the best uses of said house influence. “Can you pull me out of this alive?” Gaga asks, the ambiguity of whether she is asking her lover or herself becomes a prominent theme of the record. Similar to “Rain on Me”s bridge, Gaga’s increasing use of talk-singing is prominent in the second verse and a good set up for the prevalence of this vocal technique. The two singles that follow set up the fast pace of the record, and without looking to carefully into the lyrics, the first half of the record is some of the best pop music in recent years.

However, Chromatica’s lack of ingenuity becomes most apparent during the back to back “Free Woman” and “Fun Tonight”. Both prove to be fine, mid-tempo house tracks, but neither go anywhere particularly exciting in the context of a Lady Gaga record. Gaga’s lyricism, “ I'm still something if I don't got a man” or “I'm not havin' fun tonight”, continues to pail in comparison to some of her best work, but there is a new sense of vulnerability and self-awareness that is admirable.

Luckily things begin to look up with the second interlude and tracks like “911” and “Paper Doll”. While the latter is not a career highlight, it holds its own among the best tracks of this album. The smooth transition between “Chromatica II” and “911” has rightfully gone viral on Twitter. The song’s robotic tonality and funky verses make it feel like it could belong on The Fame in the best way possible, and it proves that Gaga shines the more she leaves the standard pop bubble, perhaps that she built. “My biggest enemy is me” she repeats, and although it is as simplistic as the rest of the album, it’s one of the most impactful lyrical highlights of the album.

The highly anticipated collaboration with K-pop group BLACKPINK lands similarly to “Rain On Me” insofar as Gaga is able to create a pleasant contrast with her collaborators. BLACKPINK sound incredibly smooth and seductive on the verses.The lyrics are heavy on the candy metaphor (“Come come unwrap me”), but by this point in the record there is little need to wish for a lyrical masterpiece.

“Enigma”, like “Alice”, proves to be a more interesting incorporation of the house genre and keeps up the spirit of the record. The stabbing keyboard, sax, and Gaga’s soaring voice during the chorus are a perfect combo. It is clear that her voice has never sounded better. “Replay” is also another highlight, again hitting the best beats of house and vaporwave genres. Gaga’s voice fluctuates beautifully between her nasally register during the bridge and her theatrical vocals of the chorus.

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The final interlude is once again an intriguing break from the anthems. “Sine From Above” continues the momentum that built during the second act of the record. Elton John’s contribution does mix as well as the other collaborations of the record, but he does no harm. The 2013-beat drop is euphoric, but it already feels dated. The lyrics are some of the more intriguing the record has to offer, and the theme of music’s saving grace is clear and beautifully stated. By the tail end of the song, Gaga begins to experiment more with an enigmatic outro that leads into “1000 Doves”. Like some other tracks on the album, this one does no harm but also leads us nowhere new or exciting. 

Finally, in what may be one of Lady Gaga’s most standout tracks in years, “Babylon” ends the record on a high, joyous note. It is hard to look not notice the nod to Madonna’s “Vogue” (and that may be the point), but Gaga’s monotone delivery accented by a grand chorus, another smooth sax, and the record’s most energetic and creative lyrics lead to house-perfection. It makes you wonder where this type of eccentric songwriting and production was not given to Chromatica’s weakest links. 

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The toughest part of Chromatica is that it is clearly a foundation for Gaga’s best record. It is a fantastic 90’s throwback record, with clean and crisp production. Her vocals have never sounded more powerful, and there is no doubt that she had a vision and stuck with it. However, there is still a sense that the music can go farther. This may be due to a lack of Gaga’s own hands in the mix. While she is credited as a co-producer on nearly every track on both Born This Way, Artpop, and Joanne, Gaga is oddly missing from every track on this record outside of the interludes. The lows of the album lack the progression, or at least daring wackiness, of Gaga’s previous efforts. The album cover and visuals for the era have Gaga deep into the world of Chromatica—a visual sci-fi heaven—but the music itself feels very much like it is set in 90’s New York. Nevertheless, Gaga is right that she has fought for her dance floor, and her return to it is nothing but good news for pop music.

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Designers on Call: Beyoncé's Stage Wardrobe

Who can say that they can call up Balmain at any point for an outfit? Beyoncé of course.

Being that the outlook for any big concerts occurring this year is dim, I thought it’d be a good time to look back at some of one of touring’s largest powerhouses—Beyoncé. Her last solo tour alone grossed over $250 million dollars, and while the current pandemic halted any announcement, it was speculated that a new solo tour was imminent.

Each new Beyoncé tour and performance brings with it a collection of various top tier designer outfits. Long gone are the days that Beyoncé’s mother and uncle would have to make her tour wardrobe. Instead, all she and her costume designers have to say to designers is “give us what you’ve got.”

Here are some of Queen B’s most show-stopping outfits:

Images via here and here

Images via here and here

For her 2018 Coachella performance, Beyoncé called on Balmain to design her performance outfits, along with those for the 200+ dancers. Being a notorious perfectionist, Beyoncé detailed in her Homecoming documentary that every color, thread, and jewel was hand picked by her. The sketches released for the outfits are no doubt no the first iterations of the designs, but even so Beyoncé ended up changing the final, camo set for a more standard leotard look.

Beyoncé’s constant choreography often results in her costume designer and team having to alter the tour outfits to increase mobility and decrease the possibility of a Janet Jackson level of wardrobe malfunction. Even with all the attention to detail put into ever outfit, the the previously mentioned camo look from Coachella caused Beyoncé some problems, as she was seen constantly having to hold up the bust of the leotard.

On that note of risque, Beyoncé’s “nipple costume” received a lot of press during her Mrs. Carter World Tour. Designed by New York based The Blonds, the golden shimmering piece compliments Beyoncé’s most sensual songs perfectly. It also alludes back to Madonna’s infamous Jean Paul Gaultier conical bra from her Blond Ambition Tour.

Images via here and here

Images via here and here

Aside from sensual, Beyoncé’s outfits are also heavily connected to her African heritage. This influence was the most present during her 2018 Global Citizens concert in Africa where she embodied the spirit of Africa across various outfit.

First stepping out in a beaded Mary Katrantzou piece, Beyoncé was flanked by long cape with Africa’s countries displayed on it. The beading on the body suit also made up different African regions. Other looks included a vibrant Versace body suit and hat, a feathery Balmain piece, and an emerald green piece by Ashi Studi.

For her On the Run II Tour with Jay Z, Beyoncé continued to partner with Balmain, Versace, but also called on new collaborations. Some notable pieces include her grand purple cape that became a staple of the tour. It is speculated that the golden outfit was going to be her 2018 Met Gala look, and it seems plausible given its Medieval metallic and papal purple.

Robero Cavalli made several appearances throughout the tour. A shimmering white ensemble was worn several times to open the show. It followed Beyoncé’s adoration for outfits that sparkle, as most of her outfits on the tour were drenched in Swarovski crystals. Cavalli also helped her become a true Queen Bee with a yellow and black piece that jiggled with her dancing.

For one of her most striking looks, Beyoncé sported a stunning silver Vivienne Westwood piece. Looking like a complete superhero, she dawned a long cape that flowed with the help of Beyoncé’s iconic fans. Worn during the part of the show where the stage floats above the crowd, the shinning suit remains one of her most eye catching pieces across any tour.

According to Mary Katrantzou, she did not know Beyoncé would actually end up wearing her piece until the moment Beyoncé stepped on stage with it on. Which begs to wonder—what stunning looks has she kept on the clothing rack? Leave it up to Beyoncé to have some of the most talented designers in the world on the edge of their seats.

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Get to Know the Photographer: Sophia Carino

Hello! I am Sophia, I am a 1st year premed student. I have been baking at least one cake or banana bread loaf every week since quarantine started.


Why (and when) did you become interested in photography?

I started off in eighth grade by taking action shots, candid photos, and group photos for my high school’s yearbook. Then I really got into portrait photography my junior year when I learned how to take senior portraits. I love portrait photography because I like to explore a composition that sustains a balance between the model and their surroundings. So much can be expressed through the human body and face.

Where do you find inspiration?

At first, I found inspiration through professional photographers on Instagram, Pinterest, and Youtube when I was first learning because I wanted to know how to do certain effects with the camera. But now that it has been a few years, I like to listen to music and look at album covers as inspiration for the type of feeling I want to convey in my photos.

What cameras/equipment do you like using?

My main camera is a Nikon D750 and my favorite lens is my Nikon 50mm f/1.8. This lens is best for portrait photography because it can capture a lot of depth and do that cool bokeh light effect. Also, I recently got a Minolta X-700 film camera and started learning how to shoot and develop film.

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What do you like to photograph?

I love photographing people mostly, but sometimes I also shoot street, urban, landscape and travel photography (although because of the pandemic I will not be doing the last one any time soon). Honestly, I want to try all types of photography when the opportunity presents itself. I still have a lot to learn!

What advice do you have for other photographers?

You do not need crazy camera equipment to begin shooting. Shooting photography is more about exploring the composition of a photo. Like in painting, where you decide what can be seen within the frame of your canvas, you decide what can be seen within the frame of your lens. Some of my favorite photos were from when I first started out and I did not have the equipment I have now. When you do decide to buy a camera for your photography, there are so many free online resources that can help you learn how to use it.

Netflix Shows for Culinary Enthusiasts

Spending time at home has inspired me to experiment with new recipes and enjoy more meals with family. On social media, food trends have surged in popularity. Some examples are the trendy Dalgona whipped coffee or more classic favourites such as banana bread or sourdough. I have always enjoyed food (who doesn’t). But, besides being consumed, food is created and shared. For some, food is a craft. For others, food means connecting with friends and family. Most importantly, though, food is fuel for all of us. These three shows on Netflix highlight the behind the scenes of food from the creation of food as art and culture to enjoyment of a dish.

1. Ugly Delicious

Ugly Delicious starring celebrity chef David Chang has become one of the most popular shows on Netflix. The title struck me at first because of its seeming oxymoron. How can delicious food be labelled as “ugly”? However, as I progressed through the episodes, it became apparent that “ugly” was meant to draw our attention to the taste of food rather than how it is prepared and where it is served. David Chang is notably known for his restaurants under the “Momofuku” restaurant groups and his collaboration with Christina Tossi on “Milk Bar.”

Each episode features a particular type of staple dish but with an examination of the meaning that people ascribe to it. In one of the episodes, he enters a conversation over whether “Domino’s Pizza” can be considered good pizza or if "tuna sashimi” can be an acceptable pizza topping. The episodes are intriguing as they prompt us to question basic assumptions about food in terms of authenticity, enjoyment, and innovation. Chang even travels to destinations such as Italy and China to taste local foods and interview chefs. Chang shows us that food doesn’t have to be 3-star Michelin to be delicious, but rather it is the fond memories and experiences that we associate with foods that make it satisfying.

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2. Street Food

Spending a part of my childhood in Southeast Asia, I developed a love for street food. Bowls of laksa, hainan chicken rice, and curry could be easily obtained at unpretentious venues known as Hawker venues. Understandably, my dad had a weak spot for street food, claiming that it was comforting in a way that high-end restaurants could not compare with. The Netflix series made me extremely nostalgic, and I would say that this is a testament its ability to incorporate storytelling with food. street food is enjoyed because it is so accessible, convenient, affordable, and tasty (of course).

Each episode is set in a different region and showcases some of the signature dishes while also showing a glimpse of daily lives on both sides of the interaction (those who make the food and those who consume the food). This series manages to draw out a major cultural element that is associated with food.

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3. Chef’s Table

This third show on the list is more focused on both the personal and professional lives of some of the most renowned chefs in the world. The route to a successful culinary career is paved with sacrifices and challenges from pressures from family life to the criticism faced by chefs who innovate and defy tradition. Watching this show revealed to me how chefs think about food. For some, art is expressed musically through sound. For chefs, art is expressed through a dish. Each dish is a work of art that they want to perfect and personalize to create a distinct flavour profile.

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Quarantine Skillshare: Arjun Kilaru’s Norm-Shifting, Logomania-Influenced Designs

Arjun Kilaru is a first-year probably majoring in some combination of economics, statistics, and sociology. He is involved with MODA Magazine and designed in the Winter 2020 Fashion Show and also produces for the UChicago Public Policy Podcasts. 

In the beginning of isolation, there was an incredible panic and shortage related to the distribution of masks. Now, as it has been mandated for people to wear masks while in public, increasingly more are teaching themselves to sew. Arjun Kilaru sits in a privileged place, amongst a family with a history of fashion design work, but advocates for learning how to sew by trial and error (he says that the seam ripper will be your best friend!). 

Arjun Kilaru chats with me about the inspiration behind his utilization of a mask in his MODA W’20 Collection, designing clothes for his girlfriend, and trends that originated on the runway that will hopefully be integrated into the mainstream. The conversation that follows has been edited for clarity and length. 


Ariana Garcia: When did you start designing and sewing?

Arjun Kilaru: So I first really started when I started [my collection] for the [MODA Fashion] Show. That was my first brush with it, but I knew a little bit before that because my mom used to make clothes as a designer and my grandma does too. It’s a really present thing in my family. So I kind of did the Show as a way to build that part of myself and I really learned a lot and I made something to be proud of.

Can you tell me more about the history of design in your family?

Yeah, so my grandma was a fashion designer and a tailor. She's been doing that for a super long time, from back when she was in India and Pakistan. My mom went to college for fashion design, which is what she did for her twenties before she came here. They both just have all this experience and gave me help and tips and showed me better ways to do things. The whole reason I [learned to sew and design] was to gain deeper connections with that aspect of my family that I hadn't really explored before. 

Bandeau Top Designed and Made By Arjun Kilaru, Modeled by @eshadkr

Bandeau Top Designed and Made By Arjun Kilaru, Modeled by @eshadkr

Have you noticed, from being taught by them, that there are specific habits that you have picked up?

They take a ton of measurements and to make it very specific for the person. I think that the clothes are more important than the person, which is one thing that we clash on. One reason why [they take a lot of measurements is because] they create formal wear, which is also why some of my pieces have a formal sense to them, like the collars and the dress.

Why do you think the clothes are more important than the person?

I've always made clothes for the purpose of them being shown at an exhibition. Whereas they make clothes to sell them to people and because people commission them, which is why they really focus on the person that they're making pieces for. I have never done it that way. But, I understand that [clothes are designed for different reasons]. 

Do you think that you usually tend to design towards either a person or towards a larger collection of work?

I usually make something to teach a technique to myself. [In terms of the two-piece set], I had never made a bikini top before and I wanted to learn by figuring it out through trial and error.


The best tool I have is not the [sewing]  machine, but the seam ripper. It takes apart the mistakes I made, so I can [go back and learn by redoing it]. This is important because I want to learn as many techniques as I can now so I can apply that to a collection later. Whenever I'm making something, the first thing I think is like, okay, what can I learn by making this?

Two-Piece Set Made During Quarantine, via Arjun Kilaru

Two-Piece Set Made During Quarantine, via Arjun Kilaru

As a follow-up to the picture you sent me of a two-piece set that you made for your girlfriend, what is the process like when you are designing something for a specific person versus when you are designing for a model or to explore some theme?

Before I start making something for someone, I already know what I want to make beforehand. I start with a sketch and then I pick a model. The way I [made the two-piece set in quarantine] is that I had an idea, took the measurements, and basically drafted a pattern using the little amount of fabric I had. It turned out really well! It’s really easy for me to alter it and make the design fit the person. 

Is there a difference between what you created for the Show and what you do outside of that?

For the Show, I had a theme that I really wanted to follow, which was using florals as a way to comment on gender. All of the measurements were exactly to fit the models. Whereas what I make on my own, I work with what materials I have and I'm not following any specific patterns; I'm doing whatever I want and eyeballing it. For example, right now I have just been buying some fabric online and picking out something in my closet and making something similar by cutting a template from it. It's a lot more freeing and I'm building my own skills. 

Alessandro Trincone’s Avvolgimi SS19 NYFW Show, pictures accessed via Trincone’s Website

Who or what inspired your MODA collection?

I really like the work of Alessandro Trincone (featured above). He put out this really amazing collection, which had a bunch of awesome dresses that I really admired, and all the models were male. I thought it was super, super cool and it definitely inspired me

Another big inspiration is a Margiela collection, F/W’12, where they created these masks where you couldn’t see the face of the models at all. I thought that represented a lot and I definitely tried to build upon that theme of hiding your face. For MODA, I made a chainmail mask for my collection last year, but I think that that theme can go further.

Maison Margiela F’12 Couture Collection, pictures accessed via Vogue

Maison Margiela F’12 Couture Collection, pictures accessed via Vogue

I like the symbolism of masks because they make you think about disguising yourself and your face and maybe becoming more anonymous or even taking on a character. I feel like there is a weird contradiction in there, right? Because, in some regards, you are trying to hide yourself, but through embellishment. A viewer is meant to be looking at something that you are obstructing. Do you think that fashion does the same work of both hiding yourself and being eye-catching?

Yeah, I think that there's so much you can do with [certain pieces], so it really depends on what you want to get out of it. If you want to use fashion as a way to blend in or become more anonymous, you can do that. On the other side, if you want to stand out and draw that attention to yourself, you can do that as well. The style that I find interesting is the one where you don't know which objective they're going for, and that’s what the masks symbolize to me. I wanted the mask I made to hide the model and reflect the subconsciously desire to be seen, through that ornate design. 

Arjun Kilaru MODA W’20, runway photography by Elliot Duprey

Arjun Kilaru MODA W’20, runway photography by Elliot Duprey

Where do you think your designs are going forward from MODA ?

I definitely learned a lot from the other designers, in terms of techniques and themes. I was just super observant of everything that I saw. There were themes of combining men's and women's fashion in a very direct way. It's more subtle the way that I did. [But, I want to play off of that and put out my own version of that in the future].

How would you describe where your personal style is right now?

I tend to like stuff that I see on red carpets and much less that I just see people wearing on the street. I [try to integrate styles] that I find unconventional and have fun with how I decide to wear it. I really like kimonos and I have like four or five that I'll throw on and layer two at the same time. I don’t really care what the overall trends are. Sometimes what I wear are just random things that I really gravitate towards, like headscarves and masks. I just go with it and see what looks good.

Arjun Kilaru MODA W’20, runway photography by Elliot Duprey

Arjun Kilaru MODA W’20, runway photography by Elliot Duprey

How has being in quarantine affected your materials or techniques utilized in your designs?

It definitely makes the stuff that I make somewhat less risky because I know that if I mess up, I can ruin the fabric by cutting it the wrong size. [At that point, I can’t] fix it. [I don’t have access to fabric stores], like I did when I was designing for MODA. Then, I knew that the worst thing that would happen would be that I have to replace the fabric I had. I also was able to go to the fabric store multiple times for at least an hour each time. The main things that I looked for were colors that go together and the relative durability of the fabrics. It was cool to figure out how I can use their strengths. For example, velvets are a really formal fabric and I wanted to match that with denim because that's not something that you see very often. But what I didn't know is how hard velvet and denim are to sew. At the end of the day, I learned a lot from using them. Now, what I mainly look for in a fabric is how they convey the message or theme of the collection and their ease of use.

Now, in quarantine, I'd have to pay [for shipping] and wait another two weeks for it. It's a lot harder, which is why I've been making stuff that will still teach me and help me grow, but I know I can be safe with and use up fabric I already had.

A lot of people in quarantine have started picking up sewing just so they are able to make functional masks for themselves, their families, and to donate. Do you think this introduction of people wearing masks made from whatever materials and fabrics that they have on hand will eventually make it into the fashion mainstream? What advice would you give to someone finally introducing themselves to sewing?

Yeah, I mean for the Show I also made three or four of those types of masks, and almost went with that design instead. They are really easy to make. I hope that most people who are picking that skill up and will feel like they can make more items on their own. I'm really excited to see more people getting into sewing and designing and I definitely think that it'll build. 

People are teaching things to themselves right now. And like 90% of how I learned to make clothing was from YouTube and asking around. Anything is completely possible. If I was able to go from knowing nothing to creating [an entire collection in a few months], then anyone can, for sure. Especially right now, if you have spare fabric or whatever, you can even use old curtains or old clothing, to teach yourself how and have fun experimenting. I think like you'll learn a lot more than you think. 

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Arjun Kilaru’s Norm-Shifting, Logomania-Influenced Designs

Featured Images via Arjun Kilaru

All Included Collages Made By Ariana Garcia

QuarantIntrospection (A guide to introspection during quarantine) 

A guide to making the best out of forced introspection during quarantine, and how to go about it.

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During a time in which the entire world is forced to stay inside for their families’ as well as their own safety, it is easy to feel overwhelmed with all of this time you now have to yourself. The pressure of introspection can feel very overbearing, making you feel forced to confront yourself in ways that you never had to experience before. This can, however, be a good thing! As long as you approach this process slowly and with unconditional self-love, you can make the best out of this forced isolation in ways that may help you for the rest of your life. In this article, I want to provide with some resources and activities that have assisted me during quarantine and my own journey of furthering my understanding in myself.

  1. Psychomagic by Alejandro Jodorowsky

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I began my quarantine with this magical and deeply insightful book. I arrived back to my home in Miami after leaving campus because of the virus and I found this book that my friend Alex Leemann had let me borrow sitting on my desk. Jodorowsky’s words came into my life the exact moment I needed them the most. Written in an interview style, Jodorowsky introduces his practice that he coined Psychomagic in a deeply detailed manner in which he uses specific acts to speak straight to the consciousness and manifest the outcomes he wishes for. This book has become a major motivational resource during my time in isolation and has helped me through my own problems through a world of magic and spirituality that Jodorowsky creates. 

2. The Seven Spiritual Laws of Success by Deepak Chopra

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The second book that has become my best friend during quarantine is the Seven laws of Success by Deepak Chopra. I have kept this book by my side since I read it a few weeks ago and I return to it constantly whenever I need a refresher. A very quick read, this short book describes seven laws that everyone should follow for a fulfilling and spiritual life. This book has changed my perception on the current world situation and has helped me live my isolated days in a more peaceful manner. One thing that this book has brought to my attention is to be aware of all the busy work u do just to feel important, is it actually nurturing or is it just u telling ur ego that u are busy and working to feel good!!!!!!!!


3. Midnight Gospel

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Netflix’s new psychedelic-infused animated series brings you through a multitude of trippy worlds in which new characters provide insightful and existential dialogue. Perfect for any boring quarantine night in which you want to escape into a mystical new world!

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4. Overtone Hair Dye

Whether you’re like me and you impulsively change your hair color every couple weeks or you have always wanted to but have been too scared to, this is the perfect time to experiment with your look and shape-shift into your inner performer self. Overtone is my go-to for dying my hair as they have a fun variety of color depositing conditioners that wash out very quickly so you can just experiment for fun! 

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5. Follow @Sighswoon on Instagram!

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Gabi, known as @Sighswoon on Instagram, posts insightful memes and captions about self-awareness and introspection. As an online creative, Gabi provides wonderfully perceptive guides on how to develop a positive relationship with your own consciousness and essence. Her page, other than being so aesthetically-pleasing to look at, has helped me introspect through the madness of this pandemic and has expanded my perception on the situation that we are in.



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Quarantine, Memphis-Style

We all have days when we need some fun, colorful inspiration to keep us looking on the sunny side of life. My suggestion? Memphis-style design.

If you don’t know what this means, you’re not alone. I found this tea pot, listed as “Memphis Style Tea Pot,” on Other Times Vintage’s website, and I had no idea what “Memphis style” was. So, vintage enthusiast and curious human that I am, I went on a deep internet dive. And, reader, I fell in love.

Memphis style originated in the 1980s with Ettore Sottsass’s Memphis Group. Active for just seven years, this Italian design and architecture collective was instrumental in the early days of postmodernism, and their influence still resonates in art, interior design, and even fashion—Dior’s Fall 2011 collection was deeply inspired by their style.

Dior fall 2011 images via

If the bright colors and abstract patterns make you wince, if the acrylic and ceramic makes you want to dig yourself a hole to hide in, if the asymmetry makes you throw up your hands and turn away, you are definitely not alone. The group’s designs were widely criticized at the time, especially coming as they did on the heels of the midcentury’s streamlined silhouettes, and the style is still incredibly polarizing. Basically, if you don’t like it, you hate it, but if you like it, you love it.

The style speaks to rebellion, to a fight against “good taste” and tradition, David Bowie was a fan, and, honestly, it just makes me happy. We all need a little more color in our lives. Case in point, I just bought this rug for my room. Loud colors? Yes. Very patterned? Yes. Incredibly smile-inducing? Very much yes.

I’ll stop fangirling at you now and leave you with a collection of pieces I love to help with your procrastination. (Fair warning: don’t get too attached—most of them are wildly expensive) Have fun!

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Source: https://www.instagram.com/p/BUupqA2gSQi/

"Quarantine Cuts" as Spectacle: Why My Boyfriend Got a Haircut over Zoom & We Recorded it

Every time I get a haircut, I’m nervous. I’ve had bangs for years, and I’m very, very particular about their length. Particular might even be an understatement. I want my bangs to cover my eyebrows, but not my eyes. This means that I need to trim my bangs frequently. And for this reason, I often drop into my favorite Hyde Park hair salon, on my way to class. I don’t even have to say anything; the kind woman at the front desk always knows that I’m there for a quick bang trim.

As such, I’ve had my mom trim my bangs under quarantine. And while she’s very good at cutting my hair, I always remind her - repeatedly - that I don’t want her to make my bangs too short. While Audrey Hepburn could pull off the super short bang look, that’s not the look that I’m going for. More than that, while I trust my mom to cut my bangs, there’s no way that I would let someone film one of my haircuts. I’m nervous enough as it is.

However, after weeks under quarantine, my boyfriend said he needed a haircut. Eli’s hair wasn’t even that long, but he’s like me, in that he’s particular about his hair. To be fair, he’s not nearly as intense as I am about hair length, but he likes having a military cut. And he was worried that his hair was getting out of control. As such, while his mom had never cut his hair before, he ordered a clipper online and asked her to cut it for him.

When Eli said he was going to have his mom cut his hair for the first time, I said that we should film it. I found myself needing a fun project to focus upon, and I joked with him that this might be it. However, I honestly didn’t expect him to agree. I knew that I wouldn’t want my first “quarantine cut” to be filmed, so I wasn’t going to push it. More than that, I knew that many of these home cuts don’t go as planned, and I wasn’t going to talk him into posting the video if he wasn’t fully supportive of the endeavor. But, to my surprise, Eli agreed.

A few days later, I called him over Zoom. He and his mom were both in high spirits, as we discussed where to begin. Eli even arranged the lighting in his room, to improve the video footage. And what follows is a video of this haircut - plus a (post-haircut) discussion of his decision to let me record it.

The Video:

The Interview (Post-Haircut)

Me: When did you first decide it was time to get a “quarantine cut,” and why?

Eli: I think there’s always a moment when I enter a panic and realize my hair is too long. And usually I resolve that by walking to the barber. But, this time I realized that obviously wasn’t going to happen.

I’m in a noticeably worse mood when my hair is long…I’m in a bad mood, because I spend all morning trying to get my hair right. And sometimes I don’t want to look in the mirror because I’ll look ridiculous. So I swore to myself that I would always try to keep my hair short. I wasn’t going to be stingy about this. And so I bought a clipper. And I realized that maybe I got the better end of the deal. Maybe, now that I have a clipper, I’ll never have to get a haircut again. Maybe I’ll make lemonade out of lemons.

Me: Awesome. And why did you let me record it? Because I really didn’t think you’d let me do it.

Eli: Cause I’m vain, probably. I just love the look of my face.

Me: Eli! You don’t really mean that.

Eli: I think it’s because I love watching my face in action. I like watching myself make expressions. So I said, well, why not immortalize this for narcissistic means?

Me: You’re not being serious now!

Eli: That’s not true. That’s not true! [He laughs.] Is that not a good answer?

Me: That’s not not a good answer, I just didn’t think that would be your answer.

Eli: Is that not allowed to be my answer?…Well, let me tell MODA this, I love videos of myself. I am not camera shy. So the idea that there would be memories of me immortalized in film, I like that idea…It’s like a blog with my face in it. It’s perfect, right? So I’m a vain cat. Right?

Me: Well, now I know. [I laugh. I’m still not fully convinced he’s being serious.] And were you nervous for the recording? Or how did you feel the day of?

Eli: Well, I was nervous for the haircut, but I rationalized it ahead of time that if there were any major [screw] ups, then we would just call it quits and I’d go bald. And I was okay with going bald. So, I accepted that fate and I wanted to be valiant for the video. So I was ready. I think what you can say fairly is that I was ready. Was I nervous? Maybe. Was I scared? Perhaps…were there butterflies in my stomach? It’s possible. But I was ready. I was as ready as I was ever gonna be for an experience like that. And let me tell you, it paid dividends.

Me: And worst-case scenario, what would have happened? You’ve already basically said this, but-

Eli: I would go bald. Now should I stay with bad hair, that would be worst-case. But I’d already decided that worst-case wouldn’t be acceptable. I said, if we get to that place, “he’s going bald.” (But the “he” is me there.) So that was the mindset I took.

Me: That’s awesome.

Eli: What else do you got? [He laughs. He loves being interviewed.]

Me: Do you now recommend the experience to others? You’ve already answered a bunch of my other questions, but-

Eli: Can I also say this? If you think that you’re going to get some totally cheese cake answer out of me, like, “man, was I scared,” nuh-uh. Right? These are the only answers I’m capable of giving. Alright? So sorry about that. This is all I can do.

Me: You’re on such a roll right now that I can’t tell if you’re serious about the answers you’re giving me.

Eli: Ok, well look. If you love the sound of your voice and the look of your face… and I’m not kidding…if you’re camera shy, then you’re going to be even more camera shy in terms of your hair. And let me tell you this, also, I was scared. Okay? When I looked at that first-

Me: But you said you weren’t scared!

Eli: But now I’m getting to when I was [scared]. When my mom drove that [clipper] through my hair the first bit, and it was like… what did we say on the phone? A reverse mohawk maybe. I was like, “oh no, this is going to be bad.” But then it was okay…And by “do you recommend this,” do you mean have it recorded or cut your hair at home?

Me: Both.

Eli: Well, if you just mean having a haircut at home, then there’s no promises… [But] my hair cuts really easily. So if you have a hair style that you really care about, then you should just let it grow out. I’d also say that most people who have a haircut that they care about, it’s not short. Because if it’s short, then how much do you care? Right? So, if you have a long haircut that can get a little longer, wait this pandemic out. But if you’re okay being bald and you like good risks, like speeding down the highway…if you’re that type of person, and you don’t mind going bald, then it’s for you.

Me: Okay. And then the last big question: are you happy with the cut?

Eli: Oh we can keep going for awhile, I promise. But, yeah, I was elated, actually. And I’ll say this-

Me: Ahh, Eli, I think recording you was a bad idea. Because now you’re just on such a roll. I don’t trust-

Eli: I’ll say this… if I had to graph my emotions, let’s say I was good, then I was a little scared, and then it went way up when I thought it was great. [He points to illustrate his “graph.”] And that [after] photo you took, that’s the height of it. Then I looked in the mirror later, and all down here [he points to the back of his head], it was too long. My mom hadn't seen it, because of my very good lighting. So I had to refine it, and once it was refined, the graph went back up.

And now, you noted that my hair has been a little uneven. But I will say, as a “vouching mechanism,” that I’m getting my mom to do this again. So if I really thought it was a bad idea, then I wouldn’t have her cut my hair again. But she’s going to. So that’s good evidence that I thought it was pretty good.

Needless to admit, Eli really enjoyed both the haircut itself and the spectacle of having it recorded (and of being interviewed).

Click here, for thumbnail image source. The video’s soundtrack is the Austin Powers theme song: “Soul Bossa Nova.”

Studio Ghibli Flims to Help You Escape Reality

What’s not to love about Studio Ghibli movies? They’re filled with breathtaking animations, delightful soundtracks, lovable and well-developed characters, and intriguing plots. The films don’t shy away from addressing serious issues, but they remain infused with a childlike sense of wonder and a glorification of everyday beauty, which we could certainly use right now. Even if you didn’t grow up watching them, they have the ability to instantaneously transport you back to your childhood. With diverse storylines covering themes of romance, coming-of-age, and war, there’s something for everybody to enjoy. While Studio Ghibli movies are enjoyable anytime, I would especially recommend them right now, as they can provide a much-needed sense of escapism and comfort during these uncertain times.

My Neighbor Totoro (1988), dir. Hayao Miyazaki

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My Neighbor Totoro is perhaps the most universally beloved Studio Ghibli film. Its titular character, forest spirit Totoro, is not only one of the most popular and recognizable animated characters of all time, but has also come to represent Studio Ghibli as a whole. The film follows the lives of two young sisters, Satsuki and Mei, who move to the Japanese countryside with their father in order to be closer to the hospital where their ill mother resides.

The girls face great uncertainty due to their mother’s health, but they find comfort in the form of characters such as Totoro and the Catbus, a giant bus-shaped cat. Upon watching My Neighbor Totoro, it’s not difficult to understand the movie’s long-lasting popularity. The human characters are given a commendable degree of characterization, and the forest creatures are all lovably adorable. This film is a perfect whimsical delight and is certain to bring you great joy while watching.

Whisper of the Heart (1995), dir. Yoshifumi Kondo

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This is, in my opinion, the most underrated Studio Ghibli film. It’s generally overlooked in favor of the other Studio Ghibli movies, perhaps due to its lack of fantastical elements. But, it has some of the best storytelling of any Studio Ghibli film and features truly stunning animated hilltop views of Tokyo. Whisper of the Heart stars junior high student Shizuku, who loves reading fantasy novels. She longs for an adventure of her own. A series of intriguing events help give her this adventure she so desires.

Shizuku discovers that most of her library books were all previously checked out by the same person, a boy named Seiji Amasawa. One day, on her way to the library, she follows a cat she meets on the subway into an antique store run by a kindly grandfather. Meanwhile, she must deal with her changing feelings toward a mysterious classmate. These occurrences all converge into a beautiful coming-of-age romance. Shizuku is an incredibly well-written character who is immensely relatable, and whose emotions are conveyed in a moving manner.

Kiki’s Delivery Service (1989) dir. Hayao Miyazaki

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Like My Neighbor Totoro, Kiki’s Delivery Service is a Studio Ghibli classic. It’s the story of Kiki, a 13-year-old witch who, following tradition, leaves home to train as a witch. Her new home is a beautiful coastal town, where she moves in with a bakery owner and starts her own delivery service. As to be expected, Kiki initially has great difficulties settling into her new life and struggles with feelings of loneliness and inadequacy. As college students, we may be a bit older than Kiki, but her journey toward independence is a highly relatable and heartwarming one. Kiki’s Delivery Service is a fantastic movie about the struggles and joys of growing up.

Howl’s Moving Castle (2004) dir. Hayao Miyazaki

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Howl’s Moving Castle deals with themes of war, age, and love in an incredibly vivid and imaginative manner. Protagonist Sophie, a young hatter, is transformed into a 90-year-old woman through a witches curse. While seeking a cure, she ends up living in the magical moving castle of Howl, a notorious wizard. Howl’s castle is also home to Markl, Howl’s apprentice, and Calcifer, a sarcastic fire demon. Howl’s Moving Castle features a colorful array of characters, whose relationships (as well as the stunning landscape animations) are what really allow the film to shine. These characters are voiced in the English dub by an all-star cast, including Christian Bale, Emily Mortimer, Billy Crystal, and Josh Hutcherson.

Spirited Away (2001) dir. Hayao Miyazaki

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Spirited Away is one of Studio Ghibli’s best-received films. Elements of magic and fantasy are especially prevalent here, even when compared to the studio’s other movies. 10-year-old Chihiro finds her parents transformed into pigs after they stop by an abandoned amusement park on the way to their new home. To save her parents, Chihiro must work for a malicious witch who runs a bathhouse. Chihiro encounters a number of lively spirits, including the incredibly popular character No-Face. The soundtrack for Spirited Away is truly incredible and makes the movie worth the watch.

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MODA Blog Favorites: May 2020

Welcome to MODA Blog Favorites! This is our monthly series where MODA Bloggers, photographers and editors let you know what we’re loving this month! From binge-worthy series, to our favorite books to some Holy Grail skincare products, the team wishes you all a safe, and healthy spring quarter. Here’s what the team is loving, hopefully bringing you a monthly dosage of inspiration!


Andrew

Hollywood

I very rarely sit down to watch any kind of show that doesn’t include a drag queen in it, but after a bit of prodding, I sat through an episode of Ryan Murphy and Ian Brennan’s Hollywood; and then I proceeded to finish the entire miniseries. I think it’s hard to describe the miniseries, but perhaps something along the lines of a reinvented vision of the golden age of Hollywood. There were certainly many creative liberties taken with the show's direction, as the miniseries seemed to be an attempt to dismantle the power dynamics of the entertainment landscape for a new, more contemporary audience, and while some of the choices seemed naïve at times, I’ll give the show credit for making the attempt. Aesthetic often consumes most of my reading of a show, and I think if you’re interested in that glossy vision of old Hollywood, the miniseries does a really great job of capturing that glow of cinema.

Persona 4

Being quarantined has kind of made me rethink how I carry through a daily schedule. When it all started, I tried to reconnect with things that make me feel happy and more relaxed, and video games was that for me - specifically Persona 4. I hadn’t really played any games in the Shin Megami Tensei universe before, but Persona 4 for the PS2, is a game that I highly recommend. On top of an incredible aesthetic and world, that mixes elements of Japanese mythology and street style, with a gripping murder mystery narrative, I was floored by how the actual mechanics of the game combine elements of traditional RPG/JRPG’s, Visual novels and simulation-style gaming, adding to the aesthetic hybridity of the game. But I think what still stands out to me about Persona is the types of stories it engages with and the themes of identity, self-worth and acceptance it explores. I really recommend you play it if you’re interesting in gaming; I also think it’s pretty amateur gamer friendly so don’t let it intimidate you.

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Chromatica

Lady Gaga is back y’all. And I think that’s kind of an interesting loaded statement, as Chromatica really feels like a return to an old-school version of Gaga, but with the influence of whole new slew of experiences. I was blasting ‘Stupid Love’ when the single first dropped, (and i suppose so was Apple) and I think during this pandemic, the album does remind me of the healing powers that music can have on its listeners. A much more electronic album, I find that Chromatica invokes a new kind of sound from Gaga that builds on personas from Artpop, and even from the Fame, but I think with even stronger vocal range. And I think I would be remiss if I didn’t mention my top song from the album, Sour Candy featuring BLACKPINK. Give me an album with consistent dance beats and a BLACKPINK Feature, and I will put you on my favorites list for many years to come.

Images via here, here and here


Laura

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Virtual Tarot Readings

It hit me one day during quarantine that I had I had to get my cards read. This was a vital piece that I was missing and I felt like it had been ripped out of my life due to social distancing. However, that is when my friend recommended me that I try out tarot readings videos on YouTube. While it may not be the same thing as picking out a card that is drawing your energies to it in real life, the process of online tarot readings is not as different as you would imagine. One of my favorite readers right now, Venusian Soul Tarot, lays out the cards on the frame and allows you to meditate on them and choose the card you are drawn to. Then, you can skip to the part of the video where she is speaking about your card. The medium might have changed but the energies of the tarot are the same!

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Guys by The 1975

Being far from your friends is hard. Being in the same place as your friends but not being able to see them is even harder. The 1975’s new song “Guys” reflects upon missing your friends and the relationship you share with them. I think this song came at the perfect time for me and spoke straight to my soul and I have not been able to stop listening to it. I identify myself deeply with Matty Healy’s words about how his friends are the best things that have ever happened.

When Matty Healy said “It was the best thing that ever happened” about his friends, yeah I felt that.

Images via here, here and here


Sophia

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Cooking Tree Youtube Channel

My recent coping mechanism for staying at home every day has been to bake profusely. I really like Cooking Tree’s baking videos because they are very aesthetically pleasing and calming. Sometimes the videos are even ASMR videos, so if you like ASMR too this is perfect. The strawberry chiffon cake on the left is what I baked for Mother’s Day.

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Kaco Soft Touch Gel Ink Pens

For those of you who are also a slut for stationary, these 0.5 mm gel pens have been my favorite recently. They flow so smoothly and I can write tiny with them. They are very light and the matte finish on them makes it very comfortable to grip.

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Any Song by ZICO

The song mixes lively piano chords with a bouncy backing track, which yields a very upbeat song that leaves me vibing out no matter the time of day. He sings/raps about going out with friends, not thinking about the future, and just enjoying the time you have with them. Being stuck at home, where all I can do is think about the future, this song lifts my mood when I miss the excitement of being on campus.

Images via here, here and here

Grace

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Parentheses

I stumbled upon Parentheses’ music by chance while scouring Spotify for new music. Since then, I’ve been listening to their two albums, {} and Technicolor Bluebird on repeat. The songs are vibrant and upbeat, with an indie rock feel reminiscent of Hippo Campus or Vampire Weekend. My personal favorite songs rom the band are “Jackson Pollock,” “It’s Always Sunny With You,” and “In Need of a Cure.”

The Half of It

Netflix recently released The Half of It, a heartwarming coming-of-age film. It focuses on Ellie Chu, an introverted student who is hired by classmate Paul to write love letters to his crush Aster. Ellie happens to secretly be in love with Aster herself. Seeing the relationships between the characters develop throughout the movie is incredibly rewarding. The engaging plot is made even better through the cast’s emotionally compelling performances.

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Some Good News

John Krasinski’s Youtube channel seeks to spread some positivity. The show highlights happy stories, surprises viewers with Zoom calls from their favorite celebrities, and features virtual reunions of the case of The Office. What’s not to love?

Images via here, here, and here.

Catherine

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Candles from BASIK CANDLE CO

These candles are anything BUT basic. They are coconut wax candles handmade in San Francisco. I the “No. 5 mediterranean fig tree” and the “No. 4 Blood Orange and Bergamot” which I highly recommend. Unlike some candle scents that can come off as quite overwhelming and artificial, these candle scents are subtle and fresh. I enjoy burning them as a way to unwind and relax.

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Phoebe Bridgers

Phoebe Bridgers’ debut album Stranger in the Alps was released 3 years ago but lately I’ve found myself listening to her music more. Her songwriting and lyrics are quite poetic and have a healing quality like that of rupi kaur’s poetry. Along with the tracks from “Stranger in the Alps,” her most recent songs include “Kyoto” and “Garden Song.”

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Spring Bloom

Last weekend was mother’s day, so I picked up a bouquet for my mom. My favourite flowers to display around the house are a vase filled with peonies. Spring bloom can really brighten up and add colour to a space. Having flowers around the house right now really feels like a luxury, but a bouquet of flowers can be a great mood booster and a way to support small businesses in your neighbourhood.

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Audrey

Sun Bum Hair Conditioner

Missing the beach? Sun Bum’s daily conditioner includes ingredients like banana and coconut oil, so it smells just like a tropical smoothie. Even better, this conditioner also rejuvenated and hydrated my long hair, after just a few washes. And using it always makes me happy, because its fruity scent reminds me of going to the beach!

Aromatherapy Crystal Mist No. 9: Love + Comfort

My mom gave me a couple bottles of Ark Made’s arometherapy mists, and I’ve been using them ever since. I often spray scent No. 9: Love + Comfort near my desk, while studying. The mist gives my surroundings a calming, flowery scent. (And mist No. 9 is my favorite!)

The Age of Celebrity Cosmetics

“The last thing the world needs is another beauty brand. But that’s too bad,” Lady Gaga proclaimed in an advert for the launch of her makeup line, Haus Laboratories. She is not wrong to point out that there has been an increase in the number of new beauty brands hitting the market—many being led by celebrities. None of this is necessarily new, but the rate at which celebrities are taking control of their cosmetic lines has increased dramatically in the last decade.

Back in 1987, Elizabeth Taylor created one of the first, and certainly the biggest, celebrity-launched perfume line. At the time, celebrity endorsement was growing as a means to advertise products, but Elizabeth opted to start her own company, the House of Taylor. Her first perfume would win her a Fifi award, the most prestigious award in the fragrance industry, and her subsequent perfumes would establish her perfume line as a staple of celebrity brands.

Thirty-two years later, and the Haus of Gaga (Lady Gaga’s creative group) would launch their own beauty brand, Haus Laboratories. The line currently sells eyeliners, lip glosses, shimmer powders, and lip liners. Although technically a collaboration with Coty Inc. and Amazon, the brand’s public image is all Gaga. Gaga joins a long list of contemporary celebrities starting up their own brands. Selena Gomez has recently launched Rare Beauty, and Ariana Grande launched her own “thank u next” perfume line.

Although Grande’s perfume is her first dip into the fragrance world, she has been collaborating with makeup brands for years. Most notably, in 2015 she joined the ranks of Selena Quintanilla, Mariah Carey, and Madonna with her first MAC Cosmetics collaboration. The proceeds to her collection go towards helping those affected by AIDS. MAC is iconic for their inclusion of celebrities, and Ariana’s partnership with them proved not only that she was stepping into a new realm of stardom but that MAC still knows how to remain in the social consciousness.

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As is apparent with Ariana Grande launching her own line, though, celebrities are seeking more autonomy over the products they release. It seems that many have grown past the desire to have their names attached to a prestigious beauty brand. It has now become a race to make one’s own name prestigious.

Indeed, after launching her own brand with money she had saved from modeling, Kylie Jenner surpassed any and all expectations with the success of her Kylie Lip Kits. Since 2016, the brand Kylie Cosmetics has launched its creator into becoming the youngest “self-made” billionaire. It stands to wonder if the success came from the already established Kardashian fame, or did Kylie Cosmetics really revolutionize the lip market?

Whenever Kylie Cosmetics is mentioned, Rihanna’s Fenty Beauty is not far behind. Certainly, Rihanna’s cosmetic line has grown to be one of the most notable cosmetic brands of the past decade despite only being released in 2017. With its focus on an inclusive shade range, it quickly eclipsed other brands in sales and publicity.

Fenty Beauty has clearly become the focus of Rihanna’s attention for the past few years, much to the disdain of her music fans. Any time a new release comes, there is as much praise for the products as there are, “Where’s the album?” comments. Similar comments have been directed towards Lady Gaga as Haus Labs appeared to be her focus over her “Chromatica” album. Do celebrity beauty brands come at the cost of their art? The annoyance directed at Rihanna’s beauty venture has nevertheless been eclipsed by praise. Her latest photo promoting her Savage x Fenty lingerie line has become one of her most like posts in a matter of days.

On a different note, brands like that of Rihanna and Gaga are not as entirely independent as they first appear. As mentioned, Haus Labs is owned by Coty Inc. This company is also affiliated with Kylie Cosmetics, Katy Perry Perfumes, and many other well-known brands. Notably, 50% of Fenty Beauty’s revenue is now owned by Louis Vuitton SE (LVMH). Despite celebrities having more control of their beauty products, the major beauty corporations have managed to forge new partnerships that benefit them. The names of brands have shifted, but the big players have not.

Nevertheless, it cannot be denied that celebrity-owned brands are growing in cultural influence over past, well-established brans. Kylie Cosmetics is in the top 10 most influential beauty brands of 2019, and Rihanna’s Fenty Beauty has been adapted in the social lexicon for beauty brand excellence. Fenty was popularized for being one of the first beauty lines to release a truly inclusive shade range. This followed various scandals of brands promoting a diverse range but failing to execute. It is clear that celebrity brands have a reputation for being at the forefront of innovation and inclusion.

As established beauty brands continue to collaborate with celebrities, and opening the world up to YouTube celebrities as well, it is clear that this a symbiotic relationship that will continue to flourish. However, the artist’s need for control over their art is driving celebrities to gain as much ownership as they can over products that use their likeness. As the beauty industry shifts towards more inclusivity and diversity, the biggest names in Hollywood like Rihanna and Gaga are leading the charge. The real question—will traditional brands allow this takeover?

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The Virtual Travel Hop: From NYC to Sardegna and Beyond

When my family visited Florence’s Uffizi Gallery, we missed Botticelli’s Birth of Venus. It was a hot summer afternoon, and we chose to wander the gallery ourselves. We had a map, and we spent hours marveling at the gallery’s statues and frescos.

But, I’ll admit that I’ve never liked tours. Like my parents, I’ve always preferred to explore on my own. As such, it wasn’t until we entered the museum’s gift shop that we realized we’d missed Botticelli’s work. We laughed. We hadn’t intended to miss viewing one of the most famous paintings in the world, but we’d nonetheless had a great afternoon. And so we left the museum, and trekked back to our hotel.

A few years later, I found myself wanting to know more about art, from a formal perspective. And so when I ranked my 2020 Spring Quarter classes, I listed 19th Century French Art in the Art Institute of Chicago first. Of course, this class isn’t about Italian Renaissance art. But, I’ve spent years dragging my family to art galleries, and I wanted to learn to think better about the works that I’m often so aesthetically drawn to. More than that, I wanted an excuse to take the “L” to the AIC twice a week. I figured I’d write my MODA articles from a bench in the European Painting and Sculpture Galleries.

The Art Institute of Chicago

The Art Institute of Chicago

I now find myself enrolled in the art history course I’d so wanted. However, while we plan to someday travel to the AIC in person, the class is nonetheless taught over Zoom. We often talk in class about the day we’ll all gather in person - and view the works with our own eyes. But, for the meantime, my art travels (and travels in general) have been suspended.

However, while it’s not nearly equivalent to wandering an art gallery or walking off the tarmac in a new city, I’ve been increasingly studying the instagram feeds of some of my favorite content creators. And I’ve found myself enjoying these “virtual travels.” The photos are a reminder of all the places I someday hope to visit. And while instagram photos are obviously quite different from Botticelli’s paintwork, they nonetheless represent their own genre of artistry. There is something captivating about a single photo, so expertly framed and edited, that it can stand alone as its own story. And I find myself increasingly enjoying these photo stories. They allow me to temporarily travel beyond Columbus, Ohio. And they act as a reminder of the impact that both art and travel can have on individual lives - even from afar.

As such, what follows is a virtual itinerary - from NYC to Sardegna - of some of my favorite Instagram feeds.

  • NYC and Beyond, from the lens of Chloe Chung: @chloejg

From French onion soup cravings to brunch spots, lots of coffee, and walking in the rain, Chloe is a proud New Yorker who documents her explorations around the Big Apple. One of my favorite aspects of her feed is that she captures the city’s grit, without losing a sense of its simultaneous warmth. And studying her feed always makes me want to pull on my boots and head to a local coffee shop.

  • Lisbon and Beyond, from the lens of AI Scientist and Fine Art Photographer Sejkko: @sejkko

This has been one of my favorite feeds for years. Simultaneously whimsical and haunting, Sejkko’s portrayals of lonely houses always make me want to write. I find myself wondering about the possible inhabitants of these fictitious, yet all-too-real, creations. More than that, the colors of Sejkko’s photos make me want taffy.

As Sejkko writes himself, these “lonely houses were a way to keep the child in me, and the weird side of myself at peace…” And while Sejkko just recently decided that it is time to move on from these house portraits, he plans to continue his feed. The first photo in the gallery (below, top left), is representative of Sejkko’s transition to new subjects: “This image represents a bit of a transition. I am inside one of those [lonely] houses looking beyond the sun, wondering about worlds that could exist.” Needless to say, I’m excited to see where Sejkko’s future endeavors lead.

  • The English Countryside and Beyond, from the Lens of Photographer and Book Connoisseur Carolyn: @theslowtraveler

With her dog Lenny by her side, Carolyn explores everything from old bookstores, to castles and the Lake District. And while her photos are themselves beautiful, I also enjoy her captions. She’s a careful and honest observer, who finds joy in observing her everyday life. From watching ducks in an English garden, to enjoying her own garden and laughing about Lenny’s exploits, she consistently provides little vignettes of life in the English countryside. (She also dresses Lenny stylishly, for the holidays.) And she just started a monthly women’s book club, @theslowtravelerbookclub, to discuss novels with her community of fans.

As Ally writes in her bio, she’s “probably waiting in line for tacos.” And her feed is an homage to all things retro and summery. From photographing old road signs and haciendas, to Mexican food, midcentury homes, and hiking trails, her feed makes me want to travel to somewhere warm (ideally with tacos).

  • Morocco, Egypt, and Beyond, from the Lens of Emilie: @emilielula

Emilie’s captions are short and mysterious, and her photos are equally sparse. But they don’t need explanation. Her photos often include camels, books, and lots of sand. And the mysteriousness of her feed only makes me more excited to someday explore far flung regions of the globe.

  • Italy and Beyond, from the Lens of Creative Director and Photographer Simone Bramante: @brahmino

Simone is a prolific photographer, with well over one thousand images in his feed. And it’s clear from studying his brightly-colored photographs that each image is a finalized project and story. As Simone writes in his bio, he’s all about aesthetics, story, and message. And during these uncertain times, he’s focusing upon his own surroundings in Italy. Rather than engage in mass tourism, Simone “invite[s] everyone to get to know their territory, their valleys, preferably by helping the economy of small businesses, because they often know how to stay in balance with their own environment.” And while his photos feature regions from all over the globe, he has increasingly begun to depict the Italian countryside.

Click here, for thumbnail image source. The image was taken by @brahmino and features Sardegna, Capo Comino.

Everything You Need to Know About Caroline Calloway

If you’ve recently spent a lot of time on social media, especially Twitter, you’ve probably seen the name Caroline Calloway mentioned numerous times. The Internet’s obsession with Caroline Calloway has been steadily growing over the past few years, only continuing to rise after she provides scandal after scandal. But who exactly is Caroline Calloway, and why is she so controversial?

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Caroline Calloway was the predecessor to the influencers of today. In the early 2010s, back in the early days of Instagram, she purchased 40,000 followers. These followers helped kickstart her social media career, and she eventually became popular for writing long captions musing about her life. Calloway especially focusing on presenting an idealized depiction of life as a Cambridge student and on describing in detail her relationships and break-ups with her college boyfriends. These captions, a staple of her brand, eventually allowed her to receive a book deal. Calloway couldn’t get enough writing done for the book, so the deal fell through in 2017.

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Caroline Calloway’s first major scandal was in 2018, when she announced a US tour of creativity workshops. The workshops were advertised as 5-hour-long sessions in which she would provide handmade salads and homemade care packages that included personalized letters. Tickets to the event cost $165 apiece. As the first stop of the tour grew clear, it became clear that Calloway was not prepared.

She gradually began backing out of the promises she had made. The first to go were the personalized letters, which she said were taking more time than she had hoped. The flower crown making session she had promised turned out to be a mere photoshoot with reusable flower clips. She did complete her salads, but attendees reported the salads being incredibly lackluster and not what had been promised. Press surrounding the tour grew so bad that Calloway canceled the remaining events and refunded the tickets, only to uncancel the tour a few days later. The failure of the tour drew comparisons to events such as the notorious Fyre Festival and contributed to Calloway’s reputation as a scammer.

A picture from Calloway’s infamous workshop tour. Image via.

A picture from Calloway’s infamous workshop tour. Image via.

The other major scandal of Caroline Calloway’s career came last September when Natalie Beach, her ex-best-friend from her days at NYU, released a scathing article in The Cut detailing their tumultuous friendship. Beach revealed herself as the ghostwriter behind many of Calloway’s Instagram captions. She felt that Calloway had been an unstable and unreliable friend who had often taken advantage of her.

The article is filled with anecdotes from the pairs’ friendship, including trips to Europe gone wrong, Calloway hiring Beach to run an Airbnb for her, and their attempts to work on Calloway’s memoir before the book deal fell through. Calloway took to social media many times to write about how the publishing of this article had affected her, reminiscing on her friendship with Beach and on the public’s shifting opinion of her. Recently, she’s begun directly responding to the article, sharing her side of the story on her personal website.

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Image via.

It’s hard to pinpoint exactly why the Internet is so obsessed with Caroline Calloway. But her story creates an undeniable fascination and intrigue. Perhaps it’s because of the elite, seemingly unattainable lifestyle she espouses. Perhaps it’s because of the neverending controversy. Perhaps it’s because of her role in shaping the use of social media for personal gain into what it is today. Maybe someday, the world will crack the mystery that is Caroline Calloway. But until then, we’ll just have to sit and wait, scrolling through her numerous posts on Instagram and Twitter.

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Quarantine Skillshare: Juliana Freschi’s Dreamy Pokes

Juliana Freschi is a graduating fourth year sociology major and tattoo artist. While at UChicago she sang in Dirt Red Brass Band and was both president and an active member of Motet Choir. You can find more pictures and up-to-date info about her tattoos on Instagram via @dreamypokes!

Hand poke tattoos are the most accessible, self-created form of magic available in quarantine, says graduating fourth-year Juliana Freschi. They are at once affirming, adornment, and a positive change. Her tattoo imagery draws from a range of styles, from art deco to traditional to bold geometry to delicate stippling, all while remaining distinctively hers. 

Working both within and outside of the broader Chicago tattoo community, Freschi enjoys the act of giving tattoos because of how they connect her to the individual. The edited conversation transcribed below covers Freschi’s start to tattooing, her thesis on sociological boundary work, and how stick and poking herself in quarantine has imparted the magical and transformational qualities of the medium. 


Examples of Freschi’s Work via @dreamypokes

Examples of Freschi’s Work via @dreamypokes


Ariana Garcia: How would you describe your style of tattooing?

Juliana Freschi: I don’t really have one. I like to stay open to all different styles. My artistic style and visual language stay kind of fluid. I’m definitely influenced by traditional tattoo imagery, which has been sort of a recent development. Probably in the last few months, hearts, cherries, and pinup girls have been coming up in my drawings more and more. I also have a strong affinity for geometry and clean lines and shapes. I’m trying to find a way to marry those two things. 

How and when did you start to get into tattooing? 

It was the summer before my third year and I had spent it drawing. I had just gotten my first tattoo in the April of my second year and it was by a former UChicago student who used to do stick and pokes out of their apartment. It was this homemade style and the DIY experience: in their living room, their roommates were drinking beer right next to us, and me draped over a chair. It was a really ideal first tattoo experience. I really liked it and I started following more and more tattoo artists and realized how accessible it is. It’s even more accessible now than it was two years ago. Now, everyday new stick and pokers are popping up with new Instagram accounts. A lot of people could get into it, find relative success, and just have fun with it. So I ordered some really basic materials off of Amazons (a 100 piece variety pack of needles and really shitty ink) and practiced on a banana first, then myself, and gave my roommate a tattoo on her ankle. 

Also, when I am getting a tattoo, I just ask the artist a ton of questions about what they’re doing and their experiences. That’s how I’ve learned a lot of techniques because, when it comes to DIY tattooing, there is not that much solid information available, other than some YouTube videos and old articles of just super basic information. So, if you want to learn the more advanced stuff you have to go out there in the field to talk to other artists. 

From Flash Drawing to Ink, accessed via @dreamypokes

From Flash Drawing to Ink, accessed via @dreamypokes

Do you think that your attitude towards receiving tattoos on yourself has changed since that first one?

Definitely. Especially considering how many tattoos I have now, I started getting them really late. I mean I got my first tattoo in April of 2018 and I was 20. But then after that I just really liked the way it became a part of my body and I got so used to looking at it. 

What drew you to stick and poke tattooing specifically?

That's sort of like a comfort thing. It's not like in a studio where it feels sort of sterile, but it's like kind of a hang out, right? Also, hand poking is really great for starting out because tattoo machines are really, really expensive. First of all, they're $300 to $600 and then you have to buy a power supply, which is like $200 and then all of the different cartridges and grips and everything. Stick and poking is way more economically feasible. It's not a huge investment if you're not really sure how seriously you want to take it. So that was pretty great for just wanting to dabble in it. When I first started I bought supplies off of Amazon.

As an art form in and of itself, hand poking is a much slower pace. A tattoo machine is like having a pen and drawing a line, whereas hand poking you have to make that line out of many tiny individual dots. So it probably takes four times as long. But that said, you have so much more control over the piece that you're making. I kind of feel more connected, a lot more present, and a personal connection with the pieces I make because I'm bringing them to life, one tiny dot at a time.

And then working from home is very chill, and I think it's just really welcoming for people. Not to say that shops can't be welcoming because a lot of people that I know have really beautiful and relaxing spaces that they've made, [like Time Being], which is a newer shop where the residents all have DIY backgrounds as artists.

What is the process from moving from a tattoo design to actually putting it on a person, especially when you’re making something specifically for them, and not for a flash sheet?

When people have an idea, it becomes a collaborative process. For example, sometimes people will already have a drawing that they've made that they want me to tattoo for them, which I really like doing. Any tattoo artist is going to say that making your own designs or your own flash is really gratifying because it is. But then I also enjoy making other people's art come to life as well because that's clearly so special for them, which I love. Then some people will bring an image they want, but ask me to put my personal spin on it. Like this one guy wanted some skis, but he wanted me to put a little geometric flair on them. This type of collaboration is definitely a challenge for me, but it's fun to stretch my creativity and think about how to conceptually apply my visual language. 

Tats courtesy of @dreamypokes

How does it feel for you to give a tattoo? What are you thinking about when you do this?

It's a lot of pressure, of course, because you don't want to mess up somebody's body. It's simultaneously really relaxing because the process of a hand poke tattoo is very meditative for me because of the type of brain that I have. I've always been able to focus on detail-oriented things for a long time. So I can just zone in on a tattoo for three hours and it feels like no time has passed. I love to get into that zone and make something happen. 

It's important not to take that all lightly because like you are permanently altering somebody's body, and there's a lot of different elements and facets [of technique] that you have to take into consideration. Not only is the final piece a thing that they're going to carry with them forever and you want it to be as good as possible, but I think that the experience of receiving the tattoo is just as much imprinted into that image.

Who or what inspires you?

On Instagram, I follow so many inspiring tattoo artists, so it’s hard for me to narrow it down because I like so many different styles. I am drawn to people who make bold, traditionally-inspired tattoos and know their style as artists. Recently because of quarantine, I have been seeing all of these tattoo artists translate their designs to canvas, paper, and clothing, which is an exciting experience because I feel like I'm getting to know a different side to all of these artists. For example, there's this one artist Emma Bagley over in [Santa Fe, New Mexico] who takes traditional imagery, but then makes them a little more psychedelic and warped.

I'm also inspired by people who know a lot about tattoo history. There are two Chicago artists who come to mind: Sema [Graham] Tattoo  and Kyle Butler. I love them. They just know everything there is to know about tattooing and they think it's the most amazing art form in the world. Like they are obsessed with it. And I think it really comes through in their practices and the art that they make because they are so invested. 

But, you don't have to be obsessed with tattoo history to be an amazing tattoo artist. There's a million and one ways to be a tattoo artist. I'm excited when people are clearly passionate about the art they're making or when they're doing something new, something inspired.

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Reworking

The Traditional

Featured Tattoos by:

@kybut

@emasesame

@sema.tattoo

How do you engage with tattoo history? Is there any sort of facet there that you identify with? 

For my thesis, I actually interviewed 17 tattoo artists. Before this, I didn't really have any appreciation for traditional tattoo imagery or culture, and I just kind of thought it was all sort of boring or too old school, et cetera. Through doing this research and seeing how passionate these different artists were about it, I also gained more appreciation for it. [Traditional imagery, as a result,] started to come up more in the things that I'm drawing and the things that I want to get on my own body. I wouldn't say that I know a ton of history, but I could name drop old school artists who were foundational. I think they're just so badass. There's absolutely a reason that [those designs] have lasted so long and yeah, it's made me want to incorporate it more into the art that I am making. 

What was your thesis about?

 It was using all of these tattoo artists as a case study in boundary work, which in sociological literature is basically like gatekeeping. So, I'm talking about how all of these tattoo artists construct their individual identity as artists by comparing themselves to others, and either validating or invalidating things that other people in the tattoo community do. I think that gathering all of that research was the most fun I've ever had. I made so many friends by just talking about tattoos. If I had to give some thesis advice, I’d recommend that you do it on something that you are actually really passionate about, so you can talk to people that you think are awesome.

Chicago has a really amazing, strong, tightly knit tattoo community. What’s it like being a part of that? Do you feel a part of that?

Being in Hyde Park makes it harder to feel included because all of the shops and most of the client base is on the North Side, but that's okay. Tattoo artists are the nicest people in the whole wide world and it's the most welcoming community ever. I don't even have to have met some of these people in person for them to be people I would consider friends. Everyone's just really supportive of everyone else's work . We're always commenting on each other's stuff and sharing it and just being like, yo, that's sick. Like the response that people had to my thesis research was heartwarming because everyone was really eager to participate and talk about tattoos. They were just so accommodating. I really love everybody who's a part of the community. I wouldn't say that I'm super in it, but the connections that I have made with people have been very important to me, and really pure and wholesome. That's what I would say. Tattoo artists are just wholesome.

How has quarantine affected your work or how you engage with it?

 I miss tattooing people, but it's also kind of been amazing because, to be honest, I didn't really know anything about art when I got into tattooing. I've never had formal training and I didn't know a lot of basic technical stuff, which I always felt was a disadvantage. Sometimes I look at other people and I'll be like, damn, like y'all just like, know how to shade something. And I'm over here being like, everything I make looks wonky, in my head. So quarantine has been this incredible opportunity for me to just learn. I've been experimenting with a lot of different media like oil pastels, soft pastels, colored pencils, charcoal, graphite, painting and it's been the most fun ever. Quarantine has been a great time for me to really figure out more deeply what truly inspires me and what the art is that I really want to be making. So, yeah, I've just been able to like think about that and engage with it a lot more. 

I have some t-shirts in the works. Um, I did this really dumb thing. I bought a pack of tee shirts and then I got home and realized that they were children's t-shirts. Yeah, they are boys large. But, you know, actually it's not that bad because the boy's large is kind of like an adult small, and they just sort of fit like baby tees...whatever. Hopefully somebody will wear this anyways. So, yeah. I've been painting t-shirts. 

1/2 Self-Poked Quarantine Tats via @dreamypokes

1/2 Self-Poked Quarantine Tats via @dreamypokes

Have you given yourself any tattoos during quarantine?

Yes I have tattooed myself twice in quarantine. Both of those pieces that I made were exciting for me because I was trying out a different technique. Especially the most recent one I made, which is lips with a cherry, was a bit of a challenge because it had a certain type of detail that I had never really attempted before. But I was really happy with the way it came out and I was like, yay, we're making progress. And I felt like it was a step forward in what I want my sort of look to be. 

For some reason, though, I am more afraid or more hesitant to tattoo myself than other people. I have some friends who tattoo themselves constantly and that's great because you're practicing so much. But I'm always afraid to mess up my own body. Doing it has been a good exercise in trusting myself. I also really like the power to customize my own body. I've tattooed myself one, two, three, four, like seven, no eight times. I started really small and I slowly got to doing bigger and bigger things and I'm really happy with the way they've turned out.

2/2 Self-Poked Quarantine Tats via @dreamypokes

2/2 Self-Poked Quarantine Tats via @dreamypokes

It's also made me feel more confident in my own ability and in my body. Tattoos are amazing for making you love your body and your skin, which is huge, especially during quarantine because it's been such a rough time for people who struggle with their bodies or have disordered eating.

It's just been a really brutal time for all of us out here. Tattooing myself has been a great way to check in with myself and take some time, zone into this work, and then make something that I'm really proud of, on my own skin. I also like tattooing myself because I can take however much time I want and I can always go back and make changes to it later, which is nice because I am a hyper perfectionist. 

What would you say to someone who is currently in quarantine and thinking about picking up hand poking?

I say like, definitely go for it. Like I said before, tattooing isn't something that you should take lightly because it's both a psychological and physical change in your body and other people's bodies. But I think in quarantine, if you want to poke yourself, it's your body, so like go off. It's really fun to have control of your body and make something that you're proud of and happy with. I would say, though, maybe practice on something that is not skin first. The first thing I ever tattooed was a banana. I think it's kind of important to get the basic feel of it without permanent repercussions. Now's a great time to start. 

Tattoos mean so many different things to everybody. I don't really think that the first thing that you get tattooed has to be super meaningful. Some people approach it that way and that's fine, but in my experience, I find that the meaning is going to change and go away. Whereas if you just get something that's really beautiful, you're less likely to hate it later. Definitely don't try to imbue some meaning into it cause you think that it has to have meaning. I've gotten some tattoos that were a snap decision. I just walked in, knew that I was going to get something from somebody’s flash, without seeing it, and then saw a piece that looked cool and they're some of my favorite tattoos.

I just think that tattoos are super, super magical and there's no [other art form as immediately transformative]. This quarantine has sent me to hell and back again a hundred times because I just have to be with myself and my brain and my body all day, every single day and it's made me feel crazy. But being able to customize and have control over your own body is the most special and important thing that tattooers offer the world, in my opinion. 

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“BEING ABLE TO CUSTOMIZE AND HAVE CONTROL OVER YOUR OWN BODY IS…”

dreamy, magical, empowering

Featured Image Provided by Juliana Freschi

GIF Collage & Featured Collages by Ariana Garcia