Is TikTok the Newest Market for Fashion?

You’ve heard of fashion blogs and fashion Youtube channels, now get ready for … fashion TikToks? TikTok is often dismissed as a social media platform exclusively for younger members of Gen Z, limited to silly dance challenges and dumb videos that attempt to replicate the humor of Vines but fail. However, the unique format of TikTok videos has been adapted to produce engaging fashion content that differs from that of other social media platforms. TikTok may not be the most respected social media platform, but its short video length limit and user accessibility has allowed for many more people to create fashion content that is more creative and engaging than what you would typically find on a platform like Instagram.

Trends to Know

Decades

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Many TikTok users have recently started showcasing their own takes on style trends throughout the decades from the 1950s to the present. In these videos, users style their own clothes to match these trends while popular songs from the corresponding decades play in the background.

Friday I’m in Love

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In this trend, users use the song “Friday I’m in Love” by the Cure to display their daily outfits for the week.

Say So

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Users take the full-length, five-part version of the popular dance to “Say So” by Doja Cat and switch outfits every part to show off their style while dancing.

Creators to Know

jesskeo

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The girl who started the Decades trend, her style focuses on mainly vintage pieces that are either thrifted or refashioned from her mom and grandma’s wardrobes. Her videos include thrift hauls, her dancing to 80s music while dressed to match the vibe, and her dressing up and recreating iconic movies like Ferris Bueller’s Day Off.

_drewbaker

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One of the most popular content creators for men’s fashion on TikTok, Drew Baker is best known for his videos documenting outfits inspired by popular TV shows like Riverdale and Friends as well as movies like The Breakfast Club and The Outsiders. He also has videos exploring different types of men’s styles.

brittany.xavier

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Brittany Xavier is a great example of an already famous influencer expanding her social media presence to TikTok. She has accumulated millions of fans through years of posting curated fashion content on Instagram and Youtube. She has adapted her content to TikTok, primarily posting videos on how to style essentials like black turtlenecks and camel coats. She also posts lookbooks and compilations of her favorite fashion items.

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"Say So": Music in the Era of Social Media

Doja Cat recently released the music video for her hit song “Say So.” The song, released in November, is part of Doja Cat’s second studio album, Hot Pink, and has garnered massive popularity the past few months, becoming her first Top 40 single. The success of “Say So” has been largely due to a viral dance trend featuring the song that has swept TikTok, featuring a signature punch and body roll.

The music video is retro-inspired, focusing primarily on the 70s. Doja Cat wears a number of dazzling outfits as she dances and parties amidst a glittering LA backdrop. Rather than creating an intricate plot or storyline, the video focuses primarily on its aesthetic factor. Heavy emphasis is placed on the bold colors and dynamic patterns of the 70s. Doja Cat floats from one glass mansion to another, and the resulting view of LA’s skyline and hills is reminiscent of classic LA films like La La Land or Mullholland Drive.

The Looks

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Multicolored Ambition: In the first look of the music video, Doja Cat rocks a low-cut dress with a rainbow striped pattern. She ties the look together with thick hoop earrings, curled pigtails, standout lashes, and a nude lip.

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Sparkling Sensation: Doja Cat dazzles in this silver dress encompassed by sequins. She completes the look with statement hoop earings, bright blue eyeshadow, and the perfect nude lip.

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Vanity Dreams: Inside a house with glass walls tinted in various bold colors, Doja Cat gazes adoringly at her reflection in this lighted vanity mirror. Again, bold looks are the name of the game for this music video. Doja Cat dons a sparkly purple dress complemented by baby blue eyeshadow.

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Dancing Queen: Doja Cat channels her inner TikTok star, performing the signature dance that played such an important role in popularizing her song. Perhaps her boldest look in the video, she wears a pink number adorned with large butterflies paired with Barbie-esque hot pink heels.

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Disco Fever: Doja Cat transforms into a disco ball from head to toe and heads to the roller rink. It’s the perfect throwback look, incredibly flattering and accurate to the golden age of disco. Doja Cat even has the makeup to match, with silver glittery eyeshadow. She is absolutely ready to bust out her grooviest moves on the dance floor.

The Dancing

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Doja Cat’s homage to the TikTok dance that popularized “Say So” has received well-deserved acclaim. She not only performs the dance herself in the video but also brings in 17-year-old Haley Sharpe, better known as yodelinghaley, the creator of the dance. This is a significant move in a time where young creators not being properly credited has generated much controversy.

The story of 14-year-old Jalaiah Harmon has been particularly notable. Harmon created a viral dance, known as “Renegade,” to K Camp’s song “Lottery.” She posted a video of her doing the dance to Funimate and Instagram. The dance eventually found its way to TikTok when a user named @global.jones posted a modified version of it. The user failed to properly credit Harmon, so when the dance blew up and countless users began doing the dance themselves, no one knew who to credit. No one has benefitted more from the dance than 15-year-old Charli D’Amelio, who became an overnight TikTok sensation for her dancing videos. Although D’Amelio never explicitly claimed credit for the dance, many people attributed it to her.

New York Times eventually reported on Harmon’s frustration at not receiving credit for the dance she had created. In response, D’Amelio and other popular TikTok creators have been meeting up with Harmon to dance to her original Renegade dance together. Harmon is now receiving due credit for her creation, but it still remains that D’Amelio received many opportunities that were rightfully Harmon’s. D’Amelio has been invited to a number of professional sporting events and fashion shows and even appeared in a Super Bowl commercial. People are particularly outraged by the fact that these opportunities that should have gone to a young black creator were instead handed to a white one.

In light of this controversy, Doja Cat’s decision to include Haley Sharpe in the “Say So” music video stands out as an important step in proper accreditation. Sharpe’s dance certainly played a major role in the success of “Say So.” Countless numbers of teenagers, bemused parents, and other people have been posting video after video of the dance, with its signature punch and body roll. Even celebrities such as James Charles and Oscar winner Laura Dern have been captured doing the dance. Sharpe’s appearance in the music video is an important step in the recognition of young creators.

The fact that “Say So” achieved mass popularity through TikTok also indicates that TikTok is becoming an increasingly influential platform for trends. The app has often been dismissed in the past due to its primarily Gen Z demographic as well as conspiracies that it is a tool used by the Chinese government for surveillance. But as the app has been increasing in popularity, it has already achieved widespread influence on trends, particularly in terms of music. “Say So” is only one of many songs, including Joji’s “Slow Dancing in the Dark” and Trevor Daniel’s “Falling” that have, in part, been popularized by the social media platform. TikTok is becoming a force to be reckoned with, and Doja Cat’s inclusion of the “Say So” dance in her music video is an important acknowledgement of that.

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Casual Tattoos: The Art of Storytelling

Not too long ago, I sat down in Ex Libris with my good friend Ariana after a bit of a rough day. We started talking a bit about everything, and suddenly our conversation shifted to tattoos. She had gotten a bigger piece on her tricep a couple months prior, and was looking to get a new one soon. I wanted to get another one soon, too; I wanted to get a bunch of them, honestly. When she asked what I wanted in the future, I was stumped a bit. What did I want to get? I know I wanted more, but what exactly did I want?

Turns out we both felt the same way: we had these vague ideas of what we wanted on our bodies forever, but nothing set in stone. Except for the stick and poke she was planning on getting soon, anyways. Suddenly I started to think, shouldn’t you talk about tattoos with some certainty? Shouldn’t you know what you’d want to put on your body forever? The answer, I think, is not always. There’s a beauty in the casualty that’s been emerging for a while in our culture. You should write about this, Ariana said. And so I am, thanks to her. 

There’s been a shift in the culture of tattooing, one that opens up multitudes of non-traditional styles. There’s a space for illustrative artists—expressionism, abstract work, minimalism, and surrealism have been on the rise compared to traditional counterparts (which are equally beautiful, don’t get me wrong). Stick-and-poke tattoos as well have been on the rise for a while, in comparison to the traditional gun. Artists have been creating more flash pieces, which are beautiful and efficient in their own right. There is a freedom, there, in opening up this space for artists of all kinds. 

FLASH TATTOOS RANGE WIDELY

IN STYLE AND INTRICACY

Tattooing is a remarkable art form, and it has a long, ancient history that signifies the human experience: from rituals and rites, to life and death. This history is paramount, and it’s essential to acknowledge it. It’s also important to acknowledge how lucky I am to exist in a culture where tattoos have become mainstream—I won't be seen as rebellious, nor am I very likely to be shamed or denied from a job position because of mine. I’m grateful to be able to have this agency over my body.

PINK RHINO TATTOO IN BOYSTOWN

I got my first tattoo on September 16th of last year. The funny thing is, it was supposed to be 3 days prior, on September 13th. Friday the 13th, to be specific.

My long-time best friend Sofia and I had been wanting to get our first tattoos since forever, and this was a perfect opportunity. We didn’t have much money to splurge on commissions, and even then we didn’t really know what we wanted, anyways. We just wanted something on our bodies, plain and simple.

What better option did we have than spooky, discounted flash tattoos? It felt like we had a master plan, and for weeks we were giddy with excitement.

Friday the 13th came and so, finally, we went.

Our entire train ride was full of skittish nerves and undeniable thrill. It’s laughable to think back on now, how nervous we were. We played a game of rock-paper-scissors to decide who’d get tattooed first—winner goes second. I won, thankfully, and so I felt a little more at ease knowing she’d have to find out how it felt first (as bad as that sounds, but I know she’d feel the same way if it was me who lost). When we arrived and saw the huge line outside of the shop, we knew we’d be there for a while. We parked ourselves in the back of the line, and as time went on we decided to sit. We chatted with the group of kids to our left, a collective antsiness and boredom rising within all of us. I don’t even remember how long we were in that line—it had to be no less than five hours. We felt delirious at that point: our initial excitement was dwindling into exasperation, and at this point we started to give up. By no means were we upset at the artists: their job is ridiculously hard, and I can’t imagine the pressure and exhaustion that comes with a line of people down the block waiting on you for ink. We were just a bit mad at the world.

Eventually 10 o’clock hit, and the shop decided to give out vouchers for those who didn’t want to wait in line anymore. We got them, grabbed some McDonald’s, and wallowed in our misery. At that point, we couldn’t help but laugh at how ridiculous we felt. We went back on Monday, with the addition of her boyfriend Cody, and this time there was no line. We finally got to take a look at all the flash tattoos in the books (even though we had some idea of what we wanted already) and decide for sure. I saw mine, a broken wishbone with the text WISH ME LUCK! and immediately knew I needed it. I was drawn to it instinctively, and I didn’t want to overthink it too much. And so, I got it. Sofia first, me second, Cody last. It didn’t hurt, and when the needle hit my skin I just knew I could get more and more. I loved everything about it.

And I think there’s some magic in that. The three of us simply liked them, so we got them on our skin forever. 

And no, I’m not promoting going and getting inked up on a whim (even though that’s kind of what we’ve been doing for the last couple of months). If it’s something that’s not for you, that’s completely fine. But if you’ve been on the fence or thinking a little too hard about it, I say go with your gut. Get something small in a place just for you, or get something big and bold that everyone can see. It is by no means a shallow form of self-expression for just wanting something that you think is beautiful or interesting on your body.

The ability to form a relationship with an artist you admire, to commission a piece with them because it means something important, is an absolutely beautiful thing. This memory, symbol, or tribute will stay with you forever. It’s an immortalization. I want to do it too, one day, when I’m ready. 

But right now, I’m not. And that’s okay, too. I don’t have many at all, but right now my tattoos are an immortalization of the stories I have when I got them. Do they mean anything? Yeah, to some extent. I was drawn to the style of my artist’s flash, it resonated with me at that moment in a way I couldn’t explain. There’s a story behind them that I won't forget. 

NON-LINKED IMAGES COURTESY OF SOFIA AND I

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"Miss Americana" : A Changed (& Very Political) Taylor Swift

It was spring when I landed in Midway Airport by myself, for the first time.

“Welcome to New York” blasted from my earbuds. Of course, Chicago isn’t New York. But, for the first time in my life, I was living alone in a big city. And Taylor Swift’s lyrics exemplified the pride and happiness that accompanied such a realization.

And while walking through the airport listening to 1989 is one of my most vivid memories of listening to her music, Taylor Swift has provided an important soundtrack to many events in my life. Whenever I came home from a difficult day of eighth grade or freshman year, I listened to “Mean,” to remind myself that someday I was going to be “living in a big’ol city.” Throughout high school, I listened to “Bad Blood” and “Look What you Made me Do” and “Mine.” I laughed with Taylor Swift as I listened to “This is Why We Can’t Have Nice Things.” And when I graduated from high school, I wrote my mom a thank you letter. I wanted to thank my mom for always treating me as both an equal and a friend; she always listened to me, from discussing my school day on the drive home, to reading every draft of my writing. And yet, the “right” phrasing of gratitude eluded me. And so, I turned to Taylor Swift’s lyrics, as I had done so many times before - because the lyrics of “The Best Day” just got it right. And I knew that, as I searched for the right words, Taylor Swift had them. And to this day, my Taylor Swift playlist is titled “Words,” because they have always been my favorite part of her music.

Taylor Swift performing, during her 1989 World Tour.

I have never been the type of person who follows the lives of celebrities closely. I don’t read People Magazine. I don’t follow the Kardashians on Instagram. I know absolutely nothing about the latest celebrity breakup. But, I always listen when the news is about Taylor Swift. I stay up until midnight for her album and music video releases. I celebrated my 16th birthday at her 1989 concert and I rushed to Target, to purchase both versions of her Reputation magazine. And I was always proud that I could support her work, even in my own small way. In short, Taylor Swift has been one of my strongest role models. She and her lyrics have been there, throughout my life - as an example of what it means to be strong without apology, of what it means to be eloquent and poised but also compassionate.

And so, when she shared her political beliefs for the first time, I supported her. I didn't agree with everything she said. I didn’t support the same candidates as her or vote for the same political party, but I respected and admired her voice. And I would never want to silence that voice.

“She and her lyrics have been there, throughout my life - as an example of what it means to be strong without apology, of what it means to be eloquent and poised but also compassionate. And so, when she shared her political beliefs for the first time, I supported her. ”

However, I have become increasingly saddened by her failure to facilitate civility. I hoped that she would act as a much-needed voice of compassion in the political realm. And yet, there is nothing compassionate about Taylor Swift liking a Tumblr meme of herself kicking Republicans. And while Democratic fans will argue that it was one like, that single like is nonetheless significant. The Taylor Swift who I thought I knew - the one who sued for only $1, who stood with poise when Kanye took the microphone from her, and who always made time for her family and friends - was not the type of person who would ever, even jokingly, contribute to the vitriol and hatred of current American politics.

And Taylor Swift’s first political comments are especially timely and impactful, given the tension of the current American political system. No doubt, this is her point: as she discusses politics in Miss Americana, she clearly cares deeply about the beliefs she professes. She means what she says. And her efforts to support the gay community, to encourage strong women, and to spread inclusivity should be applauded. America needs more voices of unity and encouragement, right now. However, the problem is that the new, politically vocal Taylor Swift is inclusive and supportive, only insofar as her fans agree with her politics - i.e., only insofar as they too are card-carrying Democrats. 

“However, the problem is that the new, politically vocal Taylor Swift is inclusive and supportive, only insofar as her fans agree with her politics - i.e., only insofar as they too are card-carrying Democrats. ”

And by dismissing and critiquing all Republicans, Taylor Swift not only fails to recognize the many strong Republicans actively working to improve America, but she also encourages the current climate of hateful political rhetoric. After all, as politics become increasingly emotional for Americans, there’s a frightening tendency for individuals to view their political opponents, not just as people with different policy solutions, but as immoral, despicable enemies. We now live in a country where liberals are wrongly mocked as “pampered, latte-drinking snowflakes” and conservatives are erroneously dismissed and silenced as “uninformed, deplorable, bigots and racists.” And the problem is that both sides talk past one another. And there is no room for progress in a country so divided. If Americans can’t unite over their similarities and shared interests, then they have no hope of reaching solutions that work for the entire country. 

Taylor Swift speaks in the Miss Americana trailer.

And angry political lamentations or spur-of-the-moment political tweets by celebrities don’t inspire thoughtful bills in Congress, nor do they facilitate introspection or encourage civility. On the contrary, American politics have become extraordinarily uncivil, while pop culture has increasingly become an echo chamber. 

As such, when Taylor Swift entered the world of politics, she possessed - and still possesses - an extraordinary opportunity to act as a voice of reason and nuance.  I hoped that she would acknowledge the complexities of modern American politics. And more than that, I hoped that she would learn from her own experiences, suffering from the critiques and whims of the masses. Her Reputation album, and her “Blank Space” music video, were both highly intelligent, humorous responses to the critiques of her naysayers. Rather than descend to hatred when she was mocked and dismissed, Taylor Swift has built a record-shattering career by rising above the animosity. And she of all people should know how painful it is to be dismissed beneath a label. 

I therefore hoped that she would work hard, not to dismiss all Republicans or all Trump Supporters, but to carefully highlight the policies she cares about, and to conscientiously advocate for the reforms she supports. In other words, I hoped and expected that she would be careful not to malign or dismiss an entire political party - especially when that population contains many of her most avid fans (just as the Democratic Party also contains many of her biggest supporters).

The point here is that people enjoy Taylor Swift’s music, regardless of their political beliefs. And she built a platform, undefined by political affiliations. By singing about mean girls and awful breakups and new beginnings, Taylor Swift has always appealed to the most vulnerable, human characteristics of her fans. Democrats and Republicans alike have shouted the lyrics to “You Belong with Me” in their cars. Fans from across the country have cried listening to “I Almost Do.” And during an election year when America is sure to be even more divided than during the midterms, we don’t need more anger. And so I found myself disappointed by her Miss Americana documentary. There are many positive aspects of the film; Taylor Swift bravely discusses her eating disorder, her family, and her need to escape the limelight. And she still speaks with her characteristic eloquence. The difference is that her enemies, and her inspiration for her latest song, “Only the Young,” are no longer ex-boyfriends. They are Republicans. And her critiques of Republicans are less rooted in policy analysis than they are in emotion. 

“By singing about mean girls and awful breakups and new beginnings, Taylor Swift has always appealed to the most vulnerable, human characteristics of her fans. Democrats and Republicans alike have shouted the lyrics to “You Belong with Me”...”

And I find this new, political rhetoric saddening. Taylor Swift absolutely has the right to speak freely, and she should. But, she should also remember that her words matter; they matter to fans like me, who have looked up to her, throughout their lives. Her words matter to Republicans and Democrats alike. And, she is right to acknowledge her platform; she possesses the ability to change things. But, as she continues to fight for what she believes, I hope that she remembers her Republican fans. I hope that she remembers that we too cheered for her, during her 1989 tour. I hope she remembers that we rushed to Target to buy her new releases, that we got in arguments defending her transition from country to pop, and that we too shout the lyrics to her Lover album.

And I hope she knows that we don’t need more anger from celebrities who possess the power to unite America. 

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A Review of a Classic Russian Thriller: "The Queen of Spades"

A soldier obsesses over his desire to learn three winning cards. A young woman trusts a nighttime intruder and is tainted and destroyed. A prince loses his fiancée and challenges his enemy to a game of chance. And an aging countess tries to regain her former beauty.

As one of Alexander Pushkin’s most renowned works, “The Queen of Spades” is a complex psychological tale of madness and greed. It is a classic Russian thriller. And Tchaikovsky’s rendition at the Lyric Opera of Chicago only increases the drama. There’s more death, more romance, and more tragedy. Viewers are left shocked, not just by the impressive music and settings, but also by the intense suffering and mania of the main character, Gherman.

As four hours pass by, Gherman’s situation becomes increasingly dire. He crawls on the roof of a young woman’s bedroom - managing, impressively, to sing all the while. He points a gun at an old woman. And he bets everything he has on a card game. As such, while I was sometimes frustrated by Tchaikovsky’s deviations from the original Pushkin tale, the opera was captivating. After writing a paper all afternoon, I managed, not only to stay awake for the entirety of the show, but to become fully immersed in the stories of the characters - which is a high compliment from an opera rookie, who was reading subtitles at 11:00pm, in order to understand the lyrics.

More than that, as an undergraduate who rarely leaves Hyde Park these days, I’ve learned to really celebrate the moments I spend downtown. My Russian professors obtained the tickets for my classmates and I; and they kindly provided the opportunity for us to get dressed up and see the show for free. We spent the night amidst the glamour of opera societies and ball gowns and greed-themed mixed drinks. My former Russian language professor showed me how to check out opera glasses for the first time. And my friend and I marveled at how much they helped us see the performers’ expressions, from the upper balcony. More than that, we felt like we’d entered Vronsky’s race in Anna Karenina, and this made us happy.

During intermission, my friend and I ordered popcorn and wandered the opera. We were surrounded by jewels, heels, and immaculate suits - and the people watching only added to the glamorous atmosphere.

“The Queen of Spades” was my second experience at the Lyric Opera, and I have learned that these performances are much more than passive evenings spent staring at a stage. They are events, and they demand full engagement.

After all, it is a commitment to get all dressed up on a Saturday night, to trek across town in the cold, and to stay focused on a performance in a foreign language for hours. But, by accepting the commitment, I had the opportunity to see a different side of Chicago life, to watch as groups of friends argued in Russian over the twists of their favorite short story and as couples posed upon the opera’s "red carpet.” And, between the glamour of the venue, the sophistication of the audience, and the beauty of Tchaikovsky’s compositions, it was well worth the effort.

More Details:

When: Now-March 1

Where: The Lyric Opera of Chicago

Run-time: 3 hours 45 minutes (+2 intermissions)

Language: Russian, with English subtitles

Click here for more info.

P.S. This wasn’t the only opportunity to attend a free/discounted arts event, this Quarter! UChicago Student ID’s provide access to 70+ arts and culture venues, across the city. And while these opportunities are sometimes kept quiet on campus, they’re listed on the quarterly ArtsPass Calendar and the UChicago Arts newsletter.

конец

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Album Spotlight: Dreaming of David

With his previous album, God in Jeans, literally playing as the back drop to my senior year in high school, I had high expectations for Mr. Beatty, and I can firmly say he DID THAT.

Ryan Beatty, born and raised in California, first really emerged in 2012 with his EP Because of You. It was around this time he began to lose all creative influence and passion he had for his music; it became a chore for him, causing him to become depressed and having to take a step away from music all together.

However, he really wasn’t seen until 2017, when he started to collaborate with Brockhampton on their albums Saturation I and Saturation II. It was then 2018—when he had his “rebirth” with a new indie vibe—that my obsession began with his release of Boy in Jeans, which is one of my favorite albums of all time. You have to go give it a listen (obvi after you listen to his new album). He would later go on to collaborate more, but finally on January 31st, he released Dreaming of David.

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Dreaming of David is your synth, emotional dream. Ryan’s vocals are heavenly throughout the entireity of the album. Take sadly listening and looking out the window of a car with wind blowing in your feels combined with just straight up vibing on a fire escape, and that’s this album (but hey, that may just my emo side coming out because of this depressing winter). With this album of exploration of emotions and self-expression, Beatty creates in his own world through his music while still giving you all the emotion and attention you could ever want in an album.

With my favorite song off the album changing with every listen, this album will definitely keep my ears busy for a few months, and it is bound to become my favorite album of this year (especially the songs Dark Circles and Casino).

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The Award for Least Sustainable Goes To: Awards Shows

Grammy’s 2020

Award show season is well underway with plenty of commentary to be made about outfits, snubs, and drama, but the one thing that seems to have evaded the spotlight for the nth year in a row is the wastefulness and lack of sustainability behind the lavish yearly Hollywood ordeals.

Hear me out: I’m not coming after the practice of celebrating individuals for their contributions to music, theater, art, and pop culture in general. Instead, my point is to highlight the excessiveness of the culture surrounding awards shows. Every year, celebrities gather in events that produce massive amounts of paper and plastic waste, not to mention the environmental impact of all the one-time outfits, fossil fuels exhausted on the private jets, and limousines used for transport. 

Golden Globes 2020

Arguably, the private transportation—especially on the ground—is somewhat of a necessity given security concerns for some A-listers, and the non-reusable award show outfits are advertisements for the celebrities, the projects they are involved in, and the designers that create red carpet looks. It could even be argued that American consumerism and obsession with demonstrated wealth is what drives the cycle and curiosity surrounding Hollywood’s showy lifestyles. But lately it seems like those that we idolize (or those that we are conditioned to idolize by tabloids, if you want to think about it that way) reflect public and global concerns increasingly less. It is undeniable that celebrity voices have lent spotlights to foundations doing good work, and that in recent years many have been more outspoken on issues with the entertainment industry and greater injustices in the world. However, this all becomes a little sour when the hypocrisy of the institutions that they participate in is considered…

How many private jets are flown into awards shows? How about the idling lines of limos that each celebrity takes? The napkins used at every table? How much food from the on and off-set dining menus is tossed out into landfill without being touched? If we’re going to talk about the unsustainability of fast fashion, why should we keep to a double standard that wags its finger at companies that offer clothing for affordable prices to the general public rather than the amount of resources used to create single use suits and dresses for red carpets?

SAG Awards 2020

The fact of the matter is that celebrities have a unique platform to elevate important causes, but advocacy seems to only infiltrate Hollywood selectively. If celebrities and awards shows really wanted to set an example and take a stand for the issues that so many in Hollywood claim to be invested in, they should find ways to reduce the environmental impact of and the waste produced by these events that are attended by a relatively small circle of people. 

Re-evaluating the orders put in for supplies and food for awards shows is a place to start. Few celebrities actually eat at awards shows—instead choosing to eat before arriving—and the leftovers get put in landfill, contributing to the 3rd largest cause of methane emissions in the US. On the celebrity side, reconsidering transportation options to red carpet events and repeating outfits (quelle horreur!) are ways to reduce individual impact and start to change the wasteful culture surrounding awards shows. 

This season has already demonstrated attempts to be conscious of these concerns. The Golden Globes changed the menu to entirely vegan dishes in an effort to control for the agricultural impact of serving filet mignon for hundreds of people that likely won’t eat it anyway. Joaquin Phoenix has announced that he is partnering with Stella McCartney to wear the same suit to every award show he attends this season in an effort to reduce waste. But these are only two specific cases of change.

In a time when awards show viewership has hit the lowest point in 8 years, we need to ask whether it is enough, whether the entertainment industry is keeping up with global concerns, and whether they’ll demonstrates a willingness to walk the walk instead of just talking the sustainability talk.

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Images via here, here, here, here, here.

Netflix Original: Cheer

Full disclosure. The purpose of this piece is to get everyone to watch the new Netflix docuseries Cheer because take it from me: this show is truly the most wholesome, exciting, nerve-racking, and emotional production of television I have seen in a while. The show is a six episode series that follows the journey of a community college cheer team towards winning a national title in Daytona, Florida. The school, Navarro College, is literally in the middle of nowhere-Texas in a town called Corsicana, yet the cheer team is known across the country, attracting students from across the country. The town truly has no other products other than an award winning junior college cheer team, so they’re kind of a big deal as you can imagine. 

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While the show is focused on cheerleading, and you will see girls get thrown in the air, people flipping across the stage, and a ton of injuries, what separates Cheer from another similar reality TV counterpart like Dance Moms is the team coach, Monica Aldama. For many of the kids on the team she is the mother figure they never had; she isn’t mean but she’s strict, you won’t catch her screaming or making kids sob, but you’ll see her push their bodies to endure unimaginable pain. This show has undeniably become an instant hit and that is largely due to revealing what some of the members have gone through in their pasts and how its led them to being on the team at Navarro. You will learn of the members dealing with homelessness, suicide, losing parents, sexual and domestic abuse, and despite it all, they still choose to go to college and pursue their goal of winning a national title. 

Prior to watching this show I knew absolutely nothing about cheer, and truthfully I only started watching it because I had nothing else to do. I did not expect to laugh or cry or feel so nervous at their performance in Daytona, but I really became invested in the members. This docuseries isn’t like classic reality TV where we watch for the drama or to see grown women scream at 12 year old’s to point their toes; it was refreshing to see that people with different values and backgrounds were able to support each other towards one common goal.

The show highlights how cheer is different from other sports in that it basically ends with college–there is no professional competitive cheer, so for many of the members of the team they spend their whole lives working towards winning with Navarro College, and then are forced into retirement. If it isn’t obvious enough already I loved this show, and my only complaint is that I wish there were more episodes. And while a season 2 hasn’t been formally announced yet, I think if Netflix knows what’s good for it, they will continue the show. 

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Albums to Anticipate In 2020

2019 was quite a year of music, and multitudes of artists have hinted at releasing new records for the new decade. Teasing from the likes of Hayley Williams, Troye Sivan, Noname, Japanese Breakfast, and many more musicians keeps us on our toes, and long-time anticipation for artists like Frank Ocean and Rihanna leave us hanging by a thread. But, even with all the amazing releases we got last year, there is still so much music out there we didn’t know we needed. Here are four releases—in no particular order— that everyone should keep an eye on in the future.

King Krule: Man Alive! → February 21st

King Krule via

Archy Marshall—best known by stage name King Krule—recently announced his third studio album Man Alive! Set to release on February 21st, Marshall kicked off his announcement by dropping the self-directed music video for (Don’t let the Dragon) Draag On. 

Album art for Man Alive! via

After sharing the short film Hey World! (directed by himself and his partner, Charlotte Patmore) in December of last year, fans were on their toes, eagerly awaiting his follow up to 2017’s The Ooz.

If you’ve seen the film, you’ve already heard the stripped, acoustic versions of four songs that’ll appear on Man Alive! (Perfecto Miserable, Energy Fleets, Alone… Omen 3, and (Don’t let the Dragon) Draag On). Archy will set out on his tour of Europe and North America in March.

Listen to the single (Don’t Let The Dragon) Draag On below.

Tame Impala: The Slow Rush → February 14

Kevin Parker onstage via

Approaching nearly 5 years since Tame Impala’s last studio album Currents, it’s safe to say that fans have been anticipating a new project for a while now.

Album art for The Slow Rush via

Though it’s been quite some time since the release of a full album, Tame Impala’s Kevin Parker has been nothing but generous in sharing music for his fans. After dropping Borderline and Patience earlier in 2019, and tracks It Might Be Time and Posthumous Forgiveness in late December, Parker most recently dropped Lost In Yesterday on January 8th, the last release before the full album.

Dreamy and nostalgic, Tame Impala’s fourth studio album The Slow Rush will be released on February 14th.

Check out the most recent release, Lost In Yesterday, below.

The Garden: Kiss My Super Bowl Ring → March 13

Fletcher (left) and Wyatt (right) Shears via by Cowgirl Clue

Album art for Kiss My Super Bowl Ring via

An eclectic duo hailing from Orange County, California, twins Wyatt and Fletcher Shears of The Garden recently announced a release date for their new album, Kiss My Super Bowl Ring, along with the single Clench To Stay Awake. The duo’s sound is best described as rattling and unpredictable, spinning their own creative twist on punk-inspired roots.

It’s an edge all their own, and having been to two of their shows myself, their showmanship and style (conceptually and aesthetically speaking) is like no other. 

With a multitude of albums and LPs under their belt since their formation in 2011, the duo’s new album Kiss My Super Bowl Ring drops on March 13th, following the release of Mirror Might Steal Your Charm in 2018. The Garden will embark on their tour of North America starting this March.

Listen to the single Clench To Stay Awake below.

The 1975: Notes On a Conditional Form → February 21

The 1975 via

Originally set to drop February 21st, 4-piece band The 1975 pushed back their release of Notes On A Conditional Form to April, and even rescheduled their European tour back in December to perfect it. 

Album art for Notes On A Conditional Form via

A follow up to A Brief Inquiry Into Online Relationships in 2018, the group dropped a couple of tracks in anticipation of the full body of work, including Frail State Of Mind, People, and Me & You Together Song. Frontman Matty Healy described Me & You Together Song as sad (but lovely), and even made the track for an apparent film he started writing.

Healy also teased the roll-out of three more tracks before the full release in the spring, potentially. 

Though not officially confirmed, Healy ballparked the release of Notes On A Conditional Form to be April 24th, and fans of the group are patiently awaiting their music until then. 

Hear their most recent release, Me & You Together Song, below.

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2020 Small Space Reno: Wall-Inspiration from 5 Etsy Shops

February is a beast of a month. The weather is brutal, the holiday season is over, and classes are in full swing. And as I trudged to lectures this week - first in a snow storm, then in a downpour, and lastly in thick fog - I realized how easy it would be to succumb to the winter doldrums. After all, it’s too cold to be outside for long, coursework is piling up, and the sun is increasingly a stranger.

As such, while I battled my way through the wind and rain this evening, I couldn’t help planning ahead for my apartment next year: the colors, the furniture, “the theme.” And I realized that, while living plans are still undetermined for most of us, there’s no reason why we can’t renovate our current homes right now.

My hope for the following list is to provide an escape from Chicago - to encourage momentary wanderlust, future planning, and a brief respite from the obligations of every day life. So pour yourself a cup of tea, find a warm blanket, and start brainstorming; a brief renovation might just be the key to warding off the February blues.

1. Dick Vincent from Manchester, UK

2. Papio Press from Penzance, UK

3. Wall Arty from Istanbul, Turkey

4. Eye Poetry Photography from Montreal, Canada

5. Pink Palm Decor from Gdansk, Poland

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Artists to Watch: Trove

Made in Australia but quickly catching on all over the world, International Pop Singer, Songwriter and Producer Trove is Music’s next big star. Noted for his mix of organic and electronic beats, Trove brings the worlds of live instrumentation and digital exploration together to produce music that is powerful, emotional and unmistakably individual. I was lucky enough to chat with him about his new song, ‘Cyclone’ and his Selftitled EP ‘Trove’ and the artist himself gave us a look into his creative process, his aspirations and what it means to be a music producer in the new decade.

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Hi Trove, nice to chat with you! Congratulations on your new song ‘Cyclone’ and your new EP ‘Trove’; we’re absolutely loving it here at MODA Blog. For our readers who aren’t quite as familiar with you, why don’t you go ahead and let us know a little bit about yourself? How you got into the industry, where you began to discover music and producing, and a quick summary of your journey?

Thanks so much! Glad you like the new song. I started out playing drums and guitar as a kid and shortly went to piano and singing as a teenager. I had played in a band back home in Australia and ended up touring the country and releasing multiple records across a period of 8 years. The band broke up and I decided to move to LA to pursue my own solo endeavours. I had been producing for a few years prior, learning from other producers that my band had worked with and also doing a million different online courses/messing around with things. Once I moved to LA, I signed a publishing deal and a record deal, said yes to absolutely every writing session I could and slowly built a really good group of friends and collaborators around me. Fast forward two years later and I have just put out my debut EP, played a couple festivals including SXSW and Sundance and have had my songs featured in a handful of different TV shows and commercials. 

As I said earlier, MODA Blog absolutely loves ‘Cyclone’, I’m curious about how it got put together; let’s start with what the inspiration for the song was?

This is actually one of those songs that didn't come together quite so easily. I wrote it two years ago ( the month I moved to LA actually) and it was originally for a DJ collaboration. When that collaboration didn't work out, I still really wanted to use the song as I genuinely really liked what I wrote. I then produced 5 different version over the next year and a half, none of which quite fit with the vocals so I left it alone for 6 months knowing that it was going to be the final song on the EP. When it was time for the release to be planned, I sat down and revisited it and it all came together in a matter of days. The final version that you hear, is the final version from my computer.

Generally do you find that themes or elements that influenced ‘Cyclone’ also influenced some of your other works? And in that same vein, is there something consistent that you’ve found in the kind of music you make?

I think all of my songs have a certain lyrical aspect in them that I would say represents me and how I like to express my stories and feelings. In terms of the concept of Cyclone, there have definitely been other songs written based around the same influences. In a weird way, it set the tone for the first kind of music I wrote when I moved here and then was the very last song that came together for the EP so I think there were definitely some moments of trying to pull from that.

Do you have any artistic influences for your work? Artists, sounds, experiences?

I love so many different kinds of music it's hard to pin it down to a single genre or artist. I feel most inspired when I hear someone say something in a unique way or a production sound I think is really cool. Experiences are probably the biggest influence for my music. I would have nothing to write about if I didn't go out and live my life and I have really made a point of doing that the past 12 months and I have the stories to prove it!

We know that you have quite an impressive musical background from learning classical instruments like piano, guitar and drums while also training yourself vocally and now incorporating digital sounds, I’m interested to hear about your process. When you write a song, where do the sounds and rhythms come from?

For the most part, I write to a guitar/piano chord progression that I come up with. I start with the bare minimum and if I think it holds it own for my own personal taste, I will then build a drum beat and start putting the building blocks together. One of the things I am most thankful for is that drums was my main instruments for so many years and also the first that I learned, so it has really helped me understand rhythm and the backbone of any song. 

I love to work collaboratively, but Cyclone was completely independent and I really notice a difference between the two. I don't think either is better or worse, I do think that there is a time and place for both. Sometimes collaborators can pull ideas out of you that you never knew you had and vice versa. However, some songs need to be kept for yourself and I've really worked on my production skills to a point where I feel comfortable doing it all myself if I feel the desire!

Do you think about expressing a certain emotion, narrative or experience to a listener and what effect do you want your music to have on them?

I just want people to hear my music and relate to it in some way. I think we all go through very similar things in life and the emotion or situation I am dealing with in my current life is definitely something somebody else is going through in their own way. If my music can help people realize they're not alone in it, then I feel like I have succeeded in the reason I create music in the first place.

And moving on, I’ve heard you’re doing quite a bit of travelling recently, any interesting stories to share?

I visited 13 countries in 2019 and really took some time to see new parts of the world. A couple standouts:

• I got horrific food poisoning in Morocco and had to go to hospital, where I burst two veins in my nose from the fever, spilling blood everywhere.

• I drove through a blizzard from Nashville to LA and almost slid off the road, cracked my windshield and genuinely feared for my life

• I didn't pay for a train ticket in Berlin and got pulled off the train by two inspectors twice my size where they walked me to an ATM and charged me 60 Euros

• I went to a cafe with my label manager in Amsterdam where we smoked a joint and I got so high, I had to get him to call me an uber where I then made the driver drive around my block half a dozen times because I had no idea where I was until he eventually kicked me out and I had to find my way home for the next 45 minutes

Hello from a rooftop very far away from home. Had a couple thoughts about this year and whilst musically it was great, I've felt more impacted by the other things that are so easy to avoid. I cut my social media usage in half, I read multiple books, saw 13 different countries, cut back significantly on meat consumption, started physical and mental therapy and taught myself a couple new tricks in between. Really looking forward to continued learning and new music in 2020 starting with my first EP coming out Jan 3 coupled with a single called 'Cyclone'. ⛈ Merry Christmas ps today's lesson is not to put unsealed packets of cheese in your pocket lmao 🙂

310 Likes, 16 Comments - TROVE (@listentotrove) on Instagram: "Hello from a rooftop very far away from home. Had a couple thoughts about this year and whilst..."

Come have a drink with me and @jasonfrizzell this thanksgiving

203 Likes, 6 Comments - TROVE (@listentotrove) on Instagram: "Come have a drink with me and @jasonfrizzell this thanksgiving"

And now that you’ve entered 2020, dropped an EP of four songs, what else are youplanning for the new decade?

I'm currently in the middle of putting a collaborative EP with my very talented friend James Droll. We just dropped the first single and the second one comes out on Valentine's Day and it's called 'Nothing Matters Then We Die' :) The second Trove EP will be out later this year too!

“Sometimes things don’t work out the way you plan, but as long as you love the work and love creating, you’ll always be happy. ”

If you could give advice to your younger self or perhaps to any of our readers who are
considering a career in music, what would you say?

To my younger self: be kind to yourself, your inner critic has nothing to do with who you are

To others: Write, write, write. Continuously develop your skills and find a love for learning. Move to bigger cities where collaboration is more present and also be kind to yourself. Never give up! I've been doing this for 10 years now and I just put out my debut EP lol. Sometimes things don't work out the way you plan, but as long as you love the work and love creating, you'll always be happy. 

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You can check out Trove’s work on his Site, Instagram, Twitter and Facebook

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The Complexity of Referential Art

Famed Instagram account @diet_prada has been on a vigilante crusade to expose the exploitation, racism, and plagiarism pervasive in the fashion industry. Their mission is to prove that toxic and problematic practices are economically optimal for the companies that engage in them, and as consumers we have the power to endorse them or not. The challenger: @insidethemood, taking a more benevolent look at the ripple effects of iconic art, promoted by popular fashion bloggers Evan Ross Katz, Pam Boy, and Luke Meagher.

For the uninitiated: Diet Prada is the unofficial-official fashion watchdog, with over a million followers and an entrenched industry presence that gets them invited to the major shows. They put companies on blast for a murderers row of industry sins such as cultural appropriation, racism, and sexual harassment, but they’re most infamous for their penchant to spot designer plagiarism and #callitout.

“Have we seen this before? @Moschino showed a Pre-Fall collection heavy on Fellini references yesterday at Rome’s Cinecittà Studios, but they look a lil familiar lol. An aesthetic departure from the brand’s signature camp, the historical hairstyles, embellishments referencing the 16th century jeweled skeletons of Christian martyrs, and even Leigh Bowery-esque fetish masks were all present at @gucci‘s Resort 2019 show in Arles last May. Dieters, coincidence or too close for comfort?” —@diet_prada.

Designer knockoffs have always been rampant but in the age of irreverent “normcore” and hoodie-dominated streetwear, the thirst for creativity and originality is sky high. Enter Diet Prada—social media has ensured that the punishment for stealing such creativity has never been more damning. They often post Instagram stories asking their followers to chime in on whether something is valid or merely a knockoff, and most of their captions suggest foul play when it comes to the comparisons they draw between similar styles.

But callout culture has made the line between an homage and a knock off quite thin, and here I turn to @insidethemood. Their bio reads “discover where inspiration comes from… art, fashion, a photo, a film, a real person…” Their posts consist of side by side photos, drawing parallels between them and often diving into the cultural significance of the given similarity. They look at anything that may have informed the aesthetic of a garment or collection, from iconic art to silly pop culture references. 

“JUST FOR FUN: Darth Vader, “Star Wars” || Valentino, Fall 2019” — @insidethemood.

Memes are born of a constructed sense of shared referentiality, and Inside the Mood often includes “JUST FOR FUN” comparisons, creating a particularly meta reflection on shared pop cultural understanding. Inside the Mood is my favorite account because my love of fashion, and pop culture as a whole, comes from my love of history.

I love the nexus between cultural creation and consumption—how we process the world around us and channel those perspectives into art and media that demonstrate our points of view. The result is a sprawling cultural mythology that tracks the trends, progress and problems of any given society or place.

“FROM A FASHION ICON: Jaqueline Kennedy, 60’s || Zoe Kravitz in custom Oscar de la Renta, SAG Awards 2020” — @insidethemood

In contrast to Diet Prada, Inside the Mood has only 32k followers. It’s clear where the cultural tide is on calling things out vs. looking to the past as a legacy that consistently shapes the present. Like I said, it’s a fine line—if you give me the “cultural legacy” argument for a Fashion Nova ripoff, I’d laugh in your face. The environmental dangers of Fashion Nova’s fast fashion empire aside, there is a point to be made: who determines what falls on which side of that fine line? Who determines the valid art from the exploitative trash?

Prestige and cultural value is often hinged on the price of the item, the reputation of the designer or the quality of the products, which leads to the even larger question of who gets to be validated for their art. Historically, designers of color haven’t received credit for their pioneering aesthetics, producing groundbreaking and zeitgeist-shaping content only to have it popularized by those outside of their cultures. Restoring long overdue credit to such artists is a vital task that Diet Prada often attends to. It’s important to analyze the complexities of the high art vs. low art distinction, but that’s not the point I’m attempting to make here.

“ON AND ON: Givenchy, “Funny Face” 1957 || Givenchy by Claire Waight Keller, Fall 2018 Couture || Paul and Joe, Spring 2020” — @insidethemood.

In every aspect of life, it’s beneficial to be attentive to history, and fashion is no exception. Nostalgia is one of the most valuable media currencies of our time, with many designers breaking out their greatest hits in recent seasons (see: Fendi’s Baguette, Dior’s saddle bag, That Green Versace Dress, to name a few). Every idea comes from somewhere, and no artist lives in a silo of their own genius-level creativity. Acknowledging an homage isn’t merely letting it off the hook for copying something else, but rather appreciating the legacy and influence of the piece it references.

TL;DR—I don’t have an end all, be all answer for what counts as plagiarism and what is a valuable, meaningful tribute to another piece of art. Follow both accounts and make decisions at your own discretion!

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Feature image via (FROM ART: Eugene Ionesco, “The three faces of Hélène Cixious, 1955 || JLo wearing a Heidilee Swarovski mask, 2019).

How I Learned To Stop Worrying And Love Winter White

Serial Mom’s final victim meets her fate. Image via

“You can’t wear white after Labor Day!” proclaimed John Waters’ Serial Mom, in which an unhinged suburbanite murders people for breaking social rules or committing the slightest faux pas. I was raised on this outdated rule but luckily, my childhood media addiction and near constant consumption of movies opened my mind and showed me the great wide world of winter white!

The historical fashion tenet that states white is a strictly summer color has practical and societal origins—white reflects the sun for optimal coolness on blistering summer days, but it’s also prone to all kinds of stains and ruin. White clothing, dating back to the 1930’s, was a sign of luxury. Old money WASPs fled to their summer homes—away from city grime—and thus their white clothes would stay immaculate. But once they returned to life in the city they retired their white clothing, setting the trend and birthing this piece of fashion gospel.

But, as the hapless juror who wore white shoes to Serial Mom’s trial argued, “Fashion has changed!” Winter white is all the rage! A sleek way to stand out and flip off a classist adage! As in life, so in art: here are some iconic winter white looks from film:

White Christmas (1954)

This is the perfect holiday party outfit, case closed. Balancing the perfect line between classy, sexy, refined, and seasonally appropriate (see: turtleneck and argyle print). Also, sparkles!

Basic Instinct (1992)

This may be cheating? The movie was set in San Francisco so I really don’t know if it was winter, but she was wearing a coat so I’m counting it anyway. The outfit was a mere prop in this (in)famous moment in which Sharon Stone, um, gives us all she’s got. No one remembers this cute look because it’s, um, what’s inside that counts. If you’re confused, Google this bit of scandalous cinematic history.

Maid in Manhattan (2002)

The “borrowed” outfit that snagged the guy! My heart palpitated when her coat got stuck on that magazine she sat on…

Last Holiday (2006)

Things that upset me: that this is the best quality image of this outfit I could find on the entirety of Google, that no one has seen this movie, and that Queen Latifah’s character didn’t buy this outfit. Catch me petitioning to get it preserved by the National Film Registry because it is undoubtedly “culturally, historically and aesthetically significant.”

The Devil Wears Prada (2008)

The hat! The gloves! The (probably, I don’t remember) Sidekick phone! I miss the early ‘00s!

First Wives Club (1996)

The indisputable queens of winter white. An extreme amount of bonus points for wearing these looks while doing an elaborately choreographed dance to You Don’t Own Me as they conclude this 1h43m demonstration of why their respective husbands do not, in fact, own them. Honorable mentions: the usually despicable white/ecru combo and Goldie Hawn’s white leather pants.

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February Horoscopes

With winter upon us and the new month approaching, it’s about time we see what the universe’s energies have in store for us. If I’m being honest, it seems we all need the most help we can get (especially with midterms and Valentine’s day fast approaching).

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Aries

February for the ram is going to be hectic in terms of work load and ~professional~ matters. However, this hectic month will be worth it and filled with a possibility for great accomplishments. The beginning of the month also speaks to bring in a possibility of love coming ones way with Venus beginning its transit in Aries. With that being said, it is time for us born under the sign Aries to get to work for what we want and those we seek.

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Taurus

With Mars ruling your love life this month, you may be led astray, or conflict may arise with a partner. While those looking for love should explore every avenue, just go wild as they say. This month might also bring conflict with ones finances; it will require a push on your end to get the money flowing. This whole month has an air of caution for those born under Taurus, from finances to family matters (be careful lol).

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Gemini

Disharmony seems to be plaguing your relationships this month; one should try to avoid conflicts as much as possible, from your friends to your career (which should be prosperous this month), to keep a form of balance. The prospect of good health dips a little towards the end of the month, so one should focus on relaxation towards the end of the month (meaning more me time and less grind time).

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Cancer

February promises a month of growth and surprising positivity (especially in the latter end of the month). One place that won’t be too positive is family life; there seems to be some strain or imbalance that will occur this month (so basically just ghost them all until March, it's what I would do). Take the growth of this week and put it into your career, spending more time doing your work (but I’d advise not spending that time in the Reg #badvibes).

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Leo

Focusing your energy this month should be your biggest priority. Social networking and collaboration (of various kinds) will dominate your life this month—who would’ve thought. Love seems to be your domain with Mars and Venus being a big influence. So, it is about time for you to finally find the partner you’ve been complaining about finding (or if you’re in a relationship, spice things up perhaps).

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Virgo

This month will require a balance between your emotions and your physical objectives. To succeed this month, you will have to take into account both your mental needs and physical actions/ambitions. However, once this balance is achieved or at least worked at, the rest of the month in terms of relationships, health, and careers should fall into place. The only advice I have is to meditate (I have no idea how to find a balance, but good luck!)

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Libra

This moment is all about the social scene for you. Not that you tend to need the help socially, but Venus, this month, will boost your social prowess and your self esteem (but mostly your ego). Partners from this month may be of further use to follow through with your ambitions (but this is not to insuate manipulation). This month is just screaming a good time for you, Libra. Just don’t get caught up in having too much of a wild time.

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Scorpio

This month will be one to focus on emotional issues and issues that focus on those closest to you. It will be a time of self reflection and control; especially, if you intend to work through your emotions. My best advice for this month is to bunker down and wait for March to come; it’s not looking too great.

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Sagittarius

With Mars in your sign this month, those born under Sagittarius will have an abundant amount of energy. All this energy will be required when trying to complete your goals this month (just make sure to focus your energies on the things you truly desire) . The relationships, especially, will require some focus on your part (especially if you want to have someone by Valentine’s day).

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Capricorn

This month should give you a sense of airiness and direction. Venus this month will bring a romantic feel to your thoughts, but don’t let Mars thwart any relationships you are already scheming up, meaning be aware and communicate. Overall, this month will be one of growing your mental strength to accomplish your goals in the following months.

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Aquarius

The old, dreadful feeling that might’ve seemed to be following you around should dissipate this month, allowing you some peace. This will also allow for a sense of happiness to bloom in your life. Use this newly found happiness and start forming new connections this week (use that charisma this month will bring to you!!).

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Pisces

Seems like Mars will introduce a sense of aggression this month, bringing some issues into your professional life. Specifically this month, you may feel a sense of completion in your career area. Luckily for you the aggression Mars is bringing into your life will give you the energy to handle any of the obstacles you come to face this month (just hang in until March, February won’t be that long).

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The Crown Season 3: A Review

Now that the long-anticipated 3rd season of one of Netflix’s most popular T.V. shows is back, fans of the series might be wondering how Netflix has handled both the cast and storyline transition in season 3. Luckily for you, I binge watched the entire season and can sum it up for you. 

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The change in The Crown’s cast had been announced a while back and Netflix certainly took care in searching for actors to fill the shoes of Queen Elizabeth and the royal family. Once again, the casting directors have delivered and found incredible talents that have some uncanny likenesses. 

Firstly, about the cast: 

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Taking over the helm as Queen of England this season is Olivia Colman. Starting out her acting career in comedy, Colman has proven since then that her acting extends beyond comedy in range. Notably, she is the recipient of an Academy award, three Golden Globe awards (one of them recently for her acting in The Crown), and four BAFTA awards. She is no stranger to portraying British royals and powerful women on screen either; in 2012 she portrayed Queen Elizabeth in Hyde Park on Hudson, she portrayed Carol Thatcher in The Iron Lady (2011), and took on the role of Anne, Queen of Great Britain in The Favourite (2018). 

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Tobias Menzies takes on Matt Smith’s role as the Duke of Edinburgh. Previously, he has portrayed Brutus in HBO’s Rome and Edmure Tully in Game of Thrones. Season 3 of The Crown sees his character develop further, with several episodes specifically following his struggles with religion, a midlife crisis, the perception of the royal family in the press, and a fraught relationship with his mother. 

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Helena Bonham Carter steps into season 3 as an incredibly powerful choice for Margaret. You may recognize this powerhouse actress as Bellatrix Lestrange from Harry Potter or maybe the Queen of Hearts from Alice in Wonderland. She is no stranger to the big screen and, interestingly enough, has also portrayed Queen Elizabeth before in The King’s Speech (2010). Bonham Carter has worked closely with Tim Burton as well, lending her talents to Charlie and the Chocolate Factory and the Corpse Bride among other films. Her work in the arts has been recognized, including by the Queen herself: Bonham Carter is a Commander of the British Empire for her acting contributions. 

Season 3 also sees the introduction of some new faces. Prince Charles and Princess Anne, now all grown up, are portrayed by Josh O’Connor and Erin Doherty, respectively. Both young actors are active in theater, but their casting in The Crown marks a big step for them in their acting careers. Jason Watkins is also a notable addition to the cast of Season 3 for his portrayal of Prime Minister Harold Wilson. 

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Finally, a review of season 3:

The first episode of the season, “Olding,” confronts the change in cast head on by incorporating it skillfully into the plot. Much of season 3 focuses on times changing and royal family members aging or growing up. Unlike seasons 1 and 2 where it seemed like each episode dealt with the royal family covering up another one of a seemingly infinite supply of scandals, season 3 follows the members of the royal family closer on a more personal level. Queen Elizabeth’s survey of her changed profile and her somewhat dissatisfied comment on the passage of time is what initially sets up this theme for the season. The dissatisfaction with aging is not limited to the Queen, however, but also manifests itself in Prince Philip’s sudden interest in athletics and cars and Margaret’s struggle to determine whether or not she has actually grown up from her unhappy habits of drinking and smoking herself into unconsciousness in previous seasons. But this is not to say that season 3 only follows the midlife crises of the central family members (although there is plenty of that), but it also gives us a glimpse into what’s coming in the future in the form of introducing Prince Charles and Princess Anne into the family dynamic. The stories and episodes authored specifically for them show a new glimpse into their strong characters and create an undercurrent of something that appears more fresh than the onslaught of press scandals caused by younger family members in past seasons. 

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Keeping to the spirit of modernity and changing times in this season, the creators of season 3 don’t fail to include the adjustment the world is undergoing to new technologies and new times. While the radio was included as a supporting detail in previous seasons, the television, aviation, the advancement of visual media, and even man’s first trip to the Moon is documented now as passing detail, but is at the forefront of demonstrating the way the world is changing. The setting of the 1960s-1970s also introduces 70s fashion and patterns, which are best sported by Anne and the ever-fashionable Margaret in this season. Margaret and Anthony make a splash in America in this season, on a trip that sees many headlines and many 70s outfit choices by Margaret. Margaret’s spotlight culminates in a rowdy quasi-diplomatic dinner with Lyndon B. Johnson, a huge departure from the way the Kennedy’s were received by the royal family in previous seasons. 

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All in all, season 3, despite how different it is in its approach to the dramatized series on the royal family, has managed to pull off the casting overhaul and the shift in plot scope very well. Looking forward, the cast is locked in for season 4 of The Crown, the release date of which has not been announced yet. The biggest questions left for fans of this binge-worthy series are: Where is Princess Diana??? And how much more of the timeline of the British royal family will this show plan to cover?

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MODA Designer Profile: Vivian Li

Recently, I got the pleasure to sit down with first time designer Vivian Li to see what inspires her and what really is going into her work. Vivian is a first year at the college, majoring in a possibility of economics, psychology, or sociology. She spends her time divided between her studies and trying to make a better UChicago through UChicago student action.

What are some sources of inspiration for your collection?

In this collection, I wanted to take elements from formal wear and incorporate them with casual, everyday outfits — why can’t extravagance and conveniency coexist? Sheer fabric cutouts with embroidery, extravagant ruffles, and visual illusion are the elements I decided to work with. Some brands I’ve been influenced by are Zuhair Murad, Giambattista Valli, and Iris Van Herpen. I also come from a visual arts background, so I wanted to play with colors and textures instead of having printed patterns. I ended developing monochromatic palettes for each look, which was really fun to work on.

Have you ever done fashion design work before? What are some of the most challenging and rewarding aspects of the process?

To be honest, I’ve never designed any clothes before, and I learned how to work from patterns just this winter break. The most challenging aspect is definitely picking the right fabric for my designs and the actual construction, which is so time-consuming and sometimes frustrating. I was sewing my first pair of pants, and I somehow attached the zipper wrong three times before figuring out the right way! However, all the mistakes make me feel proud about the finished products. The most rewarding aspect is to see ideas becoming reality through my own hands. Another rewarding aspect is fitting my designs on my models and seeing how good they look!

What are you looking forward to most about the show?

I’m looking forward see how my looks come together on the runway. Before even coming up with ideas, I was making a mood board for the makeup looks and hair styles I liked to see on my models. The show is where all the elements come together and the narrative gets presented in its entirely. I have really good relationships with my models, so I’m also excited for them to walk in front of hundreds of people and to feel like the most beautiful, confident versions of themselves.

Who do you have in mind when you’re designing?

I’m thinking about the fashion-forward, risk-loving girls who want to stand out from the crowd but still stay classy. 

If you could give yourself any advice on the design process, what would you say to your younger self?

PUT MORE THOUGHT INTO THE FABRIC! I think the material is just as important as how the garment fits, and I wish I had visited more fabric stores so I had better options. There was this particular shade of mint green I needed for my dress, but I could only find that color in a rather thin and non-stretchy fabric. A few weeks later, I visited another store with more varieties and found the perfect match, but I had already made the dress.

What’s your favorite aspect of the design process?

Going to the fabric store. Looking at all the different colors and textures is super fun, and I sometimes come up with new ideas while shopping for fabric.

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Photos courtesy of Yvonne Yu

The Limited Edition 'Rihannazine'

If there’s any word to embody the inimitable success and character of Rihanna, it’d be this one: trailblazer. The singer, entrepreneur, and beauty & fashion mogul recently released her collaboration with i-D magazine called rihannazine, a collection of visuals and interviews with influencers she believes are changing the game for the better.

RIHANNA via RIHANNAZINE. SUNGLASSES FENTY.

MODEL & DJ YLANG YLANG POON via RIHANNAZINE.

Handpicked by Rihanna and i-D, the collaboration features 43 inspirational icons across all platforms: from art, to beauty, to film, to music, to activism, and more, these people are all using their platforms to progressively re-shape culture in any way they can.

Newer names such as Alexa Demie and Adut Akech—who have recently cemented their place in the film and modeling industry—are included in the zine, along with models Bella and Gigi Hadid, musicians Rico Nasty and Young M.A, Ru Paul’s Drag Race star Vanessa Vanjie Mateo, and choreographer Parris Goebel. Activists such as 11-year-old Yolanda Renee King and Tarana Burke, founder of the #MeToo movement, are also featured in the issue. 

SINGER-SONGWRITER KELELA via RIHANNAZINE.

"It is dedicated to some of the people who are progressively reshaping the communities across fashion, music, art and activism -- creating a more inclusive and diverse future."

Rihanna via i-D

Creator of Fenty Beauty and Savage X Fenty, Rihanna is a visionary all her own. She’s the blueprint for everything it means to be an influencer, a recent social media buzzword that many have unrightfully taken claim over. In her decade-and-a-half career, she’s pushed the boundaries of musicianship while also taking the beauty and fashion world by storm. 

If anyone’s going to be the one to help flaunt the diversity and power the industry has in its fingertips, who better than Rihanna?

RIHANNA via RIHANNAZINE.

The preorder for the limited edition physical copy is sold out, but for those who couldn’t get their hands on it, you can access the digital zine online on the i-D site here.

All images via the digital magazine on i-D.

The Allure of the Topless Tux

I’m a sucker for menswear-inspired outfits, so I’ve been really enjoying the recent wave of high-profile women in suits. One of the most prevalent looks has been the suit-jacket without a shirt underneath. It’s a great blend of the risqué with something that has traditionally been both masculine and formal, and it subverts fashion norms in a really interesting way. In short: I’m a fan.

Yves Saint Laurent was the first designer to make a tuxedo for women: his “Le Smoking” tuxedo jacket debuted in the 1960s and quickly became part of women’s pushback against the societal restrictions. Socialite Nan Kempner, for example, was refused entry to a restaurant because pants were not accepted as appropriate formal wear for women. Instead of taking this lying down, Ms. Kempner simply removed her pants and wore the blazer as a dress! Others were quick to make the look their own, too: in the 1970s, Bianca Jagger got married in a shirtless white tuxedo, as seen in the photo.

Women continue to push social and fashion boundaries with the tuxedo, and many, like Ms. Jagger, do so without shirts on. Here are some of my favorite takes on the look.

Risqué Business

(See what I did there?) Aaaanyway, Kerry Washington’s harness is amazing, and it brought her shirtlessness in this Atuzarra look to a whole new level.

Unexpected Fabric

Cara Delevingne took to the streets of New York City in a blue velvet suit with just a strappy bralette underneath, and I loved it.

Fully Unbuttoned

Slick Woods was beautiful (and very pregnant) in this take on the trend that features a classic black tux with a fully open front.

Structured Tailoring

Gal Gadot’s look showed less skin than many, and her Mugler suit’s structural elements are emphasized by strategically placed seams.

Make It ~Colorful~

Winnie Harlow’s look is a great example of the transforming power of color.

Oversized Elegance

Lady Gaga. A style icon. Wearing a suit that seems much too large, but somehow managing to both pull off the oversized look and add the twist of shirtlessness that makes it even cooler.

Mix and Match

No one ever said a blazer couldn’t have a train, and if they did, Evan Rachel Wood’s Altuzarra look would have something to say about it.

Subtle Shape Shifts

Sandra Oh paired this Armani suit’s non-traditional neckline with a bare chest and it was just s t u n n i n g.

Modern Classic

This white tux is as classic as it gets, but Zendaya’s bare chest made it into a modern look.

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