The New Fashion Presentation

Fashion with a capital F has long been deemed unattainable, foreign, and isolating. And let’s admit, it is all of those things for any spectator peaking through shop windows or flicking passively through a waiting room’s copy of Vogue.

However, fashion is ever-changing. With the rise of Instagram, the industry has found itself in a tricky spot—at once under the gaze of more eyes than ever before (closer to her audience?) while becoming increasingly idealized in the minds of its viewers (who are constantly reminded by how different that world must be).

These past few months, we’ve seen some shows push against what is perhaps the most consistent part of every fashion week—the shows. While shows have been known to include music presentations, dancers, and more, the catwalk has always remained more or less the same. The models walk. Or stand. And the show, as it should be, is centered around the designer’s work.

Here are a few recent fashion presentations that made us re-think the typical runway. These presentations have changed their collections from something out of reach to experiences that, at the very least, compel the viewer without pushing them away.

Tomo Koizumi

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Koizumi displayed 7 out-of-this-world looks on one (1!) trans model Ariel Nicholson, who performed different scenes right in front of the typical front-row attendees and more. Koizumi told Vogue that his goal was to bring joy. His effort was well-done with an indulgence in theatrics, camp, and the celebration of one unique star.

Susan Alexandra

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On the theme of bringing joy, Susan Korn used her presentation to celebrate what would have been her !3-year-old self’s dream bat mitzvah. While the clothes are youthful and lively as is (shirts! made of multi-colored beads!), they were presented in a truly youthful setting. Korn’s party/show featured friends and drag queens as models and a rabbi to look over the celebration.

Tommy Hilfiger x Zendaya

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Bringing this energy from #tommyxzendaya into Monday morning 💯 @tommyhilfiger @zendaya @luxurylaw 🎥: ELLE Digital Director @katielcon

8,404 Likes, 30 Comments - ELLE Magazine (@elleusa) on Instagram: "Bringing this energy from #tommyxzendaya into Monday morning 💯 @tommyhilfiger @zendaya @luxurylaw..."

Held at the Appolo Theater, this collection debut was yet another display of merrymaking between Tommy and Zendaya. The set dug into a real-life old-New York jazz fest theme. Models danced down the runway next to a live pianist and a gorgeous 50s style car. Not only did the collection feature prints and colors never-before-seen from Tommy Hilfiger, but it pushed its brand’s limits even farther by displaying the pieces how they were meant to be worn—with glamorous hair and makeup unafraid of a little sweat from the dance floor.

Ralph Lauren

Similarly, another classic Americana label dove into a jovial image of the United States in the jazz age. Models first smiled and twirled amongst circular tables resembling a real jazz club. Guests wore black and white attired (Eva Chen wore a black and white Marvel sweatshirt she last-minute picked up from Target), and were able to engage in light conversation whilst watching the show. Soon, Janelle Monáe took the stage, treating the audience to a few classic tunes. But the party really started when the models came out to dance, Ms. Monáe kicked off her heels, and started scatting on tables. The video of the presentation shows a real success—with happy guests and a set designed to take you back in time.

Whether or not these new presentations will become the norm is left uncertain, but one thing is sure: fashion can include all. Fashion can be a means to celebrate life, different times. When serious, the way we present it can still lend itself more to an experience than to a display. When we look at fashion through a different lens, it doesn’t seem so untouchable after all.

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Meet Tomo Koizumi, the Breakout Star of NYFW

By now, you’ve probably seen photos of vibrant loofah-like dresses all over Instagram and wondered who is behind them. They are the work of Tomo Koizumi, a Japanese designer that British fashion journalist and stylist Katie Grand discovered on Instagram. Grand brought Koizumi from Japan to New York just three weeks after finding his work, launching him into stardom in a way most could only dream of.

Hosted at the Marc Jacobs store on Madison Avenue, Koizumi’s debut was certainly one of the most talked-about moments from this past season’s New York Fashion Week. There were only 28 looks, some from his archives and some new, but each one of them made a statement. Pat McGrath was in charge of doing the makeup while Guido Palau did hair, and with a lineup of models including Bella Hadid, Emily Ratajkowski, Joan Smalls, and Rowan Blanchard; it was an event full of top industry leaders. Undoubtedly, the most stunning part was when Game of Thrones actress Gwendoline Christie closed the show in a colorful tulle explosion of a jumpsuit that was made from 200 meters of fabric.

However, it takes more than a roster of big names and a great venue to make a memorable fashion show. Perhaps the most interesting part about Koizumi is that he has no formal training in fashion design; he’s a self-taught costume designer. Despite his lack of training, his ability to design such refreshingly whimsical pieces has helped him become one of the most talked-about people of NYFW. Though he just debuted in February, his designs have already been seen on major celebrities, including Miley Cyrus and Sophie Turner.

NYFW has been somewhat lackluster during the past few seasons, as many NYFW heavyweights are choosing to hold their shows elsewhere, leaving a roster of lesser-known designers. This past NYFW seemed to generate even less excitement than usual, as Raf Simons’ exit from Calvin Klein meant no Calvin Klein show, Alexander Wang is no longer on the regular schedule, and Rodarte decided to hold their show in Los Angeles instead. Koizumi brought light to a bleak New York, solidifying himself as a designer to watch in the upcoming seasons.

Feature image via. Runway images via.

Praise for Pierpaolo Piccioli

In late January, Pierpaolo Piccioli unveiled his Valentino Haute Couture Spring 2019 collection at the Hôtel Salomon de Rothschild in Paris and it was absolutely breathtaking. With supermodel Naomi Campbell making an appearance on the runway and Celine Dion being brought to tears by the collection, it is no understatement to attribute the success of Valentino’s collection to the genius of Piccioli.

Cecil Beaton’s image of ladies wearing James Charles gowns via.

Cecil Beaton’s image of ladies wearing James Charles gowns via.

The impetus behind the haute couture collection was high society. A picture of Cecil Beaton’s iconic image of elegant ladies donning James Charles gowns was pinned to Piccioli’s mood board as a source of inspiration. However, the 1948 image, while serving as inspiration, doubled as an image of high society that Piccioli wanted to change. Rather than featuring all white women, Piccioli wanted to showcase an image of high society that embraced the inclusion of women from diverse backgrounds.

Piccioli stayed true to the vision he wanted to promote: in a collection featuring 65 looks, more than half of the models were black women. One of these women included model Adut Akech, who opened the show and wrote in an Instagram post, “I can honestly say tonight was the first time I have ever been surrounded by so many beautiful black models and the feeling I felt tonight I can never explain in words.”

With the fashion industry in general shifting towards broader diversity in casting and greater inclusivity of body types, it is notable that Milan is one fashion capital that has lagged in these efforts. Valentino, through this collection and under Piccioli’s creative direction, is paving the way for other Italian brands to follow.

Feature image and images featuring the collection all via.

Christy Turlington Returns to the Runway After 20+ Years

The last couple of years have seen the supermodel titans of the 90s returning to the runway with a vengeance, the latest being Christy Turlington.

Among the model elite, Christy has always been my favorite. Cindy was the sporty all-American beauty, Naomi was sultry with a notorious attitude, Linda was the brash chameleon, but Christy always seemed sidelined as the underrated one among the bunch. People love a big, bold archetype and with her practically-perfect-in-every-way features, natural elegance and kind demeanor, it’s hard to put her in a box. But that hasn’t stopped her from shining, as she was one of the top earners in her prime, bringing in a reported $1.7 million in 1992.

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More low-key and self-aware than her peers, she was highly successful but always downplaying her status, and constantly denying Linda Evangelista’s infamous quote about the two women “never getting out of bed for less than $10,000 a day.” Lacking the ego of her colleagues, she perfectly balanced the line between the sweet, girl-next-door and one of the sexiest women alive. She paused her career in its prime to get a degree in comparative religion and Eastern philosophy, start a charity to support maternal health, and get a masters in public health.

Christy triumphantly reclaimed the catwalk in the Marc Jacobs Fall 2019 Show on the last day of New York Fashion Week in a Black Swan dress; an average look immensely elevated by her wearing it. Despite the 50-year-old model closing the show, she reaffirmed that this was simply one more walk for old times sake, posting about the opportunity on Instagram:

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About tonight! OMG @themarcjacobs invited me to close his beautiful show tonight and I couldn’t resist. A. I have known and loved this man since I met him at age 16. B. I turned 50 this year and have arrived at a place where “Why the F not” is the answer that comes up when I ask myself questions. C. I have a 15 year old daughter who I desperately want to see and hear me and this is a medium that “speaks”to her. So, thank you’s are in order, @karliekloss @gigihadid and @kaiagerber and all the lovely young women I have met briefly in the recent past or met tonight. You are ALL women I would want my daughter to emulate in your grace, confidence and elegance. Always reassuring to have @guidopalau @diane.kendal @stephenjonesmillinery and @kegrand encouraging you on and making you look and feel your best. And while that muscle did not hurt as much as I would have thought to exercise again, after 20 plus years, I am not certain I could beat the experience of tonight or wish to try! Now I can say exactly when and for whom I last walked a runway and feel so proud and grateful to all the forces of nature who made it possible! 😘@1.800.newbold & Congratulations for all of the amazing people who put shows like this together. I am in awe of the efforts I was able to witness firsthand and truly appreciate from a new perspective over the last couple of days all the effort that goes in. Bravo!

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Fresh Womenswear Looks to Wear to Atelier MODA

It’s that time of year again; the annual MODA fashion show is right around the corner! It’s one of the rare opportunities for a college student to go all out and wear something eccentric, bold, or over-the-top. But this freedom comes with pressure to pull through with a perfect look. If you’re unsure where to find inspiration, I have you covered: keep reading to find the best look for your night out on the town.

Baby, it’s (still) cold outside, so layer up!

Ever since Demna Gvasalia sent a 7-layer coat down the Balenciaga runway for his FW18 collection, I have been inspired to pile on the layers. The brutal Chicago winter makes this trend even more appealing, and the best part is that your wardrobe probably already has all you need to pull this look off. Adding a turtleneck under a sweatshirt or slip dress or wearing a blazer under a coat are great ways to achieve the look. If you want to try this trend but are afraid of it feeling too bulky, try layering lots of jewelry instead. Maximalism is all the rage now, making this style a perfect one to replicate.

Screw gender norms, opt for an androgynous fit

The past few seasons have seen countless gender-fluid looks go down the runway, especially as more and more labels, including Gucci, JW Anderson, and Kenzo, choose to merge their menswear and womenswear collections into one show.

Many streetwear brands also use both men and women to model the same pieces in their collections. A big part of fashion is exploring gender fluidity and the ideas of what menswear and womenswear are, so don’t be afraid to push boundaries by trying out a look that is more traditionally masculine than feminine. An easy way to do this is to wear an 80s-inspired power suit, characterized by their exaggerated silhouettes, loose fit, and boxy shoulders.

If you’re looking for something a little more comfortable and casual, try a more streetwear-inspired look. Oversized sweatshirts, tees, and sneakers all fit the style, and since streetwear is so widespread nowadays, it won’t be difficult to find the perfect fit. Adding unique accessories (think: bright hair clips and tiny sunglasses, which are all the rage now) can also elevate an outfit and create a more personal feel.

When in doubt, go for head-to-toe monochrome

Dressing all in one color can be far from boring; in fact, it usually makes for a strong fit. It’s common to see people wearing all black, but choosing a brighter color can create a bold statement too. Try putting together different shades of one color or adding prints to break up the look and keep it interesting. This has been a huge trend for the past couple seasons and shows no signs of stopping, so you’ll definitely have your finger on the fashion pulse with a monochrome fit.

Mixing textures is another great way to create a unique take on a monochrome outfit, as the different finishes add dimension to the outfit. My personal favorite textures to play with are velvet, silk, and faux fur, but sherpa, corduroy, and PVC are also great options (and good for the cold!).

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Viktor and Rolf's Tongue-In-Chic 2019 Couture Show

Couture Week has been predictably fabulous, but Viktor and Rolf have taken the “fashion as art” platform to a viral level this year. Their Spring 2019 Couture collection consists of large, period piece-esque layered tulle gowns with the notable addition of colorful phrases straight out of social media captions.

Co-creator Rolf Snoren said on the collection’s statements, “It’s the kind of message you find on social media, with the same instant feeling… All these statements that are so obvious or easy—there’s a lot of banality on Instagram and social media in general—are counterbalanced with this over-the-top, shimmery, romantic feeling.”

The fashion world has spent the majority of the 2010’s reckoning with the new world order of social media culture, putting collections up on Instagram and jumping on the social media influencer wave to promote luxury to the average consumer. Viktor and Rolf savvily sought to invert the Internet meme cycle, connecting with the social media generation by meme-ifying their own garments for the runway and subsequently turning the show into a very successful bit of advertising for the brand.

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No matter how ahead of the Internet a brand gets, memeification by the masses is an unavoidable part of the social media life cycle. And why would fashion houses want to avoid it? Viktor and Rolf’s collection has gone viral and overshadowed many of the more traditional collections debuting at Paris Couture Week.

At the end of the day, couture is a market for only a handful of one percent-er’s in the world, and the more that brands realize the largely exclusive function of couture shows can double as marketing opportunities, the better off they’ll be with the new Insta-generation of consumers.

the horoscopes . . . but make it memeable fashion (by @noahsilverstein)

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Check out the whole collection here:

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The Versace Pre-Fall Show Is a Strut down Memory Lane

Versace held its first ever pre-fall show in New York last Sunday–the birthday of its late founder, Gianni Versace. Coming off of this year’s Emmy winning series about his death, plus the House’s acquisition by Michael Kors, the show was as much a tribute to the brand’s legacy as it was a statement on its future identity. It was held in the New York Stock Exchange headquarters, to underscore the house’s centrality and vitality in the fashion community. Also included was a to-scale Statue of Liberty flame gilded in Versace gold.

At such a tumultuous point in history, both in the world and within the fashion community, the House of Versace has been consistently looking towards the past. The 2018 spring show featured a reunion of epic proportions as the brand’s iconic 90’s supermodels reclaimed their runway.

Carla Bruni, Claudia Schiffer, Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford and Helena Christensen. Image via

Carla Bruni, Claudia Schiffer, Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford and Helena Christensen. Image via

Versace’s nostalgia for legendary moments carried through in the show, as a replica of That J-Lo Dress was featured in the closing. (Fun fact: Jennifer Lopez’s 2001 deeply plunging Grammy dress was so notorious and frequently searched on the Internet that it inspired the creation of Google Images). The cherry on top? In this year’s show it was modeled by Amber Valletta, who had debuted the original palm leaf patterned dress on the 2000 Versace catwalk.

The safety pin dress–one of Versace’s most storied creations–also saw a revamp for the show. The concept debuted in the ‘94 Spring Ready-to-Wear show (worn on the very same legendary models mentioned above) and was immortalized by Elizabeth Hurley at the 1994 Four Weddings And A Funeral premiere. Held together primarily by oversized safety pins with a plunging neckline it was–and remains–one of the most daring and creative LBDs ever. This year’s pre-fall show included homages to the concept, reinterpreting the ‘94 concept on various looks featuring the same gold pins scattered among black dresses, skirts, shirts and jackets.

Elizabeth Hurley (1994). Image via

Elizabeth Hurley (1994). Image via

The safety pin dress reimagined. Image via

The safety pin dress reimagined. Image via

Animal prints were also heavily featured and Gianni’s classic gold and black baroque/animal print fusion made a particular splash, in a few looks meshed with American flag-esque stars in reference to the “concrete jungle” of New York. Nods to Versace’s first-time host city didn’t stop there, as plenty of New York inspired looks were featured in the show. From uptown socialites to downtown artist types to tourists, the NYC melting pot carried a significant portion of the show’s theme, even featuring a Versace’d “I Heart NY” tee.

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In their own words, the fashion house remains rooted in their history, bright colors, wild prints and Gianni and they’re fully committed to using this history to fuel their future as artistic pioneers.

VERSACE MEN AND WOMEN SWIFTLY MOVE BETWEEN THEIR MYTHOLOGICAL WORLD AND THEIR COSMOPOLITAN, MODERN CITY LIFE.
THEIR CONFIDENCE? ABSOLUTE.
THEIR SECRET? A VERSACE STATE OF MIND.

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Film References and the Fantastic Featured at Gucci

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I didn't think it was possible for Alessandro Michele to push more boundaries within the realm of fashion, satire and fantasy, but then he went ahead and used prosthetic creatures, severed heads and oddly placed eyeballs as accessories in his latest Fall RTW collection. 

As creepy and ridiculous as it sounds, these finishing touches worked very well within the broader scope of the world Michele has crafted for Gucci. Third eyes, the odd lizard here and there, and horns that sprouted from the heads of models emerged seamlessly alongside the frilly frocks, oversize coats, platform boots and patterned pantsuits we have come to associate with the brand.

While they may seem out of place in a fashion show, these special effects actually play quite well into Gucci's reference book of imagery and inspiration. From the life-like recreation of Gucci motifs like the red, black and white striped Kingsnake or the "Ace eye," to the inclusion of severed heads that embody (no pun intended) Michele's obsession with the supernatural and themes of dualism, the use of these eccentric props further sharpened the aesthetic scope of the Gucci universe.

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Perhaps Gucci's unprecedented appeal across all manners of fashion lovers and consumers–from the casual Vogue reader, to the street style fanatic, and the high fashion magazine editor–is the brand's incredible adeptness at not taking itself too seriously. Apart from Michele's boundless imagination, Gucci has greatly benefitted from its ability to inject irony and tongue-in-cheek humor into the realm of runway fashion and haute couture, making the fashion world more accessible to all in the process.

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Trend Forecasting at NYFW F/W 2018

While millennial pink and power-suits reimagined for the modern day working woman continue to dominate catwalks and all the latest collections, a handful of emerging trends are really starting to take hold as NYFW draws to a close. As we look to Paris, London and Milan Fashion Weeks to either affirm the creative messages of their American counterparts or introduce an entirely new palette of colors, patterns and silhouettes to consider for the fall/winter season, take a moment to soak in the surprisingly cohesive aesthetic vision of this season's NYFW. 

Whether it emerged in the form of a silken blouse or a head-to-toe wool business suit, mustard yellow dominated this season's color palette and vision for the fall/winter 2018 season. Many designers chose to downplay the color's shock value, often presenting the hue in the form of sophisticated silhouettes fit for the office place, cocktail hour or even a more formal event.

Bottega Veneta; image via

Bottega Veneta; image via

Derek Lam; image via

Derek Lam; image via

Prabal Gurung; image via

Prabal Gurung; image via

Matching sets appeared everywhere this season, from brands as disparate in vibe and vision as Sies Marjan (laid-back, ethereal, color packed) to Victoria Beckham (sophisticated, mature, impeccably tailored). From DVF's 70s, pajama inspired looks, to knit sets perfect for the office and even a handful of skirt based looks fit for a night out, designers seemed intent on sending out complete, cohesive looks. 

Sies Marjan; image via

Sies Marjan; image via

Diane von Furstenberg; image via

Diane von Furstenberg; image via

Victoria Beckham; image via

Victoria Beckham; image via

Our obsession with the 90s continues with the endless array of slip dresses spotted on the runway this season. From more experimental takes on the classic silhouette that grappled with deconstructed fabrics and pattern-mixing, to sleek and timeless takes, as seen at Brandon Maxwell and Jason Wu, it appears as if slip dresses have fully integrated themselves into our wardrobes for everyday wear.

Jason Wu; image via

Jason Wu; image via

Brandon Maxwell; image via

Brandon Maxwell; image via

Prabal Gurung; image via

Prabal Gurung; image via

A quick cheat that makes you automatically look more fashionable? Dress all in one color. Monochrome ensembles were spotted in almost every collection this season, regardless of the designer's color of choice or inspiration source–a testament to the sheer versatility (and ease) of this approach to dress.

Sies Marjan; image via

Sies Marjan; image via

Tibi; image via

Tibi; image via

Jason Wu; image via

Jason Wu; image via

Everyone was seeing red this season, perhaps in response to the overwhelming amount of playful pastel pinks we've been forced to look at in recent months. When you think of it, it comes as little surprise that designers would look within the same color range for something new, yet not entirely unfamiliar to base their latest collections around. Bright, boisterous reds played out as more mature, sensual and confident statements on the runway alongside their millennial pink counterparts.

Prabal Gurung; image via

Prabal Gurung; image via

Brandon Maxwell; image via

Brandon Maxwell; image via

Tibi; image via

Tibi; image via

Colder weather doesn't necessarily call for covering up according to some designers. From the classical elegance of Cushnie et Ochs to Alexander Wang's bossy bad asses, mini skirts seem no longer the sole domain of Hedi Slimane. Whether you pair it with sheer tights or sky-high pumps, expect to see shorter hemlines come fall.

Cushnie et Ochs; image via

Cushnie et Ochs; image via

Dion Lee; image via

Dion Lee; image via

Alexander Wang; image via

Alexander Wang; image via

Ever since Brock Collection won the CFDA Fashion Fund two years ago and received Anna Wintour's stamp of approval, the brand has been successfully spreading its vision of bucolic beauty–and it seems like many brands are taking note. Everyone from the experimental Gypsy Sport to mainstays like Ralph Lauren took cues from Brock Collection's affinity for all things off-the-shoulder, ruffled, ruched, breezy and maidenly.

Gypsy Sport; image via

Gypsy Sport; image via

Ralph Lauren; image via

Ralph Lauren; image via

Jonathan Simkhai; image via

Jonathan Simkhai; image via

Feature Image via Vogue Runway

Have We Entered an Age of Maximalism?

With Phoebe Philo's departure from Céline after a nearly decade-long tenure at the helm of the coveted French label, the fashion world seems to be shifting more than ever to an aesthetic and overall branding rooted in maximalism. From intricate embroidery, oversized baubles and loud prints, to campaigns dripping in psychedelic sound and color edits, the industry has reinterpreted styles reminiscent of the 70s and 80s for an even clashier, irony-loving contemporary audience.

Celine Fall/Winter 2013 campaign; image via

Celine Fall/Winter 2013 campaign; image via

This gradual shift in the realms of fashion design, photography and advertising no doubt stems from the meteoric rise of brands like Gucci, which in recent years has gone from a washed up Italian brand to the millennial generation's go-to reference for all things desirable, stylish and fun. A scroll through Vogue Runway's Pre-Fall 2018 collection recaps points to Gucci's explosive influence. Tibi has adopted the patterned power suit look, Pucci is playing with an excess of prints, and Preen favors head-to-toe snakeskin while Versace embraces neon color palettes and now layers branded hoodies under decidedly preppy blazers.

A shot from Gucci's Fall 2017 beauty campaign; image via

A shot from Gucci's Fall 2017 beauty campaign; image via

Even the world of makeup seems to have shifted in favor of the colorful and playful. While brands like Glossier still tout the "no makeup makeup look," companies like Kylie Cosmetics, KKW Beauty, Milk Makeup and Fenty Beauty are dominating the beauty scene and clearly influencing makeup trends in the process. From Fenty's shimmery highlighters that span the color spectrum, to Milk's whimsical new take on everyday makeup, and Kylie and KKW's provisions for a full face of lip kits, strobing and contouring, the emphasis on barely there makeup often seems lost in a sea of endless product launches that favor more experimental looks.

An ad for Milk Makeup; image via

An ad for Milk Makeup; image via

On the red carpet too, celebrities are peacocking in quasi-bohemian or fantastical looks that fully embrace a gaudier, less serious take on fashion. From fur, feathers, sequins and an excess of tulle, to recurring animal motifs and prints, the statements these looks make at award ceremonies often seem right at home. 

Within the context of daily life, however, it remains to be seen how seamlessly this outlandish aesthetic will be incorporated into the everyday. How soon will it be until the famously short attention spans of modern day consumers tire of the maximalist look and shed their Gucci fur loafers and brocade coats in favor of a simpler, less trend-driven aesthetic?

Collection Highlights: Issey Miyake

For about 40 years now, Issey Miyake has been a stalwart name in the world of fashion. And, although Miyake himself now oversees designers that make his lines (as of ~1997), this has only increased his eponymous label's stronghold–the studio-style model allows it's collections to be consistently on par or downright amazing. My enthusiasm for the 'downright amazing' part comes particularly from the past two men's spring collections, designed by Yusuke Takahashi:

Left: Issey Miyake Men's Spring 2017 (Yusuke Takahashi), image courtesy Vogue
Right: Issey Miyake Men's Spring 2017 (Yusuke Takahashi), image courtesy Vogue

Woof. This may seem like hyperbole, but it honestly isn't, I think those are top two outfits I've seen this year (give or take like, I don't know, three months–anyways it's a long time). They vex me, they're somehow simultaneously structured and fluid, I love them. I love the washed-out color palette, the pleating, yes. They look like if angels got into streetwear. In the second look, I'm reminded of a coat by the women's designer, Yoshiyuki Miyame:

Issey Miyake Women's Pre-Fall 2017 (Yoshiyuki Miyame), image courtesy of Vogue (it's honestly worth it to just look through Vogue's photoshoots of Issey, they have great documentation)

In fact, this was actually the coat that first brought my attention to the label. It was after seeing both this and the 2017/2018 Men's Spring outfits that I realized that I had to bump them to people. Also, a sidenote worth sharing: Miyake designed Steve Job's signature turtleneck (L.A. Times).

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Keeping up with Kaia

The breakout model of the season was none other than Kaia Gerber, Cindy Crawford's sixteen-year-old daughter (and occasional doppelgänger). From fronting the latest cover of Teen Vogue, to walking in some of the most exciting shows of NYFW, Kaia has proven she has star power and professionalism in spades–with a killer runway walk and supermodel genes for added bonus.

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Calvin Klein

Kaia started off her week walking for Calvin Klein, the first show of NYFW (and no small feat for her breakthrough season). The fashion label has been known to launch the careers of a slew of familiar faces in the modeling world, such as Kate Moss and Karlie Kloss–perhaps Kaia will star as the label's next muse. 

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Alexander Wang

Kaia followed her Fashion Week debut by opening Alexander Wang's much buzzed about show, which had a party bus transport models to three different locations across New York, utilizing the city's streets as their runway. Later on, she joined the likes of Bella Hadid and Kendall Jenner to party at Wang's infamous #WangOver NYFW afterparty.

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Fenty x Puma

One of the coolest NYFW moments was undoubtedly Rihanna's runway turned motorbike trick showcase. As professional bikers flipped overhead across pink sand dunes, Kaia joined the sporty ranks of RiRi's models, stomping down the runway in a biker inspired two-piece. 

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Coach

Fresh off the heels of a series of buzzy fashion parties, magazine promotions and the launch of her mother's latest collaboration for RE/DONE, Kaia took her turn on Coach's silver glitter coated runway. 

Marc Jacobs

Kaia shut down NYFW by closing Marc Jacobs mammoth of a show. Kaia is currently the face of the line's Daisy fragrance and Marc Jacobs Beauty, so it's only fitting that she was chosen for the collection's final, standout look.

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Men’s Fashion is Dead

With mourning veils and stitched lips, elements of death and the afterlife crept their way into this season’s trendiest menswear shows at Paris Fashion Week. Of the usual eccentric shows, Thom Browne’s runway took us to a bleak-chic funeral procession.

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The men were fit in all black attire with white accents. Models wore hats with yards of lace and solemn looks on their faces. Last year, Browne featured blazers with sharp and boxy shoulders, but this year he displayed more wearable looks.

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Image via

In keeping with this deadly theme, Comme des Garçons also touched on the concept by opening their show with an ode to the grim reaper by fitting a model in an oversized hood. Models with obstructed faces seemed to be a common theme in Paris. Ricardo Tisci of Givenchy took his spin on the trend as well by painting his models to look like zombies and ghouls. Tisci stated that his inspiration for the collection was his nightmares. The long black top coats, scorched prints, religious symbolism, and deep blacks, browns, and reds created a refined punk wardrobe. The dark genius that is Tisci has left us all beyond excited for next month’s show.

So, after a funeral, a meeting with the reaper, and a trip to the underworld, keep wearing your black and elevate your punk. Dante has nothing on Givenchy.

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