Skincare ABCs
Like all of you, I have found myself with an almost overwhelming amount of free time this year. Also, like many of you, I have been trying to fill that void with passion projects and getting trapped in research rabbit-holes. Over the past several years I have been sitting on a wealth of knowledge about skincare. Through years of trial and error, extensive sampling of cult favorite classics from all corners of the world, at-home DIY alternatives, the expertise of dermatologists, and, finally, hours of research, I have decided to share the precious information I’ve been hoarding.
TL;DR: I did the legwork for you and made an alphabetized list of ingredients commonly found in skincare products so you can make better and more informed choices when it comes to your skin!
Below you will find a guide to everything from salicylic acid to snail mucus, backed up research from people who actually know what they’re doing. I’ve sorted this into three categories: the stuff you want to use on your face, the stuff you want to avoid at all costs, and the stuff that doesn't do anything at all. Enjoy.
The Good Stuff:
AHAs and BHAs: AHAs and BHAs are Alpha hydroxy acids and Beta hydroxy acids, respectively. AHAs are acids such as lactic or glycolic (mentioned below) while BHAs are stronger acids such as salicylic. The main differences between the two types of acids is that AHAs are water soluble, while BHAs are oil soluble. This essentially means that BHAs can penetrate deeper into the skin and dissolve the oil and sebum produced by your skin. However, this also means that BHAs are far harsher on the skin and should probably be avoided by those who have sensitive skin or are prone to redness. ** AHAs and BHAs should never be mixed or used with Vitamin C or Retinol!
Ceramides: Ceramides are lipids (fats) that are also naturally occurring on the surface of our skin. They form a protective layer over the top of our skin and are over 50% of its chemical composition. Ceramide creams are best for dry or combination skin or as a winter moisturizer as they are stronger and oftentimes cream-based.
Cica: Cica is the shortened name for Centella Asiatica. A leafy plant that is also sometimes called Tiger Grass, it is known as the plant that tigers will actually rub on wounds to help them heal faster. Cica is full of antioxidants, amino acids, beta-carotene, and fatty acids which all stimulate the skin’s natural production of collagen. It’s perfect for acne-prone and sensitive skin and can reduce redness.
Collagen: Speaking of collagen, it is the main protein structure in our skin. About a third of the body’s proteins are collagen. It is responsible for the elasticity of our skin and promotes the health of joints and muscles. Collagen can help repair sun damage, reduce the appearance of stretch marks, and restore elasticity. If you’re getting excited, unfortunately, collagen is too large of a molecule to pass through the dermis (the top layer of the skin), so it is mostly useless for topical application. Some rare exceptions are marine micro collagen derivatives, but those are rather hard to find and are often expensive. Collagen is also rather difficult for the body to absorb if you ingest it. Though collagen supplements have become popular over the years, there is no consensus within the scientific community as to whether or not they actually do anything. Some dieticians have also expressed safety concerns about the origins of the collagen sold by some of the most popular brands, specifically as it pertains to the content of trace metals. The bottom line is that if you’re interested in taking collagen as a supplement, do your research carefully and decide for yourself.
Glycolic Acid: A chemical exfoliator, glycolic acid belongs in the AHA family and is a derivative of sugar cane. It’s one of the most commonly used exfoliation ingredients by dermatologists. It has also been shown to be beneficial for acne prone skin since it dislodges dead skin cells and reduces the chances of clogged pores. It’s also a small enough molecule that it can actually extract oils from the skin and hair follicles. More importantly, it exfoliates evenly, meaning that it functions as a re-texturizer. In other words, it makes your skin smoother by removing uneven layers of dead skin cells, discoloration or pigment buildup, and helps your skin look more luminous. Because of this, it also helps your other skincare products absorb better into your skin and makes for a great priming step before the rest of your skincare regimen. In general, glycolic acid can be found in many concentrations and is safe to use at home, but milder concentrations are gentler on the skin. In any case, glycolic acid should not be used too often because it temporarily increases your skin’s sensitivity to sunlight, which could cause sunburns more easily than normal. Although you should already always be using sunscreen, definitely make sure to protect your face after a chemical peel. **Do not use in combination with salicylic acid.
Hyaluronic Acid: Everyone and their mother should have a little thing of this miracle solution. Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a naturally occurring compound that holds up to a thousand times its weight in water. Our bodies naturally produce this to keep our skin hydrated, but the amount produced decreases with age. You’ll find HA in a lot of products marked “anti-aging” but in reality it’s a super lightweight watery formula that can be paired with just about any other form of acid, peel, moisturizer, and serum. Hyaluronic acid is great for all skin types because it will not leave a residue or make your skin oily and is great to use as a nourishing serum. You can find it either in its isolated form or as an ingredient in many moisturizers and facial creams.
Lactic Acid: Lactic acid is also known as a form of chemical peel. Lactic acid is a gentler version of similar exfoliators such as glycolic acid. This is because it is a larger molecule, therefore it does most of its work on the surface of the skin rather than within it. This is great news for everyone that has sensitive skin or is conscious about the pH levels of their skin. Some of its beneficial properties is that it kills acne-causing bacteria and increases cell-turnover rate. In addition, it provides many of the same resurfacing benefits that its stronger counterparts do.
Niacinamide: Niacinamide is basically vitamin B3, an essential vitamin that is a true miracle-worker for the skin. Niacinamide protects the skin against environmental stressors as well as minimizes pores and improves the surface of your skin. Niacinamide works by providing skin cells with the necessary chemical building blocks to produce the stuff that actually fixes your skin. It helps create a stronger surface for your skin and has been shown to help with rosacea and irritation, prevent damage that could lead to cancer, and fix uneven pigmentation. Another useful thing about niacinamide is that it is entirely compatible with nearly any other skin treatment, including AHAs, BHAs, Vitamin C, and Hyaluronic acid.
Retinol/Retinoids: Retinol is a compound that boosts the skin’s collagen production. Retinol is the active ingredient used in many wrinkle-reducing and anti-aging products. Retinoids are the prescription version of retinol. While retinol is used in many skincare products, retinoids are much stronger and can therefore only be prescribed. Retinol is a derivative of Vitamin A and acts by affecting gene expression, smoothing out the skin, and boosting collagen production. It has become the gold standard in the skincare industry. Before you immediately go to purchase a retinol cream though, you should know that it can cause redness and irritation, especially on sensitive skin. Retinol works by introducing Vitamin A to your skin, which initially cases dry skin and irritation. However, after a while the skin becomes accustomed to the ingredient and it starts working its magic. It’s best applied to completely dry skin because its usage on damp skin can increase the potential of irritation. One thing is for sure, if you are interested in using retinol products, you should carefully research which products would work best for you and not be discouraged by what appears to be an initial setback.
Salicylic Acid: This ingredient is often key in products especially formulated for acne-prone skin. It’s oil-dissolving properties are great for treating breakouts and exfoliating the skin, which reduces the chances of acne re-forming. However, it should be noted that this ingredient can often be overused, leading to excessive dryness and irritation. You should always follow up a salicylic acid treatment with a hydrating and soothing treatment to ensure that your skin is properly moisturized. If possible, it's better to use salicylic acid as a spot treatment rather than a full-face treatment because it can irritate the skin around your mouth and eyes. **Do not use in combination with glycolic acid.
Squalane: Squalane is a hydrogenated oil that helps moisturize the skin. It is similar to the sebum that our skin naturally produces and is therefore best suited for those with dry skin, as it can be overwhelming for other skin types. It used to be derived from shark liver, but now is more commonly derived from olive oil. Although it is more commonly popping up as an ingredient in many skincare products, the research is still inconclusive as to whether or not it actually helps. While it certainly won’t harm you, there haven’t been any studies that can conclusively claim that squalane is uniquely good for your skin.
The Bad Stuff:
Alcohols: Or stripping agents of any kind. Alcohols have a lower boiling point than water, meaning that they evaporate faster. When alcohols evaporate, they strip your skin of moisture, which can cause irritation, dryness, and redness. Alcohols in skincare products demonstrate a carelessness in the development of the product and can often indicate that the company has cut corners in other ways as well. Thus, they are often found in lower quality skincare products. Read ingredients labels carefully.
Aluminum: Some of you may already have heard the spiel about aluminum in deodorants, but you should also be extremely weary about it popping up in your skincare as well. Aluminum is a toxic metal that can disrupt the functioning of our endocrine system. While some companies maintain that aluminum compounds are safe to use and are not linked to health issues, there has been a large amount of studies pointing to confusing or inconclusive results. While aluminum compounds may be safe to use in some minimal percentages, the science still isn’t quite clear on it and I would just try to steer clear of this kind of an unknown. Plus, putting industrial metals on your skin really just doesn’t sound appealing or good for you.
Formaldehyde and formaldehyde releasers: The name itself should be enough to deter anyone looking at the label of a skincare product (8th grade dissection lab, anyone?) but in case it is not immediately clear why these are a hazard, they have been linked to a series of health issues. Formaldehyde and formaldehyde releasers are known carcinogens and can cause allergies, headaches, and loss of sleep. While the ingredient itself has been, for the most part, excluded from skincare, it can still be found in eyelash glue, nail polish, and hair straightening products. Formaldehyde releasers are ingredients that form formaldehyde over the course of their shelf-life, still a grim prospect. These are often listed as DMDM hydantoin, diazolidinyl urea, imidazolidinyl urea, bronopol, or quaternium-15.
Mineral Oils: Although this ingredient also has a variety of people on both sides of the aisle, it doesn’t seem especially promising that the World Health Organization has listed this as a category 3 carcinogen (not enough evidence to consider it safe or unsafe). Unrefined versions of this product are properly considered a carcinogen by the WHO. The mineral oils in your skincare products are cosmetic grade, but still can have a variety of other unwanted effects. Other than the fact that mineral oils are a derivative of petroleum (ick!) they can also be somewhat pore-clogging. While mineral oils themselves have been proven to not be especially comedogenic (fancy term for pore-clogging), they have been found to potentially make other products that they are used with comedogenic. Mineral oils work by creating a plastic-like coating on the surface of your skin, this can smooth the way your skin looks, but it also traps any ingredients used with the mineral oil underneath it, potentially leading them to clog pores and cause outbreaks.
Parabens: Sometimes listed as either methyl, ethyl, propyl, or butyl. They have been traced back to causing disruptions or hormone imbalance. These are preservatives that help extend the shelf-life of many products. While we’re on the topic of shelf-life, a quick refresher on how long you should keep your products; the container should be labeled with a small image of a jar with a number drawn inside of it; this number indicates the total number of months that you can store and use your product for. If there is no such label on your product, most skincare products can be kept for an average of 2 years. However, if you notice that your product has separated or the texture or color has changed, throw it out immediately.
Polyethylene Glycol (PEGs): PEGs are often used as a chemical thickener in creams and cream-based products. They are often listed as “propylene glycol” or “butylene glycol” and are derivatives of petroleum. They work by altering the melting point of the product and can be irritating on the skin. Additionally, they can lower your skin’s natural moisture levels. These can often be found in cleansers.
The Okay-ish and/or Useless Stuff:
Fermented Ingredients: This is a trend that originated in South Korea and now fermented ingredients can be found in many skincare products around the world. The science behind fermented ingredients points to the fact that they hold a significantly higher amount of antioxidants than other ingredients (think grape juice vs wine). However, research about the benefits is inconclusive. While it doesn’t seem to be harmful, the jury is still out as to whether or not these ingredients are actually helpful or do anything for your skin.
Fragrance: Fragrances can sometimes be irritants for those with sensitive skin. If the brand is certified natural or organic or whatever FDA-approved blanket term is currently in vogue, you’re probably fine. However, if it is not, you should be cautious because companies may often use the term “fragrance” to hide a bunch of other ingredients. When companies list fragrance as an ingredient they do not need to disclose what went into the fragrance. Specifically, this could be a cover up for phthalates, which is an ingredient commonly left out of ingredient labels on fragrance oils. You should also note that while this is a chemical banned from skincare products in the EU, it is still prevalent in many US products. Some companies that have announced they will no longer use phthalates are L’Oreal, Revlon, Johnson & Johnson, Unilever, and Proctor & Gamble.
Vitamin C: While many skincare companies are turning to Vitamin C as a trending brightening ingredient in serums, Vitamin C poses its own unique benefits and drawbacks. The benefits are that it prevents oxidation. In other words, it protects the surface of our skin from pollution, environmental stressors, and other free-radicals like smoke and smog. However, Vitamin C is really tricky because it cannot be used in combination with other acids (AHAs or BHAs) and cannot be used with retinol. In serum form, Vitamin C is an acid that can be irritating, especially when used with other skincare products. On top of that, Vitamin C is also incredibly unstable. The formula itself is susceptible to rapid deterioration and spoilage when it comes in contact with sunlight and oxygen, leading many brands to include a ton of additional stabilizers into their formulation. Ultimately, while Vitamin C has been shown to increase the skin’s radiance, it seems to be far more difficult to use than it is worth, especially considering the list of other skincare ingredients that you would need to avoid in order to use it.
Precious/unusual/novelty ingredients: Anything containing pearl dust, 24k gold, CBD oil, snail mucin, bee venom, charcoal (yes, I know the cleansers are popular), fish enzymes, or any similarly strange sounding ingredient is, I’m sorry to break it to you, largely useless. Most often, these ingredients are formed of far too large molecules that cannot effectively pass through the dermis, let alone the lipid layer. Consumers are simply charged a premium on having unusual ingredients in their facial creams and toners with no results. You should stop spending your money on these because they are not only ineffective, but could also be reducing the effectiveness of other products you use by blocking your pores with inactive ingredients. Also while we’re on this topic, spending more on skincare does not necessitate that it will be better or more effective than drugstore or lower-price alternatives. The popularity of a trending product is oftentimes a result of a successful marketing team and colorful packaging. It doesn’t matter how many times a product pops up on your Instagram feed if it doesn’t have the active and nourishing ingredients that our skin actually needs (I’m looking at you Glossier). While higher priced skincare products can sometimes more readily guarantee that their ingredients are natural and are ethically sourced, you should not be paying a premium for jars or bottles of water mixed with perfume, thickening chemicals, and meaningless ingredients.
