Blogger Beauty Routines: Laura

Curious about a new beauty product on the market or looking to switch up your skincare game? Welcome to our Blogger Beauty Routines series, where our writers take you through their skincare, beauty and haircare regimes and talk favorite products, tips and tricks.


These are some new products that have worked for me this Fall!

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TOO FACED Born This Way Super Coverage Multi-Use Sculpting Concealer

COLOR: Warm Beige - medium neutral

I can say this concealer is definitely a must have for me. This product especially works great for dark circles or redness and lasts all day for me. I used to use Tarte’s shape tape concealer before discovering Too Faced’s concealer; I prefer this one because its consistency is lighter and applies well on my dry/combo skin.


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TOO FACED Chocolate Soleil Matte Bronzer

COLOR: Chocolate Soleil - medium to deep

I love this bronzer because it does not show up orangey looking and is great on warmer complexions. This bronzer gives you the perfect natural “glowing from within” looking tan on your checks and cheekbones.


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BURT’S BEES 100% Natural Blush with Vitamin E

COLOR: Bare peach

One of the best finds I’ve come across this Summer (maybe this year)! Originally, I purchased this blush in “toasted cinammon,” as recommended by beauty Youtuber and influencer, Kathleen Lights. However, I found the shade, “bare peach” works well if you are looking for a deep peachy, pink-ish shade that will still cast a bright and fresh look on your cheeks.


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L'Oreal Paris Voluminous Lash Paradise Mascara

This is a great, long wearing mascara, especially in color payoff and volume! Even if you have the teeniest lashes (like myself), this will work great on anyone.


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COVERGIRL The Super Sizer Mascara by LashBlast

I love to pair this particular mascara with the L’Oreal Paris Voluminous lash paradise mascara. Covergirl’s super sizer mascara will give you that extra length on your lashes that you are looking for!

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An Out of This World Collection

Despite the beauty community constantly being up in flames from controversial releases, copyright-questionable mimicking, and general criticisms from the endemic racial insensitivity from influencers and brands alike, Jeffree Star seems to be the one brand and influencer withstanding it all.

His releases of Blood Sugar and Thirsty were as successful as could be, both selling out before I could get my hands on them. And on November 9th, he debuted a highly-anticipated collection: Alien.

As seen below, the concept is absolutely cool and really sticks itself out from the many unicorn, fairy, and cutesy-themed releases.

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The collection itself is a colorful, space-inspired one containing lip scrubs, bullet lipstick, some liquid lips, and a palette. Of course, the packaging takes things to another level, breaking away from the regular rectangular palette shape. Jeffree opted for an alien-head shape (and Estee Laundry, of course, gave him a call out, as it resembles a palette from Hot Topic).

The palette comes with 18 shades, with metallics, mattes, and a color story that beats the boredom of the constant warm-brown nude palettes that are flooding Sephora. The palette retails for $52 and has the same reliable formula of his former palettes. The glittery shades have a duo-chrome shift, which will for sure step up your makeup game.

I’m mostly excited for the lip scrubs, which Jeffree Star Cosmetics has won my heart over. His lip scrubs smell and taste true to their names, and he with this new release he is introducing new lip scrubs such as pumpkin pie and eggnog. It’s the perfect stocking stuffer if you’re looking to holiday gift shop early!

I purchased two products from this line and am currently loving them. The Salted Caramel lip scrub and the liquid lip in “Jeffree Who?” are my most recent obsessions. Both are the highest quality products I’ve used in a while, bold and unique, finally breaking away from my inveterate loyalty to Glossier.

I’d recommend Jeffree’s release video to really get yourself hyped for this collection.

You can purchase this collection on his website or on Beautylish.

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This Week in Absurd Beauty Products: Whitenicious x Blac Chyna

Maybe the court of public opinion is being too hard on former model/stripper/reality star/social media influencer/makeup brand owner/party planner Blac Chyna. Maybe she hasn’t run out of things to monetize and isn’t now looking to make bank on the insecurities and the discrimination of dark skinned women. Maybe the cream is, as she claims, solely to help with dark spots and hyper-pigmentation!

Such defenses would be more believable if she wasn’t partnering with a brand whose name is practically too on the nose to be true: ‘Whitenicious’–the most direct synonym for ‘fetishization of whiteness’ I've ever heard.

Blac Chyna is releasing a new “beauty” product marketed as a luxurious "illuminating and brightening cream," infused with Swarovski crystals and selling at $250. She’s partnered with a company owned by Cameroonian singer Dencia that is known for their skin lightening creams. Dencia herself has received major criticism for years on account of the European beauty standards that are often used to market and sell her products. Blac Chyna received immediate backlash over the collaboration and the cream’s alleged purpose to lighten the complexions of women of color, mainly black women.

Chyna is headed to Nigeria to promote the cream, posting on her Instagram:

4,296 Likes, 3 Comments - Blac Chyna (@blacchyna) on Instagram: "Lagos Nigeria, join me at the first official launch of my face cream this Sunday November 25th..."

The debate over skin lightening versus brightening versus bleaching is a long and storied one within the black community, rooted in the even deeper issue of colorism.

Her “lighter is better” tour opening in Nigeria doesn’t help her case, as the World Health Organization reports that Nigeria has the highest proportion of women using skin lightening in the world. Approximately 77% of women in Nigeria use such products.

The debate over skin lightening versus brightening versus bleaching is a long and storied one within the black community, rooted in the even deeper issue of colorism. Colorism is a status system in which people of color, historically black women, are valued more if they have lighter skin over those with darker skin. This socially conditioned hierarchy has led many dark skinned women to seek skin lightening treatments in order to attain light skinned privilege.

A high profile black woman such as Blac Chyna endorsing a product that directly challenges the beauty and validity of dark skinned women is deeply disturbing. It preys on societally reinforced insecurities to sell an insanely overpriced product.

And come on, no one could think of a name that would be less of a PR disaster than “Whitenicious”?!


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Meet Kaja, an Adorably Packaged K-Beauty Brand

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Sephora and its steady stream of new releases always has me on edge. The fresh skincare collections have been my latest obsession, but recently, a new brand caught my eye: Kaja. This adds to the wave of the rise of K-Beauty. Brands like Glow Recipe, Laneige, and Saturday Skin have broken through American markets with adorable packaging, skincare routines, and handy products with Glossier vibes. Up-and-coming K-Beauty brand, Kaja translates from Korean as “let’s go.”

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This concept, I assume, is based on the ability for any of Kaja’s products to be easily stored for on-the-go looks. All Kaja products come with cute packaging in pastel colors, which make them perfect for display.

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Available on Sephora, Kaja currently carries eleven products, ten of which are makeup and one of which is skincare. The unique aspect of Kaja is its stackable products, such as their blush and eyeshadow. These items have applicators resembling stamps, for a bubbly accent. From my experience working with these, the pigmentation is really good. While the stamp applicator works well, it’s in the shape of a heart. Not sure how often I’ll use that. The brow product looks just like Gimme Brow or Boy Brow, so I’m not sure how special it can be.

What is really impressive to me is the shade range that Kaja offers. Considering that K-Beauty normally focuses on and caters to lighter skinned target populations, Kaja really went out of the regular market for this line. The concealer comes in twelve shades. At first, twelve might not sound like much, but the variety of shades ranges from fair to dark.

The lipsticks are really cute too. My first impression was that it was very similar to Fenty’s Mattemoiselle.

While the brand is still relatively small, I’m hoping it grows into a staple brand and I’m excited to see how they expand with their next product launch.

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Naked's Latest Palette Does Not Put the Cherry on Top

I thought something had to be wrong when I heard that Urban Decay was pulling their iconic Naked palette from their repertoire of makeup. In my eyes, it only left them with their All-Nighter setting spray and potentially the eye primer potion.

Then, not long after, the brand happily noted that they would release the newest addition to the Naked line: Cherry.

I wasn’t the most excited, since my satisfaction with Naked palettes ended after Naked 3. Naked Heat took a turn for the worse, only giving reddish colors that seem to only fit with fall looks. When I saw the teaser pictures for Naked Cherry, I was pretty excited. An entire pink-palette was a refreshing concept, since it looked like a better version of Huda Beauty’s Rose Gold one.

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So, naturally, I decided to explore the Naked Cherry collection, which comes with a blush set, classic bullet lipsticks and a limited-edition setting spray with a cherry scent.

And here’s my review:

The Cherry Palette is as about as exciting at the Heat Palette: it’s not. Urban Decay does have reliable shadows that are generously pigmented and offer moderately well-blending shades, but I think it’s time that Urban Decay retires the entire Naked theme. At this point, they’ve strayed too far from actual nude and neutral shades, that it shouldn’t even qualify for the title of Naked.

My biggest issue? The setting spray. I love myself a good Urban Decay All-Nighter spray… but when it smells like cough syrup? It’s definitely not what I want on my face. The heavily perfumed product tears apart the desirability for the product itself.

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Rihanna Is My Fairy Gothmother This Halloween

In order: Unbutton, Uninvited, Uncuffed, and Unveil (Image via)

In order: Unbutton, Uninvited, Uncuffed, and Unveil (Image via)

Rihanna has recently come out with an explosion of new makeup products for this upcoming holiday season. From a new highlighter palette to multi-purpose metallic crayons, she’s got your whole face covered.

However, in the spirit of Halloween I wanted to review the Fenty Stunna Lip Paint in the shade Uninvited, which is the goth-y black lipstick color of my emo dreams. Uninvited released alongside three other nude colors: Unveil, Uncuffed, and Unbutton. I personally have been loving Unbutton, which is an everyday peachy nude.

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In preparation of being Sam from Danny Phantom this Halloween (I know she wears purple but I want to go full angst mode), I picked up Uninvited to try out for the weekend. It happened to be that I was sick so my lips didn’t go through a whole day of usual wear, but instead suffered through a whole day of sniffling and consuming mass amounts of chicken soup.

Upon application the lip paint stayed wet and glossy on my lips for a few minutes before drying down into a smooth finish. I only needed a single layer for full opacity, which is super impressive for a black lip. My usual Wet n’ Wild black lip typically needs two applications for the look I desire. My lips didn’t look dehydrated or chapped like I had thought they would, and stayed the same way for the next several hours. Around hour five I noticed some fading, which is great for such a dark lip. The only issue I had was the the lip paints claimed to be non-transferrable which wasn’t true for me.

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Comparing Uninvited to other black lipsticks, it’s clear that it’s a strong contender. Not only was the opacity far better than other black lipsticks I’ve tried, but the finish of it is unique. The Fenty Lip Paints are a hybrid between a normal lipstick and a liquid lipstick in terms of texture and finish, leaving a sexy, velvet look. This is definitely going to be my choice for this year’s Halloween night.

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My Buys and Byes for Fall Quarter

Hello all! Welcome back to UChicago and welcome back to the billionth edition of “Yeju Talks about Makeup.” While I’d love to give you an update on my summer edit of my makeup binging, I’ll save you the hundreds dollars of regret and start the quarter off with something cheery. Here are the products I’ve been obsessed with recently that you should add to your collections and then I’ll give you a little “Do Not Buy” warning for some.

So, what am I loving this fall?

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Glow Recipe Blueberry Bounce Cleanser

With a new formula and packaging, K-Beauty’s up and coming brand Glow Recipe’s Blueberry Bounce Cleaner has replaced all Boscia and Glam Glow products in my makeup lineup. The smooth, oil-removing, and gentle cleanser is perfect for night-time skincare rituals to get rid of makeup or any excess oils. Not to mention, it smells great and looks great on shelves.

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Laura Mercier Oil-Free Primer

One of my summer impulse-buys, this product finally got me into primer. Normally, I think primer is a gimmick; Benefit’s Porefessional and Tarte’s Poreless Primer were too much dimethicone for my liking. But this is a lightweight, gel-based, vitamin-infused primer that creates a natural and dewy complexion for foundation. On good skin days, I even opt out of foundation and wear the primer as an illuminating base.

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Glossier Perfecting Skin Tint

The Glosser pop-up in Chicago might have changed my make-up game forever. I’ve officially opted for no-makeup makeup with this skin tint. Foundation has always been a shaky game for me, but this actually makes my skin look like a better version of itself. Paired with the Laura Mercier primer, I feel like I’m not even wearing makeup at all, but get just enough coverage for an even look.

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And… here’s what we’re ditching this fall…

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Sonia Kashuk Silicone Makeup Blender

I was really late to the silicone beauty blender trend, and I totally understand why the hype didn’t have me on the bandwagon immediately. After hearing that this blender was much more “hygenic” and saves more product than the normal sponges, I picked one up at Target. To my dismay, it’s literally the worst thing to happen to my makeup routine. The sponge doesn’t help blend at all. In fact, it pushes foundation all over your face without putting product in your pores. I also noticed that using this product made my makeup look cakey, leading to breakout prone skin. I’ll take a pass on that. Overall, it’s messy and doesn’t feel useful.

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Mario Badescu Facial Spray

I didn’t realize I’d ever want to ditch this product since it served as a great moisturizing spray, quick fix for dryness on off-days, and a primer if necessary. But since I switched to Boscia’s Rosewater Mist with Witch Hazel, I’ve been having better skin days and have seen my pores reduce in size. It’s not necessarily a bad product, but it’s just not the best anymore.

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Fight Against Trump's Tyranny with Liquid Lipstick

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Anyone that knows me well knows that I love a good liquid lipstick and that there's nothing that gets me going more than some pure advocacy and fighting for something. And when it comes to my unending personal vendetta against Trump? Don't even get me started. So when I was gifted this fine little bottle of lipstick for my birthday, I was more than happy and more than impressed.

With cute Andy Warhol-esque packaging and a surely agreeable message, Lipslut's F*ck Trump matte liquid lip is more than just a perfect addition to a lip collection. It's pretty, but with a cause.

Here's a rundown of what I think about the product.

Stacks on stacks 💄

A post shared by Lipslut Cosmetics (@hello.lipslut) on

First off, it's cruelty free and vegan, which makes it more admirable than a lot of products and big name brands out there.

In terms of quality? 8/10.

It feels a lot like a Colourpop liquid lip, with good consistency and pigmentation. The product seems to currently only come in one color, but the shade seems pretty universal. It's a darker reddish-pink and stays on for hours. I could potentially see the product having issues with drying out, but it's not something too serious. Basically, it's a solid makeup product. It also retails for $19.95, so it's not crazy expensive either.

But what makes it even more special (besides the rage it will add to my daily makeup routine) is what is stands for. Lipslut, the company behind this beauty, claims the following:

50% of all earnings from F*ck Trump go towards helping a civil rights organization targeted by the Trump administration. This organization is to be chosen by the people, as with every lipstick purchased comes an opportunity to vote.  

50% towards charity, 100% against tyranny. 

Finally, a lipstick as bold as you. 

Now shipping immediately! 💋

A post shared by Lipslut Cosmetics (@hello.lipslut) on

This is something I can definitely get behind.

Lipslut's website currently only holds two lip products - F*ck Hollywood being the other. The earnings from that product go towards groups that are working to help anti-sexual assault organizations. As the website says, we're tired of lip-service for social change. 

Check out Lipslut's Instagram and shop Lipslut here!!!

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NARS x Erdem

Arguably one of the sexiest brands in makeup, NARS, is collaborating this Spring with Turkish-Canadian designer Erdem for a Spring release collection of products with Erdem's signature floral artwork on the packaging. Expected to drop in April, the collection features lipstick as well as palettes. Check out the collection below:

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As a Turk myself, I must say I am quite happy to see a Turkish designer getting the recognition he deserves! You can buy this collection from Saks Fifth Avenue when it drops next month.

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Makeup Needs to Change

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Following the release of the uncomfortable, unacceptable, and laughably ridiculous shade range of the Shape Tape foundation, it really hit me that the makeup industry still has much more to learn, regardless of clear precedents and platforms of what should be reality.

While the company announced on social media that 10 more shades would be released soon, it only made me believe that this company viewed non-white shades and their consumers as an afterthought. Furthermore, there's really no guarantee that those shades will be the ones we're expecting. Why hype up and release a product that doesn't meet the right standards? Surely you can do better that, Tarte.

Some context:

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The Fenty foundation line with its 40 inclusive shade range set the precedent for other leading brands that it is possible and necessary to provide access to shades that accurately reflect the skin colors of the world, not just the “mainstream”, easy-to-make shades. The Fenty line not only created shade ranges that truly served consumer needs, but it also stripped the strange fetishizing shade names that plague the beauty industry. The objectivity behind her shading line with a numerical system didn’t have me raising my eyebrows.

How bad is this problem in the beauty industry?

We all know that a trip to Ulta, Sephora, or even the drugstore can rack up the beauty budget. Makeup is not cheap, especially for people of color. In many cases, the most accommodating shades to non-white shades are available in only the most expensive brands, denying people the same level of access to the art of makeup and personal expression.

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This past year, I began watching Nyma Tang on YouTube, seeing the gravity of the situation. Her brilliant YouTube series “The Darkest Shade” shows the magnitude of the problem: the darkest shade of these companies is ridiculous. When Nyma finds a shade that actually works for her, I find that relieved look on her face so unsettling. This isn’t the way the beauty industry should be. A skin-match should not be a surprise for anyone.

Below is Nyma's reaction to the Shape Tape Foundation line. Honestly, it's heartbreaking and sobering. She's right when she calls the intention and the collection trash. The hype created around the product when all brands are fully aware of complexion lines coming to the forefront of the beauty industry is completely inappropriate. It's time for makeup to change.

Why this is important:

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As an Asian woman, I really don’t know what it’s like to not have my shade in a foundation, or what it’s like to have a palette not compliment my skin tone. This privilege I have certainly blinded me in the past from realizing that the exclusion that still occurs in this modern day; however, I began to recognize the important of correcting this problem. Internalizing this sort of toxic and discomforting culture begins at such a young age.

Growing up, there were so few Asian models, either for cosmetic or fashion purposes. I found myself emulating Western eye looks, wondering why my hair didn’t curl a certain way, or struggling to find an eyeliner look that truly complemented my face. Perhaps this was also the responsibility of such a white-washed, confusing culture. Only when I started seeing models like Ming Xi and Liu Wen did I realize that not only was it okay to look the way I did but that an Eastern standard of beauty was beautiful. It took me 20 years and moving to a diverse campus to realize what it truly meant to realize and embrace non-Western standards.

So now what? It’s comforting – only to a certain extent – to see influencers such as Manny MUA, Jackie Aina, and James Charles talk about this problem, since they have the power to spread the word through their platforms, reach the companies, and eventually bring to everyone what they deserve.

For now, I have no thoughts to support a brand that refuses to receive criticism, that shows only reactionary reparations, and marginalizes an entire community that can move the art of makeup forward. This only increases my reservations for those companies that create products for certain groups of people. Beauty is everywhere and in everyone. It's time to respect that.

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Daily Makeup Routine by Kardelen

For some reason, I always structure my day so that it starts absurdly early. Because of this, I try to get as much sleep as possible- but this can be at the expense of the time I spend getting ready for the day. Below are my makeup favorites for getting ready for work at 8:30 am.

Brows

I use these products and these only for my brows, because they help to shape and fill them in. An upside- the brow gel is only $2.99! Below are Essence's Make Me Brow and It Cosmetics' Brow Power Pencil. 

Skin

This is where I get a little fanatical about my skincare regimen: I try my best to keep my skin hydrated, matte and blemish free, and am constantly experimenting with new products to see which is best for my combination dry skin. These are tried and true for me. Below are The Ordinary's Hyaluronic Acid serum, Neutrogena's Hydro Boost Skin Tint, Glossier's Priming Moisturizer, and Glossier's Wowder.

 

Eyes

For every day, I don't wear as much eye makeup as I used to. I used to go to my 9 am chem class with a full smoky eye, but that was first year. Now, I dab on some mascara, blot on some concealer, and call it a day. These go-to products are Loreal's Lash Paradise Mascara and Glossier's Stretch Concealer.

 

Lips

I wish I was the kind of person to wear lipstick every day, but it's not easy- it can be messy and hard to keep up with. I instead opt for smooth, hydrated lips with a little wash of shine using the cult favorite Balm Dot Com, and if I'm feeling fancy, I dab on a little of Elf's Lip Stain for that bitten-blotted lip look.

 

Then it's a little lavender cologne on the wrists, and it's time to go! 

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So What Exactly is a Lip Shadow?

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Clinique is a classic makeup brand that has a go-to skincare routine that everyone or their mom has tried out before. The 3-step routine does wonders to balance out oily skin, clean up full-face of makeup, and moisturize dry skin.

In terms of their makeup, I've been fairly unimpressed with Clinique's variety of products. Their chubby lashes mascara works, but is nothing special. Their priming moisturizer was a little too similar to Glossier's, and the mini eye and cheek palette I was gifted have gone to the back of my eyeshadow drawer.

Naturally, when I found out that Clinique launched lip shadows, I was intrigued. As someone who sets most of her lipstick with Laura Mercier's setting powder, I thought this would be a minimal-budge, efficient product that would finally be Clinique's rise to fame in my ranks of makeup brands.

Let's not get too excited though...

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My first impressions of this product was pure lack of impression.

The product has a cushion tip, the packaging looks a little like a less-bold version of Louboutin's eyeliner, and the feel of the product seems to have a generic formula. Upon application, the product looked and felt just like regular lipstick (Which was fairly disappointing). After a little bit, it sort of powderizes. Yes, it's literally just liquid lipstick that turns into powder. 

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I would like this product, but it's very messy since the cushion applicator is sort of huge for a matte cream product. All eight shades this product are available in standard lip colors, but none of them are special enough for me to want to invest in. The product goes get pretty powdery the longer you wear it, and initial application is a bit patchy that only gets worse.

Overall, I'd give this a 5/10, and it joins the rest of Clinique products that really just didn't do it for me.

 

 

 

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Sephora X ColourPop

ColourPop Cosmetics, known for their beautiful, cruelty-free, and affordable makeup, is partnering with Sephora to create an exclusive holiday line. The collection has 10 pieces and is available both online and in stores. If you're a fan of ColourPop, don't fret about this collaboration. Prices and quality will not suffer or change, but I would hurry quick though because these are definitely going to sell out within a few days!

Here are some of my favorite pieces down below.

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Feelin' Fine Lip Gloss Trio

Colourpop lip glosses have great pigmentation and last a while. If you're looking for colors perfect for the fall, this trio is for you. Because they have a shimmery finish, I'd recommend dabbing the gloss on the center of your lip, but if you want to use it all over your lips, it'll definitely be a show stopper.

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Golden State Of Mind Shadow Palette

This palette has a warm, shimmery finish. Perfect for the fall, you might ask yourself: would I want this though for the winter? During the cold weather, a nice wash with these eyeshadows over your eyelids can be that extra pop to your winter makeup look!

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Amber Crystal Collection Bundle

This trio includes a crystal-infused setting spray, liquid highlighter, and lip balm. Crystal makeup was ColourPop's new addition to their regular line, so through this collab, you get to try 3 of their amber line (which is not sold on their main website). Like most of this collaboration, the amber will add a nice fall warmth to your makeup collection.

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Legit AF Super Shock Highlighter Trio

ColourPop highlighters are buildable, so you're able to get the strobed glow that you want. This set has three shades, so if you want to give them as gifts, they're easy to divide as well! These highlighters are soft and have a unique-bouncy like texture, so I would recommend using your fingers for application.

If you want to learn more about ColourPop, check out MODA's review of it here!


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Beauty Brand Review: The Alchemist Palette

Though it was only released in December, Kat Von D’s Alchemist Palette has already become a cult favourite among makeup junkies. It’s sold out in pretty much every Sephora store, and usually online too. By some small miracle, I managed to get one. And let me tell you, from them needing to re-stock their Kat Von D inventory, to UPS having delivery issues, God sure tested me the whole time. In my opinion though, it was 100% worth the pain. 

The whole concept of the palette is based around medieval alchemy – the science of creating precious materials out of the mundane – and it’s been Kat Von D’s passion project for the last seven years. (Which, by the way, completely blows my mind. Seven years ago I was an angsty thirteen year old who liked eyeliner way too much and thought that knowing Nirvana basically made me queen of the alt scene. But I digress.) In it are four shimmery, holographic pressed powders that can be used as highlighters, eyeshadows, and even layered on matte lipsticks: {green}emerald, {blue}saphyre, {ultra-violet}amethyst, and {pink}opal. Inspired by the palette’s versatility, I did my own swatch of the colours, comparing them on my skin alone, and layered over white and black eyeliner:

I had only ever worn the shades on their own before, so I was really excited to see how they looked layered. The white eyeliner was more underwhelming than I had expected it to be, but I really loved how the black intensified the colour and really brought them to life. Taking all three combination swatches into account, I’ve ranked the palette accordingly:

4. {green}emerald

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Though I really love the colour of the emerald on black, I’m not super enthusiastic putting it on my face. I also thought it was interesting to see how the white eyeliner brought out much bluer tones in the powder than the other two swatches. Overall, the idea of green makeup reminds me too much of the 80s. However, it could work well to colour-correct red areas that you might also want to highlight.

3. {blue}saphyre

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It really pained me to rank saphyre next to emerald. I love this colour and how well it blends with amethyst. However, it also shares the “too 80s” problem. If used on a large area (think cheekbones or brow bones) it treads the line of looking gaudy. Saphyre is definitely best used on small areas like the inner corners of your eyes or your philtrum (the ridge between your nose and mouth). It also works really well with the white eyeliner to create an in-style frosty 90s eyeshadow.

2. {pink}opal

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Out of the three swatches, I definitely prefer opal on its own. My indifference, and almost dislike, towards its layered swatches almost bumped it to #3. However, at the end of the day its solo appearance is enough to help it maintain its position. I love opal because it’s so delicate and in turn versatile. I have a very fair skin tone, so the pink hues look natural against my skin. Personally, I tend to use it to highlight my brow bones. I tend to stick to warmer colours when I use eyeshadow, and when I don’t I find that its ability to match my skin tone makes it a no-brainer for when I want to highlight without putting on a full face of makeup.

1. {ultra-violet}amethyst

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Honestly, this shade is the reason I bought the palette, so we’re treading in very biased territory right now. While opal is versatile in how natural it is, amethyst is versatile in how unnatural it is. On its own, I love to use it to highlight my cheekbones as it defines them really well (contrasting with the warmer tones of my skin) and also fosters the very on-trend otherworldly mermaid/alien look. I also love it over the black eyeliner, and can totally see myself using it to create the impression of a sparkly cobalt winged look. I find that even though amethyst is blue, its cooler tones bring it away from seeming kitschy or outdated. I’ve also seen it used beautifully on very dark skin tones which shows it’s not only versatile on me, but on a whole range of people. Taking all this into consideration, amethyst is undoubtedly my #1 shade out of the palette.

While this is the definitive ranking for me, the shades you like will probably vary according to personal taste and how the colours match or contrast with your skin tone. At the end of the day, makeup is what you make of it. We would never have all the styles and techniques we do today if we only listened to what other people say is the best. So take this ranking with a grain of salt and use the Alchemist palette the way that makes you most happy. Because at the end of the day, your makeup is not about others, but yourself.

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You can find the Alchemist palette at Sephora, or directly off Kat Von D's Website.