Ukrainian Pop, Rap & Electro you will vibe to

Those who follow Eurovision probably know who was the winner of 2022 musical contest. It was Ukraine. Specifically, Kalush Orchestra with their song Stefania. Today, I want to introduce you to them, as well as many other bang-up modern artists from my home, Ukraine!

When asked what type of genres Ukrainian youth listens to, pop, rap, hip-hop, and dance (electronic) come to mind first. What do we usually sing about? Not money. Not b*tches. Not fame. It’s always something so simple and familiar, yet so complex and mystical. Oftentimes, it’s a bow to nature - we people work with land a lot. And have much greenery. It can be about the exploration of human love and attraction. It might also be stories based on memories, or the interplay between the known and the creative perception. So in one adjective, it’s cool.

Is this artistic outburst tied to the war? Unspeakably so. Even before, there was a fair number of Ukrainian creators exploring these subjects, but the war pushes almost everyone to express themselves creatively even more. What better way is there to let your emotions out?

So below, I am inviting you to a journey into the world of Ukrainian lyrical genius and musical aesthetics.

Rap & Pop

Stefania - the Eurovision winning song. Stefania is the lead vocalist’s mom’s name. The song is a call to appreciate a mother who, for some people, came to symbolize Ukraine during the war.

Jerry Heil’s songs are always extremely light, but the way she ties simple words together and turns them into fun, powerful, and rich lyrics is what makes her stand out.

Deeply melodic, light on the ears, the song turns a funny Ukrainian saying into a poetic self-reflection. By the way, I used to camp with the author back in high school, when we already knew she was gonna become a star:)

Electro & Rock

This artist takes a 19th century folk song into an electro club. The result?

Кольоровими фарбами is an ode to boundless possibilities to create art and “draw the world with colorful paints” while we are still alive.

Жальменіна - it’s as if this song is based on grandma’s memories of her love stories, very likely retold in her own archaic words. Very folk, very melodic, very electro.

Ocean Elzy - a top Ukrainian rock band which has been thriving since the 2000s. Attaching this song because you probably have come across it on TikTok, and I just want you to know what its origin is.

Phonks? Oh yeah, we got some, too.

For every song, I was more than tempted to add “BESTIES” or “LOVE THEM SO MUCH”, so leaving my love letter to each one here. The chosen list is just a crumble of a sweet pie of Ukrainian music, and I am strongly encouraging you to explore more or reach out to me for some recommendations!

Did you know? Ukrainian was voted to be the 3rd most beautiful language in the world in the 20th century.

P.S. the cool cover pic of my article is by Julia Zhuk, a Ukrainian digital artist whose Instagram is attached. I told you - a nation of creators.

Showing Your True Colors: Our Favorite Attendee Looks at MODA Nouveau

Showing Your True Colors: Best Dressed at 2022 MODA Nouveau

Like many of the attendees of Friday’s MODA Nouveau, we started our night FaceTiming each other in our respective dorm rooms which were littered with black leather jackets, belts, and blue mascara tubes, asking for opinions on what to wear to the show. Without any guidance or dress code, dressing for the fashion show felt like a raw exhibition of what your style was. No one could be too formal and as the guy wearing a literal trash bag proved, no one could be too casual (but let’s just say we didn’t ask for a picture of his outfit). It goes without saying that when you attend a fashion show there is some added pressure to look particularly good,  but what “good” means varies significantly from person to person as was demonstrated by the outfits we saw on the sidelines of the runway. To different people, it can mean a trendy low-waisted pair of jeans with smudged eyeliner or an all-red jumpsuit with a plunging neckline and a matching bold lip. We saw a huge variety of styles, personalities, and colors at the show, and here are some of our favorites.  

Pretty in Pink

Nouveau’s Neutrals

Monochrome Mayhem

Red and Black Duos

Our Pick!

We absolutely loved the green florals 60s vibe, and the baby blue shoes tied the whole look together. Definitely took home the crown for best dressed attendee.

Blogger Spotlight

We tried fitting the “Nouveau” theme of the night. Our take — bold neutrals with statement pieces.

Photographed, Edited, and Written by Maryam Shariff and Dana Christopher.

Thank You For the Music: Spring Awakening

Created by Alexandra Fiorentino-Swinton and a group of MODA Bloggers, Thank You For the Music started off as a Secret Santa style music exchange. Music connects us all, and what better way to peek inside someone’s heart than through our favorite tunes?

We each commented on a song that reminds us of what’s to come: springtime. We exchanged of songs with each other and allowed our fellow bloggers to write about what it evoked. After a tumultuous winter—literally and figuratively—it’s time to look forward.


Vivian Li’s pick: Mogli, “Wanderer”

It took me a while to find a song that perfectly embodies spring, so I started playing my entire Spotify library on shuffle and my roommates said no to every song (understandable because we only ever agree on LDR). Miraculously, we all picked this song before Mogli even started singing, so it was love at first chord. “Wanderer” is originally from my “morning ritual” playlist because I like how calm, hopeful, and free-spirited it feels. It has the power to cleanse my mind and get rid of negative thoughts, but I completely forgot about this song because I'm currently going through a hyperpop phase...

~

Oh the wind in my hair

It sings my song

To be a wanderer

And to go on

~

Anyways, I don't know how to write about music, but everything about this song captures the energy I want to have for spring. The wind will no longer be harsh and cold; it will caress my face with warmth and the air will smell fresh. I will listen to this song while walking down S. Woodlawn Ave on my way to school. It makes me hopeful thinking about how I can let go of past worries and live freely.

Nadaya’s Take:

I’m a visual person. As soon as I heard the opening chords of this song, I just had to see if there was a music video. And there was… kind of! A lyric video of Mogli’s expeditions: walking along the beach, sticking her head out of the passenger-side window of a car, being a wanderer.

Something about this brings me back to being thirteen, when all I wanted to do was travel. Does anybody else remember those instagram accounts, those travel bloggers who’d go anywhere all the time? It incites such a specific, youthful, spring-time nostalgia.

“To be a wanderer and go home…”

What is home, really? What homes can I make this spring? In the comfort of my bed, windows open to hear the birds chirping. On the slippery rocks of Lake Michigan. Underneath a bed of sand on Oak Street Beach. Among friends on the grass of the nearest park. Vivian said it best. There’s something about spring that makes you want to live freely and begin again.

“Making way to new beginnings…”


EJ Song’s pick: Dumbo Gets Mad, “Indian Food”

I discovered this song during finals week of fall as the weather was getting colder and colder. I was sitting in a Harper cubicle with friends, and as I sat there enjoying their company and listening to the psychedelic synths and chimes of the song, I remember seeing sunlight coming through the Harper windows and thinking how warm I felt in that moment.

This song uses a wide range of instruments to create this surreal, almost alien-sounding orchestra playing in the background. At one point, there’s an erhu solo - and I’m always skeptical of white people using Asian instruments in music, but I have to admit that this erhu feature bangs. I’m saving this song to enjoy for the spring when the sunlight comes back. A psychedelic rock song about good food and love - what more could you want?


Ivana’s Take:

I didn’t recognize the song or the artist when this was recommended to me, so I genuinely could not predict what I would be in for, other than maybe indie song, but I was pleasantly surprised by what it was. In seasonal terms, this song sounds to me like that hazy convergence of spring and summer towards the end of the school year. It reminds me of car rides with people you love, as the sun sets and bathes the skyline in gold.

I was especially pleased by the erhu solo featured at the bridge of the song as the singer’s voice fades in the background, in a delightful synthesis of psychedelic rock sounds and an Asian instrument in a way I haven’t often heard in Western music. And, it scratches my brain just right. Do yourself a favor and add this song to your playlist.


Kája Muchová’s pick: The Avalanches, “Since I Left You”

The first time I heard this song, was two years ago, the start of spring, when covid was just a temporary excuse to stay at home and make whipped coffee. During that time, I loved to go on long walks around my house, listening to different artists and albums. This song really caught my attention. I was certain I never heard it before, but it also seemed so familiar.

With that in my mind I proceeded to listen to the entire album, conveniently named “Since I Left You”, immersing myself into an incredible music experience. Every song fluently followed the next—I had no idea when one ended and the other began. This for me was one of the most memorable music experiences and so I think it is only fair to recommend the first song that started it all.

Honestly though, I think everyone should listen to the whole album. It will certainly give you a very unique, transformative and refreshing experience, something that all of us really need after an exhausting and tiring winter.

Vivian’s Take:

Let me begin by saying I LOVE this song and have been listening to it nonstop. It makes me nervous writing about such a timeless classic, but I will try my best. The song feels like a conversation with someone intimate. It sounds poignant but hopeful. The vocals are simple but leaves a strong impression, and I can say without complain that it has been stuck in my head for the past month. Perhaps what is so powerful about the song is how universal the feeling can be. It can be letting go of a bad relationship, a toxic friendship, or a stressful obligation. Once you let go, you realize there is so much happiness around you.

Since I left you, I found the world so new.

I can even say the same to Chicago winter, because I absolutely hate it but would not trade it for anything in retrospect. How do we appreciate the warm sunlight and bird songs of spring without the harshness of winter? One time I found somebody’s handwriting at a corner booth in Medici’s, scribbled on aged wood with black marker: se faire printemps, c’est prendre le risque de l’hiver. I never bothered to look up where it comes from but the quote stuck with me, and turns out it is Antoine de Saint-Exupéry!


Ivana Del Valle’s pick: Circo and iLe, “Me Saben a Miel”

Ivana’s Take:

Chicago is extremely different from the tropical island of Puerto Rico I grew up in, and moving here for college honestly made me a little scared that I would lose my culture, since, for me, a lot of it comes from casual interactions with it— the traditional music played in local stores, the food I ate at home, the slang, even the way people dress and greet each other. I wanted to stay in touch with home in simple ways that didn’t feel forced, and one of those ways was listening to local Puerto Rican artists, such as iLe. The music iLe composes is deeply poetic, political, bittersweet, and unapologetically Puerto Rican, adding modern spins on more traditional genres that are often overshadowed by reggaeton, such as bomba, plena, salsa, and bolero.

“Me Saben a Miel” is originally from the Puerto Rican band, Circo, but was recently re-released featuring iLe as the lead vocals. The song sounds like warm, spring evenings spent in the mountain countryside back home, rocking in a hammock and joined by the sweet chirping of coquís. iLe’s voice beautifully flows in tandem with the guitar and saxophone instrumentals in a way that almost feels like from the nostalgic past, and, as the name implies, certainly “sounds” like honey.

I would definitely recommend this song as a starting point to anyone interested in exploring different Latin/Puerto Rican music genres, or anyone simply wanting to listen to something new.

Kaja’s Take:

Reading the title “Me Saben a Miel” I did not know what to expect because I realized that I don’t listen to a lot of Puerto Rican music. The last Puerto Rican song I heard was in my Spanish class in high school and it didn’t really grab my attention.

However, right when I pressed play to listen to this song, I was surprised by how much it matched my current music taste. In fact, its intro reminded me of my favorite band Crumb. However, I have to note that “Me Saben a Miel” is certainly a happier version of anything I would listen to from Crumb but despite that it gives me the same feeling of calm and dreamy happiness.

The guitar backdrop music with layered vocals screams spring which I know might sound very vague but there is no other way to describe it. You will understand when you listen to it, which you certainly should!


Nadaya Davis’ pick: Blood Orange, “Saint”

Blood Orange always makes me feel spring in living color, and I think the reason why is quite simple—Dev Hynes is a musical genius. The song is a combination of sweet, choral-like vocals and the airiest of instrumentals, the musical personification of an open window on a beautiful, city afternoon.

The song points towards a return to sainthood, a return to a place of virtue, for brown and black youth in particular. The music video, too, reflects on what sanctuary can be. In Hynes’ case, he has a jam session in his studio while his people exist besides him—resting, smoking, laughing, eating, and just being together.

I’ve often caught myself wishing Hynes’ music could be the score of my own life; it’s nostalgic and familiar, stirring up a cosmic force inside of me that breathes, let’s live! This Spring, I’m hoping to grant myself the pleasure of leisure, of existing without burdens.

EJ’s Take:

Starting with the smooth sound of the saxophone, this song is filled with soothing but vibrant tones and energy. A lot of the instruments featured in the song, like the sax, cello, and keyboard, make the sound feel classic and timeless; the brass also reminds me a lot of 90s R&B.

A huge part of this song is a celebration of blackness - the chorus, “Your skin’s a flag that shines for us all/You said it before/The brown that shines/And lights your darkest thoughts”, speaks to this in such a poetic way. I wasn’t really paying attention to the lyrics the first couple times I listened to it, but they added so much more depth to the song.

And Nadaya said it best - the song and music video perfectly incapsulates the sense of community and compassion that come together with music, company, and good spirits. Saint is perfect for so many different moods - it has the liveliness to get you through the worst, grimiest p-sets, the calmness for a quiet moment of relaxation, the energy to blast on your speaker while you sit with friends on the quad.

Structure, Silhouette, and the Body of My Dreams

 

I found my dream shirt on TikTok the other day. Let’s just cut to the chase.

I don’t follow a ton of fashion accounts on TikTok—it tends to get a bit repetitive around there, all screen printed blanks and yo ID on pants? comments. That last part may be a bit hypocritical coming from me, someone who scoured the internet to find one specific shirt. I think my algorithm is screwed. 

Anyways, Carla Rockmore.

@carlarockmore: Intellectual Architect or Mall Goth?

I first encountered her on Twitter, a quote tweet of her rocking a vintage quilted dress she found in Amsterdam whose near clone eventually made its way down the Gucci runway. The quote tweet is long lost in the world of that little blue app, but it said something along the lines of, “She never misses!”

Though her closet may be drastically different from mine, I live for the eclectic. As she styled it, just a few accessories, a pair of chartreuse pumps, and a turquoise bag, she made the briefest of commentaries on how creatives absorb what’s around them—knowingly or not. I had to see more.

The shirt. In a styling video that ventured from mall goth to architect-chic, she donned the most elevated of white button-ups: classic collar and clear buttons with a side of flouncy, loosely ruffled asymmetry to the point of cape-adjacency. My thumbs ran to the comments.

I hadn’t heard of palmer//harding. The about section of the website tells me that founders Levi Palmer and Matthew Harding are two sides of the same coin, designers who find electricity in the threshold between opposites:

masculine // feminine, hard // soft, structured // fluid

I kept eyeing the way the front cut of the shirt fell right at Carla’s waist. The way the back was just a touch from brushing the ground. The way it’d move as she’d move. Have you ever worn a garment that changed you? 

Robert Geller Linen Tee in Black

My favorite piece in my closet is a Robert Geller long-sleeve tee I found at my job, second-hand. The linen knit makes it easy, breezy, and slightly sheer, and the inconspicuous raw hem detailing that lies an inch under the collar brings attention to the neck.

It’s a few sizes too big for me, the neckline exposing just the right amount of collar bone while the sleeve-length swathes my hands in a ridiculous amount of sweater-paw action. In the cool way.

It lands right above my knees in dress-like fashion, and in the right light you can see everything underneath. It’s midnight black. It’s menswear cut straight so the fabric moves and gathers on top of even a slightly curved waist.

What I mean is that it both cloaks and exposes me in all the ways I want it to. It begs questions. Are you close enough to see the details? Are you in the right light? What would you see if you got even closer?

It’s just a black tee shirt.

But detail is sensual. Silhouette is sexy. It can create a new body. 

I like my body most in that shirt, and I’ll wear it until it dies. Whichever comes first.

The exact shirt Carla donned in her video doesn’t exist on the palmer//harding site. The closest runner-up is the JOY LONG shirt, retailing at $476. I think the fact that such a similar version exists hurts more than not being able to find it at all.

palmer//harding

joy long shirt

The back of the JOY LONG shirt stops behind the knees of the model in a way that feels intentional, not something chalked up to sizing differences. The buttons are brown, not clear, and seems to stop at the soft tissue right below the sternum rather than the waist. I know these things because I’ve studied Carla’s TikTok religiously. Even if I found her version, I’d never be able to afford it. I’m sure a dupe exists elsewhere. 

Until I find one, I’ll keep imagining myself in it, the drape and sheer of the poplin in constant motion, occasionally gleaming. I’ll dream of it.


Featured image via the palmer//harding website.

 

MODA Blog Winter Favorites

Welcome to MODA Blog Favorites! This is our series where MODA Bloggers, photographers and editors let you know what we’re loving! From binge-worthy series, to our favorite books to some Holy Grail skincare products, the team wishes you all a safe, and healthy spring quarter. Here’s what the team is loving, hopefully bringing you a dosage of inspiration!


Nadaya

Paco Rabanne, Phantom

So, this technically isn’t my cologne. I got it as a gift for my best friend, and since I’m with them nearly 24/7 (roommate privileges) I’m always getting the essence. Not cheap, but I saved up and I love my friends.

I ran out of my own personal favorite fragrance and I’ve been way too lazy to re-up, so I’m living vicariously through them. I’m super sensitive to colognes & perfumes, but this one is creamy, woody, and earthy in all the right ways. Cozying-up-by-the-fire type things, perfect for the colder months.

Aashana

The Ordinary

Simple, effective, and looks great on your dresser! This is the first time I’ve had an actual AM/PM skincare routine, and it’s been such a wonderful winding down act of self care. The Ordinary is incredible because you can mix and match your own routine, and there’s tons of websites and blogs to help you do it. Plus, super pocket friendly––and who doesn’t love cheap things?

Matthew Sumera

Telfar Duffle (small)

The perfect bag. The perfect size. My go to going out bag. It can hold everything I need— my vape, poppers, and crystals.

Vivian

Acne Studio Scarf

I am not good at dressing for Chicago winter, but having a big, warm, colorful scarf like this changed my fashion game because I am no longer shivering in the wind. Purple is my favorite color and this pattern goes with most of my wardrobe. Even my lazy day sweatsuits look cute after I put this on!

sample(d) I: Moon Men pt. 2

… on the same note of an ethereal space aesthetic. I’ve made the unusual pairing in my mind between “moon river” and “rocketman” (by E. John which he himself even sampled for “Cold Heart” feat. Dua Lipa). On a more tragic note, the notion of space could mean something entirely unattainable. Here’s my version of rocketman…

“mars ain’t no place to raise your kids” , photo by Katarina Grozdanic

Rocket Man (I think it’s going to be a long time)

link

rocketman

Promise you’ll take me to the moon

fingers crossed over his chest 

and life was at its best 

back then 

when 

clouds were but kingdoms unexplored

and dreams were alive 

breathing

beckoning 

… 

Somehow he knew —even then— they were to die very soon 

that the path of the greatest dreams were those 

that led to a graveyard 

No one can see

but you 

and you’ll visit them frequently

You’ll see a time capsule of every petaled memory 

      encased in settled dust 

The greatest ones are buried in glass 

too precious to visit 

to think about 

But

The greatest ones are just that… …dreams

that have long died at 2:13 am 

When the moon was high 

And you could look at it every night

reminding your eyes

they’re not lying to you 

that you could go Anywhere; be Anything

But life has now buried your feet in the ground 

with one eye on the sky 

and the rocketman 

…once breathing 

…once beckoning 

has now died

Stay tuned for many more sample(d) installments to come.

‘til the next installment, I’m going to keep basking in the magic of lyrics and storytelling and I hope you do too.

All of my lyrical inspiration for this first installment (Moon Men): moon river by Audrey Hepburn and more, Rocket Man by Elton John, Halley’s Comet by Billie Eilish, illicit Affairs and this is me trying by Taylor Swift, When we were young by Adele Adkins, “Bing Bong” from Pixar’s Inside out, and many many more…

Winter Quarter... I'm So Done With You: A MODA Blog Playlist

Winter quarter, winter quarter. Where do we begin?

We’ll let the music speak for itself. Check out some tunes curated by MODA Blog to wrap up the quarter—we’re nostalgic, we’re gloomy, we’re over it, we’re understanding ourselves, we’re pumped, and we’re happy we made it.

Nadaya

Dreamer Isioma - I’m So Done With You

Winter quarter isn’t the one who got away: it’s the one you want to forget. I’ve been playing Isioma’s Goodnight Dreamer since its release in late February, and while the songs themselves instill some longing for the spring and summer, this track is just so over it. So am I.

Life don't treat me right
So I go out every night
Dirty dancing like the 80s…

Aashana

SAINt JHN - Sucks To Be You

The album is titled “while the world was burning,” but my world was freezing. Just started listening to SAINt JHN at the start of this quarter and this is now my favorite PR song at the gym.

“She said she believed in me just keep on goin',” from me, to me. We made it!

Wonyoung

James Blake - “Meet You In The Maze”

Sometimes, one’s passion can become all-consuming to the point that one begins to lose sight of oneself and reality as a whole. As Blake sings, “From November through 'til now,” I also had found myself in a “maze” of my own creation –– no longer pursuing my art, but instead becoming the pursued. In those times, it’s good to remind oneself that such endeavors are means to an end –– that end being the derivation of pleasure and excitement in my life and the lives of those around me.

BROCKHAMPTON - “BLEACH”

Perhaps I can owe the recent renaissance this overplayed 2017 song has had in my playlists to the comfort bred by its familiarity and its nostalgic “emo high school boy” charm. Am I listening to “BLEACH” alone at midnight because I too “feel like a monster, feel like a deadhead zombie”? Or am I just listening to it because I’m still in denial of the fact that BROCKHAMPTON is going to break up after Coachella? The world may never know.

Elliott Smith - “Angeles”

Apparently it’s now cool to listen to Elliott Smith. At least according to the trendy TikTok e-people who probably also just discovered “Here Comes The Sun” last week, and Morrissey the week before that. As somebody who has been listening to him from a young age, I feel foolishly possessive of Smith, and what better way to gatekeep than re-listen to his whole catalog so that I can tell everyone that I was “not like other girls” before they were?

Anna

Red House Painters - “Medicine Bottle”

Quintessentially representing winter quarter, this song is gloomy, emotional, and way too long. This slowcore ballad clocking in at 9 minutes and 49 seconds perfectly accompanied my afternoons spent wallowing on my window sill watching the snow.

The Rolling Stones - “You Can’t Always Get What You Want”

This song stood by me to pick myself up from winter moodiness. Even though I was desperate for sunshine, you’re right, Mick Jagger. I can’t always get what I want.

Twin Peaks - “Blue Coupe”

This past winter quarter was also filled with nostalgia and hope for me. The sweet indie sounds of Chicago’s own Twin Peaks often reminded me of my family and friends back home and inspired me to look forward to reuniting with them.

Aurelia

girl in red - “dead girl in the pool.

The perfect mix of catchy but also slightly sardonic, this song really fits the laid back and moody vibe of Winter Quarter. It got me through a lot of winter quarter sadness and is perfect to play in the background.

CORPSE- “agoraphobic”

Unlike his other songs, agoraphobic offers a soft lo-fi beat perfect to vibe to while writing your essays or cracking down on a p-set.

sample(d) I: Moon Men pt. 1

“The reader is the space on which all the quotations that make up a writing are inscribed without any of them being lost; a text's unity lies not in its origin but in its destination.” 

-Roland Barthes, The Death of the Author 


The beauty of music — to me — is within the lyrics. But would this mean that the magic of songs lie within the songwriter? I’d beg to differ. The true power of a song — of a chorus or a bridge or a hook— lies within the listener. More specifically, how listeners can actively take apart lyrics and interlace a chorus, a hook, or a bridge into a tapestry of their own creation. It is the way a listener weaves their own lived experiences, imagination, and imagery to songs that make it last; make it mean something. This poem-based series is my way of exemplifying how magical songs are to me. 

I’d like to invite you to bask in the magic too… 


Sample(d) I: Moon Men

“two drifters off to see the world”


In this first installment, I “sample” a myriad of artists but primarily the various artists that have covered the iconic song “moon river” (popularized by Audrey Hepburn’s version in “Breakfast at Tiffany’s).

moon river

from breakfast at tiffany’s and beyond

Moon river, wider than a mile

I'm crossing you in style someday

Oh, dream maker

You heartbreaker

Wherever you're going I'm going your way

Two drifters off to see the world

There's such a lot of world to see

We're after the same rainbow's end

Waiting round the bend

My huckleberry friend

Moon river and me” 

-Performed by Audrey Hepburn, and Frank Sinatra, and Frank Ocean… 

… my turn-ish


moon landing

A love on a lie

is a castle on a glass cloud 

but not this love 

for it is different 

As if here on worn-in sheets under dim motel lighting

On a cross-bred cocaine high  

Nothing else matters 


And as your body curves into mine 

you confess, “this love is made of something out of this world”                                                         

— something I already know

… 

Let the crashing comets collide against the earth

Let it catapult me into the clouds

   into space 

So far from earth

So far from matter

Where I can lay in moon dust

with you forever

Where I can lay here in moon dust 

with you forever

A future with you

is a future worth dreaming of

A love on a lie

is a love good enough

for me

… 

And as the stars in your eyes dim into a deep sleep 

I’m mesmerized that somehow I’ve landed you 

and

I solemnly swear 

a secret

“I promise you 

I’ll stay here forever

and whatever comes after 

doesn’t matter”


Check out part 2 to this series debut…

A Reluctant Criticism of Spider-Man: No Way Home

It’s been five years now since Tom Holland’s first appearance in Captain America: Civil War as web-slinging teenager Peter Parker, a down-on-his-luck superpowered teenager idolizing the larger-than-life Avengers and trying to make a difference protecting his community. By now, Spider-Man’s most recent cinematic reincarnation is a worldwide sensation, a statement only made more true by the most recent blockbuster success of No Way Home. The success of the movie is deserved— the fast-paced action, gorgeous (if heavily computer-generated) cinematography, satisfyingly fleshed-out side characters, and the “surprise” appearance and instantly hilarious camaraderie of Tobey Macguire and Andrew Garfield as alternate universe Spider-Men make this an incredibly enjoyable film. Unfortunately, though, the movie falls short in one respect— Peter Parker himself. For even in the midst of the fun and the spectacle of the film, something rings false. The discrepancy is slight, but glaring, and gradually it becomes increasingly clear that the writers have abandoned the development of the protagonist they began to build five years ago. By the end of the film it is painfully obvious: Spider-Man: No Way Home has let its titular character down. 

To see how this happens, it is perhaps worth revisiting Peter’s first appearance in a solo movie— 2017’s Spider-Man: Homecoming. In this origin story, the protagonist was simply Peter Parker from Queens, a down-on-his-luck superpowered teenager returning home from an unexpected trip to Germany, idolizing the larger-than-life Avengers he had just brushed shoulders with and now bursting with a desire to make a real difference protecting the world, just as his heroes did. He was enthusiastic, but inexperienced and awkward, which led to ineffectiveness and sometimes to him doing more harm than good. By the end of that movie, he had learned through experience the indisputable importance of experience in the process of realizing good intentions. This newfound maturity was shown clearly when at the end of the film, he walked away from the offer to join the Avengers because he realized that at that point in his life, he wasn’t ready. 

This maturity carried over into the next film, when we saw Peter Parker dealing with grief. He journeyed to space to fight against Thanos with the other Avengers, lost five years of his life because of it, and in Far From Home, we saw him reeling after the death of his mentor, Tony Stark. This added a new layer of challenge to the maturity he has won; now, he found himself dealing with a new kind of vulnerability, and it was one that caused him to doubt himself and left him open to be manipulated by the movie’s central villain, con man Mysterio who used Peter’s feelings of guilt, regret, and inadequacy to convince him to hand over Tony Stark’s legacy. This one honest mistake nearly destroyed the world, and so Peter had to learn quickly to trust what he knew to be true in the face of skilled manipulation and gaslighting. This incredibly necessary self-assurance was hard-won as Peter realized through painful mistakes that he has to trust his own hard-earned abilities and his strongest relationships in the face of manipulation and gaslighting if he wants to succeed. It’s a powerful message, and he finally triumphed as he learned to utilize his intuition and be thoughtful, intentional, and selective about what— and who— he allows to sway his actions and beliefs. 

This brings us to the beginning of the most recent film, No Way Home. By now, the Peter Parker we see onscreen has come a long way from the first time we met him. He knows the world is infinitely more complicated than any one person can know, but he deeply respects its complexity. He knows that his best assets are the abilities and knowledge that he has fought hard to win, and he trusts these things thoroughly. He is no longer naive, overconfident, or easily misled, and he understands that actions can have incredibly heavy consequences. Peter Parker has grown immensely from the beginning of his storyline. He is more than competent now; he is cautious and aware, both of his surroundings and of the weight attached to any course of action he can choose. 

It is jarring, then, that the entirety of No Way Home is built around Peter Parker making a rash decision without attempting to understand the consequences. Barring the unlikeliness of Doctor Strange complying, it is inconsistent that Peter would request and condone the rewriting of the memory of the universe to correct his mistake. The excuse the movie offers is that he was desperate; he was the reason his best friends had not gotten into college, and the guilt pushed him to act rashly— an excuse that might work had the previous movie not been centered around Peter learning to act rationally despite the pressures of guilt. Furthermore, a student as logical, analytical, and intelligent as Peter is shown to be would likely have familiarized himself enough with the admissions process to realize that a person can, in fact, apply to college more than once, can transfer from one college to another, and can contact admissions officers about extenuating circumstances. Finally, and most importantly, the sequence of events we are presented with is fundamentally nonsensical. However poignant the effects of desperation may be, it is inherently out of character for Peter Parker to make an uninformed, selfish decision when the entirety of his character arc over the last five years has been carefully tailored to establish that he is neither uninformed nor selfish. Spider-Man is a deeply caring individual, and he possesses a hard-won maturity. It makes no sense for him to reach for a quick fix, and it makes even less sense for him to gamble the fate of the multiverse over a college acceptance letter. 

This sudden abandonment of a thoughtfully-crafted character arc reflects a growing trend in the MCU— the tendency to ignore what they have established, whether in their universe or in their characters, in order to usher the world forward into the next “phase”. We are now, according to Marvel’s outline, in the fourth phase, which includes WandaVision, Loki, Shang-Chi and the Legend of the Ten Rings, Eternals, and several other shows and movies yet to come. In almost all of these, Marvel reaches for the quick fix— in WandaVision, Wanda’s unethical actions are excused as the fault of a surprise villain who is then immediately disposed of; in Loki, an interesting attempt at expanding the rules of the universe ends up a nonsensical mess that was the fault of a villain who was, again, immediately disposed of; in Shang-Chi, the characters’ development is handled brilliantly, but this is allowed very little consequence in the grander scheme of things; in Eternals, not a single person is more than a caricature, and they act not as people but as plot devices fighting yet another computer-generated and oddly-named villain who conveniently disappears at the end of the movie. None of these films or series are inherently at fault for this— or rather, they wouldn’t be if they existed in a vacuum as standalone action movies. But the fact is that they don’t; each installment is meant to play into the larger story of the MCU. That can’t happen if every character’s development starts from ground zero whenever the plot requires it. No Way Home is an especially striking and worrying example, because so much effort was put into the development of the character’s motivations over the course of the previous films, and regardless, this development was so quickly abandoned. The lack of hesitation that Marvel displays when cracking the structure they have established in favor of momentary plot convenience shows an unsettling willingness to sacrifice the universe they have spent decades building in exchange for fleeting thrills. 

Not all of this, of course, is the fault of No Way Home. Overall, this film was well-made, artful and entertaining. It was full of brilliant choices— the subversion of the expected outcome when MJ fell and was caught by Andrew Garfield, and was more rattled by his tearful reaction than the fall itself, was artfully done. Peter’s loss of his friends and his selfless decision to let them forget him was a striking touch. The brotherhood, confusion, and mutual support offered between the three versions of Spider-Man was hilarious and incredibly gratifying, and the continuation of the twists on home as a theme was well-crafted. The movie certainly has strengths on its own and in relation to its audience, and it’s enjoyable to watch. But on a larger scale, a narrative universe that defies its own foundations isn’t one that lasts, and if the MCU is going to attack one of the fundamental pillars of storytelling— character development— they should form a pretty ironclad plan for what to replace it with. Spider-Man: No Way Home didn’t, and that’s why, as entertaining as it was, it ultimately fell flat. I hope that the writers and directors find a way to return to or substitute for this, or the future of Marvel’s storytelling runs the risk of becoming fragmented— or, in the worst-case scenario, directionless entirely. 

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"That's SO 2nd Century B.C.E."

 

lol it actually is cultural appropriation. But let me be clear: It’s not the usage of the word, it’s the fact that people aren’t even aware of its history that makes it cultural appropriation.

The first time an Instagram Reel popped up on my feed talking about manifestation, I straight up ignored it, Here we go. Another “spiritual” fad for TikTok to eat up. Unsurprisingly, I was right. ManifestationTok is a real thing:

Forgive me for not actually using TikTok, it’s banned in my country. This was the second-best option.

Forgive me for not actually using TikTok, it’s banned in my country. This was the second-best option.

Manifestation is not unheard about; actually, according to OprahDaily, it was popularized by the best-selling 2006 novel, The Secret, by Rhonda Byrne––a white, Australian author. (You might think, Why was the last detail necessary? I’ll get to it.) Of course, she’s not been the only one; in fact, she was merely the kick-starter. Here’s the Goodreads recommendation list for books about manifestation:

So, someone wrote a book about something and it blew up; that’s not unusual. Absolutely, it isn’t. If you deep dive into manifestation, you’ll hear about something called the 3-6-9 method; it applies to anything you’re trying to “manifest.” You would say a person’s name 3 times, recite your intentions for them 6 times, and say what you would say to them 9 times; or, you journal 3 times in the morning, 6 times during the day, 9 times before bed; or, you repeat your affirmations 3 times in the morning, 6 times during the day, 9 times before bed. You get it; 3-6-9 are the universe’s greatest numbers, blah blah blah. Don’t take it from me, actually, take it from the experts: The Manifestation Collective, whom you would trust to be a reliable source. 

And what does ye wise old one say?

“The 369 manifestation method was one of the first exercises I discovered when I initially came across the law of attraction back in 2016. But before we move into how to use this technique to manifest, can I interest you in a little history lesson to begin? Now, where are my glasses…
Let me introduce Serbian-American inventor, Nikola Tesla. Tesla, famed for not only his inventions such as the remote control and the Tesla coil but also his spiritual enlightenment, noted the numbers 3, 6 and 9 as being ‘divine numbers’ and was quoted saying; ‘If you knew the magnificent of the numbers 3, 6 and 9, you have the key to the universe.’”
— The Manifestation Collective, "How To Do The 369 Manifestation Method"

Pardon my French, but that’s bullshit. Actually, Tesla brought the idea of 3-6-9 to the Western world from Swami Vivekananda, the first in a succession of yogis who brought Vedic philosophy and religion to the West. 

In that vein, most “spirituality” is actually just white-washed Hinduism, or Buddhism, or Jainism. And manifestation is nothing other than one more Eastern practice that has been mislabelled and made mainstream by Western social media; the list itself is a topic for a whole different article, but the big ones include yoga, the third eye, chakras, and of course, “chai tea”––which literally translates to “tea tea.” (Thanks, Starbucks.) 

Unfortunately, this phenomenon does not apply only to Hindu or Indian practices; reciting the list of things that are now mainstream that were once sacred socio-cultural practices to many communities is a book of its own. 

But what really is cultural appropriation? 

To clear this up: neither your TikToks, nor your actual manifestation practices are exactly cultural appropriation. It is your lack of knowledge and your inability to admit, or ignorance to find out, the actual origins of the content you put out there. Cultural appreciation, which is when you seek to learn from and understand another culture while respecting their beliefs, differs from cultural appropriation in that the latter involves cherry-picking ideas from different cultures without respecting the beliefs behind them or where they came from. And that is exactly what this obsession with manifestation is––and as Indian, (somewhat) Hindu, I feel justified to call it out. 

 Manifestation is based on the “Law of Attraction,” which was said to be penned down by William Walker Atkinson in 1906. The real origins, however, are older than Atkinson by about 4,000 years––long enough for there not to be a debate. First mentioned in the Upanishads, a subcategory of the Vedas––a collection of the sacred texts of Vedic practices––the idea of manifestation has been written about extensively:

That person, who desires for objects of pleasures, by contemplating on their properties, gets born, along with his desires, among those objects of pleasures.
— Translation from Mundaka Upanishad, Mundakopanishad 3.2.3
From it the universe comes forth, in it the universe merges and in it the universe breathes. Therefore a man should meditate on Brahman with a calm mind. Now, verily, a man consists of will. As he wills in this world, so does he become when he has departed hence. Let him with this knowledge in mind form his wit. 
— Translation from Chandogya Upanishad
Whatever destinations and objects of pleasures, the man, whose mind is free from impurities, he obtains those destinations and those objects of pleasures.
— Translation from Mundaka Upanishad, Mundakopanishad 3.1.10

Go through all the articles on the first page of Google that comes up when you search “manifestation,” and tell me if you can find those quotes in any of them. If anything, you’ll rarely see a mention of either Hinduism, Jainism, or Buddhism; to these (poorly researched) authors, manifestation is a completely Western thing. 

Because, of course, why would it not be? When Hindus or other Eastern religions practice the same thing, they are looked at fearfully, branded as “demonic.” But when Blair on TikTok posts a 30-second reel in which she shows you how to manifest anything you want––love, money, a fat ass, you name it––manifestation is now intriguing, appreciable, and very trendy.

Go through the Goodreads list too, do you see any non-white names? I’m not accusing any of those authors of bad research; or at least not yet, I haven’t read any of those books. But it’s interesting to note that the most famous books about an ancient Eastern spiritual practice are all written by non-Eastern––or non-Hindu, non-Buddhist, non-Jain (sounding)––people.

If you read this and your first reaction is to be offended, I understand. But take a step back and notice: this is not about you––unless you’re one of those people on TikTok posting uninformed manifestation videos, then this is definitely about you. No one is denying your right and ability to practice parts of our culture––yes, even the ones we are mocked for––but we’re asking you to learn what you’re talking about. Appreciate it more. Recognize its roots. And then, manifest all you want. 

The funny thing? Manifestation is not a foolproof strategy to get anything and everything you want. This whitewashed trend of asking the universe for something and getting it, that’s not real manifestation. What is it really? Well, that’s a topic for another discussion.


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ThisIsNotSpam: Exploring Collaging and its History

 

To: You

Cc: MODA

Subject: Collaging


Dear readers,

Today, we are going to explore collaging, the art style that has consumed me for the past few months. I could talk about the pieces that inspire me and spark interest for days, but for now, I’ll just give you an elaborate gist (is that an oxymoron?) in hopes that you can at least gather some useful information. This can be anything from inspiration for creating, as collaging encourages me to do, or just the ability to become more observant when viewing art.

I never paid any attention to collaging myself until the beginning of last quarter when a good friend of mine made me two collages for my birthday. This led me down a whimsical rabbit hole that irked me learn more, and lucky enough when I saw that a collage class was offered last quarter I enrolled, no questions asked. So, this article right here is a giant soup, combining what I learned in class with my own research.

You may be wondering what exactly collaging is considered and how we can define it. Well, collaging includes but is not limited to: cutting and pasting, editing, quoting, sampling, mixing, and pretty much any sort of combining, which doesn’t need to be physical— my answer: what isn’t collaging?

Pablo Picasso, Le joueur de guitarre (Guitar player), 1910

Pablo Picasso, Le joueur de guitarre (Guitar player), 1910

Collaging began as a subcategory of cubism, mainly influenced by Pablo Picasso (note: this has been my fun fact this week!) Through art, he combined and disassembled day-to-day, recognizable figures into ways that would play with how our eyes make out images. In so many pieces, we see his obsession with the figure of a guitar and how he carefully selects slivers of its parts to paint, all interacting with each other in unique and confusing ways. For instance, Pablo Picasso’s Guitar Player, as seen below, re-figures a guitar in a way that would be considered ambitious since you can barely even tell there is a guitar there. A sneaking suspicion that an instrument is visible builds up with clues like the color of the painting, the title, and some curves here and there, which gives us a sense of the guitar’s presence. 

In the early 1900s, strange arrangements of figures in paintings become popular. They are similar to collating but exist in a single medium, completely flat. It’s as if a smashed guitar was recreated in strokes of oil paint. It’s a method that shifted surrealism into a multi-media genre, and although it’s only slightly dipping its toes into the sea that is collaging, these skills being developed by venturing artists were essential for this category of art.

Picasso was already extremely comfortable with the art of masquerading, of transforming. It was around 1912 that he began adding texture to these pieces, slowly but surely incorporating items like wooden pieces that added texture to painted guitars, music sheets peeking through the background of otherwise flat paintings, and the usage of wallpaper instead of solely relying on painted base layers. Soon he would inspire other artists to enrich the surface of the canvas using three-dimensional elements.

It was the group of artists known as the Futurists, who were most active between 1909 and 1918, that stepped into the next level of uniting materials. They began collaging entire pages rather than considering pasted elements minor parts of their creations.

My favorite example is Carlo Carrá’s Interventionist demonstration, which is composed of phrases and radical ideas relating to civilians’ perspective of World War I. He used cutouts from newspapers and magazines, enclosing them all in a looping spiral: a mind churning and slightly haunting arrangement.

This led right into the Dadaist movement during the early 1930s, which was made up of artists who specifically wanted to target media’s effect on society. They thought that the images presented to the public were toxic to our behavior of constantly participating in capitalist movements. Creators like Hannah Höch, Hugo Ball, John Heartfield, and Tristan Tzara wanted to go against some generally accepted ideas that were more effective than the bourgeois, political nonsense, and were able to alter an image’s original destination to relay strong messages. One of the most known pieces of these anti-art movements is John Heartfield’s 1932 Adolf the superman: Swallows gold and spouts junk. This piece makes fun of Adolf Hitler, showing an x-ray image of a stomach full of gold and a swastika replacing his heart.

Then came the Surrealist movement, where the obsession with the subconscious and Freudian studies led artists to wander into the crazy world of dreams. Some of these artists include Salvador Dalí, Max Ernst, and Joan Miró. Pretty much all surrealists experimented with collaging—metamorphosing body parts and objects into strange creatures, including sexual fantasies. With every year, more combining of leaflets, posters, advertisements, and media gave way to a nonsensical world of art that caused viewers to be drawn to the madness embedded within collaging.

Pop Art is the movement that emerged in the mid to late 1950s, where its artists celebrated mass culture rather than revolting against it. These artists built a bridge between what was considered exclusive, professional art, and kitsch art, a push for a more inclusive system for anyone to participate in. Here, we see a jump from using somewhat identifiable images in portions of the creator’s work to famous icons and brands taking over entire pieces. In James Rosenquist’s work, the 35th president of the United States is depicted in an oil painting. Cinema, advertisement, newspaper, television, and comics were frequently reintegrated into creative projects.

Since media itself was utilized to be fed back into its creation, Pop Art was huge for emerging artists who demonstrated their ability to reinvent common images in refreshing ways, ways that popped. Jean-Michel Basquiat and Andy Warhol were extremely talented creators who played with collaging’s mediums and helped drive the next wave of artists to create more playful masterpieces. They even collaborated before Basquiat’s death, managing to push numerous boundaries in a short period of time and making people question what art is “supposed to look like” and who can make it—questions we continue to ask today.

Today it’s hard to distinguish between collaging that is purely for aesthetic value and art that communicates a message, especially since we have access to an infinite number of mediums and materials to combine together. Collage’s development continues to define political movements, as it is an ever-expanding genre that uses current events to relay an artistic vision. For viewers, this is a unique experience that can’t be found among other one-dimensional creations. This is precisely what fascinates me about collaging, and I hope it inspires you to continue to delve deep into the art you are passionate about. 

Best,

Nicole


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Sometimes Better is Everything

 

I try not to look at my phone first thing in the morning. If I’ve learned anything from internet personality Gabi Abrão of @sighswoon on Instagram, it’s how to wake up. 

First, understand you are awake. You can’t open your eyes first thing in the morning and bargain with whether you are awake or not. Awakeness and awareness are not meant to be decisions, and as I enter that state of consciousness from the warm planet that is my bed, contemplations chase each other across the space of my mind. 

Should I snooze the alarm? Am I really ready to get up, now? God, I want to go back to sleep.

No, I’m awake. Get up and go do something. The buzz words these days are grounding, spiritual, peaceful, calming, mindful. Make your morning any of those adjectives. 

Second, third, fourth, last, whatever, the list goes on. But the step after waking up is to remember you exist, and then do something about it. Stretch, drink water, put on music, stimulate. Make your ritual morning coffee and hold the mug between your hands as you stare out the window, letting the sun hit your face. Rinse the spinach, chop the tomatoes, and whisk the eggs for your breakfast omelette like it’s your last meal. Ideally, it is all so very beautiful, letting the world unfold before you like a miracle. 

Why does it feel so unattainable? Scratch that, why do they make it feel so attainable?

I surely can’t be the only one, as an early twenty-something and a sometimes unfortunately avid consumer of social media, on what could best be described as “Routine Tiktok.” Self-care Tiktok, morning routine Tiktok, night routine Tiktok, day-in-the-life Tiktok, what-I-eat-in-a-day Tiktok.

It includes anyone from the likes of celebrities, to influencers and business owners in their high-rises, to young adults with generational wealth in their lofts, to regular teens in their homes or hanging out with friends. I get so much satisfaction out of watching others do their so-called daily tasks, from the mundane to the exciting. 

I don’t think I have to make the spiel that nothing on social media is particularly authentic, I think we all know how that dance goes already. In a sphere that is all about craft and curation, the internet is not a space to wax poetic about organic existence. 

Sure, sometimes these posts feel a little real, like when I see @lei_go_to_therapy make a quick day-in-the-life where she admits that all she really did that day was wake up, sleep, maybe watch a couple episodes of a TV show. I love those ones, I do. It’s comforting. It’s a little bit like memoir writing, isn’t it? I mean, the most convincing thing about memoir is when the author acknowledges their short-comings, is candid about how things aren’t always what they seem. 

And then there are the other types, the ones with ethereal people in ethereal houses with amazing lives and amazing jobs. Trust me, I love @sighswoon, I really do. I think she, and other accounts like hers, do amazing work to help people on their spiritual journeys. I consume her content and it’s always nice to look at, the reminders and digital resting points and bits of poetry amidst the prose. But I can’t help but see her living the life in Hawaii, in a house by seaside, posting videos of waterfalls and hikes and beaches and just not being able to relate.

I don’t have that, most of us don’t have that, and this is not to say people don’t work hard for those things, but it is safe to say that the yearning for the lives of others can harm more than heal. 

Influencers and people who make those routine videos, the spiritual guides, the day-in-the-life Tiktoks, they know that those lives are curated. We know that those lives are curated. It’s a very clear exchange between creator and consumer. Social media is a highlight reel, or however the saying goes. It’s an unsaid agreement. That’s crystal clear to most adults on the internet, but this type of content still strives to portray a sense of authenticity even if that isn’t really possible. I don’t want a life that is not my own, I never will.

Man, do they make it feel attainable, though. It gets a little sinister.

Will I still wish I could spend my mornings on a balcony overlooking the sea? Sure. Will I still feel bad when my day is spent waking up, going to Zoom class, going on my phone, and going to sleep just to wake up and do it all again, my brain hammering at me to live my life to the fullest? Absolutely, whatever that means. People say you have the power to change your own life, yeah, yeah. Trust me, I know, let me be cynical and pensive, but that’s not what this piece is about. It’s about the other things.

Why doesn’t it feel as nice as it seems in the videos when the sun hits my face in the morning? Why isn’t the process of making my morning cup of pour-over coffee peaceful and meditative like theirs? Instead my brain just feels a little empty, full of goo and sludge and whatever comes next.

Maybe I just need to meditate, or go on the spiritual journey everyone talks about. Something like that. 

For now, I’ll still try to romanticize my life, because when the moments are good, they’re good. It’s about understanding that it all doesn’t have to be that way, that loving and being loved are good enough. I don’t always need to wake up at 5 AM, or do yoga, or meditate, or go on a run, or write in a journal, or be productive like the videos say.

Sometimes your orange tasted really sweet, and you laugh about the sting of the tartness in your cheek. Your hand is cold and your friend holds it and now it’s warm again. The tea soothes your throat and you feel it in your stomach. You trace your eyes across a finger as it points to the banana moon on a clear night. Things feel good, feel better, and it’s everything. 

I’ll turn my phone off when it gets to be too much.

 
 

 

Thumbnail image by Petra Collins

On Taylor Swift's Longstanding Cultural Impact

Fans of Taylor Swift’s music have been eagerly anticipating her rereleased music ever since she announced her intentions to rerecord her first six albums (Taylor Swift, Fearless, Speak Now, Red, 1989, and Reputation) in order to gain ownership of her own music, and today the rerecorded version of her 2008 classic Fearless dropped.

The album cover for Taylor Swift’s upcoming rerecording of Fearless. Image via.

The album cover for Taylor Swift’s upcoming rerecording of Fearless. Image via.

Despite the original version of popular Fearless single “Love Story” having been released almost 13 years ago, the release of “Love Story (Taylor’s Version)” was incredibly well-received, with the song garnering nearly 6 million streams within its first day of release on February 12. The lasting popularity of “Love Story” is a testament to Swift’s longstanding cultural impact: from the release of her album in 2006, she has maintained extensive popularity as one of the world’s most successful female artists. Today, she is the second most-streamed female artist of all time on Spotify, only after Ariana Grande. Following the release of her eighth studio album, folklore, she became the female artist to have released the most songs (128) to chart on the U.S. Billboard Hot 100, surpassing Nicki Minaj.

To have maintained this level of popularity and success over a period of 15 years is a feat achieved by few artists. So how has Taylor Swift maintained such long-lasting relevance in the music industry?

It would be difficult to write about Taylor Swift’s impact without mentioning her reputation in the media. Her public life has received a great deal of attention from the media, with a particular interest in her relationships and her former and current friendships with other high-profile celebrities such as Selena Gomez, Karlie Kloss, and Ryan Reynolds. Swift has received a great deal of criticism from those who believe that she has dated too many man or written too many songs about her ex-boyfriends. She is also known for her feuds, most notably with Kanye West and Kim Kardashian. While Swift is often portrayed in an unfavorable manner by the media, this portrayal has shaped her into a feminist icon among her fans, who rebuke the criticism given by the media to her personal life. These portrays have also, in part, inspired Swift’s recent political activism.

Taylor Swift and Kanye West have had a complicated relationship over the years, beginning with West interrupting Swift at the 2009 VMAs. Image via.

Taylor Swift and Kanye West have had a complicated relationship over the years, beginning with West interrupting Swift at the 2009 VMAs. Image via.

While Swift has received a great deal of attention due to her controversial media portrayal, the media is certainly not the primary factor behind her popularity. Few can deny her talent at singing and songwriting: even if her music doesn’t fit your personal taste, everybody’s jammed (or cried) to at least one of her songs before. Particularly impressive is the ease with which her musical style has transitioned from country to pop to now alternative/indie. While Swift’s most well-known songs are generally her most radio-friendly, upbeat songs (think “You Belong With Me,” “Shake It Off,” and “22”), she has received the most critical acclaim for her sadder, more personal songs. In particular, songs like “Dear John,” “All Too Well,” and “Cardigan” have received great praise for their lyricism and storytelling. Swift has also received commendation for how personal songs such as “Marjorie” and “Soon You’ll Get Better” about her family are.

Taylor Swift’s success may also be, in part, due to the level of intimacy she maintains with her fans. Most well-known are her “Secret Sessions,” in which she invites groups of her most active fans from social media to her home and plays her albums for them before they’re released to the public. Swift has also been known to send personalized gifts to fans and invite her most eager fans backstage after her concerts to meet her. She’s also interacted with her fans by leaving intricate easter eggs and puzzles in her music videos, album memos, and social media posts, often using such clues to hint at upcoming music releases. As a result of these interactions, Swift has been able to maintain a unique and incredibly personal relationship with her fanbase over the years.

An image from one of Swift’s Secret Sessions. Image via.

An image from one of Swift’s Secret Sessions. Image via.

Another factor in Swift’s success has been how she has rebranded herself with each album release through different “eras” and aesthetics correlating to her albums. For instance, 2017’s Reputation was accompanied by a primarily black wardrobe with snake motifs. By contrast, her following album, 2019’s Lover, brought about an incredibly colorful pastel theme with heart and butterfly motifs. Swift has effectively incorporated aesthetics into her brand as a musician, heightening public interest in each album by accompanying relevant color schemes and motifs into her outfits, concerts, and music videos for each era.

A design from Taylor Swift’s merch highlighting the different aesthetics of her first eight eras, from her first, self-titled album to folklore (2020). Image via.

A design from Taylor Swift’s merch highlighting the different aesthetics of her first eight eras, from her first, self-titled album to folklore (2020). Image via.

Throughout her 15-year-long career, Swift has released a prolific amount of music, including nine studio albums and nearly 200 songs. She has also contributed to the soundtracks for a number of films, including Hannah Montana: The Movie, The Hunger Games, Fifty Shades Darker, and the ever-controversial Cats. In the past year and a half alone, she’s released three albums, including two surprise albums that were released within months of each other, with Fearless (Taylor’s Version) set to release soon. She’s also released two documentaries accompanying her albums Lover and folklore. The amount of music Swift has released is a testament to the incredibly hard work she’s put into her music career, hard work that has certainly paid off, given the lasting impact her music will have on the industry for years to come.

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Album Review: Whole Lotta Red

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There is perhaps no musical artist in today’s cultural scene who can deftly shapeshift with more volatility than Playboi Carti. His ability to sprint in one direction, stop on a dime, and pivot to another in any number of wild, unforeseen ways, has contributed immensely to his mystique. Only a few months after releasing his 2018 album Die Lit, Carti began recording his next, which he proclaimed would be a more “alternative” and “psyched out” project that would propel his sound into uncharted territory. A few months later, in May 2019, fans leaked several songs he was looking to include on the album on YouTube, SoundCloud, and TikTok. Unreleased tracks such as “Pissy Pamper,” “Opium,” and “Taking My Swag” racked up millions of listens across myriad platforms, driving Carti to remake the album from scratch — yet another testament to his improvisational virtuosity as an artist. Then, in April 2020, Carti dropped “@ Meh,” which he purported to be his upcoming album’s lead single; in one more bewildering about-face, he would ultimately exclude the track on the final project.

Thus, it is only fitting that Carti’s relentless versatility is just as prominently displayed in Whole Lotta Red as it is in the whirlwind of events that culminated in its creation, and the opening track, “Rockstar Made,” functions as a potent overture to the album’s twisting turbulence. In the track, Carti’s vocal adeptly careens with cataract force from his signature “baby voice” — imparted within a lighter, higher register that is equal parts delicate and shrill — to a darker, more serrated tone laced with intentional straining and cracking. His chameleonic acrobatics are amplified tenfold in their visceral extravagance against a bold backdrop of clipping 808 instrumentals and menacing minor synth lines; the effect of Carti abrasively rasping out every last drop of sound from his being, as if his contorted vocal cords have been eviscerated from hours of screaming the song’s lyrics, transcends performance and comes to embody the artistic experience. “Rockstar Made” thus exemplifies the most enthralling aspect of Whole Lotta Red: it masterfully explores the multitudes of complex identities and sounds that Carti adroitly weaves his work with, paving the way for a musical masterpiece unlike any other.

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The album’s first three tracks — “Rockstar Made,” the Kanye West feature “Go2DaMoon,” and the Gucci Mane-inspired “Stop Breathing” — showcase Carti at his rawest and roughest. He hisses, “I take my shirt off and all the h*es stop breathing,” yet he sounds as if he is the one who is on the cusp of losing his air, especially as he gasps out arresting lines like “Ever since my brother died / I been thinkin’ ‘bout homicide.” Carti’s trademark minimalistic writing — with choruses and hooks as repetitive as a Philip Glass string quartet — both contrasts with and complements this dramatic delivery style. Instead of unwittingly falling victim to meaningless tautology, Carti’s lyrics daringly lean into repetition with the conscious intent of instilling every single reiteration of every single syllable with an ineluctable dynamism. The risk pays off in spades, as the high-pressure tracks on Whole Lotta Red crackle indelibly with eclectic energy.

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Just as Carti begins to lull the listener into his rhythm with the album’s opening trio of tracks, he abruptly yanks us into a different dimension — a grating outro filled with rasped repetitions of “whet” suddenly segues into “Beno!”, which opens with a cutesy and whimsical synth descant that would not sound out of place playing through the aisles of a candy store. He shifts his aggressive flow to a playful lilt, donning his idiosyncratic “baby voice” to maneuver through more metrically meticulous moments. Despite their lyrical complexity, lines like “All black 2-3, LeBron with the heat / I was just in Miami in the Rolls Royce geeked” begin to sound like simple playground chants and nursery rhymes because of the breadth of Carti’s sonic inventory. As the album progresses, we are plunged even deeper into this funhouse tour of musical madness. The sinister “Vamp Anthem” warps Johann Sebastian Bach’s “Toccata and Fugue in D Minor” into a harsh trap beat; the saccharine chord progression and pulsing instrumental of “Control” evoke the sound of early 2010s dance-pop; soft samples of Bon Iver lend a transcendental tranquility to the album’s closing track, the indie folk-influenced “F33l Lik3 Dyin.” Yet, as we are tossed asunder by the hurricane that is Whole Lotta Red, we never quite feel like we are losing sight of the album’s core meaning and sound — it is the perfect storm, an illusion of chaos orchestrated with scientific precision by our maestro.

Whole Lotta Red reaches its most immaculate heights when Carti acquiesces to the music’s hypnotic power, letting his innermost words and feelings spill out of him, unbridled and unchained. “Slay3r,” which features exquisite production by Juberlee and Roark Bailey, cradles Carti back and forth with its carefree and cartoonish ambiance, and he playfully responds with uncharacteristically jocular refrains of “Whole lotta mob sh*t / Whole lotta mob, whole lotta mob sh*t.” The juxtaposition of such a jaunty sound with the track’s devilishly dark subject matter and inspiration — the song pays homage to the thrash metal band Slayer — palpably demonstrates how twisted Carti’s sense of irony becomes when unleashed in full force. As listeners, we are even treated to an exploration of his vulnerable side; on the deceptively chill “ILoveUIHateU,” Carti pours out, “I mix all of my problems and Prometh’ until I roll on my death bed / Don’t get close, uh, baby, don’t get too close.” This riveting confession — of his potentially lethal drug use, of his fear of emotional intimacy and availability, of his awareness and deliberate ignorance of his self-destructive tendencies — paints a different picture of Carti than his “rockstar” songs do. We have peeled back the façade of Carti the artist to reveal Carti, the human.

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The album reaches its zenith at the start of its final stretch with the track “Sky,” which is an ode to substance abuse and its escapist utility. After a disorienting intro that sounds vaguely like video game boss music, Carti comes in on the chorus with a mesmerizingly restrained sound that still sounds like it is on the verge of losing control. After tenuously riding the beat through the track’s opening, Carti hits its next section, which fittingly begins with an invocation to “Wake up!”, and he loosens up and begins to derail in the best way possible. Carti’s flow loses its smooth sheen and slowly becomes erratic and syncopated, navigating through intricate polyrhythms and oscillating between being behind the beat and being in front of it. He delivers lines like “Can’t f*ck with nobody, not even my shadow / I got on Ed Hardy, she got on stilettos” with a captivating fiendishness that puts the listener on edge in spite of the track’s relatively tame vocal and dreamy Travis Scott-like sound.

Whole Lotta Red garnered intensely polarizing reception upon release, with many diehard Carti fans proclaiming that the album is too splintered and possesses no particular unifying sound. While these traits may be undesirable in the rap mainstream, they are precisely the unique traits that give Whole Lotta Red its je ne sais quoi. The album is nothing short of manic and unhinged; it is a treacherous labyrinth, filled with everything, from Baroque polyphony to Atlanta hip-hop, and elevated by the incomparable temerity of Carti’s experimental performance. As he expresses in “Punk Monk” with the declarations, “I just worry ‘bout me” and “I don’t rap, I write poems,” Carti deeply values pure authenticity and innovative brazenness, and his new album reflects his commitment to keeping his head down, blocking out the noise, and carving out his own path in the rap industry. Whole Lotta Red stands by itself in today’s popular music landscape as a generational work of transcendent genius, unparalleled in its inventiveness, and listeners would do well to look past the smoke and mirrors of Carti’s carefully constructed madhouse to unearth the deeply emotional richness of his work.

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The Enchanting Craziness of The Masked Singer (USA)’s Costume Design

As season 5 of the award-winning reality singing competition is set to premiere on March 10th, the UK version just saw a Sausage winning season 2, and its sister show The Masked Dancer is close to its end, there is nothing more fitting to talk about than The Masked Singer and its most famous and enticing aspect. No, I am not talking about the celebrities inside the whimsical and beautifully crafted costumes, who sing to win the golden mask and have a great time, judged only by their vocal abilities and stage presence, nor the celebrity judges who collect the clues and guess the people behind the masks. I am referring to the costumes themselves, which were finally recognized with an Emmy Award in 2020 after two seasons of a terrific display of craft and creativity by lead designer Marina Toybina.

Based on the South Korean reality sensation, The Masked Singer (USA) provides a unique experience to the singing competition concept. It supplements the idea of rewarding the best singers by adding the mystery factor to the contestants’ voices, hiding their true identity inside fantastical costumes, which provides a guessing game that engages the judges and audiences even more. Clues are sprinkled inside every episode, serving as the leading indications to whom resides behind the masks, especially when the famed contestants—actors, comedians, dancers, magicians, models, performers, politicians, professional singers,  sportspeople, social media sensations—sing for the first time.

The series also adds to the auditory experience an even more extraordinary visual spectacle as the costumes worn by the celebrities are beautiful pieces of handiwork, representing animals like the Peacock and the Kitty, foods like the Egg and the Broccoli, objects like the Skeleton and the Robot, creatures like the Monster and the Baby Alien, and ethereal beings like the Night Angel and the Sun. However, some of these singing characters are not only their namesake. Season 3 features a Kangaroo boxer, a punk Turtle, a Rhino aviator, and a hippie Llama, adding an extra layer to the show’s character-building complexity solely based on visual appearances. And many times, the costumes have been able to fool the judges since characters like the Leopard and the Mushroom appear female, but they were worn by male celebrities.

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As I mentioned before, Marina Toybina is the fashion designer behind The Masked Singer’s costume designs. By age 16, she was already hiring sewers to develop her fashion croquis, which eventually led her to gain a spot in the Los Angeles Fashion Institute of Design & Marketing. Influenced by Tim Burton and the 2000s movie The Cell, Toybina’s talent for couture brought her into the world of costuming. She has worked since with artists like Ariana Grande, Britney Spears, Carrie Underwood, Fifth Harmony, Katy Perry, P!nk, Taylor Swift, and Selena Gomez on their tours and music videos; she designed costumes for shows including So You Think you Can Dance and The X-Factor; and she has come up with one of the most memorable characters of 2015’s Super Bowl Half-time show with Katy Perry: the “Left Shark.” It was only two months after Toybina wrapped up her Beautiful Trauma World Tour with P!nk that Fox, the channel that produces The Masked Singer, contacted her to work on the show.

Toybina and her team sketch around 20-35 designs, which the series’ executive producers strip down to between 12 to 18 depending on the season, and have around two months in the first, and then three to four months in the following seasons to complete the whole visual. That is for sure a time constraint, so the team needs to know how to work under high pressure. In an interview with Deadline, the designer said that she does most of the pencil renderings and then collaborates with an illustrator to transform the 2D sketches into a digital 3D form, making it easier to understand what materials and weaving processes the costume construction needs. Then, Toybina displays a selection of illustrations accepted by the producers to the contestants for them to choose from, and when they pick a favorite, both work together to personalize and tailor the look. The designer then buys the fabrics and collaborates with special effects artists and fabricators to construct the costumes. And, as she explained in the interview, “once the costumes were executed, I was able to really customize it for [the celebrities]—not just doing proper tailoring, but [putting in] special things that made the costumes even that much more like an equal match.”

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For season 1, Toybina highlights the inspiration behind the Peacock and the Rabbit’s design. For the fashionista, a peacock is a flashy, rich bird that reminds her of Las Vegas, and from Vegas came the showmanship Elvis look. Conversely, the Rabbit was much less inspired by the animal’s general qualities. She took a 180° turn from the idea of rabbits as cute, friendly Easter mascots into the terrifying depiction of Donnie Darko’s rabbit, making something a little less comfortable to the eye. Taking from a second movie inspiration, Edward Scissorhands, Toybina crafted, in her own words, “something that was a little bit fashion-forward,” but that also paid homage to cinema.

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In an interview with Vulture, she goes on to breakdown the inspiration for all season 2 designs. From it, the most interesting artistic intents come from the Egg and the Leopard. In the Egg’s case, the celebrity behind the mask just wanted to be an egg. That was their prerequisite, so Toybina had to get creative on how to make the food eye-catching. The designer came up with several egg-related ideas to solve her conundrum, crafting a costume that could be outfitted for a runaway or worn by the 2010 Lady Gaga. She designed a boiled egg mask, a sunny side up fried egg hat, a Fabergé breastplate (the costume’s piece most related to the celebrity’s personality), and a cracked eggshell coat for the character. Alternatively, Toybina wanted to subvert the audience and judges’ expectations about someone dressed as a Leopard. Rather than making the design skintight sexy, filled with prints all over, she stated that she wanted “to create something that was Victorian and was vintage and did have this big presence onstage.” She added a Victorian print to a Victorian cut dress and a ruff collar fit for a queen, and formidable alluring bright-green eyes that were impossible to stop looking at.

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Regarding season 3, in a Variety interview, Toybina described how she came up with Kitty's costume. Because she wanted to maintain the celebrity’s playful and young nature and match her old-timey theatrical personality, she came up with a flapper, sensual, burlesque cat design. The stylist prioritized working on the cat mask, ensuring the bow and head crown maintained a stable weight to prevent overwhelming the celebrity’s head. But she also ended up hand embroidering every single bead in the costume, from the burlesque kitty mask’s headpiece to her gloves and dress. Additionally, in a conversation with Gold Derby, Toybina explained her thought process behind depicting the Kangaroo. She played with the attributes that qualify the animal in general and built upon them based on the talent behind the mask. As she points out, “everyone knows what a kangaroo looks like. I could leave it without a costume, but at the same time, with that particular character, it was like, ‘What does that represent?’ It represents strength, power, fighter.” From there on, she had to implement a uniqueness to such character, deciding to add rhinestone boxing gloves and a child-like Kangaroo mask to portray the idea that, behind the costume, there was a more vulnerable person, a celebrity that constantly tries to fight the recent obstacles of her life.

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Finally, season 4 once again delivered with the creativity and craft behind the costume designs. In an article by the New York Post, Toybina stated that she planned the fourth installment’s over-the-top creations with 2020’s dreary climate in mind as she “wanted this season to be colorful and fun and big and happy, to put smiles on the viewers’ faces.” One such artifact of this motivation was the Baby Alien, which pulled from pop culture’s baby trope (Baby Groot, Baby Nut, and Baby Yoda/Grogu, for example) to become the perfect combination between lovable and outlandish. The season was the first time the series had a puppet, an idea that sprang from the fashionista asking herself what could be so captivating and extravagant for the audience to watch. Another costume that followed that “escape from 2020” motto was the Giraffe, which Toybine designed to be “soft and pastel and friendly.” And to attach that touch of creativity to the character, she transformed it into the season’s period piece, inspired by the royal wealth aesthetic and Marie Antoinette’s demeanor. 

In the end, since its production stage, Marina Toybina felt the potential behind the premise of The Masked Singer. In her own words, she enjoyed “being able to create characters that are not just visually stimulating and exciting, but also mobile enough to perform; being able to execute choreography and their vocals at the same time, and kind of creating a whole package.” The TV show is distinctive in a way that makes it fun, relaxing, and appealing while also providing a fresh new perspective into how singing competitions can still stay relevant in today’s world, innovating the entertainment sector’s approach to audience engagement and creativity. More often than not, those shows that cater towards the absurd, weird, and zany provide the best remedies and time offs for reality’s sometimes brutal existence.

If you want to know more about The Masked Singer, you can stream it through Fox Now, Hulu, Tubi, and fuboTV, and watch it on Fox! Wednesdays at 8 pm ET and 7 pm CT. You can also binge some of the series’ episode snippets on their YouTube channel.


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Before There Was Punk, There Was Death

 

Punk subculture is a coalescence of countless radical aesthetics and convictions. Irrepressibility. A do-it-yourself spirit. Anti-establishment and anti-authoritarian mindsets. Rebellious attire. 

Notorious whiteness. 

With the rise of bands and artists from the likes of the Ramones, Patti Smith, and the Sex Pistols in the mid-70’s, three black brothers from Detroit, unbeknownst to the rest of the world,  had already laid out the foundation.

Film poster for A Band Called Death

Film poster for A Band Called Death

The story of the brothers was recalled in a 2012 documentary film titled A Band Called Death, directed by Mark Christopher Covino and Jeff Howlett, and follows two of the brothers as they tell the tale of Death and its new found glory decades after their disbandment.

The film begins, after a compilation of confessions from musicians like Kid Rock and Questlove, by giving us tracking shots of worn down houses, caved-in rooftops, and dilapidated arches that read 

MO OR CITY IN U T R  L PARK 

in Detroit, Michigan. “Welcome to my neighborhood,” Bobby Hackney Sr. boasts, “2240 Lillibridge. This is where Death was born.”

The band was composed of Bobby Hackney Sr. on vocals and bass, Dannis Hackney on drums, and David Hackney as guitarist, songwriter, and leader. 

The Death brothers grew up during Motown time in Detroit, preacher’s sons with spirituality rooted deep within them. It’s when their father sat them down to watch The Beatles play that they knew music is what they wanted to do. It was David that rallied them together to form the band. The brothers, unsure whether they wanted to be a rock or a funk band, were first called Rock Fire Funk Express. When David went down one day to see The Who, he knew rock and roll was the music they had to play. And when Dennis saw Alice Cooper, all bets were off.

The Death Triangle

The Death Triangle

After the death of their father, in Spring of 1974 David came up with the name that changed it all: Death. Their name would always have shock value, because “death is real,” David claimed. The goal was to put a positive spin on death, the ultimate trip. The circles on the band’s logo, the Death triangle, represent the three elements of life: the spiritual, the mental, the physical. The latter circle is the guiding spirit of the universe. It’s God, really. 

Dannis and Bobby still ooze musician cool decades later, the brothers bringing the crew throughout their home while pointing out corners of memories and the ghosts of their instruments. This is where Dannis’ drums would be. This is where David would stand. 

The name was a roadblock, but wouldn’t change under any circumstances. “If we give him the title of our band,” David said on record producer Clive Davis, “we might as well give him everything else.”

And what’s more punk than resistance? Than persistent blackness? 

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They don't care who they step on

As long as they get along

Politicians in my eyes

They could care less about you

They could care less about me

As long as they are to end

The place that they want to be

Politicians in My Eyes (1974/2009)

It’s in this discomfort that Death crafted itself as a band ahead of its time, proto-punk among an age of angsty whiteness. 

But is it really all in the name? I don’t bite. 

Black folks time after time are forced to deal with their invisibility and hypervisibility in popular culture. In the 70’s, the association with black musicians to the Motown sound, especially in its birthplace of Detroit, left artists like the Hackney brothers in the dust of a seemingly whitewashed sound: a sound that they pioneered. 

“We were ridiculed because at the time everybody in our community was listening to the Philadelphia sound, Earth, Wind & Fire, the Isley Brothers,” Bobby said to Red Bull Music Academy, “People thought we were doing some weird stuff. We were pretty aggressive about playing rock ’n’ roll because there were so many voices around us trying to get us to abandon it.”

Their inability to get radio play caused them to sell most of their equipment, and in 1977 Death disbanded. Dannis and Bobby closed the book on that chapter in their lives and formed reggae band Lambsbread in the 80’s. Before David’s eventual death in 2000, he told his brothers, “The world’s gonna come looking for the Death stuff.” And he was right. 

In the early 2000’s the resurrection began. The newfound discovery of Death was an anagmalation of things: Bobby Hackney’s sons’ interest in the punk rock scene, the influence of musician Don “Das” Schwenk, and the mysterious ways in which the universe can only discover a band of visionaries lying in wait decades later. Schwenk, a longtime friend of the Hackneys, was commissioned to create the album art for what would have been the Politicians In My Eyes LP back in the day: unable to pay him, the brothers gave him copies of the LP instead. Years later after Death’s demise, Schwenk began to hand them out to collectors. “It’s never too late,” he said.

Bobby and Dannis Hackney for The New York Times

Bobby and Dannis Hackney for The New York Times

The track list to Death’s original master tape from the 70’s

The track list to Death’s original master tape from the 70’s

As the record began to circulate among collectors circles, niche popularity grew. It made its way to Chunklet magazine and eventually began to spin at underground rock ‘n roll parties. It’s how Julian Hackney, son of Bobby, discovered that his father and two uncles were punk before punk was punk—since the brothers never felt the need to tell the kids about all the rejection they went through as rock stars. After a friend of Julian recommended him to listen to the band Death, his father’s voice on the record was unmistakable. The discovery led to Bobby’s sons forming their own band, Rough Francis, to cover Death’s music. 

And there is something quite beautiful about that. About the legacy of music passed down almost hereditarily, though unconsciously. It’s Bobby’s sons who made it their mission to get the music out, to let the world know that their father and uncles were the predecessors of what punk became. In 2009, Death was able to officially release their 1970s demos as the studio album  …For the Whole World to See: it was named decades before by their late brother, David.

In the opening of the film, the camera follows Dannis and Bobby haphazardly, panning back and forth between their conversation with old neighborhood friends. When Bobby tells one of them, “They’re telling the story about death,” the woman shrugs, “I’m still here!”

Sounds familiar. Sounds like a legacy. Sounds immortal.

Bobby and Dannis Hackney showing off their official 2009 studio album, …For the Whole World to See

Bobby and Dannis Hackney showing off their official 2009 studio album, …For the Whole World to See

A Band Called Death (2012) can be streamed on Prime Video, or Youtube.com

…For the Whole World to See can be found directly on Spotify, Apple Music, and other streaming platforms

Unlinked pictures, including the featured image, were stills taken directly from A Band Called Death (2012)

 

A Collage of Collages

Collage.

The word itself comes from the French root coller, which translates to “to stick things together.” The art of collage, meanwhile, does not grow apart from the original meaning, and as defined by the art institution Tate, “describes both the technique and the resulting work of art in which pieces of paper, photographs, fabric, and other ephemera are arranged and stuck down onto a supporting surface.”

The earlier practices of collage required the physical attractions of different textured materials ranging from newspapers to ribbons. Thus, the aim was to manifest the unity of the assembly of different pieces. Although the word of collage evokes the images of Renaissance sculptures that are photoshopped on pop-culture figures on everyone’s Instagram feeds, the earlier examples were first seen in the Japanese and Chinese dynasties and Medieval Europe. The modernist approaches were later featured in the works of Baroch and Picasso. Thinking about the meaning that those artists added to the glossary, “irrelevancies’ harmony,” it wouldn’t surprise the audience to see that the collages spread to the surrealist movement.

Sticking to its general meaning, merging the different mediums, it is reasonable to state that the term collage can extend beyond the limits of visual arts. The motive “medium” involves fields such as music, film, literature, and fashion; any field that possesses varying materials within is able to produce collages. Fabrics, textures, sounds, clefs, negative images, color palettes, and of course, paper and ink, the list can go up till the nutritions in your fridge. 

In the twenty-first century, the so-called innovation and technology revolution, the collages adapted to the century’s necessities and took the form of digital media. With the availability of software that comes as default apps within our technological devices, the physical collages are shelved upon the hobby label--or used as artists’ proficient works. The emerging digital collages contributed to the flood of digital image marketing and uncovered the veils of photomontages. 

Over the course of the collage’s history, it obviously was exposed to some serious changes. There is really no “the true collage” anyways (ahem, the quarrel of the digital vs. physical arts, ahem). In the end, what matters is always the creation of the artist and the appreciation of the observer.

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The Samurai of Brooklyn

The golden age of hip-hop, much to the chagrin of conservative periodicals and leagues of Concerned Moms, had something of a gangster obsession. Mafia movies were quoted and sampled, the lives of gang members were by turns valorized, eulogized and criticized, and street violence was gorily and glorily recounted. Men—boys conscripted into manhood, some of them—made sense of their lives according to these tales, which were realistic in the sense of giving birth to the reality which bears them out. The faces in the films were largely white, yet they held massive appeal to a generation of young black men. Raekwon’s Only Built for Cuban Linx, the Notorious B.I.G., Jay Z on Reasonable Doubt and American Gangster, Straight Outta Compton… 

The appeal of movies which depicted a world of crooked cops, of political (in the realest sense) maneuvering which, if done wrong, could cost your life, of violence, unwanted, but necessitated by the conditions of the world, which depicted the power fantasy of controlling this world, was perhaps obvious. Less obvious was the connection these artists had to another genre, kung-fu movies.

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Imported for cheap from Hong Kong, played on a loop by the struggling theaters around Times Square, and marketed nearly exclusively to minorities, they would soon appear on television as well. Their influence would spread, from Grandmaster Flash to breakdancing moves to, most famously, the Wu-Tang Clan. Kendrick Lamar continues this tradition with his nickname Kung-fu Kenny and in his video for “DNA.” 

At the most basic level, kung-fu movies were used as an analogy for rapping itself. Enter the Wu-Tang (36 Chambers), the Wu-Tang Clan’s first album, is premised on this idea, as are many of their solo albums. In martial arts movies, an apprentice begins by mastering the form, often under the tutelage of an older master. A key element of their training will be sparring with other students and eventually the master (as in GZA’s “Duel of the Iron Mike”). They must create their own unique style in order to become a master (“En garde, I’ll let you try my Wu-Tang style” begins the first track, “Bring Da Ruckus.”) Learning martial arts allows the student to gain control over their situation, to leave behind or ameliorate their troubles. Rapping did the same for the members of Wu-Tang:

Started off on the island, AKA Shaolin /

N***** wildin’, gun shots thrown, the phone dialin’ /

Back in the days, I’m 8 now /

Makin’ a tape now, Rae got a plate now

(“Can It Be All So Simple/Intermission”)

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But this fails to answer the question of why kung-fu movies? It doesn’t explain their appeal in the first place; for that we have to look at the movies themselves. Enter takes its name from a classic of kung-fu cinema, The 36th Chamber of Shaolin, which launched the careers of its director and stars, and secured the place of the Shaw Brothers studio as the leader in Hong Kong imports. The film follows San Te, a young man who becomes involved in a rebellion against the invading Manchus at the behest of his teacher. Upon uncovering the rebellion, the brutal general of the Manchus kills San Te’s family and classmates, leading him to flee the city and seek refuge in a Shaolin temple. There he masters the Shaolin style of martial arts, which, after six years of training to master all 35 “chambers,” he uses to defeat the general and free his hometown. The film ends as he returns to the temple and founds the 36th chamber, which will open the temple to the wider world and teach laymen the art of kung-fu so that they can defend themselves. 

The politics of the film are representative of the genre. The hero of a kung-fu movie is also persecuted and at a disadvantage, often by colonizers, sometimes white ones. The heroes of these films, unlike American action films, are also non-white (Bruce Lee’s Enter the Dragon even features a black star in Jim Kelley, unheard of in mainstream American cinema). Unable to sit down in the face of oppression, our protagonists engage in righteous violence against their persecutors, eventually freeing themselves and their community from the tartar.

The films have a philosophy of violence where it is at once necessary and unwanted. They present a ritualized form of violence—in kung-fu movies there are rules, codes of honor, ceremony in fighting for self-defense—thereby making sense out of what was senseless. The parallel to black liberation for a generation raised in the shadow of the Civil Rights movement hardly needs saying. Like their contemporaries, spaghetti Westerns, kung-fu movies sold the myth of individual liberation through self-cultivation. The messiness of collective action is removed: you can free yourself by training and self-discipline. Mastering yourself amounts to mastery of your situation.

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Perhaps the most successful integration of kung-fu movies is found in GZA’s Liquid Swords, which intermittently samples the 1980 film Shogun Assassin. The film is crucial in creating the world of the album—a world of drug dealers and mules, muggers, shady federal agents and cartoonish violence. GZA is a magnetic presence, bending even the indomitable personalities of his fellow Clan members to his gravitas. His rapping is unrelenting but never rushed, determined and serious, inescapable. Like Rakim, he knows when to effortlessly glide over the beat and when to dig in. He never wrote a simile he didn’t like (on Liquid Swords, “dope sales drop/ like the crash in the Dow Jones stock,” troops are “spread out like crops on a farm,” “cops creep like caterpillars”). The album is nearly perfect in the totality of its mood and GZA’s intransigent flow (excluding Killah Priest’s bonus track “B.I.B.L.E.”, an interesting novelty track which breaks the thematic unity of the album). RZA’s production samples liberally both from Shogun Assassin’s dialogue and futuristic soundtrack to create an exceptionally dark setting, matching GZA’s lyricism.

The film, made from English-dubbed material cut from the first two Lone Wolf and Cub movies, follows father and son Ogami and Daigoro after they are forced to flee their home because Ogami decapitated the Shogun’s son and his wife was murdered by ninja. The Shogun sends various groups to kill the pair, but they are able to rebuff them all. It ends with Ogami killing the Shogun’s brother in the desert.

Shogun Assassin strips the martial arts movie back to its basic components: it is essentially just a series of fight scenes with the minimal plot there to string them along. So much has been cut as to border on incoherence (Why is Ogami’s wife murdered? for instance). Ogami and Daigoro are rarely shown doing anything other than fighting, and when they are resting the respite is brief before agents of the Shogun find them again. There is no safety in their world, no end to the violence; the ending is, likewise, a non-ending which implies that the violence will continue indefinitely. Ogami never kills the Shogun (which would end their persecution), only his brother. The film is pulpy and grotesque – the blood, bright red, erupts from the bodies – and pure camp. The fights, the film knows, are the main attraction. They are poetic and dreamy yet savage and visceral.

Liquid Swords begins and ends with samples from the beginning and end of Shogun Assassin—of Daigoro’s opening monologue and the final words of one of the Masters of Death as his throat is cut, respectively—setting up an analogy between the film and the album. Shogun Assassin sets the tone for GZA’s cold world, of isolation and weariness, where to survive one must become, like Ogami, a demon. The parallels between the songs on Liquid Swords and the samples that frequently begin them is sometimes tenuous, but the effect is quite intentional overall.

Both GZA and Shogun Assassin present hopeless situations; martial arts and rapping don’t help them escape. In this they were outliers. When San Te first confronts the general in The 36th Chamber, his uncle warns him that “One must submit to those who rule.” He asks in response: “Must we and our children yield and conform forever?” Kung-fu movies and the kids who internalized them answered him: “We won’t.”


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Learning to Listen to Ambient Music

Brian Eno’s famous dictum that ambient music should “accommodate many levels of listening attention without forcing one in particular; it must be ignorable as it is interesting” leaves the music with a tightrope to walk: it must be interesting enough to sustain an attentive listener, but ignorable enough to serve as background noise. It also leaves a unique challenge to the listener, as the ambiguity inherent in the mission of Eno’s ambient leaves them to decide: how best to listen to the music? 

While Eno’s formative experience with ambient – a friend left music too low to be fully heard while he was hospitalized after a car accident – wouldn’t come until later that year, and he wouldn’t consciously pursue something he called “ambient” until three years later, the beginning traces of his ambient work can be found in the 1975 album Another Green World. Typically lumped in with his early “vocal” albums, only 5 of the 14 tracks feature vocals; they are scattered throughout the album (unlike the Eno-assisted Low), as if to re-center the listening experience on something recognizably human in an otherwise alien landscape. A fixation with the inhuman would come to haunt Eno’s ambient works, but here his voice is there to ground us, and the album cover features humanoid figures, which, starting with Discreet Music, none of his ambient albums would. The vocal tracks are good as far as they go, if they sometimes seem a little de rigueur for Eno.

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The instrumental tracks on Another, on the other hand, are as interesting as they are impossible to ignore. A melancholic synth fades in and out, backed by a hypnotic drum beat, as the music swells on “The Big Ship,” a track which seems to me an ode to the march of progress. It is one of the few hopeful instrumental songs on the album. “In Dark Trees” disturbs with its central riff, repeating, echoing xylophone and dark synth undercurrents, which defy the naturalness suggested in the title. “Sombre Reptiles” is similarly melancholic. But as the album progresses the songs lose their emotional clarity, prefiguring Eno’s later ambient works. “Little Fishes” is playful and small, a musical equivalent of a nursery rhyme. “Becalmed” and “Zawinul/Lava” build themselves up to no avail, ending as mysteriously as when they began. 

Nonetheless Another Green World does seem to suggest a certain style of listening on the continuum of background noise and full attentiveness. The songs share a hypnotic repetition – reminiscent of the “Oblique Strategies” card (which Eno would develop with Peter Schmidt later that year) that reminds us that “repetition is a form of change” – that encourages a peculiar form of engagement. Especially in the first half of the album, where the tracks have a clear emotional tenor, the songs allow one to get lost in oneself, in one’s thoughts and dreams, while being unobtrusively guided by the music. The songs shape the experience without overpowering it, suggesting certain reactions without forcing them.

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Discreet Music is where the vision of ambient first coalesced (though it still didn’t go by the name). The 32-minute title track is made up of a few synth notes gently floating in and out of consciousness, with minor variations throughout. The song seems to cyclically expand and contract, benignly peaceful – the experience can be transcendent. This would turn out to be at odds with the project of Ambient 1/ Music for Airports, whose liner notes are the source of the “ignorable as it is interesting” moniker. Where Ambient 1 defies the expectation that art be a self-contained entity, metaphysically higher than ordinary experience and utilitarian objects, Discreet Music exemplifies it. Ambient 1 becomes part of its environment, its sound mixing with it in ways Eno cannot control; Discreet Music is an all-encompassing aesthetic experience, despite its ignorability. Their disunity hints at the fundamental ambiguity in the promise of ambient, the alternative directions it can take; both live up to Eno’s phrase, but entirely differently. They demand to be listened to differently. 

Ambient 1 shares a guiding premise with John Cage’s 4’33” (1952): to highlight the incidental sounds of the listening space – in Cage’s case, the conversation of those in the concert hall, seats shifting, coughs, staff moving in and out – thereby revealing the social construction of the concept of music. The idea that Cage’s piece is about silence seems to me a misinterpretation. The silence of the composer only serves to display the sounds of the audience, the ambient noise generated in the space. Once the composer has shifted one’s attention to it, the “non-musical” (i.e., ignorable) sounds of the audience can be heard for the first time, not as a distraction from the music but as constituting it. Like 4’33”, Ambient 1 gives its audience very little; even the titles have lost their descriptiveness (compare “1/1” and “2/1” to “The Big Ship” or “Unfamiliar Wind”). The sound, like that of 4’33”, is meant to be uncontrolled to some extent. Both thus share a central thought with the “Oblique Strategies” deck – to welcome randomness into not only the production but the product itself. Chance is not incidental but crucial to the art itself. But Eno’s ambient music after Music for Airports would lose this shared purpose with 4’33” as he pursued more of the aesthetic wholeness of Discreet Music

These elements of ambient – and minimalist music generally – were roundly criticized by the music press of the time. It was uninteresting, unoriginal (mirroring the classic dig at modern art of “even I could do that”), in a sense hardly even music. Rolling Stone found Music for Airports boring, and a failure by its own terms. One critic compared a minimalist composer’s music to waves rolling on a shore: pretty, but meaningless. Meaninglessness was a common theme of the criticism, as ambient and minimalism lacked melody and progression, elements typically thought to impart meaning on a song. But these critics were listening for the wrong things; they hadn’t yet learned how to listen to ambient. 

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After his collaborations with Harold Budd and Laraaji on Ambient 2 and 3 (on the latter of which he is credited only as a producer), Eno produced his most haunting album of the ambient series in Ambient 4. Listening to On Land gives a disquieting sense of dislocation in time, a past sense of a future never come. It is the specter of the futures foretold in Blade Runner, Dune and Solaris, with their attendant mixture of futurism and dystopia, and confusion of the human and inhuman. What haunts us is a melancholy imposed retrospectively by an audience who knows that that future hasn’t come, that it won’t come. The music constantly shuttles us between this lost sense of the future and the past, the past of human vulnerability to the environment. The sounds of nature oppress on this album in a way nature rarely dominates us anymore. 

The song titles typically suggest something natural, as though ambient here seems to mean simply capturing, rather than creating a soundscape. All human elements have been abstracted away, leaving only an eerie sense of the nature indicated in the titles. It’s as if Eno recorded a Jurassic swamp transplanted into the 70’s and early 80’s idea of the future, with its juxtaposition of the sounds of frogs and crickets (and are those monkeys on “A Clearing”?) and synths. On “Tal Coat,” for example, synths bubble up, as if from a swamp, in an odd mix of the protean and futuristic. “Lizard Point” and “Lantern Marsh” are oppressive and minimal, reminiscent of Burial. The sound opens up slightly on, fittingly, “A Clearing,” before the sun rises on “Dunwich Beach.”

I find Ambient 4 to be the best of Eno’s ambient series, but with it the fibers connecting the four albums of the series are definitively cut. No longer is the music ignorable. But if on 4 it becomes clear that Eno has moved beyond “ignorable as it is interesting” as a guide for the project, it still fulfills the promise of ambient in its own way. It shares Discreet Music’s desire to create a total musical experience, but lacks its trance-like function. Rather, ambient in On Land is, as noted above, about creating the illusion of having captured sound rather than having created it. One has a sense of having stumbled on a pre-existing environment. On Land, therefore, suggests its own pattern of activity and passivity, attention and distraction for listening, quite different from any of the other ambient works. 

Despite the disunity of his projects, Eno’s ambient work instigated (and catalogued) a revolution in the uses of sound. He eroded how we thought to listen, like waves lapping on a shore.


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