My Summer Working at Buffalo Exchange

I suspect Buffalo Exchange is like any retail job: draining, underpaid, and mismanaged. Though I did enjoy my time there overall, learning the ins and outs of running a secondhand store, I can acknowledge that as a former employee, my coworkers and I were deserving of more than the company was willing to give. It was us, the workers, who held the place together. We would frequently provide free advertising with our well-curated outfits and a fruitful experience for the customers. The joy of the place did not come from the work itself or from the clothes but from the people. Queer and POC transplants whose first stop in the city was a nearby Buffalo Exchange. Though I hate being wax poetic about my own home and going on about how gentrifiers warp it into something it is not, these were people who had big dreams and personalities so indicative of New York that they made me want to see my city with fresh, innocent eyes, and love it all over again.

On the topic of the store itself while I’m glad I worked there for the summer because of the good company and the items I was able to procure, you would much sooner find used, dirty Shein than anything noteworthy. But perhaps that's what makes the hunt thrilling and a great find that much more rewarding. Buffalo Exchange is not a true thrift shop. When I would find an item that was cute but not the most original, my coworkers would say “that’s thriftable” to indicate that it would be more worth it to find at Goodwill bins for $2 instead of $20. It would be fairer to see it as a resale shop. They price items not for what they are worth but for what people are willing to pay. The location I worked at was situated in a gentrified New York neighborhood so people were willing to pay quite a bit, making the most basic items worth a pretty penny. As we would have to say over the phone: “Buffalo Exchange takes the best of all seasons, current trends, and styles.” Therefore, you are likely to find the store over-saturated with micro trends and new merch they get from independent sellers. Surprisingly though, those sell the most.

I would recommend shopping there if you need something quick and on-trend. For instance, Buffalo Exchange is perfect for anything Zara, Jaded London, Supreme, H&M, and other fast fashion brands that you are willing to pay marginally less than you would by buying retail. With no guarantee, however, that you are paying less than retail for an item. Even though it may be difficult to find a masterpiece or not drop $70 for three items, it's not impossible. My first tip would be to spend as little money as possible. I often say I became an extreme couponer during my time there, and though I did have an employee discount, it was slim and hardly useful. So, to keep the cost of procuring a new wardrobe down, I sold a lot of old clothes, shoes, and accessories to get a trade that I could use for new clothes. Not every Buffalo Exchange is going to like your stuff. Some of their buying practices still perplex me, which is why it’s useful to bring in a lot of items and go to multiple stores (sometimes they see if you sold at a different location that day, so it might be helpful to spread selling over a few days). Shopping-wise, the store is a hit or miss. Some days you’ll find the most breathtaking vintage handmade blazer, and the next you’ll find five shirts that say “Tacocat” in comic sans font with a Pusheen graphic, priced at $32 a piece. But, if you want to find something good, you’re going to have to dig but also look at the mannequins. Employees will put some of the store's best items, those they don’t want to buy at least, up there. You might even find some of the items they do want, I hid a dress up on the mannequins for a month until my employee discount kicked in. Overall, my entire summer there, I spent about $50-100 of my own money on a closet's worth of clothes, rebuilding my wardrobe for little to nothing.

Here are a few of the things I got and how much I paid:

ITEM #1: Frank Ocean T-Shirt

This Frank Ocean t-shirt is so incredibly cool! Every single hype beast who came into the store wanted it. It says “Blond Boys Don’t Cry” on the back and looks like it’s made from a knitted material but it’s polyester. It was priced at $36 but I got it for $0.

ITEM #2: Fake Coogi

            The fake coogi sweater, cowboy boots, and brown sunglasses are all Buffalo Exchange purchases. The sweater was priced at $45 and I got it for $8, the boots were priced at $55 and I got them for $0, and the glasses were priced at $10 and I got them for $4.

ITEM #3: Grandmas Dress

            The woman that sold this in said her grandmother made it by hand. I don’t know why she sold it, but it is absolutely gorgeous and was priced at $26 but I got it for $0.

ITEM #4: 24ans Skirt

            This is one of my favorite skirts. The shape, fabric, and color make it visually engaging and fun to style. It was priced at $26 and I got it for $0.

ITEM #5: Face Jacket

            Once I saw this jacket I knew I had to have it. It’s an absolute showstopper and one of the best items I got during my summer. It was priced at $90 and I got it for $0.

ITEM #6: Vintage Versace Blazer

            The gods blessed me the day I found this real vintage Versace blazer. I did have to work two fill in shifts to get enough extra trade to get it but it was worth it. It was priced at $90 but I got it for $20.

ITEM #7: Tie Dye Dress

            Before I bought this Newport New dress, I found it on Depop for $150. But it’s Depop so their prices are just as untrustworthy as Buffalo Exchanges. This dress was priced at $16 and I got it for $0.

Everything You Need To Know About Depop

The popularity of secondhand shopping has grown tremendously in recent years. Shoppers are drawn toward secondhand clothes for a variety of reasons, ranging from an interest in vintage or more unique clothes, to cheaper prices, to environmental concerns. Depop has made a name for itself as a popular—albeit notorious—way to shop secondhand.

Depop is an app for people to buy and sell clothes. It’s similar in function to services like Poshmark and ThredUp, with the primary difference being that Depop holds more of a focus on vintage clothing. Depop users have also expressed a preference for the app’s interface and usability. Due to the growing popularity of the app, established clothing brands such as Anna Sui and Rodarte have taken to selling clothes from their archives on Depop. It’s clear that the app has become a well-loved and efficient platform for people to sell their old clothes for an easy profit or to buy unique vintage items.

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But the controversy surrounding Depop has been growing. In particular, users have complained about the overpricing of items. Many sellers have come under fire for paying low prices for clothing at thrift shops and reselling those clothes for a much higher price. For instance, both buyers and sellers have reported clothing originally bought for $2 or $3 a piece being resold for upwards of $50. Buyers often justify these prices by claiming that the process of selecting, purchasing, listing, and shipping these items is time-consuming and takes a great deal of effort. Clothes with visible damage and stains are also often marketed as being worth a lot of money using keywords such as “rare,” “deadstock,” or Y2K to justify their degraded nature.

Critics of this process of reselling are particularly outraged because they view this as the gentrification of secondhand clothing. Many of the clothes resold on Depop were bought at thrift stores that serve families who may not be able to afford to shop elsewhere. Especially concerning is that a good percentage of these clothes are children’s clothes marketed toward teenagers and adults as “baby tees” or “crop tops.” Furthermore, many thrift shops like Goodwill have been suspected of marking up their prices due to the high amounts of people reselling their clothes at much higher prices online. This TikTok by user @vampir3tearz is one of many posts on a variety of platforms, including Instagram and Twitter, that have taken to criticism of Depop.

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Despite the controversy surrounding Depop, it can still be a useful tool. Taking advantage of the app’s filters can be incredibly helpful. In particular, using the price filter to limit the search to clothes under $10-20 often filters out resellers who mark up their prices, leaving primarily people who are just trying to clear out their closets at a highly discounted price. Furthermore, Depop is a great marketplace for custom clothes. Many users sell a variety of custom painted, embroidered, or embellished pieces, such as sneakers, purses, jeans, and jewelry. Taking advantage of these custom clothes as well as the ability to search for specific quirky items of interest (such as a frog-shaped hat or a watermelon-shaped purse) can allow users to diversify their closets with some fun, unique pieces. When navigated carefully, Depop is a great resource for selling and buying secondhand clothing.


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Where to Thrift in Chicago

There’s no better way to find unique pieces at low prices than to go thrifting. It’s become one of my favorite activities recently, and each gem I find feels like a victory. Chicago certainly has a great thrifting scene that any vintage-clothing enthusiast should spend some time checking out. Keep scrolling for a roundup of my favorite thrift shops to hit up in the Windy City!


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Kokorokoko

Kokorokoko boasts a seemingly endless supply of pieces from the 80s and 90s, including tees with funky patterns, oversized denim jackets, and even Furbies. The 90s fashion trend doesn’t seem to be dying down any time soon, so definitely check out Kokorokoko for some pieces straight from the era of your choosing.

Located at 1323 N Milwaukee Ave in Wicker Park


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Ragstock

Ragstock has a mix of new and vintage clothes at affordable prices, making it one of my personal favorites. They have a wide selection of accessories, vintage leather jackets, 80s/90s windbreakers, and much more. There are racks for both men and women, so there’s something for everyone here. They have stores in all over the city, so swing by one of their locations next time you’re in the thrifting mood!

Multiple locations; Wicker Park (1459 Milwaukee Ave), Lakeview (812 W Belmont Ave), Water Tower (835 N Michigan Ave).


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Crossroads Trading

Crossroads has a buy/sell/trade model, making it perfect for anyone who wants to get rid of unwanted clothes and buy some new pieces all in one trip. For any clothing they take from you, you can receive either cash or store credit. Crossroads is known for carrying trendy, gently-worn clothing from top brands. In the past, I’ve found pieces from Nike, Topshop, Rag & Bone, Calvin Klein Jeans, Alexander Wang, and more.

Multiple locations: Wicker Park (1519 N Milwaukee Ave), Lincoln Park (1519 N Milwaukee Ave), Uptown (5127 N Clark St).


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Buffalo Exchange

Buffalo Exchange is also known for its buy/sell/trade model and for carrying lots of trendy, branded clothing. Although the store itself is rather small, there are a ton of racks to shop from, making it an essential place to stop by if you’re thrifting in Wicker Park. Speaking of, Wicker is somewhat of a thrifting haven, so be sure to swing by the neighborhood if you’re in the mood for hitting up a handful of vintage and thrift shops.

Located at 1478 N Milwaukee Ave in Wicker Park


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Goodwill

Goodwill will always be a classic, with its low prices, wide range of sizes, and huge selection of clothing. While it does take a little digging to find something great, it’s almost always a rewarding experience. The one in the West Loop is particularly large, and it has a large selection of books and home decorations as well.

Multiple locations, West Loop store at 1201 W Washington Blvd.


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Encore

Looking for a thrift shop close to campus? Try Encore, located on Hyde Park Boulevard, right by Whole Foods. Encore started off as a high school community service project, but since then, they have become a popular thrifting spot in the South Side. The store accepts donations as well, and any pieces that don’t make it to the sales floor are donated to provide clothing to the homeless.

Located at 1553 E Hyde Park Blvd in Hyde Park


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Village Discount

Last but certainly not least, Village Discount is a bonafide staple in the Chicago thrifting scene. If you’re willing to comb through seemingly endless racks of clothing, these outlets are an amazing place to find anything from designer coats to mom jeans to tupperware at rockbottom prices. Better yet? On most holidays, Village Discount will provide further discounts and deals, and in most cases, you can nab pretty much anything for well under $5.

Multiple locations.


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