The Samurai of Brooklyn

The golden age of hip-hop, much to the chagrin of conservative periodicals and leagues of Concerned Moms, had something of a gangster obsession. Mafia movies were quoted and sampled, the lives of gang members were by turns valorized, eulogized and criticized, and street violence was gorily and glorily recounted. Men—boys conscripted into manhood, some of them—made sense of their lives according to these tales, which were realistic in the sense of giving birth to the reality which bears them out. The faces in the films were largely white, yet they held massive appeal to a generation of young black men. Raekwon’s Only Built for Cuban Linx, the Notorious B.I.G., Jay Z on Reasonable Doubt and American Gangster, Straight Outta Compton… 

The appeal of movies which depicted a world of crooked cops, of political (in the realest sense) maneuvering which, if done wrong, could cost your life, of violence, unwanted, but necessitated by the conditions of the world, which depicted the power fantasy of controlling this world, was perhaps obvious. Less obvious was the connection these artists had to another genre, kung-fu movies.

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Imported for cheap from Hong Kong, played on a loop by the struggling theaters around Times Square, and marketed nearly exclusively to minorities, they would soon appear on television as well. Their influence would spread, from Grandmaster Flash to breakdancing moves to, most famously, the Wu-Tang Clan. Kendrick Lamar continues this tradition with his nickname Kung-fu Kenny and in his video for “DNA.” 

At the most basic level, kung-fu movies were used as an analogy for rapping itself. Enter the Wu-Tang (36 Chambers), the Wu-Tang Clan’s first album, is premised on this idea, as are many of their solo albums. In martial arts movies, an apprentice begins by mastering the form, often under the tutelage of an older master. A key element of their training will be sparring with other students and eventually the master (as in GZA’s “Duel of the Iron Mike”). They must create their own unique style in order to become a master (“En garde, I’ll let you try my Wu-Tang style” begins the first track, “Bring Da Ruckus.”) Learning martial arts allows the student to gain control over their situation, to leave behind or ameliorate their troubles. Rapping did the same for the members of Wu-Tang:

Started off on the island, AKA Shaolin /

N***** wildin’, gun shots thrown, the phone dialin’ /

Back in the days, I’m 8 now /

Makin’ a tape now, Rae got a plate now

(“Can It Be All So Simple/Intermission”)

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But this fails to answer the question of why kung-fu movies? It doesn’t explain their appeal in the first place; for that we have to look at the movies themselves. Enter takes its name from a classic of kung-fu cinema, The 36th Chamber of Shaolin, which launched the careers of its director and stars, and secured the place of the Shaw Brothers studio as the leader in Hong Kong imports. The film follows San Te, a young man who becomes involved in a rebellion against the invading Manchus at the behest of his teacher. Upon uncovering the rebellion, the brutal general of the Manchus kills San Te’s family and classmates, leading him to flee the city and seek refuge in a Shaolin temple. There he masters the Shaolin style of martial arts, which, after six years of training to master all 35 “chambers,” he uses to defeat the general and free his hometown. The film ends as he returns to the temple and founds the 36th chamber, which will open the temple to the wider world and teach laymen the art of kung-fu so that they can defend themselves. 

The politics of the film are representative of the genre. The hero of a kung-fu movie is also persecuted and at a disadvantage, often by colonizers, sometimes white ones. The heroes of these films, unlike American action films, are also non-white (Bruce Lee’s Enter the Dragon even features a black star in Jim Kelley, unheard of in mainstream American cinema). Unable to sit down in the face of oppression, our protagonists engage in righteous violence against their persecutors, eventually freeing themselves and their community from the tartar.

The films have a philosophy of violence where it is at once necessary and unwanted. They present a ritualized form of violence—in kung-fu movies there are rules, codes of honor, ceremony in fighting for self-defense—thereby making sense out of what was senseless. The parallel to black liberation for a generation raised in the shadow of the Civil Rights movement hardly needs saying. Like their contemporaries, spaghetti Westerns, kung-fu movies sold the myth of individual liberation through self-cultivation. The messiness of collective action is removed: you can free yourself by training and self-discipline. Mastering yourself amounts to mastery of your situation.

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Perhaps the most successful integration of kung-fu movies is found in GZA’s Liquid Swords, which intermittently samples the 1980 film Shogun Assassin. The film is crucial in creating the world of the album—a world of drug dealers and mules, muggers, shady federal agents and cartoonish violence. GZA is a magnetic presence, bending even the indomitable personalities of his fellow Clan members to his gravitas. His rapping is unrelenting but never rushed, determined and serious, inescapable. Like Rakim, he knows when to effortlessly glide over the beat and when to dig in. He never wrote a simile he didn’t like (on Liquid Swords, “dope sales drop/ like the crash in the Dow Jones stock,” troops are “spread out like crops on a farm,” “cops creep like caterpillars”). The album is nearly perfect in the totality of its mood and GZA’s intransigent flow (excluding Killah Priest’s bonus track “B.I.B.L.E.”, an interesting novelty track which breaks the thematic unity of the album). RZA’s production samples liberally both from Shogun Assassin’s dialogue and futuristic soundtrack to create an exceptionally dark setting, matching GZA’s lyricism.

The film, made from English-dubbed material cut from the first two Lone Wolf and Cub movies, follows father and son Ogami and Daigoro after they are forced to flee their home because Ogami decapitated the Shogun’s son and his wife was murdered by ninja. The Shogun sends various groups to kill the pair, but they are able to rebuff them all. It ends with Ogami killing the Shogun’s brother in the desert.

Shogun Assassin strips the martial arts movie back to its basic components: it is essentially just a series of fight scenes with the minimal plot there to string them along. So much has been cut as to border on incoherence (Why is Ogami’s wife murdered? for instance). Ogami and Daigoro are rarely shown doing anything other than fighting, and when they are resting the respite is brief before agents of the Shogun find them again. There is no safety in their world, no end to the violence; the ending is, likewise, a non-ending which implies that the violence will continue indefinitely. Ogami never kills the Shogun (which would end their persecution), only his brother. The film is pulpy and grotesque – the blood, bright red, erupts from the bodies – and pure camp. The fights, the film knows, are the main attraction. They are poetic and dreamy yet savage and visceral.

Liquid Swords begins and ends with samples from the beginning and end of Shogun Assassin—of Daigoro’s opening monologue and the final words of one of the Masters of Death as his throat is cut, respectively—setting up an analogy between the film and the album. Shogun Assassin sets the tone for GZA’s cold world, of isolation and weariness, where to survive one must become, like Ogami, a demon. The parallels between the songs on Liquid Swords and the samples that frequently begin them is sometimes tenuous, but the effect is quite intentional overall.

Both GZA and Shogun Assassin present hopeless situations; martial arts and rapping don’t help them escape. In this they were outliers. When San Te first confronts the general in The 36th Chamber, his uncle warns him that “One must submit to those who rule.” He asks in response: “Must we and our children yield and conform forever?” Kung-fu movies and the kids who internalized them answered him: “We won’t.”


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The Transformative Potential of Cover Songs

The buzz around Miley Cyrus’s recent performances at the iHeart Radio Festival and on her MTV Unplugged special was largely due to her renditions of other artists’ hits of yesteryear. Cyrus is no stranger to the cover song, often letting her rock chops shine through her unique vocal interpretations.

But what makes a great cover song? Video essay channel Polyphonic tackled the question by taking three tracks—Bob Dylan’s All Along The Watchtower, Trent Reznor’s Hurt, and Otis Redding’s Respect—and looked at how the three artists that covered those songs (Jimmy Hendrix, Johnny Cash, and Aretha Franklin, respectively) produced versions that are nearly universally acknowledged as superior to the originals. It looks at how the sociopolitical context, an artist’s legacy, or particular vocal delivery can change the entire thematic scope of a song given the right emissary.

Cyrus’s cover of Heart of Glass certainly fits the bill, as she takes Debbie Harry’s gossamer vocals and adds a heaping dose of country grit and punk intensity. But it was her rendition of Britney Spears’ Gimme More that blew me away. A club classic, Gimme More carries a quiet undercurrent of despair, as Spears puts on her trademark baby voice affecation to say “they want more / well, I’ll give ‘em more” in reference to the paparazzi’s insatiable addiction to (and relentless critique of) her personal life. Under the brilliance of Gimme More’s pulsing strobe lights there are omnipresent eyes capturing Spears’ every move, demanding her to perform every second of her life for their entertainment. It’s a subtle stab at the public mayhem that consumed her in the mid ‘00s and kept her the center of less-than-friendly attention.

“Cameras are flashing while we’re dirty dancing / they just keep watchin’ / feels like they’re probably saying gimme gimme more.”

Cyrus takes this thread and unravels the glittery facade Gimme More uses to shrug off this dark dimension of fame. Stripped back acoustics and raw, country-inflected vocals highlight the emotional vulnerability implicit in the song. Its all made juicer by the fact that Cyrus herself has had may experiences that mirror Spears’. Both former teen idols, they’ve both faced widespread fascination and condemnation in equal parts for their NSFD (not safe for Disney) antics.

The performances are an interesting inversion of a technique the Princess of Pop herself has previously employed: turning rock songs into pop covers. Spears first forayed into rock with her cover of the Rolling Stones’ (I Can’t Get No) Satisfaction, keeping the song’s spirit of rebellion while re-contextualizing it for her highly critiqued public persona. The lyrics “when I'm watchin' my TV and a man comes on and tells me / how white my shirts can be” become “when I'm watchin' my TV and that girl comes on and tells me / how tight my skirts should be,” turning it into a rage against the media machine’s barrage of slut-shaming.

The next year, Spears cheekily covered Joan Jett’s I Love Rock ‘n’ Roll (which itself is a cover), injecting a campy pop sensibility into the rock classic. The music video is a fun riff on the conventions of a genre that ridicules “pre-fab” pop like hers, full of campy takes on their signature leather, hairography, air guitars, and motorcycles.

A pop classic turned dark ballad that preceded Miley’s Unplugged was Bree Runway’s cover of Lady Gaga’s Paparazzi for 4Music’s Fresh From Home series last month. An up and coming popstar (mark my words!), Runway infuses the song with a certain mystique via an excellent melodic interpretation, a satin-draped background, and a performance you can feel as she deepens the already reflective lyrics.

It’s a very deliberate choice, as Runway has spent her career fighting the restriction of being confined solely to historically Black musical classifications like rap and R&B. Her cover of Paparazzi showcases her range, as her voice practically floats above the chords with a melancholy yet bright sound, à la ABBA’s The Winner Takes It All. The performance exhibits a gentleness and delicacy of emotions that dark-skinned Black women in the music industry are often barred from expressing.

The history of American music is littered with cover songs, from jazz standards and the Great American Songbook to the proliferation of “super producers” like Max Martin who do everything but sing on the tracks. To truly grasp and emulate the spirit of someone else’s song is certainly not easy, but covers that strike me as innovative do not simply re-record the original song, they remake it. Transcendent covers honor the original while infusing the artists’ own lived experience into the music to tell a story of their own.

Another example of a cover slyly flipping a song on its head is Carlos Santana, India Arie, and Yo-Yo Ma’s interpretation of the Beatles’ While My Guitar Gently Weeps. Like Runway’s Paparazzi, it deepens the lyrical quality of the original song by slamming the gas on the emotional quality. The original song is light and dreamy with a bombastic ending, but Santana et. al turn it into a sensual epic. Where the Beatles’ song was gentle, Santana’s was nothing short of alluring. More romantic drama, less emo reflection. An incredibly luxe soundscape, aided by Yo-Yo Ma’s sweeping cello, cushions India Arie’s R&B vocals and Santana’s elite Spanish guitar. 

A prototype of this phenomenon can be found in Ike and Tina Turner’s cover of Creedence Clearwater Revival’s Proud Mary. Creedence’s version is a guitar-centric, bluesy rock song you vibe to while rolling down the highway on a summer day; The Turners transformed it into a funk opera. It starts achingly slow, with Tina promising that “we’re gonna take the beginning of this song and do it… easy / but then we’re gonna do the finish…rough.” The midsection kicks it into high gear, with blaring horns and a relentless drum beat kicking off Tina’s iconic vocal trills. This dynamic interpretation breathes life into the narrative of the lyrics, as the narrator recounts leaving their confining, monotonous life for a life of freedom and travel upon the Proud Mary riverboat. The structure of the song itself replicates the narrator’s emancipation, becoming unabashedly joyous once free of its languid opening tempo.

Fact: the majority of popular mainstream musicians do not write their own songs. Music doesn’t always have to have come out of your brain in order to mine something from your heart. A transformative cover song demonstrates this principle tenfold, as it takes a song with a pre-established place in the world and imbues it with new meaning. It takes but one thread from the original and weaves it into an entirely new tapestry. There’s something so personal and touching about a drastically different cover—it’s charged with letting us in to the coverer’s own relationship to art as they share their unique synthesis of the world.

Bonus track: this little boy’s cover of Anita Baker’s Sweet Love—objectively the best cover to ever exist.


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MODA Blog Favorites: October 2020

 

Welcome to MODA Blog Favorites! This is our monthly series where MODA Bloggers, photographers and editors let you know what we’re loving this month! From binge-worthy series, to our favorite books to some Holy Grail skincare products, the team wishes you all a safe, and healthy fall quarter. Here’s what the team is loving, hopefully bringing you a monthly dosage of inspiration!


Andrew

Boomerang Fu

I think quarantine has forced me to find ways to make the best use of my now reduced immediate circle of friends. Cue the introduction to the most adorable family game of the season. My roommates and I were introduced to this adorable dodgeball-esque game by a mutual friend and it’s recently become my biggest obsession. From accessible game mechanics to ADORABLE graphics, Boomerang Fu is a game that amateurs or seasoned gamers will all love, and it’s the perfect antidote to those dreary days indoors. Highly recommend.

Pyer Moss x Reebok

Earlier this year, I managed to snag a highly coveted fave item in this season’s wardrobe: a twelve-foot-long Pyer Moss x Reebok Scarf. For anyone who isn’t familiar with the brand, Pyer Moss is an amazing Black owned brand run by designer-activist Kerby Jean-Raymond. Mixing in streetwear and tailoring elements with the overall intention of creating dialogue about Black narratives, Pyer Moss merges fashion with activism, storytelling and theatre in such an incredibly modern way. I absolutely recommend making the effort to invest in such a powerful family, and now that Jean-Raymond has ascended to a creative director role within Reebok, you can risk splurging without hurting your wallet too much. I absolutely can’t wait to see what Pyer Moss comes up with for future collections and I absolutely urge you all to pick up some pieces if you’re interested in sportswear.

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Converse Run Star Hike

In my first year at college, I set the arbitrary and slightly unreasonable goal of reaching 5”10’ by the time I turned 21. And now that I’ve reached my adulthood, I’m saddened at my humble 5”9.5’…Thankfully, I managed to get a hold of Converse’s most recent Run Star Hike drop and can safely reach my dream height at the drop of a shoe (literally). Originally a collab with English designer J.W. Anderson, the Run Star Hike merges a Classic Chuck Taylor with the sole of a hiking boot. The platform converse are both cool and classic AND comfortable, though I’ll admit, they scraped my ankles up at the start. For anyone looking to buy a staple sneaker with a little bit of an edge, I absolutely recommend a pair of RSH’s, especially if you’re also looking for a little bit of extra height to reach those unattainable cups in the top shelf!

Images via here, here and here.

Eleni

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Trader Joe’s Maple Leaf Cookies

Cookie sandwich but ~make it fall~. I eat these pretty much everyday. They’re like vitamins to me now. I also recently discovered you can buy them on Amazon and avoid the line outside of Trader Joe’s so…

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Hot Tools Dryer Volumizer

A hairdryer, brush, & straightener in one. I normally just sleep with wet hair and it’s fine when I wake up, but if I let it air-dry during the day when people might actually see me, for some reason it dries extremely frizzy. So this is what I use for those days. A+

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Weekly Planner

Very, very necessary. I mean, I probably spend more time scheduling things on this than actually doing them, so in that sense maybe it doesn’t add too much to my productivity. But at least it keeps me aware of what I should be doing.

 
 

Images via here, here and here.

Felix

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Autumn Decor

I took a trip to the Dollar Tree and made my room look like a autumn mood-board

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Sufjan Stevens

A new Sufjan album to make me feel everything all at once

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todoist

I’m always swtiching productivity apps, and todoist is my latest attemp to stay on top of everything.

Images via here, here, and here

Carla

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Fleece-lined joggers

It’s cold and heating is expensive. Also, I didn’t buy my first pair of sweatpants (they always seem to pop up as hand-me-downs or random sports memorabilia) until the day before lockdown in France. With the way things are going, I figured I’d add another pair to my collection.

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Retinol

I’ve had the same wrinkle on my forehead since I was 13 years old and the magic of retinol for all skin ailments kept popping up on my feeds. Wrinkle’s still there, but I have managed to get rid of sunspots and am generally glowing—as they say.

Boujee bougie!

I’ve always wanted to treat myself to an expensive candle, and have taken COVID restrictions as the perfect excuse to do so. I chose one that’s locally-crafted, vegan, and oddly reminiscent of that one week where we all decided we love folklore.

Images via here, here, and here

Laura

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LED Orbs

I’ve been obsessed with these light up orbs for a while and recently bought a few from Loftek to decorate my apartment with! They are amazing and hypnotic I heavily recommend these to light up your apartment / dorm with!

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Granny Square Crochet Hats

My crochet obsession has been recently centered on making granny square hats. I accept commissions :)

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Long-sleeve Fingerless Gloves

Here is a picture of me crocheting with my favorite fingerless sleeve gloves.

Images are blogger’s own


Ashley

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Tote Bags

Since coming back to Chicago and living off campus for the first time, I’ve developed a deep love for tote bags. My go-to has been my Outdoor Voices tote (free with every in-store purchase), but I have my credit card ready for when a certain cow patterned canvas duck bag comes back in stock. It’s one of those accessories that can be both casual and convenient. You’ll never run out of room and they’re almost always affordable, if not free! Whether you are lounging, apple picking, or grocery shopping, a tote bag is your new best friend.

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Byredo Rinse-Free Hand Wash

I think we can all agree that washing your hands right now, and really always, is a must! So, if you’re willing to splurge a little (actually a lot) on a nice smelling hand sanitizer I cannot recommend Byredo enough. Once you find your scent you won’t go back.

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Gilmore Girls

What better way to welcome fall than to watch Lorelai and Lorelai, excuse me *Rory, take on Stars Hollow. It’s kind of embarrassing that this is my first time watching the notorious 7 season TV show that claimed the 2000’s, but better late than never right?! All I can say is if you’re looking for a mid-week pick-me-up Gilmore Girls will never fail.

image via here, here and here


Nadaya

Sputnik Coffee

I recently acquired a new coffee machine and a grinder to grind my owns beans. Exciting! It’s been so fun having a little calming process to do in the morning before Zoom class. I found a bag of Sputnik coffee at Hyde Park Produce, and it’s both cheap and tasty.

Slasher Films

My favorite subgenre of horror, personally. A go-to October favorite for me. Time to binge all the Scream movies (even the bad ones) as Halloween approaches!

Vagabond Loafers

The Kenova’s, specifically. They’re so, so good.

Images linked via clickthrough


Matthew

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Miyoko’s Organic Vegan Mozzarella

Honestly, I can’t get enough. It is great option if you’re looking to cut back on your dairy consumption. Miyoko’s, in general, is one of the best cheese replacements, that’s readily available, on the market right now.

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Open Produce

Stumbled upon while drunk searching for snack; returned sober. This place has the best stuff: vegan cheese, passion fruit juice, and FREE bread (occasionally).

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Neon Nail Polish

I have been slightly unhinged lately; the color has just been very suiting to my attitude.

Images via here and here


Alessandra

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Trader Joe’s Chicken Gyoza

Learned about these bad boys from my roommate, and thus my obsession began. For the past few days, I have eaten these for lunch or dinner (sometimes both) and I am officially obsessed with them. These have brought me so much joy and have saved me from having to do more than one dish that would come from cooking something like mac and cheese.

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Black Nail Polish

Since it’s officially spooky season, I’ve been wearing more black (sometimes gray) nail polish, taking me back to my freshman year of high school. I personally love Essie’s Licorice, since I tend to favor Essie nail polish, but OPI and Sally Hansen also have some nice black nail polish.

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Sex and the City

After having it recommended to me by everyone and their mother, I finally started watching it. I’m only a few episodes in, but I’ve really enjoyed the show, both for the fashion and for the progressive approach to women freely expressing their sexuality and having their own careers, which I think is great since a lot of times I feel like there’s an either/or rather than a both/and approach in certain media (or maybe that’s just what I’ve been watching).

Images via here, here, and here

 

MODA Lookbook Episode 9: Scream Queens

Welcome to Episode 9 of MODA Blog’s Lookbook series! We wanted to offer our wonderful team the opportunity to create and direct more editorial content for your viewing pleasure. Completely student styled, modelled and produced, the MODA Lookbook hopes to inspire, empower and challenge the talent of our community.

TW: (Fake) blood, sharp objects


What’s your favorite scary movie?

The trope of the scream queen is a tale old as time, one we’ve all seen before during our horror movie binges. Bowl of popcorn clutched in hand, blankets draped over our bodies, we watch in spectral darkness as the female heroine lets out an ear-piercing scream. She runs to two places—outside, flailing her arms hoping that 

Somebody! Anybody!

Can hear her.

Or, she makes a mad dash to the bathroom-bedroom-attic-basement, locks herself inside, and hides. Maybe, in an act of quick thinking, she finds a weapon—she slices her finger on a razor-needle-scrapglass, she clutches a knife in her grip. 

Thump, thump, thump

Go the steps of the killer.

Though she might seem like a damsel in distress, most of the time she comes out on top by hitting her assailant right where it hurts, just enough to be able to drop her weapon and fall to the ground in exhaustion. Sometimes, she doesn’t. 

There’s something strange about her, though, that sets her apart from her peers. She’s just “pretty enough” to adhere to the so-called standards of beauty. Maybe she’s a little boring (at first) in comparison to her friends, timid and modest to their rowdy and  sexually liberated. Although directors in the likes of Wes Craven and John Carpenter broke through those stereotypes just a bit in their respective films, they still missed the mark in so many ways. Sure, these girls fight back. They’re badasses. Usually. But… 

Oh, did I mention she’s white? Straight? Cis?

How many slasher films can you think of starring people of color—BIPOC, at that—pre-21st century, and even now? What about the directors? What about without that sense of tokenism, without those tiresome and maddening tropes? First to die. Mythical. The best friend. The villain. The supporting character. What about queer people of color? 

In what regard are these scream queens memorable, aside from the occasional pop culture reference? 

And so, I challenged three models to take the tropes of the scream queen and not only subvert them, but make them unforgettable. Stylish. Modern. Better.

This shoot was completely self-styled by models Miles Franklin, Anna Kinlock, and Jo Blankson, from clothes, to hair, to makeup. It was captured and edited by my wonderful photographer,  co-director, and roommate Alex Jovel, a 3rd year FLI student from Alabama.

We hope you enjoy MODA Lookbook Episode 9: Scream Queens!

Click photos to enlarge

For mobile, turn your phone to the side


Miles Franklin is a third year English major at the College, as well as an arts & culture writer and fashion collector. Here, they pay homage to Drew Barrymore’s character in the first Scream (1996) movie, Casey Becker.

White dress: Zara

Just Like The Movies: Miles pays homage to Drew Barrymore’s character in the first Scream movie, Casey Becker

Pink sweater: Vintage / Jeans: Levi

Hello? Who’s There?

Time to make an escape. Where’s Ghostface?

Nowhere to Run: Top & skirt from Pilsen Vintage


Anna Kinlock is a second year CRES and English major with a concentration in Germanic languages. In their free time they’re a board representative for ACSA, organizes with UCU, and can be found working as a wench in the stacks of the Reg. Here, you can find them fading in and out of dreams in the likes of Nancy Thompson from A Nightmare on Elm Street (1984).

Drag Me Under: Anna’s look is a nod to the infamous bath tub scene in the slasher by Wes Craven

Slip: Vintage Victoria’s Secret / Robe: Thrifted / Tights: Beauty Supply / Jewelry: Oil diffuser necklace from Etsy

Razor Hands

Childhood Clutch: Earrings from Beauty Supply / Headband from @shimmeryds, a black-owned business in Hyde Park

Fighting Back: Rings thrifted


Jo Blanskon is a 3rd year Fundamentals major in the college with the question, “What is sexy?” Her dream job pre-COVID was to be a Harper barista; even then, she does improv with Off-Off Campus and stand up, along with NSP and her job as a research assistant. Here, she channels and subverts the innocent and studious Laurie Strode of Halloween (1978).

Jo honors the late 70’s girl next door Laurie Strode in a thrifted blue button down and Levi 501’s

Study Date For One, Or Two?

You Are Not Alone

Found Footage


It’s all in the details.

Okay, but seriously. What’s your favorite scary movie?

Miles: A Nightmare on Elm Street.

Anna: Jennifer’s Body.

Jo: Halloweentown & Ex Machina.

Alex: The Saw Franchise.

Nadaya: Scream. The first one, specifically.


Cast and Crew

Co-directors: Alex Jovel, Nadaya Davis

Models: Miles Franklin, Anna Kinlock, Jo Blankson

Makeup, Hair, & Styling: Miles Franklin, Anna Kinlock, Jo Blankson

Photography & Editing: Alex Jovel

A special thank you to Alex Jovel, my fellow co-director! Get to know Alex and check out his portfolio here

Note: This shoot was constructed carefully and thoughtfully, as it is partially indoors. Directors kept masks on at all times, and models when necessary, along with adhering to distance as much as possible. Participants are signed up for weekly COVID testing at the University.

Superstar Rina Sawayama’s Stunning Debut Album

No one is better at making songs you want than Rina Sawayama. A razor-sharp mastermind, Rina Sawayama is an explosive vision, a phoenix to behold. To say her work is meaningful is not enough; she cuts deeper and closer to the soul than any modern musical artist. She exposes the core of her Asian immigrant experience in the Western world, fixating unrelentingly on the psychological impacts of her identity and her unstoppable, authentic personality. 

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Image via

Rina Sawayama’s much-anticipated debut album SAWAYAMA blazed into existence on April 17 against a milieu of political clashes, the COVID-19 pandemic, and society’s rush to salvage 2020. For a precipitous age, SAWAYAMA is an iconic staple of pop music. Emanating from every corner are underlying tones of familial pain, struggle, and finding herself—from the self that studied at a historic, privileged institution like Cambridge to the musical, exploratory, creative, and rebellious self. The Japanese-born British artist’s incredible talent has grown since she began taking over the global music scene with her critically-lauded Rina (2017), one of the best debuts in recent pop history and the highest reviewed album of the year. On October 27, Rina Sawayama made her U.S. television debut with a performance of the smash single “XS” on the Tonight Show with Jimmy Fallon:

SAWAYAMA consists of 13 tracks full of her criminally deep and soulful voice and standout lyrics that take advantage of a bold rock-pop sound, with highlights like “Dynasty,” “Comme des Garçons (Like the Boys),” “Snakeskin,” “XS,” “Bad Friend,” and “Chosen Family.”

The emotional core in her lyrics makes her art different and more meaningfully complex than just pleasing hooks: “Dynasty,” “Bad Friend,” “Commes des Garçons,” “Chosen Family,” and “Fuck This World” all tell stories about her intergenerational trauma, a painful friend breakup she initiated, the double standards of female confidence, the joys of finding an LGBTQ+ family outside of her blood family, and the complications of the improvable but disappointing state of our world.

“Snakeskin” sounds like Rina is her own pop group, full of confidence, edge, and addicting beats—the composition sounds a lot like Blackpink’s, for example—and features her mother speaking in Japanese. Pixels, as Sawayama’s fans are known, embrace Sawayama’s tendency to “make decidedly uncool things cool,” including her visuals.

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“When I was starting out, I remember looking around being like ‘There's not a single Asian pop artist that I can name.’ Hayley Kiyoko was sort of coming in a bit, but I was like "I can't name people who have pushed their Asian-ness to the fore and made art out of it." There's so many artists now. The first step was me talking about the fact that there's no representation, and then the second step was just being as successful as possible doing something that I would be proud of.” Quote via

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Brighton concert via

Brighton concert via

Among many highly talented, driven Asian artists who are looking to impose their creativity upon the world and spread representation and their art, Rina Sawayama obviously feels pressure, but her results despite fear and anxiety are a testament to her distinct talent and passion. “Being east Asian and trying to be a pop singer in the UK where there is no precedent has sometimes been quite hard,” said the South London-based Niigata-born musician and model. “There aren’t many east Asian singers in the western pop world.” She emerges bruised but triumphant like a phoenix amidst a new generational set of difficulties that comes from one narrative of birth and origin in the East and growing up most of her life in the West. 

You need to listen to the shiny joy that is SAWAYAMA. From personal experience, discovering her album six months after its release after waiting and many singles, listening will bless your Zoom fatigue away like it did mine. I love the pop rock ballads the most for their thoughtfulness, soothing sound, and the feeling that she is letting us into her consciousness, but there’s truly something in it for everyone.

Her work is so personal that it’s emblematic of a bright future where we can all be ourselves: not necessarily a standard canon of the Asian experience but simply art that is sourced from her, a Japanese-British woman. It conveys essential helpful truths lacking in global musical discourse, like her experience of her native Japanese culture with a Westernized gaze and her critique of the latter, how her confidence as a female is held to a double standard in my favorite track “Commes des Garçons,” as well as her fights with her mother. Sawayama’s greatest asset is that she is unafraid to be honest and faithful to herself; she lyrically, sonically, and visually embodies a necessary disregard for fear and irrelevant judgment, like in her luminous “Bad Friend.”

“[My music] is so fueled by thinking about what I and my mom would be proud of me doing because it was such a big risk to be a musician that I didn't want to sit around and do fluffy pop songs and hope it cut through. I knew that it took something like this to cut through, because there's just so much music out there now. Like so many things in life, it's driven by parental approval; so annoying.” Quote via

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“STFU!” addresses Sawayama’s annoyance with microaggressions towards Asian women, yelling out her pain with grating nu-metal aggression. Her experience in the UK, which doesn’t have the American—albeit complex and confusing, à la model minority myth—narrative of the power of immigrants or as active of a national discussion around issues like racism, has helped her achieve new levels of race-related realizations that are groundbreaking. Sawayama studied psychology, sociology, and politics as a Philosophy, Politics, and Economics undergraduate and had to rationalize parts of her experience being othered by the Cambridge community despite living in the UK for 25 years. More recently, she’s challenged her citizenship-based disqualification from the BRITs and Mercury Music Awards, as she is British and has experienced most of her life in England though she has retained sole citizenship in Japan.

Such active xenophobia, stereotyping, and blatant racism prevalent in the music and fashion industry—plus the structurally ingrained sexism inflicted on young female artists—are challenging and inevitable but nevertheless could not stop Sawayama’s drive. Her music truly stands on its own as hyper-creative, visionary, and genuine in a way that speaks to the soul. Her endless chain of accomplishments like invitations to madebygoogle and Wimbledon, and her army of celebrity fans like RM, Jorja Smith and Charli XCX are mere testaments to her effort, skill, and success in achieving her goals.

“Ultimately, I want a young ‘me’ to be able to feel like they can be the next east Asian model and singer with red hair and tattoos,” she said in an interview with Dazed.

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Sawayama was born in 1990 and started dropping music in 2013 at exactly the same time as many third-generation Asian artists like international sensation BTS. She shares a similar drive and unrelenting strength in the face of countless obstacles, and even wrote a currently unreleased song virtually with BTS leader RM, who is a professed fan of Sawayama.

These comparisons between Asian diaspora artists and artists in Asia are to disprove the childish illusion that artists of Asian descent are in any way the same. BTS, with its utter global dominance despite tremendous financial obstacles and universal industry doubts, in fact stands as a good contrast for the differences in being an Asian immigrant as opposed to living in Asia. Sawayama had to create a songwriting and fashion career against a completely different set of challenges than BTS because of her unique context, such as racist producers who stereotyped her work as an expression of just “a general Asian story,” as well as rampant sexism since the earliest days of her songwriting career.

Rina Sawayama and collaborator RM of BTS via

Rina Sawayama and collaborator RM of BTS via

However, some commonalities BTS and Sawayama share despite much difference is a habit of firmly denouncing any prejudice in their professional lives and striving towards Grammy nominations. 

Sawayama doesn’t just want to make people dance, and cannot simply produce pop that is inauthentic to her because of her personal stakes and standards. Her music grips you with its energetic sound to make you listen to a compelling and stunning narrative, teaching you about what it means to find your own on your own. Anyone is welcome, she sings in “Chosen Family.” It’s your duty to hear from such a legendary teacher. She has unique values, strong personal emotions, and a nostalgic yet cutting edge pop sound. She is Rina Sawayama, and she can’t stop blazing blindingly bright.

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Learning to Listen to Ambient Music

Brian Eno’s famous dictum that ambient music should “accommodate many levels of listening attention without forcing one in particular; it must be ignorable as it is interesting” leaves the music with a tightrope to walk: it must be interesting enough to sustain an attentive listener, but ignorable enough to serve as background noise. It also leaves a unique challenge to the listener, as the ambiguity inherent in the mission of Eno’s ambient leaves them to decide: how best to listen to the music? 

While Eno’s formative experience with ambient – a friend left music too low to be fully heard while he was hospitalized after a car accident – wouldn’t come until later that year, and he wouldn’t consciously pursue something he called “ambient” until three years later, the beginning traces of his ambient work can be found in the 1975 album Another Green World. Typically lumped in with his early “vocal” albums, only 5 of the 14 tracks feature vocals; they are scattered throughout the album (unlike the Eno-assisted Low), as if to re-center the listening experience on something recognizably human in an otherwise alien landscape. A fixation with the inhuman would come to haunt Eno’s ambient works, but here his voice is there to ground us, and the album cover features humanoid figures, which, starting with Discreet Music, none of his ambient albums would. The vocal tracks are good as far as they go, if they sometimes seem a little de rigueur for Eno.

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The instrumental tracks on Another, on the other hand, are as interesting as they are impossible to ignore. A melancholic synth fades in and out, backed by a hypnotic drum beat, as the music swells on “The Big Ship,” a track which seems to me an ode to the march of progress. It is one of the few hopeful instrumental songs on the album. “In Dark Trees” disturbs with its central riff, repeating, echoing xylophone and dark synth undercurrents, which defy the naturalness suggested in the title. “Sombre Reptiles” is similarly melancholic. But as the album progresses the songs lose their emotional clarity, prefiguring Eno’s later ambient works. “Little Fishes” is playful and small, a musical equivalent of a nursery rhyme. “Becalmed” and “Zawinul/Lava” build themselves up to no avail, ending as mysteriously as when they began. 

Nonetheless Another Green World does seem to suggest a certain style of listening on the continuum of background noise and full attentiveness. The songs share a hypnotic repetition – reminiscent of the “Oblique Strategies” card (which Eno would develop with Peter Schmidt later that year) that reminds us that “repetition is a form of change” – that encourages a peculiar form of engagement. Especially in the first half of the album, where the tracks have a clear emotional tenor, the songs allow one to get lost in oneself, in one’s thoughts and dreams, while being unobtrusively guided by the music. The songs shape the experience without overpowering it, suggesting certain reactions without forcing them.

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Discreet Music is where the vision of ambient first coalesced (though it still didn’t go by the name). The 32-minute title track is made up of a few synth notes gently floating in and out of consciousness, with minor variations throughout. The song seems to cyclically expand and contract, benignly peaceful – the experience can be transcendent. This would turn out to be at odds with the project of Ambient 1/ Music for Airports, whose liner notes are the source of the “ignorable as it is interesting” moniker. Where Ambient 1 defies the expectation that art be a self-contained entity, metaphysically higher than ordinary experience and utilitarian objects, Discreet Music exemplifies it. Ambient 1 becomes part of its environment, its sound mixing with it in ways Eno cannot control; Discreet Music is an all-encompassing aesthetic experience, despite its ignorability. Their disunity hints at the fundamental ambiguity in the promise of ambient, the alternative directions it can take; both live up to Eno’s phrase, but entirely differently. They demand to be listened to differently. 

Ambient 1 shares a guiding premise with John Cage’s 4’33” (1952): to highlight the incidental sounds of the listening space – in Cage’s case, the conversation of those in the concert hall, seats shifting, coughs, staff moving in and out – thereby revealing the social construction of the concept of music. The idea that Cage’s piece is about silence seems to me a misinterpretation. The silence of the composer only serves to display the sounds of the audience, the ambient noise generated in the space. Once the composer has shifted one’s attention to it, the “non-musical” (i.e., ignorable) sounds of the audience can be heard for the first time, not as a distraction from the music but as constituting it. Like 4’33”, Ambient 1 gives its audience very little; even the titles have lost their descriptiveness (compare “1/1” and “2/1” to “The Big Ship” or “Unfamiliar Wind”). The sound, like that of 4’33”, is meant to be uncontrolled to some extent. Both thus share a central thought with the “Oblique Strategies” deck – to welcome randomness into not only the production but the product itself. Chance is not incidental but crucial to the art itself. But Eno’s ambient music after Music for Airports would lose this shared purpose with 4’33” as he pursued more of the aesthetic wholeness of Discreet Music

These elements of ambient – and minimalist music generally – were roundly criticized by the music press of the time. It was uninteresting, unoriginal (mirroring the classic dig at modern art of “even I could do that”), in a sense hardly even music. Rolling Stone found Music for Airports boring, and a failure by its own terms. One critic compared a minimalist composer’s music to waves rolling on a shore: pretty, but meaningless. Meaninglessness was a common theme of the criticism, as ambient and minimalism lacked melody and progression, elements typically thought to impart meaning on a song. But these critics were listening for the wrong things; they hadn’t yet learned how to listen to ambient. 

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After his collaborations with Harold Budd and Laraaji on Ambient 2 and 3 (on the latter of which he is credited only as a producer), Eno produced his most haunting album of the ambient series in Ambient 4. Listening to On Land gives a disquieting sense of dislocation in time, a past sense of a future never come. It is the specter of the futures foretold in Blade Runner, Dune and Solaris, with their attendant mixture of futurism and dystopia, and confusion of the human and inhuman. What haunts us is a melancholy imposed retrospectively by an audience who knows that that future hasn’t come, that it won’t come. The music constantly shuttles us between this lost sense of the future and the past, the past of human vulnerability to the environment. The sounds of nature oppress on this album in a way nature rarely dominates us anymore. 

The song titles typically suggest something natural, as though ambient here seems to mean simply capturing, rather than creating a soundscape. All human elements have been abstracted away, leaving only an eerie sense of the nature indicated in the titles. It’s as if Eno recorded a Jurassic swamp transplanted into the 70’s and early 80’s idea of the future, with its juxtaposition of the sounds of frogs and crickets (and are those monkeys on “A Clearing”?) and synths. On “Tal Coat,” for example, synths bubble up, as if from a swamp, in an odd mix of the protean and futuristic. “Lizard Point” and “Lantern Marsh” are oppressive and minimal, reminiscent of Burial. The sound opens up slightly on, fittingly, “A Clearing,” before the sun rises on “Dunwich Beach.”

I find Ambient 4 to be the best of Eno’s ambient series, but with it the fibers connecting the four albums of the series are definitively cut. No longer is the music ignorable. But if on 4 it becomes clear that Eno has moved beyond “ignorable as it is interesting” as a guide for the project, it still fulfills the promise of ambient in its own way. It shares Discreet Music’s desire to create a total musical experience, but lacks its trance-like function. Rather, ambient in On Land is, as noted above, about creating the illusion of having captured sound rather than having created it. One has a sense of having stumbled on a pre-existing environment. On Land, therefore, suggests its own pattern of activity and passivity, attention and distraction for listening, quite different from any of the other ambient works. 

Despite the disunity of his projects, Eno’s ambient work instigated (and catalogued) a revolution in the uses of sound. He eroded how we thought to listen, like waves lapping on a shore.


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Spotlight Time Deserves Your Follow

I don’t know about you, but I love discovering a good fashion Instagram. This summer, I stumbled across Spotlight Time while writing for a small fashion and lifestyle publication, and I’ve been in love ever since.

Ofri Cohen, a 30-year-old midwife-in-training from northern Israel, started the account in 2014 as a platform to showcase the work of as-yet-unknown designers and creatives. Cohen grew up on a kibbutz, and magazines were the only access she had to the fashion world. Even without exposure to the physical inspiration of fashion capitals like New York, Paris, and Milan, Cohen fell in love with global style, and that love eventually translated into Spotlight Time. The account now has almost 230,000 followers.

One of Cohen’s biggest success stories happened a few years ago when she began posting images of Shahar Avnet‘s designs. The Israeli designer’s pieces caught the eye of Beyoncé’s stylist, Zerina Akers, and her assistant DMed Cohen to ask for Avnet’s contact information. It was really the only thing Akers could do. I mean, just look at these freaking c o l o r s! the tulle! the embroidery! I swoon.

Since then Beyoncé has worn Avnet’s designs more than once, and many other creatives, including Zendaya and Elizabeth Moss, have discovered her as well.

In case you needed more convincing that Cohen is someone you should support, let me give you some more background. She’s been running her account, consulting for Italian Vogue (connecting up-and-coming creatives with the magazine and writing profiles of artists she’s discovered), and simultaneously working towards a degree in nursing. She hopes to be a midwife, and sees similarities between that role and the role she’s created for herself with Spotlight Time. Her hope, in both pursuits, is to make a positive difference in people’s lives.

I am always surprised by the content she features, my horizons continually expanded, and it gives me hope for a fashion future that is innovative in ways I cannot even imagine. Let Cohen improve your life. Go give Spotlight Time your follow. You won’t regret it.


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Source: https://www.instagram.com/p/CD3JwtQpPCg/

I Want a Smarter Emily in Paris

By now, we’ve all been bombarded with ads for Netflix’s newest, indulgent, rom-com-esque series: Emily in Paris. The clichéd content, and many posts like it, are sent my way by any friend who’s had to save 4 different versions of my phone number in their contacts.

And I don’t blame them; it has all the makings to poke fun at your local Chicago-based French major who has seemingly been studying abroad for forever. The series has Darren Star behind it, famed creator of Sex and the City—and it shows. Emily in Paris is decidedly less risqué, but has the same level of maddeningly unrealistic cringe that young audiences no longer find tolerable.

I might be a bit envious of the ease with which Emily takes on Paris, but I think the time for a Darren Star-style show to hit the mainstream has passed. Sex and the City was a cultural phenomenon thanks to its sexually-liberated Samantha, its judgmental Charlotte, and the unapologetic Carrie and Miranda. The women of the show were flawed and while their lives in New York catered to a (very white) fantasy, the issues they dealt with still pushed the envelope for mainstream media at the time. Emily in Paris cannot say the same.

Emily beaming after telling the French they should really stop smoking. Image via.

Emily beaming after telling the French they should really stop smoking. Image via.

The show is cute, and I don’t hate it for being just that. Star’s intention behind it seems to be escapism, and many fans have defended its right to be as cheesy and dreamy as it wants to be. In a sense, it would be unreasonable to expect a cutesy plot about a 20-something marketing exec to give us a documentary-like image of Paris. But the problem with the series isn’t just its departure from reality. It’s just that this imaginary Paris is — quite simply — really freaking boring.

You don’t have to know the City of Lights to yawn at the prospect of an American girl prancing around a European city, bound to fall in love with a charming man whose language she’ll never learn. The American transplants I’ve met overseas, far from home and fiercely independent, have (usually) been so much more than that. What could Emily in Paris have been if we got a glimpse of real expat-struggles beyond the snooty French colleague?

What if Emily was constantly sweating on the metro, having to get a bank account before getting an apartment but needing an apartment before opening a bank account, or even left surviving on a bag of chips because she slept in past Sunday grocery closures? And what if she interacted with more than one black person? What if the clear lack of diversity in her office was addressed, or at the very least poked fun at? Paris is indeed one of the most diverse cities in Europe.

And what if Emily was, you know, not a wealthy white woman with a golden path to Paris laid out for her? The most interesting expats I’ve met are those who’ve moved abroad on their own accord. They’ve dealt firsthand with the discrimination and exclusivity that’s all too common in Parisian culture and still made strong communities for themselves in the city.

Judging you, Em. Image via.

Judging you, Em. Image via.

In a way, the casting of Lily Collins as Emily Cooper was perfect. Collins has long been compared to Audrey Hepburn, whose big brown eyes and delicate features made her the lead of Funny Face. Hepburn played that “all-American girl,” impishly working in a bookstore before being jetted off to Paris to live a life of luxury. Collins’s character represents much of the same as the 1950s (!) relic, which is exactly why it’s so underwhelming.

Sure, the series is a means for escape, conveniently unengaging for these times of high stress. But in a moment where many parts of our society are at a threshold, Emily in Paris could’ve taken steps to be as relevant, thought-provoking, and somehow-still-funny as shows like Insecure or I May Destroy You. Star had the chance to create, at the very least, a fresh version of the American in Paris storyline we know all too well. Regardless, the series is likely to be renewed by Netflix. Expats and dreamers alike can only hope that Darren Star will be bolder than ever in his second season, giving us the accessible Madame Cooper we truly need.

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The Art of Voting Posts

During what may be one of the most decisive and logistically-confusing elections in the history of the United States, an increasing number of celebrities have spoken up on politics, either for the first time or far more urgently than in previous years.

Now that early voting is underway in most states, it is a good time to reflect on the efforts put on by celebrities to get people to the polls, and as we’ve come to find out, their social media posts are often an extension of their celebrity personas.

First on the list is Taylor Swift, who for a long time stayed silent on political matters. While she posted a photo heading to the polls in 2016, she stayed quiet on what candidate was getting her vote. This led to far-right groups taking her silence as support, and fans were dismayed at her lack of transparency. In recent years, however, she has become increasingly vocal about her support for the Democratic Party (particularly in her voting state of Tennessee). Her voting-themed-baking has helped her young fans become more politically active but also making sure her Republican fanbase rethink supporting her.

Another high-profile celebrity to break their silence this year was Dwayne “the Rock” Johnson. Like Taylor Swift, his endorsement of Joe Biden caused quite the stir within his fanbase, but according to his most recent Instagram post, the loss of some fans has not made much of a dent. It should be noted that his choice of a very, very tight shirt helped fuel internet chatter that was just as loud as anything political.

While the Rock’s tight shirt was accidentally a topic of conversation, some other celebrities have taken a more direct route to get people’s attention.

Kylie Jenner posed in a floral bikini to ask her followers if they are registered to vote. While some saw this as a classic a Jenner/Kardashian move, this is not really that different from other posts from above—and she has a vote.org link in her bio. What else could we ask for?

Other celebrities’ attempts to strip down have not gone down as smoothly, though. Sarah Silverman, Tiffany Haddish, Chris Rock, and other celebs tried to shine a light on Pennsylvania’s “naked ballot” guidelines. They certainly brought attention to the issue, but mainly a lot of people saw this move as self-absorbed and unnecessary. It joins the growing list of celebrity quarantine-blunders.

The infamous Tana Mongeau stayed on-brand by suggesting that she would send a nude photograph to some of her followers that proved they voted for Biden. This sounds like a fair exchange for her democratic fans, except that it may be election fraud. Do learn from Tana—it is illegal to offer something in exchange for a vote.

On the other hand, it is completely fine to offer a reward for people to register to vote, and David Dobrik did just that! In what may be one of the most effective voter registration events, Dobrik was able to get over 120,000 people to register to vote, according to data collected by HeadCount.org There’s no doubt David knows his audience, and if he keeps it up, Gen Z will be one of the key players this election.

There is an ever-increasing sense that people are not surprised by celebrities supporting a democratic candidate (if anything, a pro-Republican endorsement gets more chatter). Endorsements from Beyoncé or Oprah, while still valued, seem to do little to move the general population (take the 2016 presidential election as an example) towards a candidate. Rather than the actual politics of a post, what seems to matter is whether an artist is doing it at all. There is a lot of pressure from fanbases for their favorite artist to say something. Taylor Swift or the Rock speaking up about politics was less so about their candidate choice, but more so the fact that people could no longer project their own beliefs onto their silence.

It also seems that celebrities are learning that regardless of who they endorse, they are going to receive some backlash, so it is best to just be open about who they are passionate about. If they wish to remain neutral, they can simply encourage more people to get out and (register to) vote. Mobilizing their fan base to be engaged in politics in whatever way possible is ultimately the goal, as the more people involved in the electoral process, the closer the election results may be towards the will of the people—in theory at least.

Beyoncé performing at Hillary Clinton’s 2016 Get Out The Vote Event

Beyoncé performing at Hillary Clinton’s 2016 Get Out The Vote Event

Featured image composed of images of David Dobrik, Taylor Swift, Tana Mongeau, and Dwayne Johnson.

Is Pierre Menard a Plagiarist?

“Why don’t they try the same thefts? If they do they’ll find it's easier to steal Hercules’ club from him than to steal a line from Homer.” 

Virgil in response to critics of his thefts from Homer, according to Suetonius

“Immature poets imitate; mature poets steal; bad poets deface what they take, and good poets make it into something better or at least something different. The good poet welds his theft into a whole of feeling which is unique, utterly different from that from which it was torn; the bad poet throws it into something which has no cohesion. A good poet will usually borrow from authors remote in time, or alien in language, or diverse in interest.”

– T.S. Eliot, “Philip Massinger”

Determining what counts as plagiarism in art is notoriously tricky; the line between inspiration and ripping off is thin. No artist can create in a vacuum, nor can a work of art have meaning in one: all art exists in a lineage (or perhaps a web) of influence. Even Shakespeare based his plays on previous stories, and Proust wrote pastiches before composing his masterpiece. But we must draw the line between influence and stealing somewhere. As lawsuits like Katy Perry’s have shown, the potential for monetary penalties for getting it wrong is steep. And we clearly have an intuitive sense of when an artist has gone too far, as in the case of Led Zeppelin. Plagiarism also does not always align with copyright, so the law cannot be our guide here. We must find a way to demarcate plagiarism from inspiration without relying solely on copyright.

Of course, for plagiarism to be a meaningful concept, a certain notion of authorship is presupposed which does not hold for all artistic pursuits. In folk music, for example, songs – even ones for which a single author is known – are commonly considered communal material; it is a faux pas to claim individual ownership of a song. Borrowing lyrics and melodies from earlier songs was commonplace, and some even disdained writers of original material. Bob Dylan’s Greenwich Village subscribed to this more diffuse notion of authorship, and Dylan’s branding as a phony even before his “electric” moment was in part due to his insistence on writing original material (while generously borrowing old melodies, of course). Indeed, for forms which are not often considered “art” to Western audiences, such as many oral traditions, the notion of authorship which plagiarism presupposes is inconceivable. Stories or songs are passed down from one performer to another, with changes made according to the vagaries of memory and personal style. Some “postmodern” works of art, furthermore, challenge the relationship of spectator to artist, such that the work of the spectator is constitutive of the art itself; engaging with the piece is an active part of the creation of the art. They thus break down our ordinary ideas of authorship, making plagiarism harder to pin down. What we need is a conception of authorship which attributes an artistic work – and even what can be said to be art is up for questioning – to a distinct individual for plagiarism to make sense. 

Still, even when working under this idea of authorship, not every instance of borrowing is rightfully considered plagiarism. Here is where “intertextuality” is usually invoked, usually defined as when a text references another, thereby appropriating its meaning for its own purposes. A prominent example is the photomontages of Hannah Hoch, which borrowed and combined magazine clippings, advertisements and paintings to create entirely new pieces. She often re-appropriated male images of the female form, as in her famous work “The Sweet One,” to satirize the monstrosity produced by the male gaze. Hoch, then, in Eliot’s words, “welds [her] theft into a whole of feeling which is unique,” makes “it into something better or at least different” than the originals she uses. In a word, she re-contextualizes the elements of previous artists, as Virgil did to Homer’s lines. The meaning of her work is understood through reference to the previous works she uses.

Hannah Höch: The Sweet One 1926

Hannah Höch: The Sweet One 1926

Although Eliot is suggesting a criterion for separating good poets from bad, perhaps we can use it to demarcate plagiarism from influence: if the stolen idea is put to different use, is re-contextualized in some way, it is not plagiarism. This would explain why Hoch does not plagiarize the images she uses and why Virgil and Dylan stole, but are not plagiarists. Richard F. Thomas, in his book Why Bob Dylan Matters, notes a further difference between the two:

intertextuality is as far as you can get from plagiarism, which is a practice meant to escape notice. Plagiarism is about passing off as your own what belongs to others. In contrast, the most powerful and evocative instances of intertextuality enrich a work precisely because, when the reader or listener notices the layered text and recognizes what the artist is reusing, that recognition activates the context of the stolen object, thereby deepening meaning in the new text.

We therefore seem to have a way of differentiating intertextuality from plagiarism. Plagiarism tries to disappear, while intertextuality calls attention to itself; plagiarism does not build on the meaning of the original, whereas intertextuality adds new layers of meaning. Intertextuality allows the artist to acknowledge and make reference to a particular tradition, while simultaneously adding something original to it. They can thus stand in a more complex relationship to their tradition, be it one of criticism, irony, reverence and so on. Plagiarism does none of this.

The two differences, then, might be summed up as follows. (I) Intention: plagiarism wants to be invisible; intertextuality, for its full purpose to be comprehended, must be noticed. (II) Meaning: plagiarism adds no new meaning to the plagiarized work; intertextuality does. Also note that here intention seems inseparable from meaning, but that we can distinguish them for clarity for now.

But there’s a potential problem with this attempt at a definition: it might not include much of anything as plagiarism. In his story “Pierre Menard, Author of the Quixote,” Jorge Luis Borges provides a reductio of sorts of this definition. The story consists of a monograph, written by one of Menard’s “true friends,” which seeks to justify the recently deceased author’s final project. 

Those who have insinuated that Menard devoted his life to writing a contemporary Quixote besmirch his illustrious memory. Pierre Menard did not want to compose another Quixote, which surely is easy enough – he wanted to compose the Quixote. Nor, surely, need one be obliged to note that his goal was never a mechanical transcription of the original; he had no intention of copying it. His admirable ambition was to produce a number of pages which coincided – word for word and line for line – with those of Miguel de Cervantes.

We will analyze his project in terms of our definition of plagiarism, in the stages through which his project evolves. Menard’s first method was to “be Miguel de Cervantes” – he learned Spanish, converted to Catholicism, and attempted to forget the history of Europe after Cervantes’ time. This was his intention in producing another Quixote. He eventually gives up this course, however, because “To be a popular novelist of the seventeenth century in the twentieth seemed to Menard to be a diminution.” 

According to our definition, this stage of the project seems to be a clear case of plagiarism. His intention was to disappear, to be Miguel de Cervantes. His own identity – as an author writing in the twentieth century, whose first language is not Castilian but French etc. – had to be ignored for this attempt at composing the Quixote to succeed (or, rather, to fail in an interesting way). And the note’s reason for Menard to try a different tact shows why, according to our author, no new meaning would be added by this composition – it would be just as Cervantes wrote it. As Menard wrote to our author, “Composing the Quixote in the early seventeenth century was a reasonable, necessary, perhaps even inevitable undertaking; in the early twentieth, it is virtually impossible.” So he changes his course: he will continue being “Pierre Menard and [come] to the Quixote through the experiences of Pierre Menard.” Composing it thus is the more interesting attempt, and, as the author argues, will add meaning to the Quixote through the changed context of its composition.

“Menard’s fragmentary Quixote,” he notes, “is more subtle than Cervantes’.” Cervantes’ comedic juxtaposition of country life with Don Quixote’s fantasies is “crude”; Menard, “with perfect naturalness,” avoids such trivialities. When Cervantes’ Quixote comes down in favor of arms instead of letters, it is natural and understandable; when Menard’s does so, it seems a manifestation of Menard’s “resigned or ironic habit of putting forth ideas that were the exact opposite of those he actually held.” Our author sees those words from Menard’s Quixote – “a contemporary of La trahison des clercs and Bertrand Russel” – as more complex, precisely because of the changed context of its utterance. 

Our author then recounts – with an apparent touch of irony from Borges – several “identical” passages from both Quixote’s, comparing their respective meanings. Cervantes’ passage is “mere rhetorical praise of history,” whereas Menard’s is praised loquaciously: 

History, the mother of truth! – the idea is staggering. Menard, a contemporary of William James, defines history not as a delving into reality but as the very fount of reality. Historical truth, for Menard, is not “what happened”; it is what we believe happened. The final phrases… are brazenly pragmatic.

Again, it is the context of Menard’s composition which creates its meaning. This new attempt, then, satisfies our definition of intertextuality. Menard does not try to make the original disappear, nor does he try to erase his own identity from the composition. The meaning of the work also deepens, becoming more complex as layers of irony and ambiguity are added. 

Is this not absurd? It begs the question of whether our definition is meaningful at all. Borges’ parodic style suggests that he senses the inanity of it all. But there is a serious point to be made. If context constitutes meaning, as the story seems to imply, then every new reading would generate additional layers of meaning – every new reading would be a different story. Like in many of Borges’ works, authorship in “Pierre Menard” isn’t stable. It is subject to tellings and retellings, filtered through memory and the inclinations of the particular author. The reader must also then make meaning from the text, not find it in the text. The reader, like the author, is a particular individual in a particular time and place, and relates to the text accordingly. They constitute the text and its meaning just as the author does. The story thus mirrors Barthes’ theory of reading in S/Z, where reading is equivalent to writing “by transforming the reading in re-writing.” 

To return to our definition of plagiarism, on this reading of “Pierre Menard” it seems that our second condition, meaning, will always be satisfied. There is no possibility of creating identical meaning; there is, on this reading, no possibility of plagiarism. Even Menard’s first attempt at writing the Quixote – to become Cervantes – would add new layers of meaning, because meaning is unstable, constantly prone to being revised and amended.

to read the Odyssey as though it came after the Aeneid, to read Mme. Henri Bachelier’s Le Jardin du Centaure as though it were written by Mme Henri Bachelier. This technique fills the calmest books with adventure. Attributing the Imitatio Christi to Louis Ferdinand Céline or James Joyce – is that not sufficient renovation of those faint spiritual admonitions?

Menard rejects becoming Cervantes not just because it is impossible, but also because it is boring. Menard was right: we can only understand the text, to the extent that we can, through ourselves, and through its relevance to our time. It is the mark of great literature that it remains vital and relevant to new times, that it continues to speak to different experiences. When it no longer does so we are left with a stale alexandrianism, with Menard’s academic attempt to become Miguel de Cervantes. Borges is warning us to not let literature fall into this: to not let reading become boring.


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HBO's We Are Who We Are: Coming of Age in Lasting Color

If we take a moment to think about what it means to be young, multitudes of overly-emotive buzz-words might come to mind. Angst. Ignorance. Chaos. Feeling everything, everything, everything. 

It’s the new HBO series, Luca Guadagnino’s We Are Who We Are (stylized as WRWWR) that reminded me of these very moments. The show follows the lives of a bundle of teens on an American military base stationed in Italy; the camera weaves throughout their lives oh-so slowly, languid and balmy in a way reminiscent of Guadagnino's Call Me By Your Name (2017). As I draft this from my back porch, fingers, nose, and toes chilled from the crisp Chicago air, I can only wish to be in this warmth. 

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It’s in an Italian airport that we meet Fraser (Jack Dylan Grazer), eclectic and blasé, from his painted nails and bleach dye-job to his short-temper and smart mouth. His mother (Chloë Sevigny) and her occupation drive him in and out of towns until they land, this time, on an American military base in Italy. He expresses his disinterest in the town to no end, and as we follow him roaming the base, we learn that wandering seems to be the best way to try and figure out who you are. It’s what much of the kids in this show do, since there really isn’t much else. There’s no room to get lost. 

He takes a peculiar interest in Caitlin (Jordan Kristine Seamón), shadowing her as she ventures throughout the town. She seems to be quite the simple girl; she’s decently popular, goes to class, and is in a relationship with a boy named Sam (Benjamin L. Taylor II). But we soon discover much more than meets the eye. Fraser’s interest magnifies when he trails her down to a local shop to find her dressed in her father’s clothes, cap sitting low, getting a woman’s number. Harper is what she calls herself, not Caitlin. From then on, the two stick together.

Jordan Kristine Seamón as Caitlin

Jordan Kristine Seamón as Caitlin

Jack Dylan Grazer as Fraser

Jack Dylan Grazer as Fraser

She’s the power of the body. She’s the disruption of the enigma of the body, which is typical of adulthood.

Francesca Manieri, writer for WRWWR, on Caitlin

Much like Fraser’s outlook on life, I’d like to think there’s no need to identify with a version of ourselves that feels false. There are no roles destined for us, no matter how alienated we might feel from the world. It’s falling prey to the alienation from ourselves that is truly harmful in the long run. Of course, these are simply words on a page. It’s not that easy, and I don’t think it ever will be. For the kids on the army base, things are straight to the point, no wiggle room. It’s Fraser who stirs things up, and for Caitlin, he’s opened up a completely new door and shows her that she can be somebody else. 

They test the boundaries of their small world through the act of self-discovery. In the first two episodes, gender presentation and identity aren’t explicitly talked about. It’s in the motions, subtle but strong. Blurred lines. Gift-giving. Vague words with strong implications.

That is, until episode three. It comes to fruition as the two lay side-by-side on Fraser’s bed, looking at pictures of people pre and post-transition. Caitlin’s fingers run across the computer screen in wonder and curiosity, and Fraser tells her that “you can cut that bullshit.” The binary, the gender roles, all of it. As the camera floats around them, Blood Orange croons, “Come into my bedroom, come into my bedroom…” 

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Devonté Hynes, widely known under his alias Blood Orange, is the musical genius behind WRWWR’s score. From Palo Alto (2014) to Queen & Slim (2019), Hynes already has a bit of work under his belt; Guadagnino claimed Hynes was the only artist he wanted to make music for the show. It's what made me want to watch it in the first place. I’ve often caught myself wishing Hynes’ music could be the score of my own life; it’s nostalgic and familiar, stirring up a cosmic force inside of me that breathes, “burn bright and live.” 

A few of his songs under Blood Orange appear throughout the show. Time Will Tell, though, off his 2013 album Cupid Deluxe, is the anthem.  Diegetic, too, not just background music. Fraser plays it in his headphones often, winding it forward and back to hear the good parts, and when he shares an earbud with Caitlin… 

Time will tell if you can figure this and work it out

No one's waiting for you anyway, so don't be stressed now

Fraser runs it back, and when Caitlin questions, “Again?” Fraser simply responds, “I like the way he says that.” 

The lyrics are comforting in a way that’s adverse to the first three episodes’ set of titles, “right here right now.” Perhaps it’s a play on urgency. The way every moment of your teenage years feels so monumental. The way we have the innate desire to figure it all out. Fraser, though, seems to be in no rush.

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We Are Who We Are is currently streaming on HBO.

Photos courtesy of the official WRWWR Instagram

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Renegading: TikTok's Takeover of Music

Seven months ago, amid an intense promotion rollout for her latest album Future Nostalgia, Dua Lipa ventured into the world of TikTok. “I wasn’t gonna start making TikToks and this may be the only one EVER...” she teased while telling her fans to go and follow her account.

A global pandemic, postponted tour, and a possible shutdown of TikTok by the federal government later, Dua’s latest music video for her song “Levitating” was just released in close collaboration with TikTok. So how exactly did TikTok go from an almost-taboo app to one of the best promotional tools in the music industry?

TikTok joins a long list of social media apps that have been utilized as promotional material. These apps are designed to hold people’s attention, so it’s no surprise that they slowly evolve from social spaces to advertising opportunities. Unlike Facebook or Instagram, however, TikTok (unintentionally or not) contains the perfect ecosystem for music promotion unlike anything else before it.

Graphic via

Graphic via

Most obviously, the app is focused on audio. Remove the audio from a TikTok, and its essence is gone. More importantly for the music industry, however, the audio used in each TikTok is easily displayed. Unlike Twitter or Instagram videos, users no longer have to look up what catchy song is being used. You simply look down and the audio is there for you to search up in full or use yourself. Also important for users, copyright is rarely an issue since TikTok appears to have deals with most publishing companies to allow music to be played without a problem.

It is this simple interface and encouragement of use that makes TikTok such a perfect community for sharing new music. This has given rise to a slew of new artists blowing up from their songs being circulated on TikTok. LOVEFRiDAY ‘s “Mia Khalifa” currently has over a hundred million views on YouTube from its 2018 success on TikTok. An even more well-known success story from the early years of the app is Lil Nas X’s “Old Town Road”. While he utilized social media in its entirety to promote his song, it was his coordinated use of TikTok as a promotional tool that ultimately resulted in the unprecedented success of the song.

Image via

Image via

Similar to Dua Lipa, other label-backed artists have found themselves trying to start up a TikTok dance craze with their new songs. Chole x Halle started the #DoItChallenge to increase promotion for their single “Do It”. It is hard to tell if the success of the song can be attributed to TikTok alone, but their push for the platform to adopt their song is nonetheless emblematic of the shift in promotional strategies for record labels. Even Sufjan Stevens, who is not usually synonymous with trendy dances, featured TikTok dancer Jalaiah Harmon in his video for Video Game.

What happens when already established artists accidentally blow up on the app? Melanie Martinez, for example, recently found that a deluxe bonus track from her 2015 debut album had “taken on a life of it’s own” instead of any material from her 2019 project K-12. While it may be said that any promotion is good promotion, TikTok is certainly a gamble on whether the material artists want to blow will.

Alternatively for new artists, the short-clip structure of TikTok has made it hard for their music to be taken seriously as anything more than a soundbite. The comments under Curtis Waters’ track “Stunnin’” reveal that listeners were taken back by how explicit the entire song is. Whereas catchy clips make it easy for songs to go viral within the app, the future success of an artist requires that their entire catalog shows as much promise. Artists like Doja Cat have fared better, with TikTok hits like “Say So” boosting her career to another a new level.

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As a result, the app’s musical ecosystem is being divided between different sectors with varying degrees of legitimacy and influence. There are the TikTok stars that are clearly, at least to some of their audience, being paid to advertise a song; the indie artists trying to get discovered through the app; and the organically-grown hashtags that have made certain songs blow up.

It is increasingly becoming clear that although exposure on TikTok can be bought, it does not provide the same level of fame that comes from accidental-trends. Returning to Dua Lipa, she noted that her first TikTok was a piece of content “that my label are gonna be so bloody happy I made.” This came after her single “Don’t Start Now” had begun to climb the charts in large part to TikTok. Several months later, her latest single “Levitating” will most likley do pretty well, both for its own merit as well as the TikTok collaboration, but said collaboration will probably not catapult the song into the level of fame her label would hope. Indeed, singers, both new and old, hoping to make it on TikTok will have to keep shooting for the stars.


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Examining The Millennium’s (Cyber)Space Age

 

While stuck at home, staring at my computer screen from what feels like dawn to dusk, I’ve been thinking a lot about pop culture’s reckonings with technology. Fashion and design often channel the desires and anxieties of the masses into aesthetic innovation, one of the most fascinating examples being the late 1990s-early 2000s space age 2.0: the cyber edition.

This era infused a certain bubbly optimism into a previously self-serious decade dominated by grunge and gangsta rap. The Cold War mentality and fears of a nuclear holocaust were finally fading away, the economy was hopeful, and a bright, utopian, escapist future seemed closer than ever. The late ‘90s embraced a new space age as it saw the possibility for the millennium to either end the world in a crash of binary code or actualize the idyllic future the late 1960s and ‘70s had promised but failed to produce. Unlike the ‘60s space age, this utopia was to be realized not by looking to the stars, but by means of an equally intangible future of extreme connectivity via the Web 2.0. It was believed to promise “a placeless, raceless, bodiless near future enabled by technological progress,” as sociologist Alondra Nelson explains in Future Texts.

This revamped idea of futuristic optimism was reflected in updates on ‘60s space age designs, modernized by the incorporation of “cyber” aesthetics. Advancements like the iMac and Windows 98 became stylistic staples of the era, and bright colors, holographic imagery, and robotics emerged into fashion. There are entire blogs dedicated to the preservation of Y2K-era design in media, architecture, and interior design, but the futuristic niche’s aesthetics and philosophies were best crystalized in music culture.

2002: Pop star Kylie Minogue kicked off her concerts by emerging from a “Kyborg” inspired by the female robot Maschinenmensch from Fritz Lang’s Metropolis (1927). Images via here & here.

Techno-futurism’s pop culture invasion was pre-empted by the mid-’90s dominations of director Hype Williams’ maximalist, fish-eyed music videos, as his collaborations with the likes of Bad Boy Records and Missy Elliott redefined the visual language of hip-hop. A crucial aspect of Hype Williams videos was their fresh stylistic vision of hip-hop, courtesy of costume designer and frequent Williams collaborator June Ambrose. The first half of the ‘90s was occupied by grittier rap visuals, but Ambrose saw an opportunity to change the mainstream narrative of hip-hop to a lifestyle conflated with glamour and innovation.

Diddy’s Bad Boy Records often celebrated Black capitalism and material gains as a means of liberation, and Ambrose cemented this ethos with her costuming (most famously via Ma$e and Diddy’s infamous “shiny suits”). Ambrose was also behind almost all of Missy Elliott’s timelessly futuristic music video ensembles—including the “Hip Hop Michelin Woman” look in The Rain (Supa Dupa Fly) (1997)which are still cutting edge 20+ years later.

“[My styling] was about creating these aspirational images that would catapult the culture into a stratosphere in which they were going to economically going to be worthy of. They were making the money and touring the world, so why can’t we be in high fashion? Why can’t we make costumes that are extremely larger than life?” —June Ambrose, via.

L-R: stills from the music videos for The Rain (Supa Dupa Fly)Mo Money Mo Problems, She’s A Bitch, Feel So Good, and Beep Me 911.

Missy Elliott’s videos can’t be strictly classified under Y2K futurism because they are, quite frankly, in a league of their own. Sock It 2 Me (1997) features Missy, Lil’ Kim, and Da Brat flying high above Earth as robot warriors on a hyper-pigmented alien planet, fighting oppressive androids and dancing through space. She's A Bitch (1999) is a largely monochromatic, militaristic, cyberpunk declaration of unapologetic individualism and power. Missy utilizes the philosophies of Afrofuturism, a multimedia genre which presents “the black cultural experience of freedom achieved through sci-fi, ancient African cosmology and magical realism.”

Visuals from Sock It 2 Me (top) and She’s A Bitch (bottom).

Afrofuturism is a counterpoint to the view that blackness is intrinsically primitive, imagining a world in which space and technology are explicitly tied to Black prosperity. In the ‘70s, the preeminent technological innovation was space travel, and Afrofuturistic art imagined Black people utilizing it to find realms their own. They conceived of being transported, of a mystical mothership to liberate them from the post-Jim Crow physical world which had been laid waste to by racism, poverty, and oppression. In the ‘90s, the idyllic future was a world in which robotics, algorithms, and other budding digital concepts would empower Black people, with the belief that cyberspace could connect the African diaspora across the globe.

One of the most stunning film sequences of all time, from The Wiz (1978). A very Afrofuturistic piece of visual art, mixing distinctly mystical elements with disco, funk, ball culture, ballet, jazz, and modern dance.

Though Missy x Hype productions proliferated the presence of futurism in pop culture, the video that drew the definitive blueprint for Y2K futurism’s music video design wave was Michael and Janet Jackson’s Scream (1995). The first and only collaboration track between the two, Scream was their musical reckoning with everything that pissed them off about society and the media. Smashing percussion, an industrial soundscape, and tense vocals punctuated their frustrations.

The video followed in Afrofuturistic tradition, imagining space as the only place that the Jacksons could be free from the struggles that plagued their Earhtly lives. The siblings bounce around a hypermodern spaceship complete with a zen garden, squash court, and plenty of furniture and hallway space for them to pose on with maximum angst. Its influence is clear in the set design of the remainder of ‘90s music video interpretations of the future.

As seen in the furniture of Scream, a particularly prominent facet of Y2K futuristic design was the inclusion of callbacks to ‘60s and ‘70s retrofuturism in home design. Fixtures included candy colored interiors, wood paneled walls, plastics, curvy structures, and Verner Panton-esque sets that could’ve come straight out of 2001: A Space Odyssey:

From left to right: images from the music videos for Hands Up, Come On Over, Upside Down, I Do, and Things I Heard Before.

Unlike the extreme sleekness and streamlined design we associate with futurism today, Y2K futurism was optimistic about the integration of the digital with the natural. Blobs, curves, and other biomorphic designs were common. An era-specific manifestation of merging an industrial future with natural elements was the surreal, CGI-liquid effect in music videos:

L-R: images from the music videos for What’s It Gonna Be?!, Carte Blanche, Holla, Baby Come On Over, and Liquid Dreams.

The most common trend in the Y2K futurism school of design was the presence of technological motifs. Though many videos were set in spacecrafts, hangars, or vaguely extraterrestrial-looking tubes, the presence of aliens was essentially replaced by technology. Unlike the ‘60s and ‘70s in which space exploration and extraterrestrial life was the country’s greatest fascination, the late ‘90s and early ‘00s were more occupied with just how advanced and pervasive technology would become. Artificial intelligence, holograms, and futuristic transportation methods were the more pertinent unknowns:

L-R: images from the music videos for Leave It Up To Me, Spice Up Your Life, Bring It All To Me15 Minutes, and I’m Gonna Getcha Good.

The girl group boom of the late ‘90s leaned particularly hard into futurism, following in the footsteps of ‘70s group Labelle who themselves rode a particularly prominent wave of Afrofuturism. Labelle was originally modeled in the image of a doo-wop, Motown-esque vocal group, but in the ‘70s they pivoted to funk and found massive success. Hits like Lady Marmalade displayed their unflinching power, sexuality, and individuality, and they became the first Black vocal group to be on the cover of Rolling Stone. While more glam rock, sci-fi, extraterrestrial focused designs reflected what the ‘70s thought of as futuristic (see: Parliament Funkadelic, David Bowie), girl groups in the ‘90s pivoted to leather, robotics, and geometric cut-outs.

L-R: Labelle, Destiny’s Child, Blaque, 702, and TLC. Images linked.

TLC’s entire FanMail (1999) album—released a month before similarly period-defining film The Matrix—was bursting with technological prescience. It was a message to their fans about confidence and the importance of retaining our humanity in the budding digital age (“there's over a thousand ways to communicate in our world today / and it's a shame that we don't connect). The album cover is coated with binary code and featured the group covered in silver body paint, reminiscent of androids. Their idyllic future was one where archaic gender standards are done away with in favor of independence, sexual liberation, and emotional vulnerability.

The Hype Williams directed video for TLC’s No Scrubs (1999) video was the prototype for the ‘90s girl group plus futurism formula. Heavily influenced by Scream, it was similarly set in a space station in which the artists defy gravity while dancing around various hallways and tubes in black leather and shiny outfits. Alternatively, it included some explicitly late ‘90s aesthetics such as frosty makeup, colorful metallics, and their outfits displayed an overall shift toward the industrial and cyberpunk aesthetics that dominated the remainder of Y2K futurism’s presence in music (see: Blaque’s Bring It All To Me and 702’s You Don’t Know)

The Y2K futurism aesthetic found its most emphatic teen pop articulation in the music video for the Backstreet Boys’ Larger Than Life, directed by pop culture mainstay Joseph Kahn. It was quite on the nose about its anticipatory Y2K messaging—a single off of the album titled Millennium (1999), the video is located in a spaceship, set in the year 3000. The song itself is a message to their fervent, worldwide fans, expressing gratitude for all their screams and adoration (and allowance money), as they exclaim “all you people can’t you see, can’t you see / how your love’s affecting our reality?” The fans responded in kind, making Larger Than Life the most requested video on MTV’s Total Request Live for a record breaking number of weeks. At this point in their careers, the group was dominating the pop music landscape and the video’s implication was clear: there was nowhere else for them to conquer but the cosmos.

The CGI used was revolutionary at the time, reflected in the $2.1 million price tag. All five Boys star in separate tableaus featuring futuristic tech like androids, cryogenic chambers, and wireless headsets. In the dance breakdown scene, the group sports exceedingly cyberpunk outfits, making for an overall archetypal ‘90s interpretation of the future. They remained thematically consistent throughout the Millennium era, integrating Star Wars music cues, hover boards, and sci-fi inspired armor into their 2000 Into The Millennium tour.

Images via here & here.

Y2K futuristic design phased out after 2002, following the cultural decline of hope that the new millennium was going to be all that different from the last. 9/11, the Iraq War, the bursting of the dot-com bubble, and the economic crash all seemed to contradict the utopian imagination of Y2K futurism’s aesthetics. In the following years, its showy, bright maximalism would fall from grace—a change made abundantly clear from the new aesthetics of technology, which are often key indicators of how we’re imagining the future. Chunky, rounded, glowy iMacs became sleek, efficient, monochromatic MacBooks.

Lil Nas X, Janelle Monae, Lady Gaga, and FKA Twigs are just a few of the artists that have begun to ride a new wave of pop music futurism. But as phenomena like dubiously ethical CGI, unjust surveillance software, exclusionary social media algorithms, and countless data breaches raise questions about the moral boundaries of our current technological advancements, what could we imagine a techno-utopia to look like in the increasingly dystopian 2020s?


Featured image via, from We Need A Resolution (2001).

 

Join the MODA 2020-2021 Team!

Interested in becoming a member of the MODA Executive Board, Blog or Magazine team? Apply for any (or all!) of the positions you’re interested in and we’ll be in touch soon to schedule follow up interviews or invite you to our next meeting!


 

MODA Blog - Due Tuesday October 13th at Midnight

 

MODA Blog delivers daily articles on fashion, lifestyle, music, art, Chicago events and more. If you’re interested in developing your writing, photography or creative skills, and are looking for an opportunity to create content consistently throughout the year, the blog is right for you!

Available positions: Staff writers, Photographers and Creative visionaries.

Apply Here.


 

MODA Magazine - Due Sunday October 11th at Midnight.

 

MODA Magazine is a student-run fashion magazine at the University of Chicago that publishes issues quarterly. From analytical essays to editorial-style photoshoots, to a podcast to artistic web design, the Magazine is perfect for anyone looking to work collaboratively on a cohesive and comprehensive fashion zine with a critical eye on fashion and art.

Available positions: Writers, Photographers, Creative Directors, Beauty Editors, Social Media, Event Planning, Visual/Web Designers, Podcast Directors.

Apply Here

 

 

MODA Executive Board - Due Tuesday, October 13th at Midnight

 
 


The Executive Board is in charge of MODA in its entirety, from running the annual fashion show to planning MODA strategy throughout the year. If you’re interested in what goes into putting together fashion events and shows through an administrative lens, then the Board is perfect for you.

Available positions: Assistant Marketing Manager.

Apply Here

We are also launching our first Diversity and Inclusion Council to help oversee and improve our organization's inclusionary principles. We are recruiting for members from all parts of campus who are eager to help contribute.

Available Positions: Council Member

Apply Here


 

Design

 

MODA’s Designer Boot Camp (DBC) program is an intensive course in fashion design and garment construction. The program is designed for UChicago students who are passionate about design but who lack sewing and construction skills. These skills are taught in weekly workshops led by an associate professor of fashion design at SAIC. At the end of the program participants will have created complete looks for the show, and learned the basics needed to continue to make great work.

Due to Covid-19, we predict that DBC and design will take a more unconventional form, but the design team is working hard to plan an appropriate presentation for prospective designers.

Available Positions: DBC Candidate, Regular designer

Apply here


Featured image via Natalia Rodriguez

Reclaiming Kitsch

Kitsch and commercialism are art’s not-part: they are what art or the avant-garde defines itself against, but what it is constantly in danger of becoming. Kitsch is, in a sense, art that lacks a certain quality which art aims for. Kitsch helps define art by its exclusion from it. In his 1939 essay “Avant-Garde and Kitsch,” influential critic Clement Greenberg tries to capture what kitsch lacks. He writes that kitsch is a product of the Industrial Revolution and the subsequent universalization of literacy. The proletariat, he claims, “learned to read and write for the sake of efficiency, but they did not win the leisure and comfort necessary for the enjoyment of the city’s traditional culture.” The workers, hungry for distraction and leisure, but “insensitive to the values of genuine culture,” were fed kitsch: familiar, easy to process, explicit in its intended effects. It harnesses a “fully matured cultural tradition” for the raw materials for its hackneyed ends; and what provided kitsch with new tricks to water down for the masses, Greenberg argued, was nothing but the avant-garde.

Greenberg didn’t prophesize the (post-)modern obsession with the ironic reappropriation of kitsch, made most famous in the work of Andy Warhol, but also present to some degree in the high-brow fantasy of Terry Pratchett, the self-aware comics of Alan Moore, and the idea of camp investigated by Susan Sontag. These artists reversed the flow of cultural materials identified by Greenberg. The low-brow informed the high-brow, in an explicit subversion of tastes. 

Panel from Alan Moore and Dave Gibbons’ critically acclaimed Watchmen (1987). Image via

Panel from Alan Moore and Dave Gibbons’ critically acclaimed Watchmen (1987). Image via

Still, the ironic re-appropriation of kitsch merely reinforces the avant-garde/kitsch divide, as what was once kitsch is converted to “true art.” It can only be appreciated ironically, that is, outside the intention of the original art. Kitsch still cannot be appreciated as kitsch.

With his acknowledgment of the reliance of the avant-garde on moneyed backers, Greenberg hints at a dialectic central to many discussions of art, one closely connected with the kitsch/avant-garde divide. It is virtually a truism to hold the demands of “art” to be in tension with those of “commercialism.” Popularity and quality are held, by some pretentious souls, to be related inversely. Greenberg’s opposition has, then, found another form to take. This tension is especially apparent in major label music. In rock this opposition manifests itself most often in debates over authenticity: who is and who isn’t, who sold out and who makes art. (Even when the two align we still talk as if they were diametrically opposed: did The Beatles make art that happens to be pop, or did they make pop that happens to be art?) 

It is also worth noting that what gets labelled kitsch has historically been connected with the prototypical consumers of the genre or medium; our value judgments of the art is fundamentally tied to our value judgment of its consumers. What held (holds) no appeal for wealthy white men was presumed to be simply bad art, rather than art which spoke to the concerns and desires of others with different experiences informing them.

This is not to say that terms as “kitsch” and “art” and “avant-garde” are useless or harmful and that we should abandon them. But juxtaposing them is less useful than is supposed; this is related to the implicit point that “kitsch” and “art” are not stable designations. Focusing on what kitsch is obscures the more important question of what kitsch does – for art, for artists and for critics. What kitsch does is provide something with enough superficial similarities to art to resemble it, but is in some way defective. Nabokov, for example, claimed to “loathe” science-fiction while writing the very sci-fi Ada; science fiction was for him not a genre or set of conventions but a boogeyman, a prima facie bad thing to be avoided. Science fiction, as kitsch, was definitionally bad, and so anything which resembled it, but was good, must not be science fiction.

What do we lose when we talk in the terms of this tired – and, as showcased by Greenberg’s essay, latently classist – dichotomy? 

 
Designer Jeremy Scott often turns to consumer culture as inspiration for his collections at Moschino, earning him a common attribution to kitsch. Image via

Designer Jeremy Scott often turns to consumer culture as inspiration for his collections at Moschino, earning him a common attribution to kitsch. Image via

For his fall 2019 show, Jeremy Scott re-imagined kitsch by presenting a Price is Right inspired collection.  Image via

For his fall 2019 show, Jeremy Scott re-imagined kitsch by presenting a Price is Right inspired collection. Image via

 

The appeal of kitsch, Greenberg argues, lies in the immediacy of the response it provokes, the explicitness of its intended emotional effect. Kitsch is a simulacra of the true effects of art, designed for those not “sensitive” enough to understand the real thing. I disagree. Kitsch is capable of the same depth of feeling, the same ambiguity, the same imaginativeness as the avant-garde. This is not to say that all kitsch is meritorious, or that all art is the same quality. It is only to say that the quality of a work of art is not a property of its being kitsch or avant-garde or “true art”; bad is not synonymous with kitsch. Kitsch is just another category of art, rather than being diametrically opposed to it. It is just another way of going about doing art, and is therefore capable of reaching the same heights as “true art.” Kitschiness gives artists forms of expression not available otherwise, allows artists to do things which are impossible without it. Analyzing art, even “high-brow” art, in terms of kitsch lets us see aspects of it we might otherwise miss.

To display this further, let us examine a piece of kitsch: Harry Nilsson’s “Without You.” It’s kitsch, I believe, for three reasons. The song, as a cover song of a commercially successful song, is familiar in precisely the way kitsch is meant to be. Next, the song is not ironically reappropriating kitsch (or can at least be plausibly and fruitfully read that way), and finally it harnesses the language and conventions of a “fully matured cultural tradition.” The final point – that Nilsson’s song utilizes a fully realized tradition – needs no argument: “Without You” is a pop-rock song working within the strictures of a well-established genre. The other two, however, require some elaboration.

The first point is really two: first, that cover songs are inherently kitschy, and second, that a cover of a commercially popular song adds to that kitschiness. Cover songs fit nicely into Greenberg’s criteria for kitsch. Because cover songs do not require writing original lyrics, or in some cases even instrumentation, they mirror the mass producibility of kitsch. (This is not to say that cover songs require no creativity – Nilsson definitively disproves that.) Furthermore, covering Badfinger’s “Without You,” a commercially successful pop song in the style of The Beatles (various members of which worked with Badfinger), adds to the familiarity with the work already present in a cover song. You’ve heard this song before, from the lyrics to the Beatlesque melodies (Christgau accused Badfinger of mining the territory of The Beatles too heavily). Covers take the idea of utilizing the raw materials of a “fully matured” tradition to nearly parodic levels, and ensure one’s familiarity with the work, then. Covering “Without You” can, I believe, be seen as a conscious decision to highlight this kitschy aspect of Nilsson’s proclivity for covers.

Finally, is Nilsson merely doing what I argued previous artists had done – namely, is he ironically reappropriating kitsch? At the very least, “Without You” can be plausibly read as a serious expression from Nilsson, and thus as a reclamation of kitsch; understanding the song in this way allows us to see a complexity we would otherwise miss. It is only by seeing it as kitsch that we can see the song in its full ambiguity and depth. Nilsson’s “Without You,” to this listener, seems plainly sincere. The instrumentation swells and shrinks according to the hyperbolic emotion of the piece, but does not overdo it. The instrumentation works primarily because of Nilsson’s vocal delivery: his performance is convincingly self-serious, showing no trace of irony. The vocals are over-the-top, and not too self-conscious about their own ridiculousness – held together by Nilsson’s impressive voice, capable of suppleness and strength at once. The two conspire to create the impression of entirely unironic melodrama. And why not? Is not melodrama a part of life?

Viewing the song as (at least partly) sincere kitsch allows an interpretation not open to the ironic interpretation. A kitschy cover of a kitschy song enables Nilsson to place a certain distance between himself and the sentiment of the song; after all, it could all be one big joke. The song is so over-the-top that Nilsson can shield himself behind the possibility of irony. This plausible deniability gives room for Nilsson to express himself in ways not open to him normally; as Wilde observed, a mask can give the freedom to tell the truth. The song thus takes on an element of tragicomedy as the listener confronts Nilsson’s absurd position, one of sincerity of feeling coupled with a sense of its own outlandishness. It hints at the curse of self-consciousness, familiar to Camus’ Sisyphus: the necessity of living one’s life and all the while feeling it to be ridiculous. And it suggests a way of living with that knowledge, one imbued with a sense of absurdist humor and balanced on the edge of irony and sincerity (which turn out to not be so opposed). The balance Nilsson achieves is fragile, susceptible to falling into either jaded irony or soppiness; the understanding of the silliness of one’s life must be paired with inhabiting it. The dialectic can never be resolved, only accepted. 

The conflation of kitsch with commercialism, as opposed to “real art,” highlights a tension inherent in all works of art. Greenberg’s Marxist leanings led him to see kitsch as a manifestation of capital’s ability to infiltrate all forms of production, including artistic. Thus kitsch lands somewhere between art and utilitarian object, and helps set up another dichotomy in terms of which art can be understood. Greenberg also noticed, however, how the avant-garde’s dependence on rich patrons indebted them to capital as well, and worked to dissolve their revolutionary potential. The difference between the two is, then, not entirely clear; but the juxtaposition, the definition (of art) by exclusion (of kitsch) remains. Art is contemplated, passively spectated, purely aesthetic, while objects are used, active, teleological. Objects are commercial products, art is not. Kitsch lies between these two poles, the idea goes, thereby making it not wholly art. 

Marina Abramović and Ulay. Image via

Marina Abramović and Ulay. Image via

These notions of the conditions of spectatorship for art have come under increasing suspicion in recent memory. A theme of much postmodern work has been to draw attention to the theory-ladenness of seeing and of the constitutive role it plays in creating the work of art. “Performance pieces” like Marina Abramovic’s “The Artist is Present” force the spectator to play an explicitly active role in constituting the piece, rather than being allowed to passively view a completed art object. The relation of spectatorship is made two-way, with “art” viewing and shaping spectator and vice versa. Passive and neutral spectatorship, work like Abramovic’s seems to be saying, was never possible. Abramovic’s work is not kitsch (it seems to be a repudiation of kitsch, in fact), but it does highlight how the barriers between kitsch and art are permeable, how kitsch and art as we understand them cannot be defined in opposition to one another. Pop songs, similarly, call attention to the kitschiness of all art. It is easy to forget in the days of streaming that songs are objects, and are bought and sold. They are unequivocally commercial: they are unequivocally kitsch. That doesn’t lessen them as art.

If art cannot define itself without an opposition to kitsch, where does that leave it? I couldn’t presume to begin to answer that question, except to say that we haven’t lost much.


Feature image via.

Summer Fashion Inspiration From Your Favorite Movie Characters

Summer plans might be looking a little different this year, but that doesn’t mean you don’t have any reason to dress up this summer. Vacations and music festivals might be replaced with neighborhood walks and Netflix, but fashion remains important. And who better to take summer fashion inspiration from than the characters from everyone’s favorite summertime movies?

Baby Houseman - Dirty Dancing

Images via here, here, and here.

Throughout Dirty Dancing, Baby pairs breezy, light-colored tops with denim for an effortlessly beautiful feel. To get her casual look, try pairing a pastel crop top or bodysuit with your favorite pair of shorts. Even if you’re not dancing your way into someone’s heart, you’ll still be perfectly dressed for the summer.

Elio - Call Me By Your Name

Elio generally sticks to patterned button-ups, striped tees, and denim. Wearing a bold-patterned top with a denim jacket will have you feel like you’re living out your dream of a summertime romance in Italy.

Images via here, here, and here.

Donna and Sophie - Mamma Mia

Mamma Mia’s iconic mother-daughter duo wear mainly white-and-blue peasant tops throughout the film. Pair your favorite peasant top or loose-fitting blouse with overalls or a jumpsuit to match Donna’s iconic overalls. You’ll have maximum comfort, and your white-and-blue color scheme will radiate a perfect summertime look.

Images via here, here, and here.

Jesse and Celine - Before Sunrise Series

Jesse tends to favor more structured jackets and tops, while Celine usually wears flowy, sleeveless tops and dresses. To recreate Celine’s look, try a plain tee layered under a sleeveless or slip dress, and to get Jesse’s look, try a casual shirt paired with a more elevated jacket.

Images via here, here, and here.

Mia - La La Land

La La Land shows us that you can never go wrong with a bold, solid-colored dress. Throughout the film, Mia and her friends wear dresses in every color imaginable. Patterned dresses can be fun, but a simple dress in your favorite color can be a great way to face the summer.

Images via here, here, and here.


Cover image via.

Films to Make You Feel the Heat

Here in Chicago, the sweltering heat was a bit of a curve-ball. That’s the city for you, though—you always have to expect the unexpected. 

As maddening as the heat can be, I’m reminded of the past. There’s something charming about taking the fans out of storage and batting your hands against your face for just a bit of relief. The stickiness of skin, the dampness of hair—all those feelings (albeit gross and uncomfortable) are signs of what’s to come: summer. 

Of course, with some restrictions still in place, many of us still don’t feel comfortable seizing the day and taking the heat for what it is—going outside and feeling it tenfold, that is. And so, I’ve compiled a wildly–and I mean wildly–diverse list of films where you can feel it through the screen. 

City of God (2002)

Dir. Fernando Meirelles and Kátia Lund

Dir. Fernando Meirelles and Kátia Lund

This Brazilian crime film follows the lives of two boys from the favelas of Rio De Janeiro—one wants to become a photographer, and the other is led down a vicious path to gang violence. Set on location in a real favela, the heat is not obvious—moreso it’s always there, lingering on the characters’ skin for us to see. It’s the combination of the breathtakingly high saturation and cramped nature of the slums physically pushing people together that makes it feel so muggy—it’s stifling in a way that only exemplifies the characters’ inability to escape the cycle of crime in their home. 

Y tu mamá también (2001)

Dir. Alfonso Cuarón

Dir. Alfonso Cuarón

Set over the course of the summer, two teenage boys take a roadtrip with an older woman they are looking to impress. Throughout their escapade, the trio find solace in each other in unexpected ways. They laze on their sheets with the windows open, lounge by the pool, crack open ice cold beers, and make their way to an apparently fictitious beach called Boca del Cielo (Heaven’s Mouth). It’s hot in the way that rural Mexico can be, and as the tension grows between the three, there isn’t much left to cool them down.

Hot Summer Nights (2017)

Dir. Elijah Bynum

Dir. Elijah Bynum

Changing gears for the lovers of teen film, Hot Summer Nights is what I would call an easy-on-the-eyes film: it’s simply fun to look at. Hotshot Timothée Chalamet plays an awkward city teen struggling to adapt to life in a small beach town. In over his head and looking to belong, he begins slinging drugs for his business partner—whose sister he’s slowly falling for. It’s nostalgic in a way I credit to the highly stylized nature of the film—a young boy is narrating the course of events in a way that makes it seem real, like something we should remember. Like the title suggests, the beach town of Cape Cod is absolutely scorching. I would be a bit delirious like the characters too, if I lived there. 

I Know What You Did Last Summer (1997)

Dir. Jim Gillespie

Dir. Jim Gillespie

I have no problem admitting I’m a sucker for slasher film: sure, it’s silly, but it’s entertaining. 90’s slasher films in particular hold a special place in my heart, and are a genre of their own. In this one, a group of teens are haunted by their past: after committing a crime the previous year, they are stalked by a vengeance-seeking killer who claims to have seen everything. I think the title speaks for itself, here. 

August: Osage County (2013)

Dir. John Wells

Dir. John Wells

Based off the play by Tracy Letts, this film follows the lives of a family–to describe them as dysfunctional would be an understatement–who come together after the death of the patriarch. The Weston sisters, in particular, bear the brunt of their mother’s venom. The title of the film tells us exactly when and where we are—it is August, an unusually hot August at that, in rural Oklahoma. The heat bears down in ways that only heighten the brutality of the family’s feelings toward each other, and as it gets hotter, hotter, hotter, all that’s left is for everything they’ve hidden to explode. 

Do The Right Thing (1989)

Dir. Spike Lee

Dir. Spike Lee

As one of Spike Lee’s most influential films, when I think of unbearable heat, this is the first that comes to mind. Unlike the other films on this list, Do The Right Thing takes place on one single, sweltering day—specifically, in a neighborhood in Brooklyn. It’s beautiful, hilarious, vibrant, frustrating, and most importantly, culturally significant. It’s a film everyone should watch at least once. If you’ve lived in a city, you know what it’s like to sit on the stoop and watch life go by: men and women sit and gossip, kids play in the water of the fire hydrant, and old friends catch up on what they’ve missed. The oppressive sun is nothing short of a catalyst to the conflict: as a heat wave bears down on the neighborhood all day, the racial tension that’s been simmering below the surface comes to a boil at night. 

Featured image via