Praise for Pierpaolo Piccioli

In late January, Pierpaolo Piccioli unveiled his Valentino Haute Couture Spring 2019 collection at the Hôtel Salomon de Rothschild in Paris and it was absolutely breathtaking. With supermodel Naomi Campbell making an appearance on the runway and Celine Dion being brought to tears by the collection, it is no understatement to attribute the success of Valentino’s collection to the genius of Piccioli.

Cecil Beaton’s image of ladies wearing James Charles gowns via.

Cecil Beaton’s image of ladies wearing James Charles gowns via.

The impetus behind the haute couture collection was high society. A picture of Cecil Beaton’s iconic image of elegant ladies donning James Charles gowns was pinned to Piccioli’s mood board as a source of inspiration. However, the 1948 image, while serving as inspiration, doubled as an image of high society that Piccioli wanted to change. Rather than featuring all white women, Piccioli wanted to showcase an image of high society that embraced the inclusion of women from diverse backgrounds.

Piccioli stayed true to the vision he wanted to promote: in a collection featuring 65 looks, more than half of the models were black women. One of these women included model Adut Akech, who opened the show and wrote in an Instagram post, “I can honestly say tonight was the first time I have ever been surrounded by so many beautiful black models and the feeling I felt tonight I can never explain in words.”

With the fashion industry in general shifting towards broader diversity in casting and greater inclusivity of body types, it is notable that Milan is one fashion capital that has lagged in these efforts. Valentino, through this collection and under Piccioli’s creative direction, is paving the way for other Italian brands to follow.


Feature image and images featuring the collection all via.

Paradigm Shift: Fashion Houses Shuffle Creative Directors Amidst Controversy

The fashion industry has experienced a handful of shifts in its upper, creative echelons in the past few weeks. Raf Simons, renowned for modernizing Christian Dior, was appointed chief creative officer at Calvin Klein earlier this week while Maria Grazia Chiuri, once one-half of the Valentino creative team, has left the label for the Simons' old position at Dior. 

Raf Simons; image via

Raf Simons; image via

Simons' appointment follows right at the heels of criticism from CK's founder and former creative director, Calvin Klein, who questioned some of the company's decisions to cast celebrities and social media stars in its commercially successful #mycalvins campaigns. The brand has also faced criticism for several of its more provocative advertisements. The styling of one photo in particular "recalled exploitative pornagraphic upskirt photos that are taken without the permission of the subject" (Refinery29)

Kendall Jenner for Calvin Klein; image via

Kendall Jenner for Calvin Klein; image via

Simons' new leadership at the eponymous fashion brand comes "at a time when the New York fashion scene lacks direction... Mr. Simons’s appointment at the top level of one of America’s most resonant brands is a potential game-changer for the industry" (NY Times). His new role as creative chief will include oversight over all creative aspects of the brand, including runway, ready-to-wear, lingerie and more. 

Maria Grazia Chiuri; image via

Maria Grazia Chiuri; image via

Assuming Simons' former creative role at Christian Dior is Maria Grazia Chiuri, formerly one half of the creative force behind Valentino (her appointment leaves Pierpaolo Piccioli the now sole creative director at the Italian brand). Chiuri, who will be the first female artistic director at Dior in the brand's entire history, will head women's couture, ready-to-wear and accessory collections. 

Dior's latest campaign; image via

Dior's latest campaign; image via

If her eight year creative legacy at Valentino is any indication of Chiuri's future success at the helm of Dior, fans of the brand should expect a modern new take on the fabled French fashion house. Valentino's recent growth in profits can largely be credited to Chiuri's leadership as well. Her business acumen, creative vision and experience in the industry will undoubtedly benefit the Dior brand.  

Featured image via