Raf Simons at Prada
Prada has officially announced that designer Raf Simons will be joining the fashion house in July, working alongside Miuccia Prada as co-creative director.
Before uncovering what Simons’ revolutionary hire stands to represent for the Italian label, let us dive into some historical background, to better understand the roots of this alliance:
The House of Prada
Founded in 1913 by brothers Mario and Martino– Fratelli Prada – the company started off selling animal goods, steamer trunks, and handbags in Milan, Italy. During early years, Mario believed that women should not partake in business operations, preventing female family members from entering his company. It wasn’t until years later, when he lost interest in the business, that his daughter Luisa took over, eventually passing the helm onto her own daughter, Miuccia, in 1978.
Signature Nylon Backpack (Via)
Under Miuccia’s direction, the Italian fashion house saw the birth of its signature nylon fabric, initially implementing it on travel goods, like backpacks. It took time for the products to gain traction, where at this point they were being sold mostly in upscale department stores and boutiques around the world. By 1983, Prada had only opened two flagship stores, both in its native city…
Miuccia Prada (Via)
Right before the turn of the decade, Miuccia pivoted into women’s ready-to-wear, launching the iconic narrow belt, while still pushing forward with the original nylon pieces. The 80s became the 90s, and the label saw a series of events that positioned it at the cusp of the luxury fashion industry: In 1992, Miuccia established Prada’s subsidiary Miu Miu, named after her own nickname. The men’s ready-ot-wear collections were launched in the mid-90s, with overall sales skyrocketing to over USD $210 million by 1994. In 1996, Prada was operating in over 40 hubs worldwide, with the opening of its 18,000 squared ft boutique in Manhattan, the biggest at the time. To culminate a decade of success, the house purchased majority stake in New York City based Helmut Lang in 1999, a brand valuated at US $100 million.
Fast forward to the present, and Prada has made a series of acquisitions which have positioned the house at the top of the luxury goods market, notoriously after their alliance with industry titan LVMH (Click here to find out more about the group’s recent acquisition of Tiffany & Co).
“Prada's originality made it one of the most influential fashion houses, and the brand became a premium status symbol in the 1990s.” (Via)
Naomi Campbell for Prada, 1990 Campaign (Via)
Prada has always stood as an industry leader, dictating the present and future of fashion. In the aims of re-channelling the brand’s creative essence, star designer Raf Simmons was appointed co-creative director in February 2020.
Raf Simons
Raf Simons (Via)
Belgian-born designer Raf Simons is not new-comer when it comes to working at a high-end fashion house. He served as creative director for Jil Sander between 2005 and 2012, only to join Christian Dior for the next three years. In 2015, Simons moved to Calvin Klein, standing behind the roaring success of its recent campaigns, up until 2018. An innovator and visionary, the designer also collaborated with other big labels to produce exclusive limited-edition pieces in between gigs, such as Adidas and Eastpak.
Simons is well acclaimed for his incredible talent when it comes to creativity, constantly pushing the fashion industry in new directions. In an interview with GQ, he reinforced this belief, noting how:
"Miuccia and I had a conversation about creativity in today’s fashion system. And it brought me to open dialogue with many designers, not just Mrs Prada. We have to re-look at how creativity can evolve in today’s fashion system.” (GQ)
Raf x Prada
The hire has brought great excitement to the fashion community, with Simons’ reputation propelling expectations over the roof. Much like Virgil Abloh at Louis Vuitton, the Belgian designer is anticipated to bring a breath of fresh air to the Italian house, appealing to a new generation of consumers and their constant craving for ‘the next big thing’.
“In particular, graphic gear — including collaborations with artists like Sterling Ruby and Peter Saville — oversized layers and adidas sneakers have drawn in celebrities from A$AP Rocky to Kanye West, cementing Simons’ sphere of influence. Simons’ earnest approach to design and statement pieces appeal to consumers familiar with streetwear’s unspoken “cool,” a perceived authenticity that grants covetable status to a label.” (Hypebeast)
In a statement issued right after the announcement, Prada asserted that "as times change, so should creativity – the synergy of this partnership is far-reaching," (Dezeen). Miuccia and Simons are due to launch their first collaborative series in September of this year, revealing their innovative approaches to the changes of tomorrow. In an industry where houses can go from bust to billions and vice versa overnight, it will be interesting to see the product of their partnership, and how fashionistas around the world receive it. After all, fashion is an unpredictable business, under the demanding judgement of emerging rising Gen Z.
Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons (Via)
